mikeshoup

So I just replaced a broken axle on the p/s of my wagon, and now the d/s has a torn boot. Assuming the shaft on my broken axle is fine, how can I rebuild it? Where can I get a new CV Joint? What tools do I need to take everything apart? I know I'll need a new boot, boot clamp, and a CV joint...

The symptoms you describe a very typical of a worn out vacuum modulator. The rubber diaphragm in it is broken allowing your engine to suck in ATF through it. Replacement of the modulator or the trans (with the 5spd D/R ) are the only solutions. Your transmission won't get hurt any more than it already is with that vacuum line gone, since the engine can't pull a vacuum on the modulator anyways.

I need another car like I need a hole in my head. I love XTs though... especially FT4WD 5spd ER27s...

Do NOT run a One Wire alternator... Run an internally regulated 3 wire alternator.

I'll see if I can make it whatever date is decided. I'll try and con my roommate into letting me take a couple pounds of elk burger.

I'll have to pass on the BBQ afterwards. I've got some family plans. I will still be at the meet though!

Exactly what mine did, and exactly why I went for a manual.

I wouldn't trust the Oil Pump to be run off of the cybrid power steering motor. If something happened to the electrical system, you would lose oil pressure. At least with the pump run off of the d/s cam belt, if it snaps and you lose oil pressure, the engine stops running. That and the cybrid power steering motors aren't exactly the most reliable... Why exactly do you want to go to a dry sump oil pump anyways? What would the advantage be over installing a much cheaper and easier to use factory oil pump?

Another question, how do I mount the 4WD Lever inside the car? Looking at cars in the junkyard, there's a hump on the tunnel where the bracket bolts to... I do not have this hump. Who has done this and mounted the arm?

I could depart like 5 minutes early and still be there on time. Hopefully this time I won't drive past the lot...

The 4WD lights up when the 4WD solenoid is powered. I can close the switch for the button on the shifter, it doesn't turn on. I then put a jumper wire across the solenoid's connector, and the light turned on, but the wire started to melt. I have a feeling, easiest would be to just tap into the dash's wiring harness (where is the main plug for it anyways?)

Here's my beauty:

The 88 FSM definitely shows a 1.5:1 low range for all non-Turbos. So somewhere the stopped using 1.2 on the non-Turbo. I *swore* my 86 FSM said 1.2:1 for the Sedan and Coupe.

Okay, so I figured out how to do the reverse lights. I have to run a couple wires from the inhibitor switch plug to the reverse light switch on the transmission. How do I wire up the 4WD Light? Has anyone done this? I could just ignore it. The gauge cluster doesn't have a LO light anyways.

My 86 FSM showed both the N/A sedans and the coupes having a 1.2:1 low range. Someone should double check that. The wagons definitely had the 1.5:1

MPFI was an option on GL-10s. I think one of the board members here even has one (Daeron maybe?). In 85, there was no SPFI model, instead they had an MPFI model. I've seen an 86 MPFI in the junkyard before, however, after 86 I think they did away with the MPFI non-Turbo except for the XT. (I don't have my 88 FSM, so I can't check).

His tires are marginally larger than stock. I run 185/80/13 on my EA81T wagon and it sounds like I get better gas mileage. (And this thing sucks for that!) Change: O2 Sensor Spark Plugs, wires, cap, rotor Air Filter See where that leads you. All of those can drop gas mileage.

There's no surprise that there's oil in the PCV. Remember what its for? To vent the crankcase gasses. There's a lot of oil vapor in the crankcase gasses that your engine burns. Sometimes there is so much vapor venting that it almost looks like steam (but it has a distinct aroma). Clean out all of your PCV hoses. Next, clean out the PCV valve/replace it with OEM ONLY. If anything is clogged it forces the crankcase gasses to vent at a higher pressure, increasing chance of you having oil condensation. White smoke isn't caused by oil. Oil smoke is usually a greyish smoke, almost blue sometimes. Sounds like to me your white smoke is really grey smoke.

It should be noted that all of the heads have the same combustion chamber. Therefore, changing heads does not change CR. Its the pistons in the block determining CR.

All EAs have single port exhausts. If your car has a carb or SPFI on it, it will have single port intakes If you car has MPFI or MPFI TURBO, it will have dual port intakes. If it has MPFI, it will be obvious, there will be four injectors, one in each of the intake runners.

How old are the plugs, wires, cap and rotor? My silver 88 wagon had a miss on it, much like you are describing. Replaced the above, and it worked wonders.

I didn't even notice that! Thanks carfreak! That could very well turn ugly.

130whp might not be possible reliably without lots of money. For 130hp, you're looking at about 180chp, when stock is 115. The EDM/JDM XTs make 136chp. Pick two: Reliability Performance Cost

ShawnW suggested I grab a clutch return spring from a DL since I don't have a hill holder. I couldn't find a DL without a hill holder, but the accelerator pedal has a nice spring on it, so I took the one off of the automatic's pedal box. Not even sure if its needed. I tried it without the spring, and clutch action was just fine. Its there though because I want it to be.

Duct tape FTW! Every clutch needs a large return spring