JonOfScio

coulnd't you have just used front XT springs in the rear of your RX?

I'd never own an automatic car unless it was given to me, really expensive with a lot of value, and I could sell it the next second.

nuke sounds good. hehe. mwaahhahahaha.... uh, don't know if it's the thing to do actually. could cause trouble.

I've looked around, and I guess that's the going price. sorry dude, looks like your car's parts are rare enough that they are just that expensive.

if most of the internals of the 2.7 six pack was EA82 parts, then you could easily swap the pistons for EA82T pistons and turbo that sweet engine... (does my mind think like Caboobaroo's?)

but, calling your hatch "the baja" is kind of weird considering that subaru carries a model of truck called Baja. I'm doing something similar... a new paintjob, new interior, seats reupholstered, ect. I'm sure that the real car will look great, as the picture is a little promising (but itself looks okay) you could probably do without the "rekognize" on the side of the body.

less grief = weber (IMO) I was REALLY wanting to turbo my car (hey, who doesn't want a turbo, serisouly? and a BOV? come on, that's awesome!) But for easiness I've decided I'm going to port and polish my manifold, intake and exhaust ports, slap a weber on, and redo my entire exhaust. I think I'll be happy then.

dude, I love the shape and the exterior moldings of the older hatches. some new paint, get the rust off those wheels (maybe even repaint them) and a new interior, and you're set!

I've got a carbed EA81, and I run 92-93 octane gas at 12BTDC. used to run it at 8BTDC, and got about the same mileage I get now. I had a weird dream that my town's gas station put the gas price up to $8.38 a gallon for all three octanes. Weird huh?

I love my hatch. 'Nuff said.

Russ has it at his house, and he's checked the hill holder. The problem isn't that the pedal sticks, sure, it does... but when it does stick, you STILL cannot change gears.

my '88 is a carb! (of course it's a hatch)

Centerforce dual friction race clutch and disk... for my car, EA81 2WD, $207 + $17 for a throwout bearing. http://www.dualfriction.com

Try changing your fuel filters. I replace mine about every 6 months, because I drive it so much (about 15,000 miles in 6 months), even though I shouldn't need to, it's not a bad idea. They're only a couple bucks each. If there's a bogging sort of feeling, something like hesitation, it's probably fuel filters. Make sure your oil in your engine, and tranny is good... check your emissions hoses on your valve covers to see if they're clogged, check all other hoses, PCV valve and hose especially, air filter, and don't forget to check all of your vacuum lines. If you open the hood and there's a slight hiss sound (can be heard if the hood is open, from inside the engine compartment if the car is running) then you might look for a vacuum hose loose or off. Sometimes they fly off for no apparent reason. (they get old and don't grip as well) If you need me to, I can send you a picture or two of my engine compartment and I can draw in the picture to show you where everything is if you're not too familiar with your engine's parts.

So here's the situation. Both cables are the same length. The one from the car that is bad, doesn't move very much, and is really hard to move by hand. The one that went into the car feels like it's brand new, and looks like it's in great condition to boot. If say, the springs whatever weren't on right, and you pulled the clutch forward or pushed it back, at least it would move like it's supposed to... right? Well, it won't change gears if the car is on, if the pedal is pressed... so it's likely it's NOT a spring or something. We got it in there the same way it was installed before. The donor car did not have the spring setup, but the turbowag had an extra bracket, looks factory enough. this thing was a bitch to work on. Upside down in the foot compartment of the car, with a halogen spotlight frying your rump roast behind you in the car... in hot weather.... and your hands hurt... and things were frustrating. But I eventually got the pedal on right. Russ did most the work, but when it came to the part where you put the screws throught he clutch cable and into the car's bracket to hold it in place, I had to do it... and it sucked. I sure hope if he goes with putting the RX tranny in, he goes for a centriforce clutch kit. yeah... that's what I'll do when I get my credit card, it'll be my ONLY purchase until I have it payed off. I'll pay a little at a time to start getting credit, ya know...?

yeah, just trying to figure out if it's plausible or not. didn't say I was gung-ho for it. My second choice (the idea is to keep the NA block and heads, change pistons, cam, lifters, rods, springs, seats, valves) is to drill the heads for injectors, and adapt a throttle plate to the intake. I could use an EA82 SPFI intake and get a throttle plate from an EA82T. Basically, using the EA82 engine components except for the long block and intake. Now, I know that is feasable. Add injectors to the heads... change fuel lines, pump, ECU, add a MAF sensor, use EA82 SPFI intake, see if an EA82T throttle body won't fit the intake... use the EA82T plenum, and turbo it, BOV and turbo timer, make my own inventive oil cooler for the turbo, grab an intercooler, make my own up pipe and down pipe and exhaust. missing anything? I know I could transplant an EA82T, but this would be more FUN, and a challenge.

