mikeshoup

Don't put a FI pump on a carb. 45+ PSI vs 3-5 PSI. COMPLETELY different.

Get a coolant system pressure tester guys. It'll tell you for sure if there's a leak, and you can usually hear it hissing out of the leak when you pressurize it. Autozone will let you rent one.

Yup, air in the the coolant. Bleed it somehow. Jack the front end up in the air so the radiator cap is above the heater core, and wait for the car to warm up with the rad cap off. This will push all the air out.

I'm living on $160/mo for food and gas No way could I afford one of them sweet motors. Jeff came over, and he and I basically concluded its probably not a knock or something. Now it sounds more like a rattle, coming from the transmission tunnel area. He's dead set on it being the linkage... I don't think so, but I'm gonna play with it.

This is probably what's giving you the gas milieage. Once you go above about 55mph in our cars, the gas mileage starts to drop, past 75 it drops dramatically. The other stuff is good and all, but the slower speed helps the most.

Could be? I dunno. I used 225mm EA81 flywheel with EA81 flywheel bolts. I don't really wanna pull the transmission to check... Can I easily check through the timing hole somehow?

I'll take you up on that. Can't hurt to have spare parts.

Eh, probably not. I'm going to operate under the assumption its just a noisy lifter for now... I rely on my car too much to purposefully blow it up. I can't afford a replacement (car or engine) right now, so the longer I prolong the inevitable, the better.

Yeah... I'm gonna replace the oil pump, and see if that helps. Else, I'll drive it until it blows up.

I've noticed this for about the last week, and it just started getting bad today. My EA81 Turbo motor has a very faint nock at idle. As you rev it, it gets louder up to about 3K, where it gets loud and stays loud. If I let off of the gas completely, it stops. This doesn't seem like a typical lifter tap to me... or could it be? It does have hydro lifters. Should I fear the worst? I hope not.

The largest problem with MS on an EJ, is the stock crank/cam sensors aren't decoded in the ignition control (yet, there's actually some beta code floating around for it). You'd need to add a decoder wheel somewhere on the engine, or modify the existing wheels somehow.

Good plan eyesore!

Stick to FI. The system is hardly unreliable, and you probably have better throttle response and a more flat torque curve then a weber. Webers are great and all, but FI is probably better. The switch would be fairly easy. You'd need a carb intake manifold. Then remove all the wiring and sensors from the FI stuff. Oh yeah, Carbi Distributor would be needed too. Its "outlawed" because it isn't approved by the DOT. It is technically illegal to use it on streets anywhere in the US. That's neither here no there. It wouldn't be outlawed due to snappy response... Because it is. EA82 flywheels are extremely heavy.

I'm with Daeron. Cool to see a Subaru in an amateur video, but they completely missed the meaning of the song...

If its a carb, this should be the valve timing: Intake: 3 BTDC / 51 ABDC Exhaust: 47 BBDC / 7 ATDC If its SPFI: Intake: 10 BTDC / 54 ABDC Exhaust: 49 BBDC / 15 ATDC I don't have my EA82 FSMs anymore, so I can't tell you lift or anything else.

We should do a BBQ in like a month or so. I was thinking the weekend of May 12th or 13th. I don't want to host it, but if no one else wants to, I can at my place. Why? I'll be done with another semester, Keith's got job offers, Phil's graduating soon, Russ is leaving sometime, we're near the start of summer, and because BBQs are fun. So what you guys think? Also, when you leaving Russ?

This thread is worthless without pictures... I really hate some of the stupid acronyms people start to use.

+1 for not worth it.

Fuel system does matter, as well as year. Look under the hood, it should tell you on the emissions label what the timing should be at. Also, it should say somewhere in the owners manual if you have it. For a turbo, I believe its either 20 or 25 degrees.

I didn't do it, but my brother took my old 88 GL on a 1500 mile total trip through New Mexico and then back. He said it did wonderful. I'm about to take my 84 Turbo on a 750 mile round trip. Should be fun. She'll do just fine. I have faith in her.

+1 I'm thinking I might get a set of injectors and send them in to get cleaned. Don't want that happening on Elly.

So I figured out why my blinkers weren't blinking. Seems the flasher was filled up with water... leaking from the windshield. After changing to synthetic blinker fluid, the blinkers blink well. Anyways, how does one fix a leaky windshield? Sounds like its a remove windshield and replace gasket kinda thing... Do companies like diamond autoglass do this for a reasonable price?

Get the cable from the dealer, or find a junkyard one. Make sure you lube up the Hill Holder when you reinstall it. Or do as GD suggested, and find a large spring. I used a spring off of the gas pedal from my old pedal box... The 5spds without hill holders (usually the DLs) did have a large spring too.

You just get a hand reamer, and do it by hand. The pitch of the taper doesn't matter so much, as long as there is a taper. You also want the smaller diameter of the hole to match exactly the smaller diameter from the XT6 control arm. If it were me and I were doing a 5 lug on an EA82, I'd get the XT6 control arm. Some one over on XT6.net just rehashed a horror story where reaming out the control arm hole weakened the control arm. Owner hit a curb, and ripped the knuckle right off. Would rather not take chances, aye?

The regular EA82T pulleys don't have any timing marks. If the cam timing marks are off, the only solution I see is for you to pull the XT6 flywheel off and compare the marks to the EA82 flywheel, and mark some new ones.