JonOfScio

Soobme: so your saying, the ones that sucked air into the turbo and pushed the air through the carb down to the manifold didn't work as well as the ones that sucked air through the carb and through the turbo and down into the manifold? I'm trying to avoid that route for under-hood clearance issues, as well as adapter plates and crap.

There is draw through, and blow through. draw through goes through the turbine and pushes it into the engine. (between carb and manifold) while blow through pushes the air through the carburetor. I've read of *both* working on carbed cars, and yes, sandrails with edelbrocks doing draw through, and a stock V6 with a turbo doing blow through. I would do blow through myself. It's more of a space issue. some people (I need to find that page again) did do draw through on the v6 because the carb was a sidedraft. And also, I don't want to fuel inject it. Anybody can add a turbo to a FI car with a MAF sensor and correct engine management.... but it's not done very much to do the carb+turbo. If it was at all as popular as turboing a fuel injected car, I wouldn't put this post up. But yeah... I did think about going on a CIS or Megasquirt route... here was my previous thoughts. 1. EA81 shortblock and heads with an EA82 SPFI manifold. change the throttle body for one without an injector... drill the manifold for an injector in each side of the intake. (exact drilling and placement needed!) Add MAF, turbo, and engine management system. (Link, Megasquirt, CIS) 2. EA81 engine. Weber. Weber induction adapter... turbo, turbo exhaust parts. wastegate, bov, turbo timer. do some sort of intercooler setup. no computer needed. some guages would help. adjust timing and octane rating. all things that would be done to any other car... So the one I chose should be easier to manage, and would be more appealing to me, because I don't want to be like everyone else. Turboing a carb'd car sounds more fun because it's generally, NOT done. But it can be, therefore it's okay. If I get this thing accomplished, I might go for some SUB4 heads with TBi and add some turbos to that on a different car. that should be fun as well.

I'll hopefully use an EA82 turbo or a Chevy Sprint turbo.

Nothing fancy needed, you just have to make sure that the air blowing through the carb isn't more CFM than the carburetor is rated for. I've read articles online, of people who had V6 cars with carbs and a turbo. (stock) So it CAN be done. Thus, I will continue with my dream, of a Turbo'd Weber 32/36 on an EA81. (calculations show my engine at 7PSI would need 220CFM of air, the carburetor is capable of 350+CFM.) People who say "you need low compression pistons!" don't remember that in the turbo/super charger world, under 9.0:1 is considered good... and those people must remember that someone has already done an EA82-T that has 9.5:1 pistons. (Dr. RX) this'll be fun. PS: Russ, Andrew will nail your foot to the floor if you don't get my sh1t to his house and start work on my car. PSS: I'm not as anxious to get my car running as he is.

I replaced mine with a 180, and it ran great. When the radiator fan kicked on (sometimes it didn't!) it ran well and never had any problems being too cold or too hot. I suggest the 180.

now, I hope your talking about an NA car. Turbo cars don't want any backpressure, because the turbo makes it's own, and anything after that doesn't let it flow as well. But for NA cars, some cars are designed for maximum performance with good exhausts, and the cat is part of the backpressure for the engine... but for our subies, as long as you don't run HUGE exhaust without cats, it should be alright that you don't have the second one. Taking the second one out should give you a bit more performance. Not a whole lot, from what I hear, but I haven't played around with that yet.

I've got two PCV breathers with 5/8" outlets (inside it's got a foam material, and a screen mesh... catches the oil) passenger side will have another breather on it (for air) and the driver's side will go right to the PCV valve.

dude, there's a JY with a perfectly good turbo in my town (Scio, OR) and he'd let it go pretty cheap.

I've got nothing left on this beast that amounts to anything emissions except for the cats. The air injection system is completely taken off the heads. the heads are both driver's side heads, so the passenger one doesn't even have the spot for the EGR tube, then it's plugged on the manifold and the diaphraghm is closed and not active. disty has one line to the manifold, and my brake booster too. new clutch stuff... pad, pressure plate, TO bearing, ect. fuel system is still set up with send and return... oil pressure and temp sensor are the only things from my dash hooked up. (NO ECU!) can't wait until this Weberized de-emissionsified engine is back in and tearing up the neighborhood.

you could do the legacy turbo. or buy the turbo out of the turbo XT in the town I live in. (scio) he'd sell it for like, $50 or $75

if the body is straight, then $300 is good. You could either transplant a new engine or fix this one up real nice... and then the interior you could replace. put a couple hundred bucks into it and make it really nice, then sell it for just a bit more. Or fix it up and drive it like hell!

hey man, I still need my heads. I'm probably going to call about 9:00. Jon

hehe yeah, it's alot cooler looking in real life. When I get my heads back all cleaned up I might do semi-gloss black or continue with the red. (valve covers are black)

EA71 transmissions and axels are completely different EA81 and EA82 FWD transmissions are exactly the same EA81 and EA82 front axles are different, but left and rights among designation are the same EA81 rear axles are different from front axles, and are swappable between left and right. same with EA82.

new one, finished being painted

if someone wanted to really go all out, on an EA81, they could get the dual carb manifold, and put on two 38 DGEV carburetors. along with a beefy cam, with higher lift (torque cam preferred) new hydraluic lifters new evenly weighing pushrods (exact weight is preferred) new evenly weighed lightweight forged aluminum 10:1 CR pistons ($400) new/used 1600 pistons rods (handle more than the EA81s do) new hi-po valve springs, new valves... (replace all valve train basically) I'm sure if someone out there in this world did all of that with a good port and polish and sweet exhaust, they could have an evil carbureted monster. Don't forget a nice 4wd Centerforce clutch. (dual friction race clutch, lifetime warranty, kit is only about $250)

bump

I found some really sweet new engine paint. It's not advertised as such, but says that it's good for up to 500 degrees fehrenheit. I painted my manifold and some of my PCV system components with it. Later on, my block/heads will be clear coated after being cleaned, and my valve covers will be black. I'll go take a good picture of the colors goin on.

whatever funkmeister, you are drooling over Andrew's dual EA71 manifold (with non-feedback carbs)

you can't put EA82 hitachis onto an EA71 because of the bolt pattern... you'd need an adapter. EA81 and EA71 bolt patterns for the carbs are the same though... need a EA81 hitachi in good condition?

ah, I was just going off of what I heard from others.

my muffler fits just fine in place of the stock muffler. Dynatech Raptor II turbo muffler, $20 on sale from KNechts

actually, drilling the hubs is ALOT more work than people tend to think. There's more to it than aligning it and drilling... there's a lip than needs to be sanded off, and that is alot of work in itself.

I use a 2" Raptor II muffler, which is a great muffler at about $20... It's still a muffler, but makes the low end a little bit more audible and doesn't sound like a raspy glasspack. There are glasspacks out there that are pretty good on our subes, some would be: Thrush muffler Flowmaster Purple Hornies Cherry bomb See what other people have, and decide from there. Or try and catch some sound clips on the net of an interesting muffler.

of course, when I get the car running. 1 5/8" ID, 1 3/4" OD mandrel bent tube, 10 inches down, 10 inches long, 180 degree bend. going to 1 7/8" OD tubing going to a cherry bomb In 2" ID, Out 2" ID. (each side) No H- pipes, but might be able to fit in some a T on each side and a tube running between them. opinions, questions, ect. PS: Cost: $101 for flanges, tubing, mufflers, bent pieces, shipping (not including hangers) plus time welding.