oregonloyale

your choice , can of additive over here in the NW is only $3-$4 and I only have to run 1 or 2 tanks and then done. More cost effective and more of a remedy .

As far as hesitation is concerned. Yesterday on my VW club website one of our members who is the lead tech at a VW dealership issued a statement saying that they have been getting ALOT of VW in the shop with hesitation and fuel economy loss and just plain poor driveability! They have chalked it up to the poor fuel we are getting at the pumps as the feds have been issueing fuel from the reserve tanks which have less additives thus we are getting alittle more carbon build up , quicker in our cars.. The fix...... They have fouind that when you fill up to add a GOOD fuel additive to the gas tank and do that for at least 2 tanks then every 3-5 tanks. This has worked w/ great success. Hope that helps.

Back of the bottle says good for all yellow metals = copper

You dont need the premium fuel. Just use what the Mnau. specs require otherwise your wasting money. As far as hesitation is concerned. Yesterday on my VW club website one of our members who is the lead tech at a VW dealership issued a statement saying that they have been getting ALOT of VW in the shop with hesitation and fuel economy loss and just plain poor driveability! They have chalked it up to the poor fuel we are getting at the pumps as the feds have been issueing fuel from the reserve tanks which have less additives thus we are getting alittle more carbon build up , quicker in our cars.. The fix...... They have fouind that when you fill up to add a GOOD fuel additive to the gas tank and do that for at least 2 tanks then every 3-5 tanks. This has worked w/ great success. Hope that helps.

I found the green t connector and 1 of the 2 parts of the black connector. Ive searched and pulled and cant find it? I guess Ill just try to pull the codes doing it with the green T connectors. But 1st Im gonna reset the ECU and see if the check engine light comes back. 90 Legacy L wagon 5spd 2.2L.

As far as pulling codes it looks Like all I need to do is connect the 2 black terminals together then turn the ign on. Its all starting to come back to me now.

PO of my once owned ISuzu Amigo w/210k 2.6l had used Dello 400 15w40 since it had 38k miles on the odom. From what I understand there is a high zinc or is it copper , level in those types of oil and it helps to really maintain the crank bearings. Ran like a champ , but the rig was to small for my family of 3 so I sold it. Im about to drop some Conoco 10w30 semi syn in my newly acquired 90 legacy 2.2l that has 250k on the odom. Doesnt have any piston slap and it isnt noisy so I figured I just go standard. Not to mention the stuff is relatively inexpensive so if it starts to get noisy I can just drain and try something else.

I bought straight 80w90 gear oil as its cheaper then exp. w/redline. If the standard gear oil doesnt work then Ill , if i still have it, try some redline. What about straight 80w90 Penzoil syncromesh ?

Thanx. Im gonna drain the trans and fill w/new fluid. probably gonna go with Redline 75w90nt , I think thats what its called. There is No midpipe cat anymore. The only cat is the header pipe. Are there also 2 O2 sensors, and where at? Probaly one in the header cat and one in the now gone mid pipe cat. I also gonna seafoam the car this week aswell.

I just bought a 90 legacy L wagon w/250k and seems to run strong. No real smell of gas in the oil cap.

So I have been gone for a loooonnnng time. I sold my subarus awhile ago as Im a VW freak , but I always come back . I buy and sell cars on the side of my normal job , only subarus,VW, and hondas. Anyways heres the new whips specs. 1990 subaru Legacy L wagon 2.2l 5 spd 250k miles new plug wires 70% tread life on tires. 2 or 2.5" magnaflow exhasut from the y pipe back K&N drop in swiss cheese under belly air box new clutch junkyard trans 2 year old maaco paint - metallic blue. all power options including ac converter in back for goodies and stuff. Clarion CD player Pioneer speakers Clean Clean Clean. Anyways heres the issues I wanna work out before I pass it on to another enthusiast. 3rd gear grind. Doesnt do it when trans is cold,only after everything has warmed up really good. loping idle after warm up. Tach sits around 500 rpm. Check engine light is on. If Im correct there are 2 cats on these vars stock , right? Well one of mine is gone since the PO did the exhaust job. Im gonna go to autozone tomorrow and haver them pull the code for the check engine light. As far as the 3rd gear grind. I have read thru the search engine about some flushing and additives and redline oil but since I dont wanna spend a bunch of money I gotta decide which route to go. Also PO did not change the trans fluid when doing the trans swap and new clutch. Siily owner. How many quarts do i need to buy to replace the trans fluid? Thanx Ill get pics soon and itll be FS for about 1k - $1200 when Im done gettin her all dialed in.

