JonOfScio

When the carb is out, I'll turn the throttle open all the way, and attach a vacuum line to the actuators, and suck to see if they move. Will I have enough vacuum to it to move it if it should be in good condition? I'll make sure to check all of the shafts and various parts that move for wear and sloppage. I'll be taking step by step pics for people who also wish to rebuild their carbs... I've already done a couple EA81 hitachis and taken apart an EA82, which is very similar. (of what I can remember)

Tomorrow I'll have the time and parts to rebuild our carb on the '87 as it seems to be leaking from the accelerator pump, and possibly elsewhere. the secondary doesn't seem to kick in, and I have vacuum leaks to diagnose, so I'll be making up a vacuum wiring diagram to go along with the digicam pictures. Now for the question. There is three main parts, the top, the metering block, and the bottom. The bottom part of the carburetor, which doesn't seem to pertain (I haven't taken it apart to confirm anything yet, but the last time I did take an EA81 or 82 2bll hitachi) doesn't seem to have anything to do with the metering of the a/f ratio... I was thinking about polishing the ports in it (NOT enlarging them), along with enlarging the ports on the plastic thermothingy spacer to match the carb, and polishing the carb section of the intake manifold. I will be replacing the intake manifold gaskets as well. Anybody think it is worth the time? possibly a worse side effect? anybody done something similar? or should I just stick to cleaning and rebuilding the unit? should I do the mechanical secondary mod? would it be worse on gas mileage? any tips on anything else? I already took off the aircleaner and fixed four leaks...

yes. I recently diagnosed this problem on my sube. Check the vacuum line that runs from your transmission to the manifold. Check all the lines on the t's after that... and make sure they are all snug. We had about four I found yesterday that were hooked up wrong/off or not working right (plugged)

Weeeeeelp, here's the situation. '87 ('86MY) 4dr Carbed, 3AT, S/R 4wd A/C, no cruise, pretty good condition. all straight, small amount of rust spots in one area. no biggy. paint isn't faded, a couple small scratches, but nothing too bad. Bought the car for $300 (it had a rebuilt motor with 3,000 miles on it. but it sat for four years.) paid for title transfer, new tags, insurance. Both front axles, transmission service (tranny dropped, seals replaced, and flush) total of $250. That's $55 per axle, $65 in labor on that, and $75 for the trans service. NOT BAD! New tires too. New stereo, a little JVC with a remote. Some carb cleaner went down the carb... Today, new spark plug wires, disty cap, rotor, and plugs. While I'm at it, going to get a carb gasket, and intake manifold gaskets too... pull the carb off, clean it out and inspect it (it sat for FOUR years and dumped fuel into the oil somehow... you could smell it.) it runs fine but seems like there's some of that "oh this carb sucks" hesitation. Not to mention increasing the timing just a little. On my EA81 hatch it liked 12 degrees more than 8, which is what it was at when I got it. Overall, we sold a $2100 truck that if restored could have been worth $5000 or more just to drive an older reliable less expensive to maintain suby. The fiance now loves subys. She likes mazdas and assorted crap too... but it's all on for the sube world now. I converted her to this wonderful church. SO... while I'm replacing the gaskets, gonne pull out the dremel and do a little work on the manifold and carb. A little better flow never hurt anybody. And everybody knows I have a knack for never leaving anything alone. I might do the mechanical secondary fix too.

ac= (( 1 + [ x / 14.7 ] ) ^ 0.5 ) * SC x = psi of boost SC = static compression (ie: without the turbo, what is the compression of the pistons?) ac = actual compression at given psi so, with that, if you know your built subie motor runs just fine at 12:1 pistons with no detonation issues running pump gas (be it 92 or 93 or whathaveyou) then you know that's a ballpark figure for the max compression you can have after boost too... so, with 7.7:1 pistons you would need 21psi of boost to reach a compression ratio of about 12:1 at max boost. With 8.7:1 pistons you're looking at only 13.2psi of boost. Why does it seem like the n/a pistons give you more power? more bottom end. it's harder to get a 7.7:1 motor to spool a turbo that can flow 21 psi. but if you got it right, it would have a higher crank hp than the other motor at 13.2psi. (but a longer wait) that's why some people go with superchargers and blowers, is because there is no spool time. but not to forget, I don't know if any subaru internals in the EA82 motors could withstand 21psi for very long.

hehe, yeah Trust me guys, I'm going to take real good care of it.

