SUBARU3

Here's some cheap rotors. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7995742564&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT All the other brake parts are pretty inexpensive too. As for the carb, you are running rich. The adjustment screw should be no further out than 2 or 2.5 turns from full in tight. Check float level. Tighten all screws on top of carb. The float does not need replaced. I've never had one that got heavy. If it did, you can adjust it up. IMHO, I'd simple get a replacement carb and then later rebuild yours. The rebuild kit is: CARB REBUILD KIT (BORG WARNER) 10434B These carbs are really easy to rebuild in an afternoon. Todd

I'm helping a friend with this issue. What 2.2 SOHC engines are the best and most simple to transplant into a 95 Impreza automatic? Do the automatic and manuals have a different bellhousing? Can one just take all the external stuff off any 2.2 and replace it with yours and it will work? What years 2.2 will "easily" work in a 95 Impreza? Thanks again guys! Todd

Well, back in my folks dealership, the term "thincase and fatcase" was used to describe the early and later version of the EA 71s (Thin referring to the external water jacket and a "thinner block") Now Paul.......go to your room!

The engine currently in your car is referred to as a thin case. It has a external water transfer and the old style water pump. The newer 1600s are called fatcases. The water trasfer between sides of the case, is internal and they use the later water pumps. ANY 1600/EA71 engine will work. The bell housing changeout is VERY easy. It's just 10 or so bolts ...period! It's not a modification. You need to do this to mount it properly in your car. Additionally, low mileage thin case motors are getting very rare. Feel free to PM me and we can exchange #s. I'd be glad to help you out. Todd

Thanks emily! I think the bolt actually is OK, even without the topping of JB. It torqued OK too. Time will tell!!! Todd

Actually, the bolt seemed secure even without the topping of JB weld. I will monitor VERY closely. The pulley that bolts into the water pump has only about a 1/2" of thread too. And no, I'm not a welder! I'll pay for a good job with that!!! Thanks all! Todd

Thanks for the feedback grossgary. I feel pretty comfortable with the depth of the the threads. IF HOWEVER, it fails, welding will be my 1st move. Thats what I was going to do, before I tapped it further down. Quick question.....could something like this be welded with the engine IN the car?? There is plenty of room, but what about fire/explosion hazard?? Todd

Well, the car is up and running again!! I was able to tap about 1/8 " more into the hole. That means that the stud I used is holding with much better that 1/2" of thread. (not quite 3/4" though) Since the bolt has no "pulling" tension. It feel pretty confident with it. I topped that broken area with JB weld, for some additional support. It's in pretty darn good! I LUCKED out this time!!!! I'm leaving the passenger side timing cover off for a while to monitor the situation. Thanks to all that helped me feel better about this and offered suggestions. You are all my Subaru family!! Todd

It's on the top of the engine flywheel cover/bellhouse. At the top rear, passenger side of the car. Todd

I have used a big screwdriver in a EA71 and EJ22 without any difficulty. Todd

Pics would help. Thanks, Todd

I have a 95 Impreza AWD with 80K and all is fine. Also a 78 wagon with a 3AT that is perfect! I think the key is a trans cooler. Cheap insurance, as heat kills trannies. Todd

Thanks scott......I will use that advise too in the plan!! I'm just worried about welding and the gasoline in the car! Todd

Yea, I kinda don't want to do any deeper drilling either. Too risky. As for getting a new pulley, because it would be permanent, I decoide to use a threaded rod. (see in my pic). That way I can place a nut on the end to take the pulley on /off. Strong locktite to be used too. Scottbaru, not sure what you mean by a plate?? Sounds like an interesting idea. The boss does not go into the pulley. It just sits against the boss. There is only one bolt for the pulley too. Yes, it could sit out a bit. It also appeared that the original timing belt was shredded on the side from the pulley being loose/misaligned. (I'm not opposed to more frequent timing belt changes.Just the belt is fairly easy!) I'm going to order that aluminum repair stuff and call some welders too. Do you all think it can be welded in the car? What about fuel in the engine? (That would be bad to blow it up!) Thanks Much !! Todd

Now Shawn.....go to your room!

