JonOfScio

but, I have hydraulic lifters, why would I need to check my valves?

I would suggest draining your radiator, and disconnecting the top hose. This is the one that goes directly to your manifold. you might as well just pull the manifold off and take a good look at it to get familiar with it before you put it back on. Replace both seals just to be safe. USE PBlaster to get those bolts off, don't run into what I did. A broken bolt. use some red high temp RTV silicone to seal it. Make sure BOTH surfaces (manifold and head) are COMPLETELY clean, shiney, and rid of cardboardy gasket material before applying a new one. Torxxx - it was probably me, I've gotten to know my EA81 and EA82 manifolds pretty good from when I tried (and failed horribly) to do a swap on my EA81 engine. first things first, be glad you have an EA82 manifold. The carb mount has way bigger open surface area than the EA81. Bigger is better for flow. You can get a weber adapter for it, and put on a 32/36 or even a 38DGAS. (38/38 instead of 32/36) or get a weber to holley/two barrel adapter and put on a holley 2300, a 350cfm two barrel. I would suggest this one if you wanted a huge carb because the jets aren't too expensive: a jet kit runs $30 and has a ton of jets. Or, put on a two barrel to four barrel adapter and you're choices of four barrels has quadrupeled from the two barrel. secondly, if you want, you could stay with hitachi. Go out, find an EA82 4wd carbureted car. Grab the carb. Switch the secondary jet to one from a 2wd EA82 car. at idle and cruising speeds you'll have an ECU-less great mileage. At WOT, you'll get great power, but a really crappy gas mileage. The FWD carbs have ECU stuff. And yeah, Carbs are bad, but it's what I have to deal with until I get or make my car FI somehow.

Well, replaced my oil pump mounting gasket. no go. Bought the front crank seal for $10. Bought a oil pump rebuild kit for $5.99. Need to buy a oil pan gasket now, and I'm all set with my oil adventures. Oh, btw - I got my first cylinder to fire better. New spark plug (again) and new oil with an additive. I think my oil leak is hurting my oil supply to that piston.

it only takes you TWO hours to change cams in your engine? what all is entailed?

but WJM, for you, and all the other EA82 people, $120 for two cams is because your cams are small, for someone with an EA81 like me, it would be $120 for one cam right? Even at that, it's way better pricing than paeco. Paeco can do lots of stuff Delta can't, but that's because Delta specializes in one field... CAMS. heh. Delta Cams. get it? ...nevermind. Anyhow. I want to know, if you drive your '86 XT-T around normally, what kind of mileage your getting on average?

I have my hatchback's timing increased to 12 (from 8) and run 93 octane. One time before I put in additive and ran it at 14 degrees. I was afraid of getting my engine too hot, so I put it back down to 12 and went back to super. Any EJ series WRX ECU would work right?

check out the engine specifications site of ultimatesubaru.org go into 80s subarus and then check into whichever category you want. you'll get engine HP/Ft# information for each engine.

well, I'm replacing valve cover gaskets today, I'll turn her over by hand and check the valves.

oh, I didn't necessarily want it for my hatch. although that would be way too much fun! I've heard of an EJ engine/tranny/driveline swap into a hatchback before. Moosens I think has an EJ22 in his hatch, but with a EA to EJ tranny adapter. trying to gather information for a guy who's trying to build up his Triumph GT6. He's CONVINCED the best engine for it is a Mustang SVO engine. He thought before that he wanted an SHO engine... he drives a focus, what's the deal with Ford and this guy? Oh well. thanks for the info.

yeah. my fiance is learning that of course, cheap oils equals cheap engine life. She has a '93 tercel, and I think the piston rings are going out. Does it help she always buys the really cheap oil? When you start to notice your car eats oil, DON'T PUT IN JUNK OIL! If it looks like water when you pour it, it probably is.

