JonOfScio

yes, but, they are hard to find from around a U.S standpoint. Also, having two webers would mean most likely alot of time spent tuning and rejetting. At this point I'd be glad not to work on a carb for a while lol.

from about 8:30 to 6:30 I was working on it. I first disassembled the carburetor, sprayed it down with carb cleaner, let it soak for two hours in cleaner while I pulled the intake manifold and replaced PCV valve and thermostat. I took off all emissions lines off the bottom of the manifold and removed all unnecessary brackets from the motor and manifold. Then I pulled the holley off the manifold, and disassembled it. Pulled the jets and threw them in the cleaned weber, along with the throttle plates. NOW - The throttle shaft on the italian weber was straight and fine, but had been rounded off for where the nut goes to hold on the throttle cable. I worked for some time to see what I could do, but to no avail. Looks like I have to get a die to re-thread it. The secondary seemed to be missing a spring to pull it back to where it should be in relation to the movement of the throttle bracket, so I added a spring and to make sure it would stick, I soldered it into an unused area of the carburetor... you have to see it to understand. Camera is in the car! I should show what this pcv valve looks like I pulled out. When removing the pcv hose from the valve the hose broke just above the valve. I could see that for about an inch from the top of the valve, hard flaky layers of crap had been settled for some time. There was no question on if it was working. lol. it was definately closed. I ran out of daylight. Have to get a die and rethread the end of the throttle shaft, hook up the front carb warmer coolant line, fit the air filter, and finish the passenger side pcv setup. It runs. Ran out of daylight to finish tuning, and without the throttle cable attached, it was difficult to get it running lol. It did take a while before the fuel was reaching the manifold though. I think ALOT evap'd out of the lines while I was working or something. Maybe my f/p is going.

okay moderator(s), you can delete this thread. SPFI swap not happening, new thread will be made later for engine cleanup + weber shootout.

if I could find a 4wd donor car (passed up a 4wd EA81 hatch, same color for $400 in december) then yeah. By the time I would have finances for that, I could allow for the cost of a new clutch kit. or, god willing, if I could somehow find a FT4WD tranny with dif lock, I'd most certainly do it. But as time goes on, parts are harder to get you know. FWIW: I'd do an EJ motor and drivetrain/suspension swap if I was loaded on cash. But I'm not. Other possibility: I *could* fab up a turbo box for the carb, sealing it all in. These carbs do actually respond well to that setup. Also, I had planned the possibility of a down-draft 6v72, but that would just be silly. If I could possibly get two EA81 manifolds or two EA82 carb manifolds from someone, I'm willing to do the manpower to make a double weber carbed manifold. but... finding two webers? ack. Like I said, I'd be fabbing up a storm and jobless if I was rich!

I like the pics. Good work. You look very much like my friend Nick Burks.

It's from an older VW, something like 20 years back they switched to making them in spain. Pics tomorrow.

Mike: '85 - '89 "EA71" motors that came in the hatches and brats are strange in that they are essentially an EA81 block and heads with some differences, but do swap onto and can interchange with EA81 block/heads. The intake manifold on up (intake, carb, solenoids, sensors, ECU) are identical to EA81 feedback system, and so thus an SPFI swap is just as easy. Mainly differences include: camshaft profile, crankshaft, rods are longer, pistons, valve size, heads combustion chamber smaller cc's.

well... sorry to discontent, but opportunity knocked and I bit. Not doing the SPFI swap. I was a bit leary of whether or not I would have enough finances for all the nitty gritty parts and sourcing out a fuel pump, when I managed to find a guy who had a REAL italian made weber 32/36 DGAV (with electric choke conversion) I offered him $80 and ran like I stole it. and it has the right air corrector jets in it, so out come the fuel and idle jets from the holley. Which, weirdly enough does not have air corrector jets. Just idle and fuel jets. Tomorrow - remove unnecessary altitude solenoids, remove+strip lines from and clean intake manifold. New intake gaskets, carb gaskets, and cleanup/rebuild the weber. going to clean the engine bay, hide unnecessary wires and re-dress the wiring looms with the new blue and red looms I got. New PCV parts and hoses, rerouted too. It should be purty!!! (How I originally wanted it done on the '88 Hatch) Since I have all the tools to do it right and THEM SOME, even you'd be proud russ! All my tools in the back are neatly organized... OCD isn't for quitters! I also got a butane torch good to 2500 F (or so it says), and some brazing rods good for bonding most metals. This thread will get removed tomorrow afternoon when I get ready to post pics of the engine bay cleanup/carb rebuild/carb swap. Also, might have pics of soldering tutorial (the right way!) With pics of a holley (weber DFV style) and a genuine weber DGV side by side, should have some value to help peoples distinguish. PS: Should I paint the intake red, blue, or polish it? ~Jon DAN: Looks like I can help you clean your shop sunday or monday if you want some help. I've got enough simple green and heavy duty degreaser to get the job done. I almost bought cat litter today too. If I have enough time on my hands, since I have a hold of your SPFI intake, I may clean it up for you. (Just because I can) since it's an easy tear down. ANDREW: If you get bored and want to come BS or whatever, let me know.

fitment issues. had to disable the choke in order to get the throttle cable bracket on, and was working with a limited budget, ect. It's just not convenient for an EA81 motor. This particular one had no air corrector jets, just main and idle jets. Purchased wire looms (red and blue), electrical supplies and tools, got everything needed minus fuel pump. Can't get a hold of Dan today, he's probably busy with other clients or family matters. Off to clean out my car and organize my new tools, clean up and polish SPFI intake plenum. Maybe give GD a ring and see if he has a pump, this could save some time. Plus I still owe him $20 from a couple years ago! damn!

