JonOfScio

I'll tell andrew, and russ, and maybe the three of us, or Josh and Kit (EA81 four door and EA82 four door sedans) could make the run.

rallitek has some stuff, but you're looking at $$$.

so then, list your mods on your engine. we know you have cams, but what else about the engine? just curious. I suppose it is possible that you might have gotten away if he wasn't a good driver and had too much done to his car that he actually lost power.

Well, looks like I've got this loan coming through (today I'll 100% know for sure) I owe my father for past months of rent (yeah, I know... it sucks. who rents their house to their kids when they still live there?) and I'll be able to pay him off in a lump sum. That with about an extra lump sum will allow me to do my clutch + get a good flywheel. My rear main I think is leaking all over it. Because I don't feel like doing it over a weekend, nor do I think I will be able to get it done over one weekend by myself or with friends, I'm going to let them do it at work. Shop rate after my discount is $70 an hour, and so it's like 4.7 hrs job. ($329) along with my new lightened 12lb exedy flywheel ($480 shipped) and the clutch kit, which I still haven't decided on. if anybody (richie rich?) *_knows_* they can get it done in one day, like, on this next coming saturday, and wants to compete in price of my shop's rate, send me a message. That, along with a lightened crank pulley, and some alloy 15" 6 spoke outback wheels, I think I'll be doing pretty well!

We figure that for (what we paid) we got a good deal on an EA82T engine, dual range 5 speed tranny, and the near cherry rally wheels. Anything else that comes off that car, is basically going on the boards. We hope to strip the car down as much as we can and possibly make back what we paid for the whole car! (when I say we, I mean, I'm helping because I figure it's fun and I miss wrenching. I didn't pay for any of it.)

DAAAAAMMMMNNNN.... that is SO the motor I want. or a 22B. mmmm....

you could put whatever EJ series engine (except the 1.3L justy engine) in there but you would need to do an ECU swap as well. I say, go for an EJ22T or the JDM EJ20TT they sell. You could get one off ebay (front cut) for under a couple grand, and you'd have the transmission to go with the engine and wiring harness and ecu. but yeah, you could make it into a great rally car as far as the mechanical abilities are concerened. A good driver makes a bad car look better than a bad driver driving a good car. Not saying a gen one legacy is bad. I't all about skill.

well, it was a '99 Legacy Wagon... I thought it was an outback station wagon, but it's actually a legacy outback. evidentally the OBSWs are pretty heavy?

Drive my car around some corners hard, and tell me when you punch it that it's not an limited slip. Why then does it bark my tires around even small corners so much?

Well, check out www.rallitek.com for parts for both cars. Easiest things to do are of course exhaust work, even something simple like changing the manifold to a header (Borla is carried on rallitek) Now, if either of your subes are automatic, that could be one thing that would make a sure difference in feel of power. Subaru trannies aren't known for having a good transfer of power. Typically, most transmissions that are manual, carry over between 70 to 80 percent of flywheel power to the wheels. I think the typical manual (5 speed AWD) carries about 74% efficiency to the wheels. Most automatic trannies (NOT clutchless manuals, true automatics with torque converters) are about 50%!! So you're 165hp 2.5L engine could put down either between 82hp (estimate) to 122hp (on averages) just because of the type of tranny. A stock 2.2L with a manual puts down about 100hp to the wheels from a 135hp flywheel. To get more power to the ground, you can change your crank pulley, and flywheel. Lightening engine components puts more Hp to the ground. I think, I calculated it out, that the Perrin lightweight pulley and Exedy lightened flywheel would combine out to about 17hp gain. (flywheel hp) Cold air works pretty well for both cars, but you have to deal with the WOT sound of it sucking in air. Which to me, is a cool sound, so I'm not too bothered. Once again, you can check out www.rallitek.com Or you can do the cheaper method and cut the bottom of your airbox out and remove your silencer. The silencer tubing is way smaller than the intake tubing, thus it is a restriction. hope all of this bantering helps in some way.