Actually I have and havent gotten a response to it yet.

I need to replace my front struts on my 93 legacy wagon AWD w/out air susp. and saw these 02 WRX springs and struts on ebay and was wondering if theyll fit ? Anybody know ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458480535&category=33590

No worries man , wasnt calln names just thought that oil being the life blood of the car and the fact that the garbage company ,in oregon ,will pick it up curbside if in a milk container isnt that much work , especially since one would want to make sure that something as easy as an oil change is done right. I was just raised this way and theres nothing wrong with that . Good luck on your endeavor and I hope all turns out well?

Not wanting to replacve your oil, just because it is dark outside just seems lazy. You must be well of financially to not want to change your own oil and wait for saturday to come around. I've always believed if you want something done right , do it yourself, at least then you know how much and how many. Oil is alot cheaper than a new engine and i would definitly let firestone know of the situation as if there are problems they should be held liable.

I recently started a thread asking who made the Walmart (supertech) brand oil. The response I got was that it was made by Penzoil/Quaker State and thought , all right Ill give it a shot. My 90 Legacy wagon 2.2l auto has 141k and never any problems or leaks and has been getting penzoil oil from the previous owners. I prefer Castrol as this what I have ran in all my small engines, especially VW's, my other hobby. I added the SuperTech Sythetic blend 10w30 to my car and wited for the next morning , as a cold start would give me a real view on the sythetic cold start advantage. Morning...... ICK! Car started just find but a little rough until the oil reached the cylinders , I didnt like that. Then car seemed to run a little noisyer (sp) than usual , no clanking or anything , jsut noisy. After about 50 miles of the Sythetic blend , I opted to remove it from my engine as fresh oil is cheaper than a new engine. Holy smokes when that oil came out is was almost the consistency of hot water , I didnt like that either. I then put Castrol GTX 10w30 in waited for the morning start. Beauty...... Normal start and operation. All in all , I think synthetics are fine for engines that are newer , especially the high grade oils, but STAY AWAY from the Supertech Sythetics, you get what you pay for and ............ oil is alot cheaper than an engine replacement or rebuild, just my 2cents.

I see walmart has a synthetic blend motor oil and I know its cheap crap , but I was wondering where and who makes it , and if anybody has used it ?

I noticed a total mileage (per tank) increase from 250 miles to 275 miles and this is mostly city driving in my AWD. I live in Oregon so I dont know what the AKI's are or mean just a laymans revue.

it will take around 2 - 3 tanks before you see a major change in fuel mileage. When I took the cylinders out of my VW Bug after using chevron they were sooooooooooo clean.

I have found NO difference in performance or mileage when using higher octane gas in my 93 legacy wagon. I have however noticed a HUGE difference in mileage and performance while using ONLY chevron gas , about a 5 mile increase in mileage compared to all the other fuels out there.

holy profanity ! Well theres a design flaw in my opinion! Oh well gonna have to cough up the dough after christmas, damn! thanx.

My front struts are leaking like a big DOG! You can here the car riding on the springs when your driving down the road , Yeck! Not surprising seeing as they have 141K on em. I need to know if and where I can get new cartridges or if I have to buy the whole darn assembly?

Just because they were off cars you drove doesnt really make them good IAC's. Do you have a haynes manual and are you able to test them by this? If they test good , I would love to get one as I really need one. Here are the #'s on the side of my valve....... 22650 AA032 A33-000 RIO 2514D Lemme know ,thanx.

I will try and find the #s tonight , but I do know that it is a 3 prong electrical. Do you know if the IAC's you have are good ? I do know how to test em if you dont. I can explain it to you , or if you have a haynes manual it explains it. Basically the flap on the valve should be closed when not installed in the car.

I live in Salem Oregon , NW. I bought the car about 2 weeks ago and it came with a rebuilt Tranny from AAMCO, I even have the reciept.