JonOfScio

put a vacuum line on your secondaries actuator and suck - if it doesn't move, then there's a problem with your actuators.

I ran new wiring to my front speakers.

pimp.

I use premixed 50/50. I don't bother measuring crap.

also, you buildin up that EA81T motor? a couple bucks here or there and before you know it... seriously though... parts are cheap, 'cept for cams, saving $40 here or there can go a ways between now and when you put the engine in. New HP springs, retainers, lifters, drivetrain stuff.... I would love that motor to get one, $200 and I can grab everything I need for the swap...

2wd: 7 and 7/8" clutch disk 4wd: 8 and 7/8" clutch disk I think the turbo disk is lighter. So of course, for race applications, a really really light 8 7/8" disk would be grand. For four wheelin just grab the regular ol' heavy 4wd disk. btw - andrew (hondasucks) has my spare PP and clutch disk from my hatchback. Still got some meat left on it... he could probably use the cash if you were interested.

at about 5200 RPMS, and 11 PSI ~ 260 Hp ~ 275 Ft/Lb of torque (this for those who can't read it too well.)

yeah, this isn't a permanent situation. so If I get 6 months out of it, I'm way happy. I live in the valley. no salt.

Well, after a couple weeks of pure paranoia and a REALLY loud engine, I finally was able to make something decent of my exhaust. LOTS of work, especially considering there isn't any welding past the turn downs from the heads... Quiet. Quiet enough in the car that i can have the radio half way up and not worry about losing my bass. (When I ran true dual straight pipes I couldn't hear any bass even at all the way up before clipping) It's got this racey farrari sound to it. It's cool. 6 feet of flexible exhaust on each side converging to a home made Y pipe then going into the second catalytic converter from my old exhaust. I had to put noise suppressors on the air valve that goes to the cat. It's nice. Lots of work. Lots of time. But it runs and I'm not so worried about the cops now.

my Y pipe when I had the heat shield off would glow a little in one corner... but, I would probably say that it is clogged. Spray some O2 sensor freindly cat cleaner down your exhaust manifold (generous I would suppose) and see if it doesn't kinda clean it out. Either that or weld up a new Y pipe. I made a Y pipe using exhaust putty, and alumnium exhaust tape for under $30. (it's actually two pieces... a chrome exhaust Y tip and a piece to go over the end of the pipe to slip fit my cat.)

hehe. I don't think that would work with the setup I'm working on. my carb is going to barely fit under the hood when it's closed (and that's without the filter and cleaner box) so I'm going to *have* to cut a whole in the hood.

hm. in my hatch, for a while now (a week and a half?) I've basically had turn downs from the heads. And that was it. The neighbors are complaining and my dad isn't happy, but this new exhaust I'm making, I sure hope it works this time. I tried 2" back to cherry bombs. way too loud. I tried 3 feet of 2"OD flex pipe from each side. worked better, but the tube fell out of one side. now, I'm going for 6' of tube on each side, a specially designed Y pipe, which slip fits over my old catalytic converter. Then I'm putting my old Y pipe cat after that, and making it go back to duals. my old Y pipe had some problems but I sealed them up with putty and now I'm gonna use it to my advantage. I *may* put in a muffler between the cat and the Y cat.

There was a writeup once about a company who had a NA EA81 engine that got 200hp. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=445&highlight=RAM Anyhow, I think it is possible... but I'm still skeptical a little bit. But if it IS true that the reading came out to 283 at the wheels, then I'm still in awe of the coolness.

of course your mileage will go down (as respective towards to heaviness of your foot) but changing octanes is a good way to go. Put in some good 92 octane, and put your timing up a couple degrees. (3 to 4) I'm not sure, but I think the EA82 engines adjust their own timing?

*checkpoint* Um, I tried putting an EA82 manifold on my EA81 engine. I had a couple of problems... the car I was getting the manifold/carb from was a FWD EA82... which means, it was an electronically controlled carb. If I REALLY wanted to keep this carburetor, I should have grabbed the ECU too. But most importantly, there are some issues with the distributor and the water jacket being in the way, the EGR valve, and of course, the water pipe in the back of the manifold wants to ride on the lip of the block in the back. so that has to be ground down (or I could be wrong) But trying to put this damn thing on is what screwed my up in the first place... I crossthreaded a screw. But yeah, it's quite a bit bigger on the carb mount opening...

in theory, it should... The idea of the DGEV series having to be turned because of the choke, makes it seem like the DF(EV/AV) wouldn't need to be turned because they *have* the choke on the other side.

this is awesome. :D

well, actually... it was like $25 for the rebuild kit. But it had everything, not just gaskets... accelerator pump, power valve, everything I need. and chemtool... MAN, it's expensive. $20 for a gallon? That's crap. So right now various parts are soaking. Later today I get to use my grandpa's garage, and I'm calling the garage my home. For a while.

ah skeet.... your edeavours into the subaru world haven't been all that fun have they? maybe you might find some enjoyment from the work you're about to do.

as far as the distributor, you don't NEED to swap it out. The 2wd disty has a better curve to it anyway, some people go out to find them and swap these into their cars because they get better power from it. and yeah... if it's EA81, it'll swap fine. You won't even need to take the PS from 85, unless you REALLY wanted to convert your 82 to work with PS. Motorcrafts and holleys are EASY. This one is a little funny, but if you opened it up you'd know immediately what is what and all that's going on.

otherwise known as a "weber made by holley", it *would* be called a 32/36 DGAV. (the one I got from a ford ranger 2.3L) it was jetted correctly. (for our little subies!) For a second I thought you were talking about a holley two barrel, the Holley 2300, on some fords. I was like "Hey! two barrel! yeah!! That's what I'm doing!"

yup... hatchbacks came until 89, last year they got put in the USA. I have an 88. undoubtedly, your car is near exactly the same as mine. It is possible to get a hatch tail/fin from any wagon/hatchback equipped with one, I think unless your willing to fabricate something up yourself, that's pretty much your only option. As for the engine, you could find an EA82 SPFI car, take the pump, ECU, fuel lines, manifold, ect. and swap it over onto your engine--> EA81 NA Carbed. There is some funny business with the distributor I've heard, but oh well... it IS a possibility. Or you could do something a little easier... like change the carb over to something that is a TBI carb, put in an engine management system of some kind, and put in a high PSI pump with a regulator in the front... this way, you get SPFI, keep your same manifold/fuel lines, and yeah... Of course, with enough thought and an inventive enough mine, you can do anything.

Got paid today. Need to make up a new complete exhaust. Which is the hard part. Any suggestions? Then I'm also going to rebuild my Motorcraft 2100, and slap it on my hatch. Rebuild kit: $12. Cost of weber 32/36 adapter $40. Cost of holley/ford 2bbl to weber adapter: $5 (used from a 2.3L ranger) cost to cut my hood: not much. 9" chrome air filter cleaner: $20. So for about $77, I don't think it's that bad of a cost. Only weird thing will be I'll need to grab a new accelerator cable, and find some inventive way to mount the cable... because the carb will be sideways. this should be alot of fun. edit: forgot, I'll need some new spark plugs... and I might need some new jets depending... who knows, it might be jetted right from the get go.

when you changed your engine from SPFI to carb, did you remember to change the pump? or get a FPR?

what 'in Hg' does it open up at? anybody know? 5.5Hg? 6.5Hg? thanks for anybody who knows (doubtfully, not very many)