mikeshoup

So I did a couple things: I drained the ATF and re-filled it, making sure not to overfill it. The previous owner had also plumbed the breather for the front diff into a vacuum hose for some reason... I fixed that. It's not doing it any more.

That, and it has no other symptoms of a head gasket issue. Stays cool while driving, no oil/coolant mixture. I'm hoping it's something simple like a fluid change or some bizarro bad vacuum diaphragm. I just need it working enough to get it through emissions so I can get it plated.

Thanks for the replies. I'll check the vent tubes (I didn't know the 3at had any) and make sure the cooler on the radiator isn't clogged. Then I'll change the fluid. I don't think it's head gaskets or the motor overheating. No other indications of a problem with the motor. At least I hope the motor is solid. ETA: could it be the vacuum modulator? Is the a check valve on it? Or is it possible the boost is making its way through the modulator and adding pressure to the transmission? Probably a very stupid question.

My new to me EA81T wagon has the 3AT in it. When driving around town, the dipstick pops out of the tube about an inch and spews ATF all over the spare tire and brake booster. What could cause this?

Fit an EA81T? I'll know more in a week or two, but I may potentially be interested.

If it still looks that good, I'm very jealous. I miss my old EA81 Turbo wagon and have been trying to find another. They seem to be rarer than hen's teeth.

My mom's 99 Legacy's speedometer intermittently stops working. It has an automagic, about 115K miles. Did some searching, appears to a common problem with the speedometer head, couldn't find much more beyond that. Is there an easy way to test this to verify its the speedometer head? Any directions on pulling out the instrument cluster? Thanks a bunch.

Just get some plain old cheap 80W-90, or whatever the manual recommends. I've always used 80W-90 and never had problems.

Idler pulley is nothing. If everything else works fine, then its not a big problem at all.

If you're goal was to keep up with WRXes, you bought the wrong car. Should've got a WRX. You could put a newer engine and transmission in your car, that'll help, but its a lot of work and money. Easier solution, buy my 88 RX w/ EJ25 and AWD trans It'll keep up with stock WRXes in the mountains. (ask me how I know)

I did fix it. Turned out to be the flywheel bolts had worked them selves loose. Tightened 'em down with Loc-tite and got it straightened out... I think this car was parted by ShawnW though.

According to the 1984 FSM, the 2WD and 4WD distributors both have the same advance curve.

Find a FWD transmission out of early EJ soob (pre-97 I think). One from a Legacy or Impreza. Then, you can pull the rear diff and other junk in the back. Its not as hard as Gary is making it out to be, but I don't see the point.

Get the $100 one. I've owned a few 200K+ 5spds, and none of them really exhibited any problems.

It doesn't. Its off of direct manifold vacuum. Speaking of which.... I need to replace my check valve....

Those aren't the same as the dealer though. Last time I bought one at a dealer it was $5.99. Been a year or so since I owned an EA81 though and I stopped buying filters at the dealer. Aren't dealer filters Purolators or something?

Are you testing this on dry pavement? Are all your tires the same size with the same wear? Both of these will cause the car to "clunk" out of 4WD. Its nothing to worry about, just remember to use 4WD only in conditions where the tires can slip, and also make sure all four of your tires exhibit the same wear.

Clarify: Does the noise continue in neutral (IE: not in gear)? Not just when the clutch is in.

Having done both pulling motors and transmissions... Pull the transmission. Quicker, less chance of screwing something up. I of course borrowed a transmission jack when I did my transmission. Pulling the engine is only easier in that you don't have to lift the transmission. Overall, the transmission is really easier as there's less things to pull apart.

I question if we can call it a Loyale. There doesn't appear to be much Loyale left in it apart from the body... Put it on a Toyota frame with Toyota engine, transmission, etc, its like a Subota or Toyaru. I like Subota personally

Look for anything that says: EJ swap Tons of information regarding these swaps on here. The EJ22 being the most common and probably the easiest EJ swap. I personally like the Phase II EJ25, only cuz my RX is fast!

Sounds like a bad distributor...

Drop it onto its balls! You need it so low, you can barely fit a soda can under the rear diff

As you can see, none of us here are going to sell you a car now that we know your dirty little secret Man up, and get the damn thing out of the woods! Your car got there in the first place, there has to be something capable of pulling it out that can get back there too.

While you have the rad out, change the thermostat. Get an OEM one from a dealership.