JonOfScio

Fiber Fab, my dad knows the second in line to the onwer and I'm trying to get a new job.

hey, I'm going to leave here about 8:00 to run and get you at (wherever you are) and then run up to Gervais to apply for the job. Are you at home? later

but the next question is, does the turbo plenum from an EA82T work on the SPFI manfiold? Don't tell me a turbo EA81 NA shortblock wouldn't be cool.

So, I've heard the SPFI manifold will bolt up to an EA81. Would I get any performance increase over my 2bbl hitachi, better mileage, right? And, If I did it right, could I get a MAF sensor to work on it? do they come with them? what about using an EA82T plenum with a turbo? This would all be interesting on an EA81 NA engine with carb heads. right? right? thanks.

I've heard 8 to 10 is good, but if I'm really wanting the performance out of my 92 octane gas, then 12 would be good right? how far should it advanced? thanks.

I checked out MSN autos for a '92 loyale, and I checked out kkb and it said AWD. I didn't know they put AWD into any car that had an EA82.

Looks like the loyale is: Is it a wagon, four door sedan? SPFI EA82 90Hp either AWD, or FWD 3 speed, or 5 speed KBB says: In best condition, with 138,000 miles, a 4 door sedan is worth $2095. I say go for it. Even if you don't want the car, you'll definately get more than $900 out of it!

In my hatch (EA81) Reg Autolites worked ok. NGK V-powers work awesome, and the bosch platinum is $0.20 more per spark plug, and there is only a *little* difference in my car. but it runs great with either NGK or Bosch (v power or regular platinum) So if you want to save $0.80, or spend it, it doesn't really matter to me, as far as my car goes.

It's a good thing friday was a good day, saturday sucked. The first half anyhow. I was at work. You just CAN'T make sales in albany. I've never worked this hard and got as little results in my job... so it's discouraging. But of course, it is the location. But my lead refuses to except that it's the area... (even though the person I replaced coulnd't make sales EITHER) But then the night was cool. Did some stuff with Andrew, Russ, and met some new people I only heard names of but never saw any faces to. Went to the gut, saw some people do dumb things and get tickets. heh. Out near Andrew's on a straight stretch, Russ drove the turbowag and I drove my hatch. We parked it, both in line, and he went, then I went, to see how they matched up. (in one lane) He accelerated away ni the lower MPH but in the higher end I stuck pretty much the same distance behind until 80mph (4th of my 5 gears) where we decided to let off of WOT. I was about 4 car lengths or so behind when we decided to stop accelerating. Guess my hatch ain't so bad afterall? But of course you have to figure his is about 115-120Hp somewhere and mine is about 80-85Hp somewhere, with his car weighing more than mine. All hail the turbowag. All salut the hondas with tickets. :moon:

Old school subaru stereo wiring can be crazy. Anyhow, you may have two dash speakers, and two door speakers. The dash ones with good wires, won't sound bad even if they're getting 40w peak. I put old 5" subaru speakers in the rear wells of my hatch, and I'm running them with two front door 4x10" speakers (kenwood three way) and they all sound good on my 40wx4 deck. But higher quality will do you better. If you're dash speakers are like mine (which are disconnected) like 3x6" or something, then you'd best keep them, cause I don't think you can find manufacturers making them.

hell, I'm going to rebuild an EA81 NA carbed car that I'm going to get from andrew. If there'll be one sweet EA81, I sure hope I'll have enough money to make that it.

I basically did this. bought a 4" deep dish chrome cleaner kit. modified the bottom piece by taking the top lip off. Used the 2 5/8 to 2 5/16 spacer. bought a 9" chrome air filter assembly, with the 2 5/8" adapter. Used the bottom part of the 9" chrome cleaner upside down. Put the spacer/adapter under it. Now the problem, the difference between the spacer/adapter and the neck of the carb is 5/16. So, use the adapter and the bottom part of the modified 4" cleaner to hold it in place. So it's all snug. It's an interesting thing, so you really need to see it in person. The valve covers have breathers on them, the air pump to the second cat has an identical breather, and my crankcase breather needs one like it... but I haven't had the money for a $22 cleaner for it. (specially made for the smaller tubing) When the secondary valve opens, you can hear it sucking air. It's sweet. Now the engine breathes alot better. That with the electrical things I've done (coil, wires, cap, rotor) and the performance muffler (see picture) have all helped to put my'88 EA81 N/A carbed engine a little bit faster. With the tires I've put on the car (the cheapest 175/70/R13 tires I could buy) I can chirp the tires in every gear, really peel out in first and a little bit in second if I let off the clutch just right. FWD.

If you're trying to get more power out of your car, put in a manual transmission. Automatics can steal up to 40% of the engine's power. Whereas manuals are only 10%. An Accel coil with good wires, new cap, and rotor (I paid $45 for a super stock, $20 for new wires, and about $12 for a new cap and rotor) will help alot. so all you really need is a good cap, rotor, and a good coil. As for the air box, cut out the bottom to get a more beefy sound. Take off the warm air duct if you want to suck in cold air more. Depending on how cold a climate you live in (I'm in oregon, so it's no big deal) but if you're in alaska, I'd really not touch it at all. Here's a good picture of something to do to a carburated car.