So, people tell me this and that, this and that, about turbos and whatnot. I'm not looking for "well, you need less CR and carbed cars don't have it." I'm talking about just the carburator itself. I really don't think anything restricts the carb from working with a turbo. Well, they put superchargers onto carburated systems, and the basic idea of the supercharger is the same as the turbo: forced air induction. you can either do draw through, or push through. So if you can put a supercharger on a carburated system, why not a turbo? The idea of the carburator is that it has venturis, and when air passes through, they create a vacuum that sucks in fuel and spits it into the intake. Alright... so, if you open up throttle, increasing air going through, then you get a bigger vacuum, pulling in more air. Then the only problem to have is that it is mixed right for air to fuel ratio. Now, you're going to need a carburator that will handle the amount of CFM of the turbo/supercharger, and jets that will be able to jet out the newer higher amount of fuel. And I do believe that jet work is more or less a trial and error process. To much, runs rich, too little, runs lean, and the latter is the worst I do believe. (holes in the pistons.... yeah baby, yeah!) So, as far as JUST the carburator goes, the venturi principle is like a build in MAF sensor on the fly. The air moving by makes the carb spit out more fuel... so... why wouldn't a turbo work? superchargers do? And another thing, if I were to do this, I would of course put in turbo pistons. (duh)

do I absolutely need the AIS system? It's only ever on for like, literally, a minute.

My outermost stud on my passenger side exhaust flange decided it wanted to take as much aluminum as it could from the part it goes in to. YAY! So, this part is NOT the head, is it? There looks like a metal line running from each side up, and I think it's the AIS system when the engine is REALLY cold, right? Can I just get a new right side one of these, and not have to worry about heli-coiling it? Around here, I'm sure I could find a soob of EA81 origin to steal this part from. Thanks. ~Jon PS: anybody else run into this problem?

I took off the silencer and put a different one on, it doesn't *really* muffle it, just makes it a deeper sound. (hollow in such a way but makes it sound lower! harley! yeah!) So, is there some way to keep the air injection for the exhaust to stay on even after it's all warmed up? It sounds WAY cool the way I have it now, I just hate that I can only hear it when the engine is cold in the morning. And if it were to be on all the time, would that be bad? ~jon

yeah, if they look under the hood I'm fairly sure if you grabbed a weber, you're screwed. And I honestly think it's your carb too. Like the other guys said, you'd smell it, if it were oil getting past the rings. You can get a rebuilt carb for (price checks right now) remanufactured hitachi is the price range of $288.99 with a core of $75.00. And a rebuilt kit runs only $23.99. So my best guess is it's your jets dying (similar to Andrew's 4x4 sedan) and you'd probably be best off if you can do it yourself, to get a kit and rebuild it yourself. Dissassemble, clean it out, and rebuild it. If not, then a newly remanufactured one from an automotive store would work. Also, the prices listed are from Shucks. http://www.partsamerica.com '87 GL VIN2, 2bbl hitachi, 1600CC, EA71 I went by the first number of your VIN, and if it's the 5, then you're car is a 1.8L EA82

Is your XT an XT Turbo? Anyhow, there's lots o' little things you could do if you were after making it zip faster along. And as for the XT being an awesome car, it's aerodynamic, low, and has it's weight distributed pretty well. My car is a light car at around 2350 pounds, but it's not flat and aerodynamic, now is it? ~jon

Shanon: what did you do to win the war? thanks

The black circular thing with two hoses running from it, one goes to a thing on the intake manifold area, and one runs to the tree that connects the PCV valve with it and turns into a smaller tube to run into your air box. But under my hood, I've rearranged the lines. The PCV valve has it's own PCV grommet and filter. I took the silencer off, so when it is warming up, it's a little throatier! What it does is, air injection to the exhaust for when there might be a chance that you have some unused fuel in your pipe... so it adds some air to hope to combust it. Andrew informed me of what it was after I asked about the black little box... it's just a silencer. MY girlfriend was like "is that what happens when you take off that silencer thingy?" I was like "hehe... yeah." "oh, great." She's not a big fan. Anyhow, try it, and listen to the car before it gets warm. It's interesting.

Hey, you live in Glendale. Groovy, add another Oregonian to the list. If you should ever need some help from a board member or two, you've got some people in portland, eugene, albany, and some other places. I say your best bet is that the knock may possibly be something to do with your oil pump. is there any driveability that changes when the knock comes around? So yeah, I say change plugs, and if that doesn't work, maybe get a new oil pump. They're like $65 to $75 depending, and you might be able to steal a decent one from a PAP or something for less.