JonOfScio

oh, sorry... i didn't even realize I made a typo. 1989. But I do think they DID make an XT6 in '87, I think it was the first year. But no, it's an '89. And I can try and get as many pics as people want, on the first. The First of july it becomes mine. edit: turns out, after research, the xt6 only ran from '88 to '91

it's a black 1987 XT6. 5MT, FT4WD with LSD in the rear. It's near mint, but the only problem is that, although yes, I've always wanted one and there's the change to buy it, it'll cost me a grand total of $2500 when it's all said and done... but I'll pay the owner $100 on my next payday, and take over the payments in my name, and he'll hand me the keys and all the paperwork he has. then it's off his hands. I say it's worth it, I want it, it's THAT good. Now to decide what to do with the legacy! do I sell it?

some dip**** told me when I asked him if it was worth .75 a foot for 12ga speaker wire, he said "your stock wiring is fine! even 16ga is find for less than 100w. what do you think I'm running?" so I went out and bought a ****load of bell caps, and 20ft of 12 guage wire. Even just for the speakers running off the deck, it's louder, clearer, has more low end, and doesn't clip as easily as it used to. not to mention I went to RCA cables instead of high input for the rear speakers off the amp. So that's clearer, has more range, and is waaaay louder. but even just in the new wire to the front speakers, ****ty stock wiring has *nothing* against the quality of a higher guage wire, even at 22w RMS. Although I doubt I need 12guage wire for the front speakers, 14 probably would have been fine. but I think stock is like 18 or something? it's f'ricken small. so for less than $30, if anybody has some decent speakers, and a decent deck, I say just go out and grab speaker wire (a whole legacy will probably take about 35 feet) and alot of terminal connectors (bell caps or butt splice connectors) and I'm sure you'll enjoy the quality of your sound much much more than stock wiring.

Why not instead of using NO2, use an O2 canister of compressed Oxygen gas, and put it into the airstream before the maf sensor. Then use CO2 to cool the intercooler. That should give it a boost... right?

Well, I was talking to a couple of my new coworkers at my jobsite, and one used to race top fuel. He was discussing some of the reasons why he said that his dragster would last more matches, have less problems, and not need a rebuild for LONG periods of races. I'm not going to explain them now, because I'm incorporating them into my wagon's engine. But it's cool. And the parts/time *ARE* expensive for it. But it'll be worth it (to me) in the end.

there's nothing wrong with the displacement issue of a 1.8 Liter engine. The VW 1.8T in the Jetta runs at 180hp, with advancement in the turbo pressure, and a chip, 220 to 230 is WAY acheiveable. The reason why is because there is alot of good technology in the heads. If it weren't VW, I would say it's reliable at these HP. But I'm NOT a fan of new VW technology. Weird intakes and crap. They have 5v per cyl. 3 intake and 2 exhaust. btw. In order to get that out of an EA81 or EA82 you would need to make sure all the internals are capable, a cam profile that's pretty outrageous, lots of boost, copper head gaskets, really good oil + intercooler and oilcooler. Headwork like P&P, and an all out overhaul basically. Like WJM said, all the stuff. On an EA81, you could use those SUB4 dualport heads OR the RAM ENGINES dual port heads. They have dual port intakes BESIDES the normal split intake in the middle, and two exhaust ports. The SUB4 exhaust ports, you can get a 4->1 header, equal length. I'm sure someone could butcher that up and put a turbo flange on it and get a good turbo (garret T3 or a VW 1.8 turbo, or wrx or legacy turbo...ect.) I would say it's possible, but nobody of course has done it and proved it with dyno that I know of... I'm trying to get 250 if possible from a built EA81, but I'd settle for 200. Probably be just barely driveable.

no turbone, <- the happy dance!

today's cologne of choice brought to you by Chevron. (insert castrol, mobil one, amsoil, ATF, gear oils, ect.)

is it worth my time to polish the piston rods, and the areas of the crank that touch oil (ie: not the bearing areas) to reduce friction in the oil? because there is so much oil around and about the crank and rods in a flat 4, I was thinking this would have some good benefits. Also, what about the insides of the block, I've seen small discussions on polishing and/or painting (high temp engine paint) to reduce tendancy of the oil to stick to the insides of the block. I think this might not necessarily be worth the time. Thanks for any opinions.

We all say "we'd love to see xx", but then when the outrageous idea of "xx" appears, we get those same people saying "nah, don't do it. it's a waste of time and money. do what everyone else has done and settle for xxx instead." Well, some of us just want to do the crazy thing, and go for xx. I could put an EJ engine in the car, but how many times has that been done? enough for me to want something different - and I've opinioned the people I work with, other gear heads, that my idea is pretty cool, for the fact that it's a pushrod 1.8 planning on getting around the 200 mark, and that it's something different. Different is good. turbo justys, XT6-T, XT6-TT, EJ33-Ts, ect.

Well, I know they work in XTs. *snicker* Hey, it's been done in a brat, why not in an EA82? EA82 compartments have more space than EA81s, so I say it wouldn't be AS difficult, but still a little hard. I say go for it. Different is good. Different is way good.

