JonOfScio

yeah. good to know. I'll have a full report tomorrow. gonna check it out bright and early. i'm so excited! (what I do know says EJ22 on the block, and this means much more power than my EA81 hatch)

I was talking to someone, describing the vehicle, when they told me... "A FOUR DOOR TURBO LEGACY? NICE DUDE!" um, if it has the hood scoop and the tail fin stock, then it's an EJ22T? If so... then... this... is... a... sweet... sweet.... time of my life. 146k miles, awesome paint and interior. going to drive it tomorrow. I couldn't *see* a turbo, when I looked at the engine, but I didn't really take much time to look. Plus, I'm used to looking at EA81s and EA82s. (old 80s subes) thanks for any who reply. (btw - 5 speed)

I don't remember if it was 2wd or AWD. It's in the lot for $5,999, with my employee discount I can get it down to $3,999. no down payment, four year loan, 15% apr (I have no credit) at about $97 a month I could own an N/A EJ22 powered Legacy. How well do these models ('95) hold up to the older of the gen one legacys, and, what can and cannot you do for performance? I know hondasucks was saying something about everything suspension except rear sway bar is possible to bolt on from a WRX. Are turbo legacys different in the ECU area? is it possible to just add one on to the exhaust, and plumb in the connections (ie: oil and/or water) thanks anything to watch out or be aware of? It looks like it's in GREAT condition.

hm, I didn't think about that really... I guess it makes sense. I'm tired today... had a long night and no sleep... Yeah, manufacturer parts are good, but for everything else like the gaskets and seals, I would prefer to be genuine subaru. Idea of cost on the rebuild kit (seals, rings, gaskets, ect.) not including oil or water pump?

Rich: factory parts preferred. how much would a complete rebuild kit run? I would be more than happy to pay you the amount of the rebuild kit (of course before you get it ordered in!)

hm, well, guess I forgot about the RX. And the book I was looking at that had cam specs didn't cover the three door coupe, just EA82 carb, SPFI, MPFI, and turbo. (and EJ series engines to '96) The XT MPFI (or turbo) engine only has one difference between other EA82 MPFI or turbo engines... the grind of the cam. whereas the GL10 MPFI (or whatever other car you could get that in) has a slightly different cam, with of course a lower HP rating. (XT GL10 is 94hp. I *think* other MPFI EA82 engines are 87hp.) I was more or less noticing the differences in the cam grinds in a Chiltons when Hondasucks chirped out some misc. info. about the XT having the best cam grind of EA82 cams. I guess I/He might be wrong... oh well. WJM, did you lose alot of mileage to those cams? I would like of course, something that will breath real well and make that turbo work, but trying to stay out of the stealing my gas mileage area. Dude, you'd know, what does a rebuild kit for an EA82T cost? That's what this whole thing was about, what do they go for?

on second thought, I might just rebuild the engine, keep the internals stock (as the XT has the best cam of any of the EA82T engines) but use some good head gaskets. Put on a better turbo (or a modified EA82 turbo, I have some ideas) a good exhaust setup, and an adjustable wastegate setup + BOV. There MIGHT be room for two turbos in front of the engine (only because it's a late model XT with the radiator slanted) but I'd rather just have one turbo and not have to worry about one turbo being in better condition than the other, or whatever.

is that at the wheels right?

the first three months figure is to get something running... and to start piecing together my parts collection I'll need to get it finished. I may at first just rebuild the engine, and then as time and money allow, start to tear off and bolt on stuff. (keep it basically stock minus the cam change and Cu headgaskets until I have the turbo, fuel, spark, ECU, and management stuff all figured out and planned out.) would a 'hot wire' model be like a '91 legacy type of maf? the one that has the catalyst that measures O2 readings as the air passes by it in the MAF? I wonder if any of the EJ series injectors would fit in an EA82, and of course, which ones have a higher flow rate. Now that I think about it, a pearl silver exterior would look cool.

I agree with the GD man. Find another brat, don't murder a rare one for something you could do to any ol' regular brat.

