oregonloyale

Looks like we have a split descision on the matter. Im gonna do it like this......... 1st oil change - goes to dino oil using Dello 15w40 (has alot of good detergents to help clean it out) 2nd change - if no leaks or burning , change to full synthetic Mobil1 5w30 extended service.

I cant wait to get it into the garage tonight and give it the ole 101 point isnspection. If there is any craziness to show ill take pics and post em. Gonna inspect the T-belt right off the bat!

Grossgary - good point on just changing the oil for standard oil for the 1st change. I think I will do just that and then i can gauge the wear on the rings for blowby and what not. The rest of the fluids will be changed to a full syn though.

Thats exactly what i was thinking.

Is this because of the thinner oil? I want to use Penzoil syncromesh in the tranny. Is gl4 gl5 compliant. Or even Redline MT90.

I did the search already and just didnt get the info i was looking for. I have a 92 legacy AWD , 5 spd. Has 229k miles on all original drivetrain . I just purchased it and would like to convert it to full synthetic fluids . I.E. oil , gear oil, frt and rear diff, etc. Anybody have any ill effects from doing this on there higher mileage subies? Ive done this conversion on older water cooled VW's with no ill effects . Maybe alittle more leakage in some instances but overall I have had no ill effects in most cases.

To the best of her memory , they have not been done. That was the 1st thing i asked her. Good thing its not a interferent motor , eh? Im gonna do it VERY soon . Once I celan out the garage and it stops snowing here in the Oregon valley.

Its been awhile since Ive been here but I recently bought a 92 ,1 owner legacy for $500. Its a solid 5 spd ,AWD ,EJ22E motor and clean body and paint. Has 229k miles and , heres the catch ................... Its pretty much still driving on ALL original parts. The only maintenance , besides oil changes , have been , new radiator, drive axles, plugs, and clutch. Everything else is original. Crazy and it starts and runs like a top. 1st thing Im gonna do to it is drain EVERY drop of fluid and replace it. Full tune up galore! Looking forward to driving it up to the Mt snow.

Thanx mr blackbart. Ill get back to you on that. I still need to investigate.

Thanx for the info. The fan works on all settings , just doesnt work all the time. Its like 2 out of 10 times itll work , aswell as the lights on the controls that indicate which setting it is in. i.e. - defrost , floor , a/c What fuse it connected to this part of the panel? And is there a relay for that ?

I have this 90 Subie Legacy LS sedan auto that has intermittent heater blower usage. Sometimes, but not most times it works fine. The little green lites lite up when I push the frt defrost button or any for that matter and turn the fan on . But most of the time nothin works. I have checked the fuses and they are good - at least Im pretty sure I checked the right fuses.

No worries , the car was bought to be sold. And it sold:)

I am a mechanic and have been working on VW for 7 years. This is my 4th subaru. I dowsed EVERY point that has a vacumn and nothing. The car was bought to be sold , so I actually never quit. Now I have a 93 Legacy LS sedan AWD that will be gone thru and then for sale.

Everything is tight. disconnected the MAF and started it and made no noise. I have since sold the vehicle. Thanx

Clean your idle air control valve = IAC If your subaru is equipped w/one. Im not familiar with the impreza. Good luck

nope , USPS Sorry , I meant $7.70

When sensors go bad it sends the ECU into limp mode where itll run but not very good.

I have already pulled the codes, and I know what they are. I have also removed the intake tube from the back of the MAf while it is running to isolate the sound and it is coming from the Maf tunnel. throwing a CEL is no big deal. Pull battery cable off for 30 minutes reconnect , dont touch anything , turn off once warm. ECU reset. Anyways. Thanx

Thanx , wasnt sure If I could do that? Ill try tonight.

I have pulled the air box apart and put it back together a few times to no avail. I wish I had a sound bite , it is considereably loud with the hood open in the garage. I even took the maf sensor off , left it connected electricaly and to the intake tube started the car and it still made the sound. i thought it was the actual airbox aswell , but after doing the above test ,now I think its the MAF.

90 Legacy 2.2l MT wagon I recently cleaned my MAF w/100% 0 residue electronics cleaner and also cleaned my IAC. Well put it all back together and the IAC was bad. Bad magneto = idle at 1500- 2000 rpm and wouldnt drop. Magneto wasnt dropping the plunger down. I replced the IAC with a good one and now my idle is great. Problem is , now I have a wierd kinda loud trumpet hum/howl sound coming from my MAF area? I pulled it all apart and I have no restrictions, no vacumn leaks and the car drives great. just this weird sound that goes away as the rpms increase. Could this be my MAF? I have a check engine light on and one of the codes is for the MAf , thats why I cleaned it to begin with. I have used this cleaner before on countless other MAF's , so I know its safe. Help!

Stumpy, thanx for your help. Ill let ya know here if it works. Just so yall know , stumpy sold it to me for $25 + $6 via flat rate USPS box. Flat rate boxes ship ANYWHERE at ANY wieght for flat rate. USPS has 3-4 different size boxes that have different flat rates.

doesnt your catr have a Tach? if so thatll tell ya how high the idle rpms are. I doubt you have a head gasket problem. Any white smoke out the tail pipe? Is it consuming coolant? is there white goo under the oil cap? If no , then no head gasket issues.

PM replied . thanx all. need one ASAP

sounds like a vacumn leak or vacumn related issue. Get out the can o starting fluid and start sprayin when the engine is running. If the idle dips or surges whelie your hosing vac lines. Bingo, replace it. Thats where Id start anyways.