oregonloyale

I still need one ?!?!:boohoo:

Yeah , Im gonna take it back to AAMCO anyways and have them at least replace the fluid . Captainehh - Yes the car had been driven to the gas station and that is where I checked the fluid . It was also a level place and the level of the fluid on the dipstick was perfect. It was the actual color of the fluid I was concerned about , especially being as there is ONLY 4k on the transmission.The Warranty is 12mths 12k miles.

I have found with common sense , tools , time , alittle money , and the desire and love to work on cars , anything is possible for the at home mechanic! I have worked on my 90 loyale, 91 legacy , 97 outback , and now 93 legacy that there really isnt anything on a sube I cant work on and I live in a single garage townhouse. :boohoo: I know this doesnt answer your question but maybe itll make you feel better about your mech ability? As far as oil leak , maybe its just the gaskets from being 110k on em ? All cars tend to leak alittle oil if they got some miles on em. If you can , pull some of the spark plugs and take a look at the condition of the plug. This will give you an idea of the engine condition.

I have been experiencing some intermittent problems with my legacy AWD tranny. It was recently rebuilt by AAMC 4k miles ago and the other day the wife said she was @ a stop and when she tried to go forward the car didnt go and then ...... it did. Also it will sometimes down shift hard into st when coming to a stop . I pulled the dipstick and the fluid level is good , but the color of the fluid wasnt very red like Im used to seeing, it was kinda clearish with a ting of red. Does Sube use a different trans fluid than other cars ? And is the fluid a different color ?

Thats the one !

I dont know off the top of my head , Ill find out when I get home . I do know its a 93 legacy wagon AT AWD . How much you want for one ?

Its the valve next to the throttle body , has 3 hoses going into it and 1 larger electrical plug in the top . It controls the amount of air going into the throttle body at idle. It is also noticable as it has a magnet in it wich is what allows the body of the valve to open and close . check your haynes manual for a pic and better description. If you have one let me know, thanx.

Alright I need a IAC valve for my 93 Legacy , whos got one ?

Well my issue has to be my IAC valve as I disconnected the electrical part of my AC, black wire at top of AC compressor , and the car still stalled. Also after warming the car up to normal op temp. then turning it off , and then removing the IAc to check the condition . The Valve was half open. Haynes says this indicates faulty IAC. I cleaned the IAC with brake cleaner , reinstalled and problem still persist. BAD IAC, DAMNIT, and its christmas time !:boohoo:

I have been running Max life 10w40 in my 89 Chevy 2500 for about 3 years now. I CAN say that this oil has been the best stuff for it! It is my old trusty work horse and of course it burns alittle oil , but with regular oils I would burn thru it at about 1 quart a month . With the maxlife I have cut that in half and petersons 4 wheel drive and 4x4 magazine all did revues on it when it 1st came out and gave it high marks . I am going to chnage over to Castrol High mileage formula, the equivalent of maxlife , as I have been running regular castrol religiously in my VW , and I want to run it in all my cars. My subaru , VW an Chevy truck.

Alright I know this is a beaten topic , but maybe if we do this thread right someone in the future will be able to pull it up on a (search) and find all the answers to there questions. What brand and wieght of gear oil (front and rear diff) is everyone using? Let us know what model , year , area of the country your from and either MT or AT. Also give your results with the gear oil you are using. Thanx Jason

does the AC clutch run when the defrost/heat or defrost mode is on ?

I bought my 93 legacy AWD auto from some folks that had a new AAMCO tranny dropped in about 3k miles ago. Im wondering If when they remove the tranny for rebuild does the front diff come out w/it or does it remain in the car. Im just wondering casue I dont want to change the front diff fluid if it has already been done ?

Alright back to my dilema...... I did the tests according to the haynes manual and I am recieving voltage at the terminals with the key in the on position = check And I started the car and allowed it to warm up to normal operating temp and then turned off car abd removed the IAC. haynes is incorrect in to things... 1 = there are 2 coolant hoses to remove not 1 2 = there are 4 bolts to remove the IAC body not 2 Anyways the manual said that after warm up and removal of the body the flap should be fully closed, not partially , well mine was half closed or open , however you look at it. I removed the magnetic/electrical part and marked it and then cleaned the IAC body w/brake cleaner. I then put it back together and ligned up the marks . When i lined up the marks it held the flap at half open again. I rotated the IAC one direction and this almost fully closed the flap. reinstalled the IAC and......... car still idles at correct rpms , around 800 but the car will dies upon activation of the heat/defrost switch or defrost switch but only sometimes , around 1 out of 5 times. sometimes I can hear wait sounds like a switch clicking on and or off from under the hood when I am in the car and the defrost/heat or defrost switch is actuated. I am just going to live with the inconsistencies of the auto for now as i have found the the legacy's are tempermental vehicles and so stuffed full of switches and selenoids , that it is almost impossible to ever have a 100% functioning ride. Dont get me wrong I love my Sube!

lets see pics of your after market rims on legacy wagons.

Now the wife says it is idleing low and almost stalling during normal operation.I bet its the IAC getting gummed up . I will not mess with the throttle stop screw, but I am going to do the old brake cleaner in the IAC techniqe this weekend.' Ill post the outcome of this on monday.

4x100 , etc ?

wow , what a thread of info and opinion I have started . Lets keep em coming and please give some photos of your custom work. Oh yeah what is the max depth that will fit in the door?

I want to know what speaker sizes fit in the front doors and rear speaker towers in a 93 legacy wagon and if you have some after market custom set ups going lets see some pics.

I forgot to mention its a auto tranny., if that matters. It only happens at an idle and very erratically , amybe 1 out of 3 times. And only with the defrost or the heat/defrost button engaged. It doesnt do it on any other climate setting. I do not know if it does it on A/C setting as I havent tested that one yet. It seems to idle at the normal rpms when 600-800 during normal idle and when you turn on the defrost it idles at 800-1000 for a little bit maybe 5-15 seconds then stalls.

I recently bought a 93 legacy wagon AWD from some folks for $2999 here in oregon and when I was test driving it everything was great (140k on odometer). 1 day after buying it wife is sitting @ stop loght and it just dies. Today I am driving it , stop at a light , turn on defrost/heat setting and notice the tach bounce alittle low. I then push the defrost button and it just dies! Here is a list of things that have been replaced on the car in the last 2years and 30k miles.... 109k = new starter 110k = new rear brakes 120k = new H2O pump and t -belts and pulleys 126k = new frt CV's 136k = new AAMCO trans. 140K = new alternator also new fuel filter , sprk plugs , spark wires and air filter. Could this stalling problem be that the alternator belt is to tight and or the clutch on the AC is binding when it engages in defrost mode or is it a problem with the IAC? :boohoo:

Can you get me the EGR selenoid that you got for $60 part#14774AA101 ? I would be eternally grateful. Jason:brow:

Excellent explenation, thank you. What I ahve found is that when testing my pcs selenoid the meter does not move , this means bad selenoid , correct? And when I test the EGR selenoid the meter goes all the way up to 0 , this means an open circuit , which means it is bad , correct ? More of your education would be grateful, thank you. Jason:brow:

I am new to using an ohmeter, could be more elaborate?:cornfuzz:

So does this mean you could use the outer cv boot from a 2wd on a 4wd and vice versa?