I always seem to get the most work done on friday nights, or when I'm at andrew's house. So, story #1. The guy before me partially rewired some of the stereo wiring, had put two different stereos in the car after the stock one, and I had to deal with it. I finally found all of my ACC leads, hooked one up to my CD player which had previously just ran off battery. always on, but pressing power with or without the key in would turn it on to play. I cut off the old spliced and messed up power/speaker connectors, and got as much old non-used wires out as possible. Re wired front left side by putting new 12guage wire in through the dash. Found the old rear well wiring by messing around with colors till I got it. so I've got two Kenwood 4x10" speakers in the front, and two subaru 5" 10w 8ohm speakers in the back. It's decently loud, got some bass in the front, but needs an amp and subs. The suppose-d 10w speakers are handling my stereo at full blast just fine. Of course I've heard that clipping a speaker is 10x more harmful than sending more clean wattage to it than it should get. (a 40wx4 max Rampage of some sort. Gets decent radio reception, has a pair of 2v preamp outs, preamp ins (mp3 player) and plays written cdr and cdrw disks. for $100 it's not bad. The front speakers were $60 together used, and the back ones were free from Andrew) so along with the wiring, a made part of a dash kit. I took part of a subaru dash kit, which wouldn't work, and cut half of it off. Took the half part to cover over the top left beside the ash tray. (the car in my sig) and used a drill and drill bit to make the right holes. Two screws, and I'm done. So when i can get a small piece of black plastic again, I'll make the other part that'll cover the right side under the ash tray. I think I feel pretty good. and btw - Russ (Caboobaroo) thinks I should put my car on the Gut in albany one of these nights. I've timed my car by my cd player, got 15s to 60mph. Is that good for an EA81 hatch? I think I shouldn't till I've done my engine and exhaust swap. heh.

GM owns 24% of subaru. What happened was, subaru owed money to a bank a while back. Owned by one of the other jap cars (I think either Nissan or Mazda, but mazda is owned by ford) the bank wanted the money, and subaru didn't want to give out and end up in the hands of another jap car company, so they sold some stock. GM bought 20% with a deal... Ever notice that subarus are sold at nearly every GM dealership now? Subaru wanted more publicity and places to sell their cars, and GM wanted some special rights to subaru's AWD technology, so a tradeoff began. I think it was either that prior to selling 20% of it's stock, or thereafter, GM bought another 4%. So that's the deal, as I've heard it. GM owns 24% stock in Subaru.

I'm looking at in the future, a dual of some sort. Probably making my own new exhaust as such... exhaust flanges, welded to 90 degree mandrel bent pipe. I've measured it already. It'll drop 8" from the bottom of the engine to the bottom of the bend. Then immediate H pipe, haven't decided if I want a cat on both sides or not. (if so, Hi performance of course) tubing all the way back, to purple hornies, pipes exciting rear. right now I have stock exhaust with a raptor muffler at the back with a chrome tip. A little lower than the normal sound, sounds good.

Front of the hatch. Hood has 5" stripes, black, and a silver colored grill.

dude, miles, that sounds like way to much work for me. I think I'd mess up on a hitachi 2bbl carb, there's way too much stuff. have you tried the carb cleaner yet?

The great thing about the 9" air cleaner is that it breathes more. Once you switch, you can hear it (or at least, you really know it's there) when the secondary valve opens up, it can be heard. Here's all the mods I've done. rewired audio wiring, new cd player, kenwood front 4x10" speakers. ($190) 175/70/R13 tires. (crappily put on, not balanced, had to reput the wheels on the car!! $140) Bosch platinum plugs. ($8.80) new wires, cap, rotor. (under $35) new water pump. ($40) Change oil religiously. ($12 or so) Valve cover breathers ($5x2) Air pump breather ($5) 9" chrome air filter assembly and parts ($40 total) Hawaiin print seat covers ($60) new front disk brakes, turned rotors ($41) you'll notice a hose clamp on the boot ($2) jackstands, bottle jack, and tools of assorted goodness. (over $100, and stealing some helps too.) don't forget the raptor turbo muffler. ($30 with tip and stuff.) and of course your's truly drives it like a mofo; and has the tickets to prove it. Guess that's the price you pay when you drive a fun little car. I let my friend who just got a '95 saturn two door coupe (1.9L manual, gutless, heavy car... my car would stomp him.) and he said my car was not only "cool" but also "fun, like a go-cart." he was impressed with the way subarus drive. If I coulda only gotten to be with him when he was buying his car, I think I coulda persuaded him to our side! But no, he payed $1900 for a repainted previously wrecked gutless car with starter problems. He barely turned the key in mine... and it purred. He smiled, and said "sweet dude."

Don't know if anybody really cares or not, but here are some pictures. I thought it would be neat to get some pics of it. You'll see: my 1988 Subaru EA81 Hatchback, it's engine compartment with modded emissions control system, primer over the dent in the passenger side, and the spray can 5" black racing stripes on the hood. And the odometer picture. [edit] I had placed the pictures on a friend's website via FTP, and decided to take them off after some number of viewings. So what I'm going to do is scale them down and put them on the thread. ~Jon

ok, so say I wanted 200hp out of my EA81T engine. What's the total cost of all parts? (minus shipping) This might be something I will want to do.

how much to dual port the intake and heads? dual port means a seperate port for each intake, or exhaust, or are you talking both? and how much for a 130hp grinded cam? that's how much I'm aiming for. stock EA81T is 110hp, so I figure an increase in 20hp is a good aim.

nah... better deal on the EA81T engine. less overall work.

I've heard from XT springs will drop it 2"

After some talk to a guy, it's been settled. I know what engine I'm slapping in. an EA81T. No real issues past the engine copartment beyond the fuel pump and fuel lines. Now... the deal is, should I (when I rebuilt it, because I am GOING to, it runs fine as is, but I would like to rebuild it to be sure I have EVERYTHING perfect before I run the hell out of the engine.) should I keep the EA81T engine stock, or rebore the block, and use the standard N/A carb pistons? or hey, rebore it, use the lower CR turbo pistons, increase the boost, and put in better flowing injectors? Either way, this thing will be a smooth runner when I get done with it. but, I took a look under the hood... man, this engine is freaky. I think I can handle it though.