JonOfScio

what about msd, anybody put msd on their EA71/81/82? (they do have a disty for those blocks don't they?)

I don't know if in '84 they had feedback carbs at all yet... but the from what I remember, 4WD do not and 2WD do... but the way to know at that year is to check under the hood. if you've got a couple solenoids, tons of vacuum lines, and an o2 sensor in the Y part of the cat... it's definately feedback.

does the justy being an EJ type motor bolt up to any old EJ tranny? (ie: legacy 5 speed! 4.11 rear end... awd... ooooo) justy also has a 78mm bore and 83mm stroke... unusual for subaru huh? they like bigger bore and smaller stroke... ie: 92mm bore and 67mm stroke.

mwahaha. I'm still dying to know those measurements... trying to find... no luck...

yeah... I like the EA82 because it's like you said, a little more simpler... but for a performance stand point, EJ motors have more available. That's why I need those measurments... to see if I can't get an idea or two that might put an EA motor into some good power figures and still be reliable. And cheap/cost effective too.

whoa, hey now, no reason for that sort of talk... but hey, since you've mentioned it, tell me why you love the EA82 more. I like all the three major variations for different reasons... EA81/EA82 and the EJ motors.

hey man... that's cool and all, but I really am interested in the previously mentioned measurments... I can't exactly reveal *why* yet... but I NEED them... but hey, WJM, since you're probably at least going to view this post once more, would you be interested in hearing about a cool idea for a long rod EJ hybrid? If so, just PM me and I'll divulge on some EJ specs I'm still oogling.

I've already researched basically all I can in the differences of the USDM and JDM subaru EJ2x pistons and how different they are in all areas... This being for the EA81/EA82 motor, that as far as I know has the same bore/stroke but may have a different wristpin offset and rod ratio. What I want to know is what the deck height measurement is, piston deck, wristpin offset (I think is 32mm on EA81 motors?) and of course a confirmation on bore and stroke. Oh, and size of the wrist pin as well as the length of the connecting rod. I've been searching the forums... but it doesn't seem I can find the good stuff I need. Thanks all.

that's something I noticed when the clutch was replaced in my car ('95 legacy, awd)... I took the old worn disc out and measured it up to a clutch from one of hondasucks' spare EA82 motors... put it on the shaft and it all looked good. I don't think I posted anything about that. About drilling/modifying a flywheel... do you want to risk not doing it right? what about hotspots? or uneven, ect. and it not being balanced? what if you take too much off and the centrifugal force tears it apart? Maybe these worries are too much... lol. but a flywheel shattering would be f'ckin AWESOME! I think someone should side by side compare the flywheels by look, weight, and material.

grab a book that carries all the torque specs for the bolts, rods, ect. and internals of your motor. you'll do fine if you've got a mechanical mind... the hardest things in my mind on subie motors are the vacuum hoses... but there are those who know their sh1t when it comes to that. and just for reassurance, maybe go to a car parts place and pickup a good "how to rebuild engines" book. something that seems in depth. I've never torn into a subie motor as far as splitting the block, but I can't imagine it's more difficult than some of the ************ I've done on other people's cars!

so where you going to have it vent to? where on the manifold will it be mounted at?

Word.

sup funky? hey man, give me a ring. 503-585-1997 or 503-881-4878! DO IT NOW!

getting 250hp at the wheels from an n/a motor means he's pushing nascar equivalent output from his motor - and probably would have as much into the motor as his car is worth. driveability would be a problem. you *could* turbo your block... but I'm not sure if 2001 outbacks had the phase II EJ25 or not... (I think they did) but I'm not sure if that motor came with forged internals or what... but the 10:1 CR of that motor means trouble if you don't have a way to adjust your timing and such. It would actually be easiest just to get a JDM 2.0L longblock... doesn't really matter what year a wrx or legacy it's from... and then do the ecu swap. which of course is the *************** in the deal. but in either case of turbo you're still spending lots of money. try to figure out a way to trade your outback for a USDM wrx sedan or wagon and have reasonable payments. We were going to trade my '95 Legacy and my g/f's '96 S10 in for a 2003 2.5RS. If we could have been financed (credit issues) we could have had that $16k car for $200 a month! A couple I know up in p-town area got a 2002 sonic yellow wrx for just over 16k. it was a steal though. but if you'ved amassed love for your particular subie, and the costs of turbo seem too much, putting a lightened pulley set and good headers on should give you more performance without too much cost. and you could always keep adding things to it as your income allows... cams, ecu ad ons, ect.