2/13/09 Car is an '87 GL Hatch, FWD. EA71 wide case (1.6L EA81) with 2bbl hitachi and feedback. ~87,000 mi on the odometer, stock everything minus a jerry rigged DGAV weber swap. Please note: It is my opinion that if someone is going to do a weber swap, that they use a DGV casing instead of a DFV casing. I can't stress enough that it is WORTH the money to just purchase a damn redline kit. Or source a real weber. Holley had waaaaay too many variations on the weber "type" carburetor on domestic US vehicles. Just purchased all new tools to replace when I had them stolen from out of my legacy a couple years ago. Who doesn't like new tools? Dan (from Dan's Independant Subaru repair, here in Corvallis) and I will be undertaking an SPFI swap from an '89. Currently have all the swap parts minus a fuel pump. What I aim to do in this process is take pictures step-by-step (or almost) to help make a more complete conversion writeup. Between GD's writeup and the others out there, this should do well. When it is all said and done, I hope to show that this process is NOT that difficult. First off, going to pressure test my cylinders this morning, and we should actually get started on the swap THIS WEEKEND. There is no timeline deadline, but I'm a whiz at electrical work, and the ECU doesn't scare me one bit. I'm actually very glad that I found Dan under Andrew's (Hondaslayer) recommendation. Very cool guy, just the sort of subaru nut we all can get along with. He's got a nice plot and quite a collection of parts. Which seems to reason, I currently have original A/F housing, original feedback 2bbl hitachi, and very shortly the manifold, that will be up for grabs if anyone should want them. I DID have solenoids in good working condition, but I seem to have misplaced them. Probably in the hatch in my Box-O-Parts.

parting it out to people on the boards you could get a couple hundred, and then take the car's shell to a metal recycler and sell it to them.

When I bought it I was thinking it was an '87, it had to be an EA81. I inspected the exhaust first because I knew it very well. identical parts and placement. Looked at the top end and saw the feedback system, and counted the solenoids. Yep, at least I knew what I was in for. All appeared the same until WHAM, I saw EA71 on the block. I searched and found articles I have missed in the past few years detailing the not commonly known '83-'87 EA71 that came in hatches and brats. It's heads, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, starter, water pump, clutch kit, thermostat location, and distributor type are all swappable to EA81 motors apparently. Which would basically mean it's a 1.6L EA81. I would like to know if the rods are longer or different than normal EA71 and EA81 rods. I need to get to bed... yawn.

Here's what we've got going on right now. If I can find an EA81 block in good shape, and get a good deal on gaskets/rings and clutch kit, then I'll have this in the works: '87 EA71 Heads and Pistons valve job EA81 block/crank EA81 intake manifold with polished water and air tracts Weber 38 DGAS *Special hitachi to weber spacer New exhaust I figure with things flowing better, the operating system being simpler, the polishing and whatnot taking care of detonation issues, and increased compression it will work fine on pump gas. I'm not going to deck the heads if I don't need to. I'm pretty sure the car would not exceed 10:1, I need to get CC dish size for the '83-'87 late model 1600 heads/pistons and find which head gasket to use, and which rods would work best before I can figure out it's more true compression ratio. Worse comes to worse, use EA81 heads instead of the EA71 heads. The weber 38 DGAS (38/38 DGxx) jetted properly would not necessarily get worse mileage than the 32/36, but have the advantage of more torque and higher hp capability. I'm not going with an EA82 intake because I do in fact want the EA81 intake for multiple reasons. What's nice is that I have all the tools to do the work. I have the '87 EA71 motor in whole running right now and would have to source out an EA81 short block (in good condition!) and a new clutch kit. I'm in the process of getting the carb and jet kit. It doesn't matter if it takes time to source the necessary parts out, but I wouldn't mind if I got them soon. Having the car down for a weekend and making a BBQ out of it would be ideal. I've gotten terribly efficient at working on cars over the years and wouldn't need any help, but the sound of a newly rebuilt custom subie at WOT sounds purdy and everyone can appreciate. *I have developed a carb adapter that is reminiscent of a velocity stack and reacts like a "torque spacer" with really awesome heat dissipation. I could go into much greater detail, but I guess I'll save that for later. I've posted the gist of it. It's design concept is such of a really really well tuned non-ecu, carbureted, with alot more power and, if not better economy, similar to stock. How's this sound? What I need to know just for my ease right now is which headgaskets to use. If I get enough positive response I'll deluge you guys with info on my planned intake setup, exhaust setup, and electrical improvements. Total cost (highball): $100 for motor, $200 for gaskets OEM or aftermarket (depending on quality of course!) Other plans for the car as finances permit. I forgot to mention, but I already sourced out the 38 DGAS for free.

