JonOfScio

Yeah, I cut out a larger portion of the bottom of the box... I'm not too worried about that myself, as I don't rally it (yet) and this is only something I'm doing for the time being until I can manage to grab a cone filter and make myself a mount.

The engine will drop in, and the tranny will perfectly work... I think you can still reuse your driveshaft from your automatic tranny (assuming both applications are AWD) the wiring harness shouldn't be too hard. I looked at mine the other day and was thinking "this is cakewalk." If you were near me I'd help you with the ECU stuff just cuz I'm a nice guy. But I live on the west coast US. heh. Also... mark tape around all of the connections from the front cut, with codes. like A1, A2 (if they are connectors of the same shape) and then go to B1 and B2 for connectors that are the same shape but different than the A(s) shape. Mark on both sides (ECU side and engine side) with a piece of tape and the same code. that way when you disconnect everything, you know what it connects to. Even if it's electrical wiring. ANY single wire in your compartment that touches something on the engine or an ine necessity part, put tape on it and say on it where it goes... or whatever. like a ground you would put on your tape "GND to fenderwell" like I have one down there. Not too confusing was I?

I took the silencer out (yay!) and put many a hole in the bottom of my airbox (yes, the bottom and sides so that it gets way more air and does not pass the filter) reminding me of the cheese I use on my grilled cheese and ham sandwhiches.... mmmm.... we noticed a dead bird (bones, feathers, ect.) inside under the lining of the fender well... that was fun! Improvements: 1. Low end now exists (more torque) 2. Faster car overall 3. makes for better launches 4. makes for better sharp corner turning whippin that rump roast around. 5. ricy intake sound at WOT (good because it's not there ALL the time) So yeah, I say it's definately noticeable improvement (I use an OEM subaru filter) and it's worth every minute of work. I have a '95 legacy, so it's a little more work than an earlier gen.

NOS isn't *bad*, normal engines are bad *for* NOS. Some engines have to be built around it to provide the right platform for that use (just like high Hp NA engines and turbo engines need to be built around the NA or Turbo theory) I have a friend with a pretty stock VW Scirocco that has run over $500 of 50cc of nitrous. Some engines are way underpowered and unexplored territory (scirocco) and some engines are running stock, pretty high in the maximum efficiency area (Honda) and so therefore those engines die from a serious (or a couple) hits of NOS. an engine that is at 10% of it's max efficiency that runs NOS and doubles it's efficiency is still 80% underpowered. If you have a car that is 65% out of a 100% efficient and you put NOS on it, you cannot run your engine to be 130% efficient, the engine will die. Talking to the Scirocco dude seriously taught me some stuff about the older, cooler, VWs and how NOS works in them.

yeah, bursts of "up to" 20PSI, didn't say for how long though. 15 seconds of about 6.5PSI I think I remember the article saying. 15 seconds use for every twenty minutes of charging doesn't sound like it's really all that great to me (IMO) Sounds like it would work, and I'm pretty sure from what I've read and the pictures I've looked at that it would, but it's more cost efficient AND the weight issue is better with a turbo setup.

N/A EJ22 engines should swap from car to car without requiring to change the ECU. I'm pretty sure anyhow, but don't make it written law or anything.

Mudrat down in euge said he'd make up a front Y pipe header for $100. Sounds good to me. I'm sure he does good work, I've never heard anybody complain... It won't be a really awesomely tuned header, but 1) it will be better than what I've got, 2) won't cost an arm and a leg, 3) is less than the OEM one, 4) is better than screwing with my car and trying to punch the cat out all day.

sounds like a good price. is it AWD? I bought the one in my sig for $400 less, and it is AWD, and has a rebuilt motor. Only mechanical problems are the clutch needs to be replaced and the front Y pipe cat is bad. oh well. Sounds like you got a good price, hope the interior/exterior is good too. And the GT... mmm... has the spoiler *and* the hood scoop right? Then there are the GT wheels. Stuff like good oil, engine, transmission, and dif, will help alot. I will never run cheap (cheaply made) oils in my car(s).

long story short, there are metal chunks inside flying around... hehe. Can I possibly pull off the manifold and punch it out? And would my O2 sensor work correctly without the cat? would it *harm* the functioning of my car? anyhow, I would like to replace the manifold with a header, but you know, that costs money, and I'm poor.

http://www.rallitek.com has the grill, front bumper, rear bumper, and side skirts to make the legacies look like WRC cars. Like the first picture on the board. I think total, for all four parts, is around $1000. I'm not sure.

yeah, I've been trying to find one myself. Is it not possible to buy the wing for the impreza, and put it on the rear deck of your trunk? Aren't the impreza and legacy trunks *about* the same? Oh well. If you lived 'round these parts there are legacies where I work that are in your price range. (I work at a dealership)

I've used Castrol High Mileage 20w50 with half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (good additive) in my hatchback, and this was probably the best running point of the engine so long as I've had it.