I'm considering all options. I just primarily want a fast, sleek, really cool looking car and engine. The XT6 engine is much larger (in my opinion) and has more crap on it than an XT4-T engine, so... If room persists, I think the turbos might work in FRONT of the engine (might or might not be possible, been a while since I've looked in a XT engine compartment). Anyhow, probably one after market MAF, and the two turbos bridging together. custom intake plenum piping needed of course... hehe. As I said before, new fuel lines, and engine management (probably try to find a maf and ECU that are known to work together), as well as some sort of injector upgrades. So that should take car of the fuel issues. (not enough fuel, GPH, PSI, fuel cut... whatever) either way on the exhaust part, one way or the other, I think it's completely doable. Even if the TT idea isn't quite able to be done because of space, I'll just move to a nice Legacy turbo and work from there or something. Either way, one stock EA82 turbo and plumbing system isn't going to cut it. I think for a long time as well the engine could stay with the stock disty, but of course get a hot coil and some good wires. Later on after I've had my time with it and I get the extra money I could do something elaborate on the spark system... but it's not the first thing on the list. Also, for the clutch, my considerations are either a 4x4 clutch, or XT6 clutch, or a Centreforce clutch, as they have their own advantages. For the cams I'll need to research durations and patterns to see what helps out on FAI systems. (as we know in theory that some cam grinds help NA cars but kill FAI cars) what do you mean by hot wire model? things I forgot and still have to price out... turbo plumbing, BOVs, and of course, what to do about the wastegate(s).

my current pay (not including overtime, which I do receive a good amount of) along with my bills... I make over $540 every two weeks. My current bills are $100 a paycheck towards my rent. $40 a week towards gas... and $20 a week towards spending. (CDs, food, whatever I want) I'm being more frugal now than I ever have before. LONG STORY. I used to bring in $330 a week after taxes and I don't know what happened to it. That was months back. So... $220 a paycheck out of $540 (and I do get overtime, so my actual pay will be higher... this is all after taxes) I can save up potentially $320 or more every two weeks. In three months I should have $320 * 3 months * 2 paychecks a month = $1920. * Car - $350 to $400. See how much I can haggle down. * Major rebuild kit - $200 to $250. Don't know, NEED a quote. * extra turbo - $75 or $100 * custom exhaust needed made up - $200 to $250, nothing fancy. can get some of it made by myself and friends. the downpipe is the important part. * new injectors - don't know what works or what doesn't, don't know what to figure. * solvents and such - figuring high, $60 * paints - $20 just to be safe * cam regrinds - $120 (don't need an insane grind, just something better than stock) * staying with the 7.7:1CR pistons * intercooler - $100 to $150 * Cu head gaskets... - $60 At most, this brings the cost up to $1410 for my project. There will be lots of little things I'm sure... that gives me roughly $510 to work with extra for injectors, pump, fuel lines, management, and whatever other little things I want. Of course, this is just a three month idea... I could have something driveable in three months and add on stuff later. Overall concept is a twin turbo engine, with two stock EA82T turbos. XT for the body and concept car, body work done, repainted rally blue. engine and transmission painted rally rellow. intake rally blue. FWD might swap in a better tranny though, don't know what the gearing is. Reasons for the EA82T turbos and not something smaller - If the car spools up with one turbo and two banks of exhaust at about 1500 RPM, then with one turbo on either side, it should spool up at higher than that... about three grand or so. This way I can get economical driving when I don't shift above when the turbos kick in... then when I want to slam it, get launched into the seat at three grand (or whatever). Was thinking my exhaust could have an H pipe before the turbos and a Y after words... that way I can equalize the banks and move the exhaust back through the stock location to the back fo the car... don't know what size of diameter, but I want it to provide torque. don't care about a huge 4" cat back system. Caboobaroo wants to make a EA81TT with two Chevy Sprint turbos, but I don't want my car to ALWAYS be running the turbos and sucking in soo much gas. if I mash the pedal and shift at 6k, I at least know *when* I'm throwing money away into my mileage. These are my ideas. So yeah... I think it's doable. My BIGGEST concern is strength of the transmission and axles.