I've found it on ebay, $1200. One person says 260hp stock, the seller says 280hp stock, what are the figures on the engine? It's crazy to think a 2.0L even with a turbo setup is getting more than 220hp. Crazy. But FUN. Anyhow, I'm more of an older subaru fan, but I thought y'all in the new boards might appreciate this JDM engine find. now, if I am correct, the EJ20TT only comes from japan, was never imported stock right? couldn't find anything saying it was. Isn't that how JDM works? aren't they a distributor for hi-perf engines we don't get here in the states?

there's both an XT-T and a turbo wagon that could donate to the turbo hatch. Of course I would just rather buy the XT outright!

well, first off, I've cleaned the disty cap and cleaned the rotor, and played with new spark plugs and different wires, so I'm pretty sure it's getting spark. I do have a compression tester on loan from Hondasucks. Just need someone else's help with it. The rest of the info is surely good to know.

hm, now that I think about it. I think the spark plug hole's grooves and very top of the head are dirty with fried oil. I lubricate the spark plugs as I put them in so they don't go in wrong and so they make a good fit... I wonder if it's so charred it's not making a ground for the spark plug! Hm. Oh well, the car is at my girlfriend's house, so I have to wait to touch it until tomorrow.

I know it gets spark to the plug, I got zapped a couple times playing with wires. so maybe it's not grounded properly to the head? this sounds like an all too EASY and certainly interesting idea as a fix. This is probably it.

if it fires on three other cylinders, is it possible there could be something wrong with the distributor when it comes to the first cylinder?

My engine is all internally an '88 EA81, so it has hydraulic lifters, and the old heads used to have bigger valves, but the heads I have on now are two drivers' side '83 heads. Not quite sure about the year, but they have the same size valves for sure.

yeah, tested out the wire on a couple other cylinders, and also used another good wire. They aren't bad. Used a new spark plug as well. As well as an old but good one.

Never had any problem with rings before, and I don't suppose they just 'go' I put some oil in the cylinder to test it out, all it did was puff smoke out the back. Taking the spark wire off the plug results in no change of idling sound at all. Is there a crack in the intake and exhaust ports? Is the only way to find out to take the head off?

How detailed is the rebuild kit? I say just grab a rebuild kit. Post a message on the marketplace - maybe has some they can't get rid of.

well, while I'm at it, I might as well figure out why my first cylinder isn't doing too well. maybe a crack in the head... I think I might get the money from my unemployment and just grab a new head gasket. Yank off the head while it's in the car... and I'm in a garage... I've gotten good at doing the manifold off lately, done it bunch o' times back in the day when I was having so much trouble getting the car running. maybe the head is bad. Andrew's got some other ones... then there is of course my old driver's side head that is still good... clean it up and see if I can't get the AIS valve off... oh well, we'll see.

nope. not here. actually, got a credit card rejection notice, but I don't know if it was for the one I wanted or not.

Although it only had 100,000 miles on it, when I got my car, the guy didn't really take very good car of it. It's now around 138K. So far, the water pump has gone out, fuel pump, fuel filters a couple times, carb needed a rebuild, and had some messed up experiences of my own. Now, it looks like cylinder number one is bad until you hit 3,000RPMS and my car launches like a raped ape. Which isn't too bad, it drives, and isn't having too much trouble... but last night, i know it had been slow and in time coming to me, but my oil pump seal went completely out. Oh yeah, this is alot of fun. I already have new oil pan, and valve cover gaskets, so to clean up my entire engine compartment and reseal all the oily stuff of my car seems like a great Idea. But, for $200 I could go grab all the parts from a donor turbo wagon to turn my bad hatch into a little turbo'd FWD 5 speed demon. Add about $100 for that for more types of gaskets and seals and I'll have a reseal kit and a whole new engine. I wish my damn credit card would finally come! If it only came this day, I would start a turbo engine swap RIGHT NOW. ***Goes out to check the mail***

I was going to say ... it's almost impossibly unlikely that it's the turbo (at least as far as our subarus) Definately either - headgaskets, and/or freeze plug failure. I had both happen on my car while I was still workin on it.

well, I was going to say "everyone always tells me YES!" but then again, those are people with V8s and american engines. (which are way different in working order than our engines) If subarubrat has his ER27 in his Brat rebuilt without using a deck, then I would say it's a moderately safe idea.