What about my friend's '93 L four door impreza? it's a five speed, AWD, and had the EJ18? (as far as the no-five-speed comment) Maybe it's just rare to find them. Maybe it was a conversion, but I doubt it... it was all completely stock outside of that... looked like some grandma owned it. or maybe he was wrong about the year? I didn't check it myself.

I think you guys might need to rethink your auto/manual spline count issue... I grabbed a front axle from a '83 turbo wagon and put it into my 5mt FWD hatch and it worked perfectly fine, so whatever spline count my '88 hatch was, so was the 3AT turbo wagon.

kelly, first one does all the work. the second just monitors the cat to see if it's working correctly. if it's not inspec it will just default the motor to run lean. it's important to run correctly as well. replace them both if you can manage it. also, our exhaust manifolds tend to crack after alot of use and many miles... like mine has a slight leak, so it's altering the o2 sensor reading, not enough to throw a code, but enough to only be getting 24mpg on a motor that I used to get 30mpg out of!

with the older vehicles, I don't see why you couldn't fit a legacy radiator, they don't look much bigger than the EA81/EA82 radiators, and there's tons of room in front of those motors, but I don't know about in the EA82 cars. mounting would be easy of course, just make new mount spots in your radiator support beam. I guess the issue would be clearance and space.

that could be true on the coolant flow efficiency, ect. but he keeps swearing by polishing water jackets and ports. course, he's a crotchety old man who keeps retelling the same stories of when he worked this or that. at least the stories never change, lol.

the carb block is 8.7:1 I do believe, and the SPFI block is 9.5:1, but other than the piston change, I do believe they are completely the same. The heads I do believe are identical. I know the intake manifold matches up and so does the exhaust, but I'm not sure on the internals, like, valves ect. I suppose they are the same but I can't say for certain. if you just swap the block itself, you're looking at a fuel mileage drop going from 9.5:1 down to 8.7:1. but not by much.

One guy I work with used to work in the pit, work on the motors, in some drag cars, ect. and says for optimum cooling, smoothing out the water jackets actually creates better flow. less friction inside means less percentage of the heat the water obsorbed resulting from friction, so more heat can be exhanged to the water as it passes in the ports from the warm block. evidentally there's a process you can do to a block to acid dip the water jackets to get them to flow real well.

So one of my good friends just bought a brand new '05 Legacy GT limited with all the options. heated seats, sliding roof, spoiler, dual exhaust, 250hp 2.5L turbo motor, ect. it makes me go... "oh, I wish my legacy was this nice." It plants you in the seat very well. He's a honda-boy converted. It's a big thing to go from a stock hatchback to a '05 legacy. anyhow, for those who are wondering, I think they are well worth the money. in comparison to other vehicle makes and models, my friend compared the top of the line legacy next to bmws. if you wanted one with similar features, it would be $6,000 more. I work at a dealership that carries vw, and looking at them, with all the features he got, you'd be paying about $4,000 more for a passat with similar features. (and less hp, less gas mileage) he pays about $371 a month. had no down payment at all. 72 month loan. the new legacys, his as an example, weighs 3100lbs dry curb weight. less than my '95! on another note, a coworker bought an '04 EVO VIII at invoice for $28,000. I don't remember what MSRP is on the '04 EVO 8, but, comparing MSRP of the two vehicles, I'd still much rather have the sube even if the evo was much cheaper.

I'm afraid the shape of the piston (ie: wristpin location) and overall height of the piston may be completely different. it would cost you as much to get new custom rods made as new pistons... so... send your pistons out to a custom shop (paeco, ect.) and ask if they can make it at 99.5mm or (whathaveyou). There are shops that will bore out, and resleeve a 4cyl engine for ~$900. one company I heard of does hondas for $900 and warranties them. by all means, if you can find a place that's noteable as far as quality of work and is less expensive, that's a no brainer. so if you've got about $450+ for pistons and ~$900 for a warrantied resleeved bored out block, you could manage it I think.... but, remember that you're taking 3.75mm out of the block's wall thickness. so, you're going to want better cooling... maybe polishing the water ports/jackets wouldn't hurt. also, I would say those pistons would be cool, but I am paying off over $8000 in debt, so I think I need to get that done first.

mental note: don't let my wife read my recent post. lol

if I had more pics of hot women on subarus I probably would be looking at them rather than posting right now.