JonOfScio

Actually, Andrew, a rejetted *anything* will work on anything. I've got a friend with a 1.8L VW with a 4 barrel 500CFM carburetor. No, no site or anything, but if you're curious about parts and costs, just post it here and I can call.

Same reasons why I like EA81s, and the style. Old school all the way.

well, an EA82 you can do the same things... weber swap and remove vacuum lines and stuff. EDIT: where do you live in the NW? There's lots of board members around.

Now that you've got GD's old turbo wag, what's your plans for it? Just curious. Gonna fix it up and sell it?

And of course another thing that can be done is a legacy turbo. Any turbo bigger than the stock EA82 one.

He's done more mods, but can't get the boost above 7.5PSI. On top of that, he punched out the second cat. The cat in the up-pipe he hasn't done anything to. His exhaust exits the car from right before the rear wheels. (no muffler or midsection!) He's done the whole "cut the bottom of the box" thing and it sounds good. When he kicks down from high levels of boost, it makes a sound of a growling dog (IMO) which isn't bad either. But at higher levels of boost he'll want a BOV, and he plans on putting in a turbo timer sometime. he's trying to buy an intercooler, and he has a WRX hood scoop. he just needs to plasma cut the hood, and go at it. also has an RX dual range 5 speed tranny in there, and RX seats. (nice)

the manifold isn't heated, it's cooled. IF the manifold didn't have water running through it, it would heat up REALLY hot. Whereas, water passing through it helps to cool it. This is also why there is a black spacer between the manifold and the carb, you WANT the least amount of heat around the carburetor as possible. And you couldn't plug it up, because the water passage goes from one head, through the manfiold, to the heater core, back through the engine. You'd need to direct the water to the heater core, FROM the passenger head, and then of course find some way to keep the manifold cool by other means... (a seperate cooling system?) Before swapping to a weber, with the stock hitachi and all the vacuum lines and stuff, I could bark it into fifth gear. So I'm eager to see what a weber will do on my car. Designed my own vacuum system too. No vacuum lines = one pretty cleaned up block. Eager to get it up and running. Oh, and yeah, a dual carb jap manifold is pretty rare. Imagine TWO hitachis, or hell, TWO webers. nice.

carbs.net.... ect. The best way to go of course is to go pull one from a junk yard, find a Ranger with a 2.3L and a Holley/Weber 32/36, no need to rejet, as it's jetted just right for subies. This is the one I grabbed. Then order a rebuild kit, some carb cleaner and engine degreaser, and of course the adapter plate. Then you could swap over the fuel inlet/outlet from your hitachi onto the weber, then buy of course the air filter assembly. All of this together, from a new carburetor is about $300+ whereas I paid $35 for the carb, $8 for cleaning supplies, $80 for the air filter assembly and the adapter. (genuine redline, a little bit expensive, but I got it next day from a shop) So of course $123 is way better than $300+ for a weber kit IMO. And a 32/36 DGEV or DGAV (aqua, for the water assisted choke) either will work I have the DGAV.

When the "yard" opens up again, I can ask Mike if he has any extra webers. I finally found how to get a four barrel on a sube. Ready for this? There's a Ford two barrel to weber adapter. get the 4 barrel to two barrel adapter, and the weber to sube adapter. Then it'd go... 4 barrel to 2 barrel to weber to Sube. That's about 3" of adapters. hehe. But, it IS possible. And a induction hood or a hood scoop could fit it. But I'm happy with my weber now.

hey man, while your at it rebuilding your engine, take the "spaghetti factory" of vacuum lines off your manifold. There'll be screws underneath and it'll lead to some thermovacuum valves... just take off all the vacuum lines; that way you don't have to buy so damn many vacuum caps. Then clean the manifold up and repaint it, that's the way to do it.

well, maybe someone on the boards would be willing to help you out. There's lots o' nice people on the boards.

I got a replacement Disty thanks to Andrew... and it's a little dirty inside. Is it possible that I could clean it out with some degreaser, if there is any that has no electrical conductivity? thanks

yeah, to install any EJ engine you would need a tranny adapter plate for the engine to use on your EA82 tranny, or just go all out and swap in the legacy transmission, axles, and driveline. everything!

it is my belief that there is in fact EJ18 engines. 1.8 EJ seires engines. Shouldn't be too much smaller than EJ20 or EJ22 engines... and probably not much if at all different in size frmo EA82 engines. Might be worth some work to try it out. I'm sure there's alot more that you could do with an EJ18 to supe it up than an EA82.

