JonOfScio

sweet deal. so, seems like less work than I had previously thought. but what about engine mounts, isn't there some relocation work involved there?

sounds like a good engine coming together. Would like to see pics of the exhaust, heck of the engine, when finished. Good job.

it is possible. I forget who it is, but there's a person on the boards with an XT6 motor in his brat. I've heard of EJ20 and EJ22 swaps, so it should be possible for the RX. (especially because the EA82 engine compartment is larger and wider than EA81. If someone can put it in a brat that is EA81, it can be done.) Also, the XT6 motor uses EA82 technology for the driveline. you could swap in a XT6 motor and tranny no problem, but you would have to (i'm pretty sure) make new locations for your engine mounts, plus move the tranny mounts up farther. That's the difference between the XT and the XT6... the tranny is mounted closer towards the front (It's either towards the front or towards the back)

I had a Raptor Turbo muffler, it was great. Untill I redid my exhaust. Works good. Less backpressure, a little deeper exhaust, not enough to scare anything or make the neighbors annoyed.

probably the easiest.

test your pressure from your fuel pump. also, take a look at your float. It may be adjusted incorrectly or have moved a little over time.

a rebuild kit is only like $30 or $35, so I would suggest this route. If it comes with a new float, great, if it doesn't use your old one and adjust it to specs. Also, there could be more problems that *just* your carb. go to where your fuel pump is and make sure that you didn't hurt it or anything else around there.

Weber makes a fuel pump P/N#: 99009-131 6 PSI, 25GPH. Requires pressure regulator. (of course it does) They make other models of fuel pumps, but this is the most reasonable one for our engines.

I guess my chilton book must be wrong. I would think to trust the FSM over a chilton anyways.

oh yeah, I'm not completely fkceud, I have a spare block with my old heads at andrew's house. I can rip out that oil pump and steal the plate. Reuse my actual pump and cylinder. good idea. my old pump was going strong at the right PSI anyway.

Are oil pumps between the 1600 and 1800 (OHV or OHC) different? I know there are two models for the 1800 OHV, but they can be swapped back and forth. Is it possible to snag something from another engine and assimilate it? thanks.

well, either way, from math, we have figured out that it is at least probably a 9.0:1 CR for the 1600 piston swap. But, the manual shows the the engine I thought was mine (and is actually the EA82 carb engine) that the compression ratio is 9.5:1, which also coincides with the SPFI pistons. Now to get someone to verify this.

So, I'm unbolting the oil pump, and I go to pry it off. the oil pump is built like this, the pump, a cylinder, and a cover. The cover broke into four pieces. One piece is still left attached to the block, like it's welded there. It's covering it just enough that the cylinder won't come out. So the oil pump won't completely come off intill I figure out how to get the rest of the oil pump cover off the block of my engine. It's not so bad that I killed the pump... I can get one from the EA81T wagon and rebuild it and put it in... but, the bad thing is that, it's frustrating. I shouldn't have this much trouble with my car. Maybe I put too much sealer on and put it on too tight. I don't know. This is frustrating.

um, I was incorrect in reading the stupid manual. It doesn't cover any of the EA81 engines past '84 at all... what I was reading was actually EA82 Carbureted engine stuff. It doesn't even come up with engine designation codes or OHV/OHC designations anywhere in the book... And in '83 the Automatic EA81s had the '85+ hydraulic motors! It says that in there. As for 1600 pistons, It says they are 9.0:1 in the 1600 motor. So I think we need someone to measure it up when they go about putting them in a EA81 block. It could be either way about the distance relationship of the rods/pistons and the heads. But it's interesting to find that the manual covers the EA82 NA Carbed engine has 9.5:1 pistons. (which is what I was misreading as my engine) There was only four engine listings for 85-87, and that was for SPFI, 2bbl, turbo, and the 1.2L Justy engine.

Got a new chilton today - gonna adjust my valves today, rebuild my oil pump, replace my front crank seal, and oil pan gasket.

I was reading through a chilton, when to my astonishment, I read up on some things. 80-82: 1800 - 72hp, 92 ft/lbs of torque, 8.7:1 CR 83-84: 1800 - 73hp, 94 ft/lbs of torque, 8.7:1 CR 85-87: 1800 - 82hp, 103 ft/lbs of torque, 9.5:1 CR So, we know that the 85+ 1800s have bigger valves, and hydraulic lifters, as the earier versions have smaller valves and mechanical lifters. (there was once upon a time a rebuild kit for the mechanical lifter engines to convert them to hydraulic, genuine subaru even!) So, with the difference of 9.5:1 compression pistons, hydraulic lifters, and bigger valves, my car (was) 9hp, and 9 ft/lbs of torque over the stock older 1800s. NOTE: This also means that persons running pre '85 1800s only need change engines instead of adding 1600 pistons. Some say you get 9.5:1 CR with 1600 pistons, and I think I recall hearing from somewhere 9.7:1. -- So if 1600 pistons actually only get you away with 9.5:1 then there is no reason why someone couldn't grab an 85 or newer hatch motor instead of the hassle of swapping pistons!

cylinders two and four were normal and 1 was completely black minus the electrode and metal parts that spark. two was a little dark grey. one was probably black from the 'oil in the cylinder' idea. will check valves later today.

yeah - big muscle cars are fun, but who has suped up subarus? Seems like everyone and there mother has seen *tons* of hopped up small blocks and v8s, but what about those 80s subarus?

ok, well, when I go to take the pulley off to replace the crank oil seal I'll take off that valve cover and see what's going on.

sounds like fun. the more subarus together at one time the better. that's why I like Hondasucks house so much, there's so much variety to look at.

yeah buddy, turbo hatch all the way. I salute to you with my Coca-cola. PS: Which IMHO is way worse than beer for your body to digest.

Rally. Lift it, put a good engine in it, and run it around like nobody's business.

nope, played with them and they were closed. (the spring was out all the way)

but, I have hydraulic lifters, why would I need to check my valves?

I would suggest draining your radiator, and disconnecting the top hose. This is the one that goes directly to your manifold. you might as well just pull the manifold off and take a good look at it to get familiar with it before you put it back on. Replace both seals just to be safe. USE PBlaster to get those bolts off, don't run into what I did. A broken bolt. use some red high temp RTV silicone to seal it. Make sure BOTH surfaces (manifold and head) are COMPLETELY clean, shiney, and rid of cardboardy gasket material before applying a new one. Torxxx - it was probably me, I've gotten to know my EA81 and EA82 manifolds pretty good from when I tried (and failed horribly) to do a swap on my EA81 engine. first things first, be glad you have an EA82 manifold. The carb mount has way bigger open surface area than the EA81. Bigger is better for flow. You can get a weber adapter for it, and put on a 32/36 or even a 38DGAS. (38/38 instead of 32/36) or get a weber to holley/two barrel adapter and put on a holley 2300, a 350cfm two barrel. I would suggest this one if you wanted a huge carb because the jets aren't too expensive: a jet kit runs $30 and has a ton of jets. Or, put on a two barrel to four barrel adapter and you're choices of four barrels has quadrupeled from the two barrel. secondly, if you want, you could stay with hitachi. Go out, find an EA82 4wd carbureted car. Grab the carb. Switch the secondary jet to one from a 2wd EA82 car. at idle and cruising speeds you'll have an ECU-less great mileage. At WOT, you'll get great power, but a really crappy gas mileage. The FWD carbs have ECU stuff. And yeah, Carbs are bad, but it's what I have to deal with until I get or make my car FI somehow.