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/index.htm What's everyone's opinion of this stuff? Matt suggested this. I watched the video and was impressed. Todd

No, the h2o pump is on the other side. I wish that was the case! Darn

I really thank everybody for the valuable input! Keep it coming!!!!!!!! It appears that welding in might be the best option. Where should I beging for this type of work? If I have to pull the engine......I'll just replace it then. I believe it can be welded in place. I have the radiator out and there is lot's of room. I had thought that I could tightly wrap wire around the threads and the remainder of the boss, then top of with JB weld. Like I said the threads are tight in the last 1/4 or so of the hole. Can I drill it deeper and thread more?? Man....I'm so depressed about this. Todd

No .... not all of it at least. It must have broke into 2 or 3 pieces when it broke. Strange!

There is no other damage to the engine. The car was running perfectly before pulled into the garage to do the belt. I would have never noticed this unless I decided to check all the pulleys. Thank heavens I did! The piece found in the timing belt cover was just a small piece. It looks like a piece from the damaged area, but not all of it. It's amazing it didn't get bounced around under the cover!! I can go and cut a piece from a salvage engine too. I just don't know anything about my welding options. Remember, the bolt is threading tight in the last 1/8-1/4" of the hole. Can the stud just be welded to the block?? And used in place of the bolt? Todd

Would it be a good thing to cut this piece off a junk engine and kinda shape it to weld on? What are my welding options? I think it can be done in the car, (lot's of room) Thanks everybody!! Todd

Actually , the car has not been wrecked. The questions mount! I put that stud in there. I was just trying various options. Trying to decide what to do is not easy in this case! Todd

Yep, the engine was running perfect, but I knew it was WAY overdue for the timing belt. So I figured a few hours and I'd be done! (Yea right!!) Oh there was a piece of aluminum in the timing belt cover too. I'm thinking of having aluminum welded in to area, drill and retap???? Maybe I could drill further into the block, but I don't know how far I can go Maybe I'll be parting a perfectly good 2.2 engine and getting a longblock.........gosh I hope not! Todd

OK.....I have a real problem. 2.2 Impreza 80K In doing the timing belt, I discover that a pulley was loose. I took it off to check it and discover this!!!! OMG!! Now what. I noticed the belt was wearing on the edge because of this too. What can be done?? welding? JB weld? The bolt catched the last part of the threads, a little less than 1/4", but I'm afraid to tighten to the recommended torque. (I doubt it will torque) This is a perfect engine, with no issues at all, BUT THIS STUPID BOLT! How could this have happened? Factory? This was the original timing belt too! Ideas? suggestions? Look at the pic and weep. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/uploads/144/PDC_0191.JPG Thanks everybody in advance! (I like my Gen 1s a WHOLE LOT BETTER NOW!! LOL Todd

300 on hydrocarbon?? That's a low standard to meet. In TX it's 453 or below. My 70's cars run 66-98, at idle and on the dyno respectively. I'd check all hoses and possibly replace all vac hoses. They are cheap and easy to do. Often they leak at the connection point from being dry and brittle. Go over the engine with a fine tooth comb: spark plugs car adjustment (lean, by turning adjuster screw inward/car may be running too rich.) check air filter, restricted air enriches mixture. change oil/filter (synthetic 20/50 till winter, then 10W30) I'd also run 100% synthetic oil. For some reason emission #s are decreased with this oil, verses regular oil. Home this helps. Oh Your car is 25 years old. In many states they are safety inspection only/no emissions. Check in your state for exemption options. Certainly they are not holding your BRAT to the same standards as a new car!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In TX, I'm exempt with my older ones...25 years and older. But the last year I had to do it, it was on a dyno and they ran VERY VERY clean. almost as clean as a 2000 model the tech said!! todd