I know that the XT6s use EA series trannies. They use them just mounted differently is all... XT6 FWD has a EA82 5 speed FWD tranny with an XT6 clutch. (bigger! mwahaha)

I like Castrol GTX 20w50 High mileage with some MMO in it. Made my engine sound the quietest and leaked the least. (I didn't really seal my valve covers or oil pan gasket as good as I could have, but at least it doesn't leak much. Maybe a couple small drops a night.)

uh... an EJ series tranny to fit the legacy crossmember? I don't know what you mean by solution...

I would think the engine *could* handle more than 14 PSI, maybe not much though! If corky could put SPFI pistons in his car with his turbo and run around 7 to 8 PSI, then I would think that a stock 7.7CR engine could handle more than 14PSI. But i wouldn't know, never seen a suby or heard of one with more than that. It is my understanding that an XT6 engine is almost quite literally an XT4 engine with two more cylinders... same pistons, everything... but nobody knows quite for sure, or have said anything anyways.

Okay, from what I hear, you want a huge 3" bed catalyst three way to replace your (two) cats for best performance. What I plan on doing is 2" from the heads down, make my own Y, 2.5 from there back, big performance three way pretty much in place of the second cat (so as not to be under the stupid axles and kill the boots!!) and then back to dual 2" with two turbo mufflers. Here in Oregon it's legal to replace two two ways with one three way. The idea of the first two way is to get some bad stuff out of the exhaust and the second is to filter the other stuff out... so... the three way is actually both cats end to end. More convenient package. Get one WITH the air, and then hook up my resonance tubing that I currently have on my car... makes it sound mean when the cat sucks in air.

hey man, my phone is being dumb. Anyhow, I think it's the Rol gasket on the passenger head. If you could compression test it, that's all I'd ask for you to do with it. After that, I'm sure it'll say it's that side. Then leave it till friday night, where you'll give me a run through of taking off the head and putting it back on. That plus my manual, I think I can do it. And I'll go from there saturday, so that way, it won't involve you doing too much more work past the compression test. Thanks alot man.

I've got an '88 manual hatch, and there is space for 20oz and smaller drinks to fit in the open console space behind the e-brake.

I found a sweet little shop that can get me next day shipments of official Redline weber stuff. I ordered my adapter and air cleaner and it got to me the day after I ordered it.... at about 9:30 it came in! Not terrible pricing either.... it's a dollar over carbs.net's pricing for the 1" Weber 32/36 to EA81 adapter... but you don't have to pay for shipping, so who cares? Jets, accessories, gaskets up the wazoo, this guy is loaded. Plus he's a nice guy and is insanely knowledgeable. Performance Racing, on Portland rd. in Salem, OR I'll get the number later for people who might want it.

This is my third undertaking of cleaning a carburetor. If you've minorly dissassembled it, and found that all parts are in working order, *except* that is is REALLY dirty, then this works for you. Otherwise, completely dissassemble into parts, and soak in engine degreaser/carb cleaner, then rinse with water. First off, I start with two 16 oz cans of carb cleaner. Blast the hell out of the sides, insides, and all around any parts looking dirty. Let it dry after the first can, then repeat. Make sure to get the throttle spring and return stuff, the sides, bottom, and the valves and barrels. Let it dry, then spray like hell with engine degreaser. Wait for 10 to 15 minutes, (I did this all outside on a work bench) then take your 1. power washer or 2. garden hose with handle, and clean it inside and out until you don't see engine degreaser coming out of it. I used Gunk Engine Degreaser, because it's a little pink, and with grease, it gets darker. When you're cleaning it out with water, the degreaser is still pink comnig out of the carb. Anyhow, so with this, I went from a completely oil encrusted and dirty Weber (you couldn't tell it was a weber, the W was hardly visible) to new and almost shiney. this one has a dull appearance normally. The insides were sooooo dirty, the carb cleaner didn't really touch it, only the dirty on the outside. So that's why I used engine degreaser. Can't wait to put this bad boy on my little hatch. Of course, if you plan on COMPLETELY rebuilding a carburetor, I suggest dissassembling it and soaking it. Then cleaning, reassembling with new gaskets and parts.

the guys at ram engines got an EA81T (MPFI Turbo) to 200HP dyno'd only with 8lbs of boost. Peformance everything of course. Look at finding an EA81T out of a Turbo Sedan, and then buying about $1250 to $1500 in stuff, (already priced the parts) and you could get 200HP like they did. Only retained thing in that engine was the heads and the block...

Short air filter, K&N, plus assembly. The kit includes jets and the adapter. Plus, I get it tomorrow, not a week from today.