JonOfScio
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Posts posted by JonOfScio
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Does anyone know anything else about these? Are they really that powerful and are they common in other countries? Are the parts compatible?
Rob
We don't get alot of the really cool cars here. The JDM twin turbo engines stock run 280bhp. But that's because of the old non-written rule that no cars should come out with more than 280hp. There's always rumors that this engine and that engine stock can handle this and that, like an EJ22T can handle 500hp, or a stock EJ20T can handle 500hp, or that the EJ257 (semi closed deck turbo 2.5L) can only handle 400hp internally... ect.
The thing to do would be to get a JDM twin turbo 2.2L. The 2.2L is the best engine for reliability every designed *from* subaru. (I'm not talking about TWE or Cobbs fully closed deck modified 2.5L engines) I would rather build the CRAP out of a 2.2L (money being no option) than a EJ257 merely for the fact that the 2.5L is semi-closed deck, and is also overbored. (the more you bore out, the less cylinder wall space you get... and the less reliable too)
So grab a JDM 2.2L twin turbo motor. Put on some VF34 turbos, new exhaust, some insane injectors, chip it up, cams, ect. and you'd be waaay able to get 400hp. Check out www.nasioc.com . they have posts all the time of people dynoing their STis and stuff. (500whp!)
yeah, it's possible to get 400hp. How much money do you have? And yeah, twin turbo EJ motors do exist.
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Josh: unless he drives an automatic. where the front dif is 75/90 and then ATF in the trans. But you're right, if he's got a manual...
I work in a lube shop. General rule of thumb is to always use the reccomended weights. in the case of older EA subies, i've heard of redline 75/140 doing miracles in worn out syncros... but, in our EJ awd subies, I'm not too sure. I don't think I would want to risk it. I say that as long as you've been up on your fluid changes and haven't extended the periods too long (as so therefor built up your varnish) put in some full synthetic 75/90.
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So, those who have kept up with Oddcomp and his EA82T wagon running Megasquirt (reffered to now as MS) and EDIS, this is my thread I'm pulling up on how I'm going to get it running on my legacy.
At first, the idea of getting fuel control was easy. MS. I have all the things it needs, a tps, cts, need an AIT, my injectors...ect. but to get spark?
Well, you could go the edis route. But that's alot more work than what I wanted to do. I wanted to be able to either just use existing sensors (cam or crank angle sensors) to get MSnS (Megasquirt 'n Spark.... spark addon like EDIS is an addon to MS) to run.
Well, the crank angle sensor won't work, too many signals per revolution. The cam sensor won't work, because at every 90 degrees is more than one signal output. If the cam had one signal per 90 degrees, it would work, but it doesn't. Look up the diagram in your haynes or chiltons.
Ok, solution. Hall effect sensor, peep hole in the timing belt cover, and longer studs with allen key heads for the timing belt sprocket on the cam. It turns one revolution with the cam, would send out the right events, and with longer studs, would allow to send signals properly. So there we have it... the one modification stopping us from putting both fuel and spark from MS on our EJ engine.
I soon hope to have enough saved up to purchase everything I will need to get it going. It'll be around $350 for everything. for all the MS stuff, the MSnS add on parts, the wiring, and the palm I want for in car management, associated cables, ect.
My first test engine will be an EJ18 outside of a car.
Thoughts, opinions?
btw - MS now supports up to two wideband O2 sensors... you can have one in each bank of a true dual exhaust... sounds good to me.
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Assuming that your EJ18 in the car (I assume is an impreza) is OBD I, you would most likely want to go grab an OBD I EJ22 (first gen legacy until '95) and if it is OBD II, you'd want the 95+ EJ22. The 95+ EJ22s are 135hp. And the impreza EJ22s around '99 are 142hp.
anyhow, what with the right OBD type, it would (as far as what I can remember from reading before...) just swap right in. AFAIK, all the sensors are the same. just a bigger displacement, different internals (but still forged), slightly better flowing heads, different cam specs, and bigger injectors.
Now, if the car's ECU has AIC, and the engine you're grabbing doesn't, you'll want to use the manifold from the EJ18... or I have one here I'll sell you from an EJ22 that has AIC. if for some reason you need to reuse your manifold, I could sell you my spare EJ22 injectors. (circa pre '95 legacy)
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I'm sitting here debating (debated, past tense) on whether or not to bring something... my check was a measly $160 short of my last paycheck... and even though all I have left is $20 for gas, it's my two buds moving away, so I guess now is a good time to spare some cash if I ever had to.
I'll bring something good... that's for sure.
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you would need to find a turbo crossmember from a turbo car... or else the up-pipe would not fit because of an area allowing access through there.