Andrew, could you possibly say anything more obvious? lol. Duh, I'm Jon. Not an idiot. Close, but not completely. IT doesn't smoke, runs and drives perfectly, all the windows work, door locks seem to not work right, but I think they are just sticky from sitting. overall, the car was a little dirty inside and out, but nothing as bad as Caboobaroo's hatch he got that one time... and my fiance's step dad put carb cleaner down the carb. oh, and it's A/T puishbutton 4wd. The guy who owned it misinformed me. The oil was changed yesterday. Next up: take seats and interior out, vacuum, wash windows, and some good car febreeze. Idles real smooth, sounds real good. The exhaust looks like it was brand new right before the car sat. I'll get pictures later this weekend. Are the headers down from the heads supposed to be like almost 2" on the EA82? I remember my hatchback was really small... like 1.5" or something. These look huge in comparison, and the cat looks much bigger than a stock one, but it's still in a Y shape (I think) so is the exhaust for EA82 motors just bigger diameter overall? No oil leaks so far, we just pressure washed it... got most of it clean under the engine and on top. It's missing the air cleaner lid and needs a new element. Rev'd to 7k just fine.

kind of reminds me of Caboobaroo's brat. *sniffle*

So today my fiance is picking up our new ride. (new, lol) '87 GL Sedan Carbureted 5MT S/R 4WD A/C, ect. Because it's carbed and 4wd that means no ecu of course (yay!) for a mere $300 this is going to be home in a little bit (I just got off work) It had a newly rebuilt motor three years ago, got driven about 3000 miles and then sat up until a month ago where the owner drove it some. Upon checking the oil he said it smelled like gas. So he had a lube shop change that. But it smokes a little at start up, evidentally it was worse before but the more it was driven recently, the more it goes away. What could I be looking at in repairs from a sitting vehicle, and also, what about the gas in the oil? Now he says after changing it and driving it around, it smells just fine, and hasn't leaked or burnt any (hasn't dropped level) I have yet to see the car. if it is smoking, and it's puffy white, as I had with my hatch, I would venture to say it's intake manifold gaskets. but outside of that I guess condensation built up in the exhuast? What about the gas smell in the oil? hmmm....

the carb is the same between EA71 and EA82 motors, just jetted different (I do believe) you may be happier going with a weber kit, you know, since you're already doing all of that... but that's another $300 out of your pocket.

hey man, we've all had rough days, but that sounds like that's really rough! Best of luck to ya in the future.

Gnarly. After I typed "check the turbo" I thought to myself, if he pulled the motor himself, he probably already knows this...

Does anybody know what an EA82 (be it carb, spfi, mpfi, turbo) has for a CFM rating on a stock engine? Just curious. Doing my forced induction math, and It would be nice to see a figure. I'm guessing less than or equal to 150cfm on the n/a models.

that's one dirty motor! hey man, while you're at it... don't forget to check for play in shafts of the turbo.

well, an AWD EJ18 isn't going to get that much better mileage than an EJ22. 92mm bore at 67mm stroke, single port intake/exhaust, 4v SOHC vs 88mm bore at 75mm stroke, dual port intake, dual port exhaust, 16v SOHC

that''s awesome if cobb is willing to edit your programming.

the loyale was the only car in '93 (or in the 90s) that had an EA82. The legacys and imprezas had EJ18 or EJ22 (depending)

Pulling that motor isn't that much of a pain (I can't believe I edited it because they wouldn't let me use the B word!). I always think the hardest part is if the dowel pins for lining up the block and the tranny are stuck, it makes it more difficult to wiggle the motor loose. Get a cherrypicker from a friend, and invite someone down who knows how to do it... if you lived near me, I'd help you out for free. Also - consider this... buy a clutch kit if your vehicle is a manual. if it's automatic, consider purchasing a new torque converter. If it goes out after you swapped head gaskets by removing the motor, then you've wasted your time and could have done it earlier. lol. Some things to consider.

the EA82 was never offered in the legacy or impreza. It's an EJ18. After a number of years they just swapped the EJ18 for the EJ22 and forgot all about it. Although, for those who want cheap performance for their EJ22, find some EJ18 heads, get some headwork done to it, and slap it on. (raises compression)

not all EJ25 are DOHC, there were tons of EJ251 motors that were SOHC.

For $2G you could upgrade your turbo, exhaust, fuel system, intake, and completely rebuild the motor. If you're serious about a ccr swap just give them a call.

Wow, that is really neat. Exciting even. With a good FPR, I think that's an awesome upgrade.

that's not so bad. crossthreading a manifold bolt on your motor in your only running (at then not running! LOL) car is waaaay worse. I would have rather stuck my finger in the fan.

That depends on if the heads' manifold ports are any different. At least, I would think that is the only factor. But why would they be? Russel: you should have bought the dual carb EA71 manifold off Andrew and built the ************ out of that motor. Something like WRX pistons (since they are the same bore) sleeved, cammed, and port matched heads/intake.

anybody ever noticed that the RX 3 door with body kit looks like a toyota levin? I don't know, but I think the RX is the best coupe-ish subaru body style aside from the 22B. Old school appeal... hey, anybody got pics of a JDM EA81 based RX? Are they the same body style?