You would run into lean-out conditions unless you changed your ECU. You would need a turbo ECU of some kind, I wouldn't say you would exactly need an EJ20T ECU, but I'm not sure if any other displacement engines' ECUs would swap back and forth.

Although it pulls hard to six grand, I timed it by my stopwatch (not incredibly accurate, but better than nothing) on a completely desolate straight stretch this morning (when it was nice out!) (btw - 3,500rpms in fourth gear is 60mph, and 3,500rpms in fifth is 80mph) 0 - 60 was about ten seconds quarter mile was about 17.5 seconds, don't remember the speed. think it was 85 or so. pretty cool for a guy who used to drive a hatchback with one half dead cylinder, a blown exhaust that made it sound like a hopped up helicopter, and a bad carburetor. the fastest so far I've gone in it was 90, I'm not looking at trying to get myself killed or arrested, but here or there on empty straight roads won't hurt anybody.

*bump*

If you were to check out an engine, and you didn't know what heads were on it, how would you tell what generation and or L the heads are? I know some swap over from engine to engine, but I'm just curious to know if they have visible outer markings or not to differ them. If sitting side by side, how would you tell? Thanks. (PS: I'm trying to find out what my EJ22 is made of. the block says EJ22, but I don't think it's all stock. I think it's altered. It hauls TOO much rump roast. It is REBUILT, 100% for sure.)

depends on which 2.2L you have. Early legacies and MOST 2.2s are 130hp, the EJ22e, which was originally stock in my Legacy is rated at 135hp. big whoop... but... as I'm finding out, there are soooo many different configurations of the engines. The EJ22e is desireable because it has forged internals. (9.5:1 CR, and you can turbo or super it, but it requires higher and higher octane and more and more intercooling the higher the boost)

'97 was the last year for FWD. I was reading an article on it from a subaru guru. (he could be wrong) Something interesting is that it is not a crate engine, it is a rebuilt EJ22. But I don't know *what* model. Originally, it came with an EJ22e, but I don't know what's in there now. And don't the EJ20 heads bolt right on to EJ22 block? Is it possible it could have been rebuilt with EJ20 heads? It runs great, and idles real strong, (clutch is bad though) and exhaust sounds good (but I know the first cat is bad, chunks flying around make noise when you rev high) and there are no leaks. Interior is good, all of the dash and paneling is in good condition, as well as the exterior has no apparent dents or scratches. I think I got a pretty good deal on a good car. I'm a little upset that I need to replace the clutch sometime soon, but I think if I baby it I can get at LEAST another couple of months.

I said it as a joke.... wasn't trying to be mean. sorry!

yeah, I need a new clutch sometime soon. also, my first cat kinda rattles of something bouncing around inside, so I need to replace that somehow too. (Can you say Borla cat-back for $399?)

Well, there are no AWD badges on her, she's dark red, and a good four door legacy. 5 speed manual. Here's what I do and don't know... the VIN and all vehicle codes show it as being (or should be) a FWD manual. Well, it's not. It's an AWD 5 speed manual. One look under the car shows a driveline, diff, and some hardly-used-cherry-looking axles. The engine is NOT the original EJ22E. It IS, however, a completely rebuilt EJ22. There are codes in yellow paint and stuff all over different parts of the engine. (manifold, timing belt covers, ect.) plus, it's TOO clean. Like, yeah, pressure washing with hot water is great, but this is clean in spots pressure washing wouldn't really get THAT clean. anyhow, I got an AWD '95 Legacy in great condition (needs pads and a new clutch) for $3999, with 14% interest (I'm 19 and have no credit) on a three year, I'm paying $126 a month. With my insurance on full coverage, I pay $154. (road side + car renter's insurance) So for $290 a month, I'm fully insured and owning a nice pimpin legacy. everything works, A/C, cruise (I love CC), the 80w tape deck, and has the tan velour interior. no power seats or sliding roof. no hood scoop or spoiler. you know it's a REAL subaru when the genuine stock factory deck half works. None of the bottom buttons work, nothing lights up, but tuning, volume, and equilizing options work. Anyhow, any way to tell if it's a crate engine or if it was rebuilt from parts? Runs strong, need a good clutch to really test it. Idles at 700RPM strong! (cold or warm) gotta love getting away from carbs...

haha... you got laughed at by some japs.

It is easier to pull the engine... there's generally, less work. (NA cars at least)

I've had my EA81 hatchback for a while now, and I've rebuilt the engine, did a clutch job, done axles, fuel pump, stuff like that. If I needed to, for some reason, would it be hard at all to work on this engine? (like, cam replacement) Is it hard to pull? replace heads? do exhaust work? thanks

I'm going for this because I can get a good discount, and there are lots of company perks that add into this. (warranty, financing, service, ect.) I couldn't finance $5.5k with no down payment from anywhere but work. sorry.