JonOfScio

Yeah, thanks to everyone who helped make it a show. It was great to get out and meet other sube enthusiasts, to see so many faces, and names, to board names, and to see ALOT of legacys! (granted, first gen, but hey, all those EJ22Ts running around, yeah buddy!) Awesome show.

yep, that's right \

side marker light holes? now I must go look at stock imprezas...

this is basically a link to another board, only because all of the info is already in there and this saves space and time. thread.... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=618701 pics... http://www.cardomain.com/id/95lawd later all

I say it's much safer and also much more fun to dream about superchargers than it is to see animals, or dream of lumber mills, or even work for that matter. lol I think maybe the thread in nasioc in the aftermarket section about the guy who's supercharged his late 90's L series legacy (ej22) and wants to make SC kits for the ej18/22/25s, has gotten me to dream about the possibilites. lol

I miss my hatch now. *sniff*

well, actually, the top part of the M90 that swings over to the side and says "supercharger" on it, comes off the top of the SC. there's various versions of the M90, and I found one on the net that would work for my usage for $180 wish I had 180. hehe. I could try my hand at SC'ing my EJ22.... yeah.

oh, that's easy. already figured it out with a stock manifold. EA81 to weber adapter (or EA82 in that case) weber to four barrel adapter GM 6V72 or Eaton M90 (something with a bottom side that bolts up to a four barrel) four barrel to weber adapter(s) one 32/36 DFEV and one 32/36 DGEV carb, jetted for the 1800 stock, if needed, tune the air/fuel all you'd need to do is maybe a little work with the pulley. you *could* get a v-belt pulley.

I've seen a 230 flyhweel hp old school L20B datsun motor, I don't know why our little 8 valve EA82 motor with a turbo couldn't do that or more. But yeah, we all say things like "I want to do this" and not alot of people go through, but hey, WJM as far as anyone knows, was the first person to run a 9.5:1 CR EA82 turbo motor. I'm sure with more fuel it woul dhave have much better power and ran ALOT longer than it did, lol.

I had a dream that my crazy rump roast friend who right now has a Garret T3/T4 on his 8v 1.8L Scirocco got a Eaton M90 Supercharger (Thunderbird Supercoupe, Bonneville SC, ect.) and I stole it to measure it up and wanted to put it on an 80s sube. that would only be so awesome.

my car with a tuneup, was getting about 20mpg city, 30mpg freeway on premium. I average about 25mpg because I do alot of highway and city driving. my "tuneup" as follows... cleaned the maf sensor new spark plugs new fuel filter switched to synthetic oil, new pcv valve, good oil filter. although a real tuneup would probably include a new timing belt (mine's still good) new plug wires, and valve adjustment.

I was coming up on various parts, and had to make a couple decisions... here's basically what I had to decide on. 7.80:1 CR EJ18, turbo use 11.5:1 CR EJ22, n/a use Stroker EJ22, 10.5:1, 2.3L Disp... n/a problem with the turbo ej18 motor is, that i'd need the exhaust, turbo, intake work, and some fuel management. even with an old RHB5, it'd be alot of work. The stroker is a cool idea, I may go through with it. 4mm longer throw on the EJ25 crank, use stock EJ22E pistons, and put in the 1mm longer EJ25 rods, makes about 3mm of more compression, and 2mm more of stroke making displacement. But the EJ18 heads on the EJ22 makes about 11.5:1 by my calculations. So being that I'm going to have most of the parts pretty soon, I'm anxious to start getting ready. Right off, I'll just do the heads on the block swap, get the motor running in the car, and break it in. Then later on when I can, I'll swap in all the little things. EJ22 shortblock EJ25 manifold, all my EJ22 sensors, ect. to work on my OBD II ECU EJ18 heads, with EJ25 SOHC cams EJ25 Injectors, Apex'i Super AFC II Then, when can be afforded... Walbro fuel pump Better injectors (EJ22T, EJ207, EJ257, whatever I'll need by calculations) Fuel cut remover Massive cams, better valve springs, ect. For a total cost of about $30 I got the EJ22 shortblock and the manifold all ready. I'm doing physical labor for the whole EJ18 longblock... and then I'll have to buy the EJ25 cams, and one manifold. The AFC runs $320. bleh. don't want to pay it, but it loooooks soooo coool (which is never a reason to buy anything, lol) and is supposed to work real well. I'm hoping that with good enough head work (p&p, valvetrain), the higher compression, 100 octane fuel, and really overly huge cams I can make somewhere around 250hp. Now, i keep hearing people saying, "oh, you won't make it past xx" but if someone wants to tell me that I can't make it past xx, then I'd at least like to know why someone would think that. so there's a forwarning. Someone told me on my post I put up on nasioc I wouldn't get much past 150hp. I thought that was just hilarious. And yeah, if anybody can show me any reasons why I may not want to use any of the aforementioned parts, or anything, ect. then go right ahead. I know that EJ18 heads are supposed to flow badly, but with porting and polishing, I can make them flow just as well as any other SOHC head could flow. And yeah, i'd like to get my hands on some nice DOHC heads that flow ultra well, ect, but I'm doing this because it's an inexpensive buildup in comparison to turbo motors, ect. I'll spend less than what it would cost for me to buy the alternative that I KNOW someone's going to mention, a EJ207/EJ20G motor swap. It seems like everyone and they're mother's dog wants to do that swap. Why not try n/a once in my life?