Also, an ecu swap is a wiring fiasco, some saying it takes 40 hours or more or solid work. bleh. not my thing. and you'll want of course a tranny capable of using up that much power without grenading, and a better fuel pump.
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notice a power difference when you drive your car hard when its 60 degrees outside and then when it's 100 degrees outside? Air expands at higher temperatures, and so when the coolant is heating your throttle body, it's heating the air intake temp of the charge coming in. lower the temp, the more condensed air is... colder air is always better, so long as it doesn't contain too much moisture... (why do you think intercoolers exist? lol)
The idea why it's there is not for emissions, but for cold weather people. Because it's supposed to "keep your throttle body from icing over" but the funny point is that if you live in a cold climate, the mere fact that you aren't driving your car, and it's stopped, and there's cold coolant in there is not going to stop your throttle body from icing over if it was going to without the coolant lines hooked up. Coolant in the TB is arbitrary to whether or not this would heppen... In my opinion, from talking to people who live in colder climates who have done this, (and yes, this is a fairly common thing to do with cars in general) is that it's only a restrictive device placed on engine performance. I can't understand why there should be any heating in that area anyhow.
And afterall, wouldn't having the maf sensor read the same temperature air that's going into the manifold be more accurate for fuel equations than if it were say 15 degrees hotter? And wouldn't you want your ECUs air intake temp sensor to match more closely the air coming in? (from what I understand, on the cars so equipped, it's before the TB)
btw - one person who had a turbo motor measured the difference. said the air intake charge changed about 15 degrees cooler. I'm not sure if it's the same or any different for us n/a guys, but, I know now I can touch my TB when it's completely warmed up and not have to worry about frying my hand! it used to be so hot I couldn't touch it for longer than a second.
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Oregon:
Only has emissions testing within portland and some suburbs...
so that's why I live in scio. so long as you don't abuse the decible limit, and don't pour out smoke out the back, police don't bother you.
off topic sorta: like when I had my dual exhaust up on my hatchback. consisted of 2" ID turndowns, to 2 1/4" cherrybombs, exiting right behind the driver's/passenger's seat area under the car. *LOUDDDD*
I passed by a couple cops and nobody bothered me.
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yeah what was wrong with it?
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synthetics are better oils period. they clean better, have better tolerances and specifications, and remove old dino oil residue/varnish/deposits/ect, from engine(s) rather well. If this means taking it away from a seal that the old oil deposits were keeping from leaking, then so be it... just because you're old motor might leak with a syn change doesn't mean it isn't time to change your gaskets and seals anyways.
btw - on the topic of amsoil, I've had automotive buddies tell me their teachers thoughts, industry stuff, different ads... ect.
I've heard everything under the sun, from checking out their site (with what may be propaganda, or not) to listening to my boss tell me specifically never to touch ANYTHING that doesn't have an API seal on it. I don't know what to believe, but I do know that it sounds interesting that they don't have any american petroleum institute seals on their products.
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Here's the quick way to tune a DFxV/DGxV carburetor. (DFAV 28/32, DGEV 32/36, Holley 5200)
With the car off, warmed up if possible, if not, have the choke fully open.
Turn the mixture screw all the way in. Don't force it. once it stops, it's done stopped! Back it out 2 turns.
Turn the idle screw out until it no longer touches the linkage. turn it back in until it just barely makes contact. Turn it 1.5 more times.
these are base settings for tuning a weber carburetor. From here, turn the car on.
Slowly turn the idle up, and then back down. Find the spot that it just barely will idle at. Then turn it in about 1/4" or until it's the smoothest running.
Adjust the mixture screw by turning it in or out. (in = lean, out = rich)
Adjust it until you feel you have the best position for smoothness in the idle. if you find that it is out more than 2.5 turns, you may want to consider putting in smaller jets. If you find that it is less than 1.5 turns, you may consider putting in bigger jets.
Once you feel comfortable with the running conditions from there, go back to adjusting the idle. Go as low as you can before it starts to die. if you have a/c, turn it on. You want it to idle about 700-900 RPM with full load accessories. All this info on listening is really good for those (like caboobaroo) who don't have tachs! If you feel comfortable with what you think your mileage should be, the way it responds, and if the number of turns matches about what is reccomended for everything, Great. if not, then you might want to consider adjusting internal parts. (idle, mains, air adj.)
all this info can be found on weber's website..... http://www.redlineweber.com
go to technical documents and there will be all the tuning info for their various carbs. The most important piece is the base line settings... if you don't know that, you can'd accurately tune the carb.
Hope this helps.