Where can I get one at a good price? Complete rebuild kit. Seals, gaskets, rings, ect. I'm planning on buying the XT sitting in the partsyard... a rebuild later with a new oil and water pump and battery, it should be a happy little wedgie. (new exhaust and twin turbo'd too) All of this work to come within about two or three months time.

Can you dip it in chemtool? What's the best way? dismantle it and individually clean the walls and propellers? This is out of curiosity.

once I get the time and money to put my Motorcraft 2150 on my car, I'll make a write up about it. for right now, it's my daily driver... so until I get a new car to drive, the hatch ain't getting messed with.

Well, no, but the idea is thus... It's a massive carb with huge venturis and such. It requires ALOT of air coming through it to get an accurate ratio. (idle of a small CID vehicle might be a prob) you *could* get it to work if you rejetted it right, had a right kind of acc pump and power valve in it.

yeah, go to turner. They have a justy or two there and might have a factory tach in the dash. Good job man! you keep raking in the cars man. Sell something, will ya?

when I first replaced the stereo in my hatch I had the same problem - power wire behind the deck touched the body of the deck and grounded the lead that comes from *wherever* That's what got my my $62 ticket... tail lights out. These guys in corvallis are dicks. No fix it ticket for me.

If it just "all of a sudden" happened like this, I would say what they are saying. Make sure you got the right O2 sensor, and that you hooked it up right. Try cleaning the maf sensor with electric parts cleaner and stuff. If anyone knows a better chemical to use on a MAF that 1. won't hurt it, and 2. cleans like a mother... post it.

Well, since I got me a new job, my plans are now in effect. This job in a number of about four months will allow me to do this... $1200 to my dad $400 for the rest of my guitar $600 for gas for four months ($32.5 a week) save about $800 in the bank for my wedding coming up in december and about a -grand- for my next car endeavur. I'm going to haggle the price down on the XT-T sitting in the JY, probably get it for around $350 to $400, and then buy the carbed EA82 sedan in the same yard, for about $75 (what he will charge probably, estimate high for safety) then get myself a rebuild kit, and some delta cams, ($120 and figuring about $200 for the kit) That leaves me with $200 for misc stuff if something should not appear in good condition. (axles... tires... whatever little things.) This way I'll have a 8.7:1 turbo engine. They say 9.0:1 and under is commonly excepted as safe. And I know WJM has done 9.5:1, but I don't want to build an awesome motor and have it die... so I think 8.7:1 is rather safe. It'll have a new clean and painted engine. I'll probably paint the tranny as well. Rally yellow. Then when I go to repaint the car... rally blue. what do you guys think?

I've known/heard of Honda drivers to put superchargers on their I4 vehicles. And you do NOT have to have a carbureted vehicle to have a supercharger, just as much as it's not required to have fuel injection for a turbo. both are possible, but the supercharger is easier on the carb than turboing it is. Carb manufacturers do make special blower carbs. designed for blow through or draw through. (draw through... super underneath. blow through, super on top.) Easiest thing to do, is get a blower that sits on top and works for any two barrel or four barrel. Then get all the adapters to work our manifold into that size (IE: I have 2" of adapters to make it so that my ford two barrel will fit) and put the combo on, and engineer a way for a new pulley to be added to the belt system. remember our EA81 pulleys have to slots, on the non P/S, non A/C cars like mine, one is unused. extend the pulley on the super out a little... and walah. either get a larger alternator belt and tie it in to the already made system, or put it on the other line and find a way to make a bolt on belt tensioner.

87 Pimped GL: That is WAY pimp.

here's what you do. Get two of the same car... (year, model, options) and supe up one car with the engine you want. Change license plates and VIN numbers when you go to test... test with the stock unmodified car. like a '78 and a '79 wagon would work. (anybody know of VIN swapping on this one? GD?)

my hatch: 175/85/R13s, 2nd gear at 4.5k is 45mph.

Oh man. Skip, that was HARSH. hehe.