If you're buying any used motor, it's worth your time and sanity by spending the couple hundred bucks (<$300) to buy a reseal/rebuild kit and then your assured that the motor won't blow a seal or a gasket any time soon. Also, +1 for the post on the headgaskets about Phase I EJ25 motors. It's not that the phase I is a bad motor... sure, it has a different main bearing setup than a phase II, but the headgasket issue really doesn't have to do anything with that... and some of the phase II motors have had headgasket issues too. Also, about the main thrust bearing difference between the two versions, they say the phase II is better suited for higher power figures, but if you're just dropping in a motor to have a new reliable replacement, a phase I in stock has no real disadvantages. Also, you could just get a phase II EJ25 block for cheap (New, less than <$1300 and used maybe as low as $100) and swap on some EJ22 heads. 11.5:1 anybody?

average EJ22 puts down about 100whp. they vary between ~125 chp to 142chp depending on year. more torque, more hp, better all around. but probably more likely to wear and tear your tranny.

cost wise, doing a EJ22 swap would be more $$$ turboing it also, putting a standalone on an EJ22 is more painstaking than doing so on a EA82 IMO. The EA82 has a distributor, (with vacuum lines unconnected in this case) that can easily be used for reference points for ignition setup for some ECUs that might use that feature (IE: Megasquirt for Inj and MSnSpark for spark) you can get 180hp out of an EA82 and still have it reliable. reliability is dependant on all factors of parts, service, and tune. There's tons of people on here who still love and admire the EA82. BTW - if you did want to do an EJ22 swap, just get the adapter going, grab an EJ25 shortblock, and some EJ22 phase I heads. It'll raise compression. Still run premium though. cams (depending on your preference of how hot), crank pulley, header and exhaust, and a good valve job would see about 200hp. no turbo and your power figure =

+1 for GD. The camshafts aren't ground to allow the firing order in that order. If you were to send your camshafts away to be rewelded and ground (alot more than just a simple delta regrind...) or had some manufactured, you could get it to work. BUT - like mentioned, your crankshaft has counterweights which allow it to be more balanced than other types of engines. Even though a (an example engine) F22 Honda Accord motor has a really well designed internals in a motor (run-out, clearances, tolerances, bearings, couterweights, ect.) it is not a horizontaly firing motor like ours, and so therefor they require a harmonic balancer. Our motors (especially the newer EJ motors where it is easier) you can get lighterweight crank pulleys because they do not depend on a dampening pulley (fluidamper, ect. also similar to V8's) If you wanted this to work, you would really need new camshafts, and either rebalancing the crank to accept the new firing order, AND/OR a dampening style crank pulley (more mass=more reciprocating weight, less efficient means of power to the ground... thus why they make lightweight pulleys for newer subarus.) So basically, you would have a horribly unbalanced motor, similar or worse to inlines (did I make the point in that our motors are WAY better in balance?) and you may or may not lose efficiency, overall power output, engine longevity, ect. ect. But hey, say you did do the work and got it to run right, I could be wrong about the previously mentioned problems... in which case, rock on. different is good, but don't forget about the possible theoretical issues at hand.

from working in a lube shop and actually going to an oil class (sounds funny huh?) the most important things to remember were already discussed. if you have a dirty motor and you put an oil in it that really cleans it out well, you'll need to change it more often at first until eventually, the oil you are putting in, is not being put into a dirty motor. If you can put your oil in, drive around the block, and it's black on the dipstick like you never touched it, chances are, you've got one seriously dirty motor inside. Synthetics use less additives, and less additives means it is harder to break down. many other benefits. higher flash point, ect. better shearing results, ect. full synthetics are better all around... older older subies with many miles probably would just end up blowing out some seals.

if you are searching the parts yards, may I first reccomend, that you save up and buy a kit. Most of the carbs you are going to find in the yards that are the weber style won't be the weber 32/36 DGEV. It'll most likely be some variation of a holley made "weber style" 28/32 or similar, with a code of DFAV or DGAV or whatnot. DF = choke on other side, AV = water choke. These DFAV can be found on pintos. they work, but buying a kit is the easiest way to go. I bought two seperate different webers, tried them both, and they both needed a rebuild. so when you spend $40 on a carb, buy a rebuild kit, and then find out you don't really know how to rebuild a carb right, you get frustrated and say to yourself "I should have saved the $300 for the kit and swapped it on". May I also reccomend the search button. Using it you would find this information, along with other interesting facts about webers.

90-96 dual port EJ22 heads have different cam style than SOHC EJ25 heads. But, 97+ EJ22 single port heads use the same valves, same style of valvetrain, and can swap cams.

if he's willing to give you his header and cat section (you did say the whole system) then you could swap it on. From what I understand, '97+ is single port exhaust on the EJ22, and if you've got two cats like a 97 would have, maybe you have an early model '97 branded a '96. Hey, weird things do happen.

and who doesn't love any thread covering a brat? honestly? brats are awesome.

awesome. I really like the frankenstein ideas. that EJ20 has NO ROOM in the front. lol. that's awesome.