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yeah, I second Caboobaroo...
except for that I'm still a firm believer in that semi-synthetic blends are a waste of money. a regular dino oil (GTX, or GTX High Mileage) with some Lynch or Lucas additive is really gonna do wonders in older cars, and if you can manage it without leaky seals, full synthetic is reccomended.
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and for us EJ guys, it appears that we can use our inbuilt crank angle sensor to work with MS to do timing/spark, instead of trying to work in EDIS. I'm not sure exactly, it doesn't specifiy... and I haven't read into it too much, but it appears that it has been mentioned as an input for spark triggering.
anybody wanting to drop in that EJ257 motor and have a programmable controller now?
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some of the new porche flat 6 cylinders are kick rump roast... it would be interesting to see one swapped into a subaru.
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searchity search search search
searchity... serrrr.... serrr...sssss......sssrrrrrrrrrrr.... searCCCCCHHHHH
go to nasioc, and search my friend. this is a question that nobody should answer, because it's been discussed SOOOOO MUCH.
The #1 rule to abide by in forums is that before you post, search. sometimes we do get lazy and decide to post before we search... but... in this case, I guess I'll be nice and just lay it out for you.
nothing stops you from dropping in the EJ257 complete lonblock with turbo and downpipe. except, that of course, you'll need the turbo ecu. or to get a standalone like megasquirt. the turbo ecu swap is like 40+ hours of work.
plus you'll need the fuel pump (like a higher output walbro.) and that's basically it. as far as fitment, it's just fine.
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I know it's not me, I don't know Qman at all... and we don't ever talk.
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no way dude, I talk to you every day in the morning! you're waaaay more mad than I am! This is simple bolt ons.
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so, was at WCSS6, which rocked, and with the open hoods and all, was able to make measurements.
1. The hood overall is slightly smaller width on the imprezas. (due to fenders)
2. the lights from passenger side meets the fender, to driver's side meets the fender, is the same distance among legacys and imprezas.
3. the grill looks like it has the same mounting spots.
4. the bumper we already know swaps
5. the fenders are the same length from door to lights/corner of hood area
6. the hood are also the same length from windshield to front end.
So, what with, the lights being curved differently, that means in order to just swap the lights, the fenders, hood, and grill need to be swapped. as they all fit together differently than the legacy front end pieces do. but, it looks like they will swap, so far. the only real way to know is to find someone or a yard that I can grab all these pieces from. I already know of a couple places to grab all the pieces, but I'd have to repaint them.
okay, so when I'm done, if all this works, here's the overall eventual plan for the car: (* means both STI, or both WRX style together.)
Stock Mica Red 947 body color
STi V5 front bumper, matched color to car
STi V5 rear bumper, matched color to car
Legacy WRC Side skirts
JDM Clear (no lines) headlights
OBS Hood (or STI hood scoop *)
WRX wing (or STI *)
possibly the hood and wing either CF or matching the car.
Some may not like the idea of changing a legacy this much, but hey, this is my car, and I'm sure there are some people out there who are interested in getting more aftermarket choice for body pieces. This, if it works, would open up all '93-'01 impreza body pieces (-minus the side skirts, haven't measured them... lol)
btw - the legacys do have a bigger engine bay. so when it comes time for a TT engine, of course, much harder to manage in the impreza. so we DO have the advantage!
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yeah dude, I didn't get pics taken of my car either. nobody seemed to like it much.
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I think you won some awards (as you should) because I went "hey, that legacy is awesome!" and then realized that the paint was so close to the gen I turbo legacy wagon paint scheme, and it was so modded out, I thought it was a legacy! it was sooo cool to see this car man. and the red taillights too.
yeah, too bad it didn't run as well as we'd all hoped. but nonetheless, you got it there, it got some spotlight, and we're all happy.
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hey hey, the money shots.
I took like 5 minutes out of my day to help reattach his bumper and he gave me the $5 that it cost for the spaghetti feed! brian's the coolest.
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I'll have to fork over $5 for one
I need pics of everybody so I can make shirts.
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Yeah, thanks to everyone who helped make it a show.
It was great to get out and meet other sube enthusiasts, to see so many faces, and names, to board names, and to see ALOT of legacys! (granted, first gen, but hey, all those EJ22Ts running around, yeah buddy!)
Awesome show.
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Megasquirt and MSnS on our EJ powered subies!
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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oddcomp: we've been discussing using MSnS, not EDIS to run the car, so I wouldn't need that 36-1 or even any sort of x-1 to run the car. in fact, since I'd be using it on the cam rotation, I wouldn't even need a starting location. As all the signals that are sent should be TDC of each cylinder. (the way I've planned it)
MSnS is a seperate board from what I do believe, it's an add-on.
All of your questions are easily answered by cruising the site, it's not as hard as once believed.... check it out.