yeah, I know! I need new pics. Maybe that's a good excuse to head to Hondasucks' today after work.

Well, one of the detail guys at work was like, "hey man, I know what we should name your car. The Impregacy. Take the impreza and sandwhich it with a legacy." I think it's kinda funny that the two names somewhat sorta go together. Even if it does sound ugly. So anyhow, this is more or less a thread to get me started off on my impreza front bumper conversion on the gen II legacys. My car now sports the gen I front L series impreza front bumper, which is WAAAY sportier than the stock L series legacy bumper. plus it has the 2.5RS wing, which I'm not sure if I want to repaint the same color as the car or replace with something else. so anyhow, anybody out there that is interested in an aftermarket source for other choices in bumpers beyond the outback, L series, and GT series for the '95-'99 legacys, can now grab the '93-'99 impreza bumper. I'm still trying to find out if the bumper beam swaps. this would make life easier. Right now I have made custom mounting points and altered parts of the car in slight ways to get it to work. I wish I had use of a digicam. edit: people who have seen it say it looks much better, pimpin even. but not ricy. definately not that. bleh.

I KNOW I'm goin. making the arrangements with work. might pick up a friend from sandy... maybe not. If anybody sees a "mica ruby" '95 Legacy sedan with an impreza front bumper, a black 2.5RS low profile wing on it, and 6 spoke forester alloys, THAT'S ME! I should be the only legacy with an impreza front bumper on it, AFAIK. And if Caboobaroo doesn't get his brizat road worthy, then he's coming with me. no ifs, ands, or buts. I'll kidnap him if I have to. screw work, he's goin.

my '95 legacy redlines at 6 and rev limits at 6

yeah, my EJ22 runs top and I'm abusive as all hell to it. 15,000 miles in less than 5 months and I shift on regular basis above 4,000 RPM. (most days I start off from every stop with just winding out every gear.) They say these motors are bullet proof stock, and I tend to think beyond the normal wear and tear of any engine with leaky seals, it is.

Well, our O2 sensors aren't one wire, so they aren't "cheap" per say, but I can't give you a quote because I don't know what they run. I got about 20 mpg, and did these things... fuel filter pcv valve new drain plug k&n oil filter synthetic 5/30 switch cleaned the MAF sensor and now I'm getting 30mpg. although your O2 sensor *may* be out too. To clean the maf sensor, disconnect it from the intake and the airbox. carefully of course. then use electrical parts cleaner... clean it out that way, and let it dry. put it back in (carefully) and make sure everything is tight.