He had (heard from another person, couldn't get him to pull over and talk more than he did at the stoplioghts) exhaust - gutted cats, but from the back it looked like a muffler change+tip too. Short ram intake wheels so anyhow, my car, which has the latest made subaru maf sensor available, a diamond coil-pack, bosch platinum plugs, OEM wires, LSDs front and rear, airbox cut mod, and a bad front cat. reset my ECU yesterday and had fun running it around. Anyhow, from a couple stop lights, I basically was less than a foot from his bumper. (of course he was in the other lane) Although he could have done better if he learned how to launch properly! We didn't get into the higher gears because we were in town, so we only got to see to what 50 is like. For going against a Phase I 2.5GT outback, do you think I did well? Manual 5 speed in both cars.

check your MAF. unplug it. if nothing changes after a minute or two of just idling, then you know you might want to try borrowing a good one or replacing it.

well, here's a good lesson if it doesn't work out for you: warranties! Nothing better than a warranty FROM a dealer on a dealer product. He might be wrong, but I think that most of the time most people can tell when sales people are talkin what they know or not.

oh... yeah huh?

I work for Volkswagen at a dealership. We see Audis accasionally, and yeah, they are made by the same parent company, so they are both bound to have some of the same situations. (electrical) Although some audis are REALLY nice as far as interior, colors, engine performance, they just have problems (just like VW) and so I'll never own one. Speaking of which though, I drive nice cars all day. And when the day ends and I slip into my legacy (95) I feel more at home than in those GM or VW cars I drive. I need a new seat though, it's 145k old and is worn out.

I need to grab pictures, but it's an RS wing from a black impreza, and it is going on my dark red '95 Legacy. This is actually, IMO, going to look different, and still pretty good. The black should compliment the car. What I need now is a black hood scoop and maybe some black painted lighter weight rims. I'll get pictures as soon as possible.

Dude, you've got an '84 EA81T engine? it would cost you less time to build that up to get about the same power as a EJ22 (135hp) but the EJ22 would be more reliable N/A power. Plus, there are purists out there who would MURDER you for taking an EA81T out of a turbo brat.

I for a while had a 9" chrome air cleaner adapted onto my hitachi.

What stops me from using one (or two!) RHB5 EA82 turbos and making up a new exhaust, and piggybacking an ECU into my system? (possibly injectors as well) What is the difference between a pre '94 Legacy turbo and an EA82 turbo? thanks BTW - my block is from a '95 Legacy, is it closed deck or open?

I was talking to the top salesman at Capitol Subaru in salem, and even HE knows mudrat. Was like "yeah! he's got that lifted hatch! he's a cool guy."

Well, I've talked to lots of people, and syn seems the way to go... but as for regular dino oil, check out http://www.amsoil.com they have a comparison chart of all the different types of oils and how they work (in comparison to amsoil) but remember Mobil 1 is really espensive, and Amsoil is harder to obtain, but I don't think it'll be cheaper at all.

oh, and for those who don't know, a JDM EJ20TT runs 280Hp.

Well, you would probably want lower compression pistons, probably some good turbo cams, but if you really didn't want to touch your internals, you would need all of these: Turbo ECU from a turbo car (WRX) *or* an aftermarket ECU because you're current NA ECU will have a fuel cut off, and when you get boost, you will need more gas than the pump will give. (lean out) Possibly some higher flowing injectors, I don't know if EJ22 N/A and EJ22T cars use the same injectors or not. turbo, intercooler, an oil cooler is a GOOD idea too. What you would spend on the parts and everything to convert, you might as well buy an EJ20TT JDM engine off EBAY. A 2.0L DOHC jap engine with two turbos... I've seen them go as much as $1500 and as low as $900.

Yeah, I cut out a larger portion of the bottom of the box... I'm not too worried about that myself, as I don't rally it (yet) and this is only something I'm doing for the time being until I can manage to grab a cone filter and make myself a mount.

The engine will drop in, and the tranny will perfectly work... I think you can still reuse your driveshaft from your automatic tranny (assuming both applications are AWD) the wiring harness shouldn't be too hard. I looked at mine the other day and was thinking "this is cakewalk." If you were near me I'd help you with the ECU stuff just cuz I'm a nice guy. But I live on the west coast US. heh. Also... mark tape around all of the connections from the front cut, with codes. like A1, A2 (if they are connectors of the same shape) and then go to B1 and B2 for connectors that are the same shape but different than the A(s) shape. Mark on both sides (ECU side and engine side) with a piece of tape and the same code. that way when you disconnect everything, you know what it connects to. Even if it's electrical wiring. ANY single wire in your compartment that touches something on the engine or an ine necessity part, put tape on it and say on it where it goes... or whatever. like a ground you would put on your tape "GND to fenderwell" like I have one down there. Not too confusing was I?