You'll need- turbo exhaust manifold uppipe turbo downpipe turbo crossmember (as it fits the exhaust parts needed. the n/a cross member doesn't.) better injectors (IE: EJ22T injectors) better fuel pump engine management to piggy back and allow the higher fuel rate needed but with just the bare minimum, we don't suggest 9.5:1 CR with more than 6lbs of boost without an intercooler on an open deck block. you'll want - lower compression pistons intercooler oil cooler fuel pressure regulator this will allow you to run higher boost. like 10 to 14 lbs. I've seen and talked to plenty of people on various boards who try to demistify the myth that the EJ22E block won't handle 10-14 lbs of boost. It's not the block, it's the high CR combined with the block's open deck that makes you not want to run very much boost. Through all my research, i've come to the conclusion that a completely stock N/A EJ22 block (stock heads, internals, block) is not a good choice. The EJ22E block in itself, in comparison to an EJ257 block like in the STi, has similar thickness in walls. I think that with low compression, good intercooling, and engine management, you could push 300hp from one of these blocks. but I don't know if that's raising the bar too high or not. I know the EJ22T block can handle 500+ hp with the right internals. some say with stock crank and rods, it's possible to hit 500+ in the EJ22T, but I don't know if the crank and rods are capable. The thing to do with an EJ22E block is change the pistons to forged EJ22T pistons or even have some custom ones made up - keeping the forged crank and rods. That's a good thing.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/593247/3 there's me link. changes: feels like it has more torque to it, especially in the lower range... and when the power band kicks in, it feels like it hits a little harder. (3500 to 5000 rpm) may not put any better time on a slip or anything (not that I have any) but the butt-dyno says it's more fun to drive.

Well, not that I want to do that to my legacy or anything... but it was just a curiosity. So the answer is no... but in order to do it, all that work must be done. Don't know if it's worth it.

Ok, old school 4wd subes, you remove the front axles, and put the stubs back in and have at it. RWD! Does this still work with the AWD? Anything different about the center diff in the AWD versus the old school 4WD? Any loss of power if it does work?

what about xt6 injectors? what's the flowrate of xt6/ea82 injectors, and do they swap?

ranger has a point. a honda CVR-955 is a $9000 crotch rocket, it's faster than pretty much any ferrari. runs a 9 second stock. does the half a mile in 17 seconds. goes 230mph. it's fast. some people say you don't need to, but intercooling a car that's N/A isn't a bad idea, you just won't see as much of a difference as if you were running a turbo. What's bad about making sure the air coming into your intake is cool?

Well, your legacy and mine are noticeably the same. Same body, but with the GT I think (think) has the hood scoop, the GT wheels, the sunroof/moonroof thingy, and the spoiler. The hood scoop should come in handy for the TMIC if you went with a JDM EJ20TT swap. That engine is ~280hp. (you can find them on ebay for $1000+. I've seen then go for $1500 to $4000 personally) You'll need the ECU, engine harness, exhaust, and probably the fuel pump would be nice. Or upgrade to a walbro pump or something... if you choose to keep your 2.5L, the most obvious choices are... 1. header 2. cat-back 3. weight reduced pulley (or set) 4. lightened flywheel 5. better transmission (6 speed?) As for the header, most obvious choices are cobb, borla, and TWE. I have no useage experience in any, but it seems that people like cobb and twe for performance and borla for the real "flat-four" developing sound. And the borla is the least expensive to my knowledge. Exhaust, of course, the same manufacturers. There are crank pulleys and whole pulley sets for cars that are lightened. every pound off the crank (flywheel or pulley, ect.) relives about somewhere above 1 hp (like 1.2 or 1.4, I don't remember the given number) of lost hp in the drivetrain, back to the ground. Not that you are gaining Hp, but that you're engine doesn't have to work as hard to get it on the ground. so your loss in the drivetrain isn't as high. (that explanation works) don't forget cams/pistons/headwork. valves, porting and polishing, 3 angle valve cut, ect. some of that stuff can get expensive. There's tons of options I think for the 2.5L. I'm not sure as to which yours is an open deck or semi open deck engine, but if it IS open deck, I'm not one to suggest turboing it. If you want SERIOUS power, but still have some driveability (ie: not relying on serious monster N/A cams) go with an engine swap. also, if you do go N/A and keep the EJ25, an intercooler and oil cooler would help.