I likened my engine to the insanity level of what WJM is presenting. I'm not about ready to reveal it to the whole board, but once you see it when I'm done, you'll realize that "one port is no good" sh1t won't work in this application. I know that without a hint it's kinda hard to imagine what I'm talking about, but I'll just leave it at that it's not N/A and will look REALLY REALLY cool. And it is INSANE. Just ask WJM, he knows...

I have to say though, a weber is nice and easy for those who don't want to rebuild or tune a hitachi. BUT - a feedback 2wd hitachi gets AWESOME mileage when it runs perfectly. My hatch at one point on 89 octane got 45mpg.

It looks to be, from research, and from old posts that I've read, that an ER27 is almost literally, two more pistons added onto an EA82. IE: They have the same bore and stroke. And so then probably the same pistons... you could do a 9.5:1 SPFI swap or a 7.7:1 turbo swap... if you really wanted the most power from any turbo engine, you get as close as you can to as high a compression number as the engine will take. run the thickest oil it can take, an oil cooler, and an intercooler. oil coolers help everything, especially the heads, and intercoolers help against detonation. rule of thumb : higher the boost, or higher the CR, higher the octane. Since they wanted something reliable that could run on 87 octane, they did 7.7:1. oh, and I am going to have a 200hp EA81 as well. Anybody that thinks this is funny, will have to rethink themselves when I'm done. I've seen a 280hp L20 Datsun motor, NATURALLY ASPIRATED. What stops me from hitting 200?

hey man, that might even compete with my "secret" engine. I think insanity describes both. what about you?

Well, got some parts taken out of the hatch yesterday. Ian (don't know his post name) came down with Rick (GD) and rick took my dash, and fuel pump, and Ian got my windshield, windows, and hatch... all the moldings, ect. plus some other stuff, I can't remember. Anyhow, Ian gave me some cash ($50) plus agreed to sell me a 4" body/suspension lift kit for half off. (body in the front and an EA82 adjustable coil over in the back) so right now, as it stands, I've got the rear end I need for the car, will have a 5 speed push button 4wd EA82 tranny, and a 4" lift kit. I need the fuel lines, and engine harness, and ecu from another car. Then I'll give the engine to caboobaroo, and undertake my "secret" EA81 project I've only told a couple of people.

when I went to get my clutch done in my legacy, I was curious to see about getting a EJ22T clutch in there instead. Which is where I found out that they are different. The guy at the dealership said the bellhousing on the EJ22G (EJ22T) engine and transmission were different, as well as the input shaft, and the clutch worked differently as well.

Um, EJ heads don't swap... EJ25 heads swap onto EJ25s, and EJ22 heads swap onto EJ22s, and EJ20 heads swap onto EJ20s. You can swap some back and forth, but there's some detailed work involved. SOHC and DOHC heads for the most part can swap between blocks, but they have the be their respective blocks. (IE: SOHC and DOHC EJ22 heads swap on EJ22 blocks.) go for the EJ257. The ej22T has a completely different block, and transmission, than any of the other engines. Nothing at all swaps off of it. Even the clutch is different. EJ22 N/A engines will use EJ20 or EJ25 transmissions, and can use the EJ207 clutch kit.

I think the Hitachi is either 130 or 150cfm max.

damn, this kinda screws up my dual exhaust idea.

Yeah, if I wanted a large barrel carb I think I'd go with a DGEV 38. It's a two barrel 38/38 instead of a 32/36. If you had enough compression, and a good enough cam, I think it would work real well.

I know EA81T engines did. And it will be caboobaroos, so I'll need to get one of my own for the EA82T since they don't come with them.

heck yeah dude now the debate: are you going to wait until after you get the 1600 running before you try to do the conversion? I think if you can get a rebuild kit (seals and gaskets) you should rebuild the engine, and go for the conversion right now. you can do the twin turbo mod later. Who cares about you? I'll have me an EA81 wagon, and I like the EA81 wagon body style! Also, forgot to mention: I'm going to do a RWD conversion. I'll keep spare good front axles for those days when I want to go four wheelin. 30 minutes out of my day to convert it back to 4wd and I'm good. anybody's opinions? anybody out there gonna scream because I'm not going to rebuild the engine and keep it stock? it's not like I'm making it carbed instead of trying to spend the little time it would take to adjust the timing and minor tuning issues. later all

No, I don't have pics... $200 for the car. $50 to have it delivered from the JY to my friend's house. So here's the story... engine has some HG issues, used to run real well from what the guy said to the owner of the auto salvage. The rear end suspension is basically shot, the AT 4wd tranny has huge tears into the bottom (you can see gears!) and the body is PRETTY straight. Another good thing is that it's the same silver color of my old hatch, so it's like old, in new, but in older... or something. Anyhow, plans are thus far: Engine will be going to caboobaroo for his '79 EA81TT lowered two door wagon. I will replace the ECU and engine with an EA82T and ECU from an '85 RX, replace the tranny with a 4 speed d/r EA81, put in a rear EA82 wagon suspension (raises it a little) and convert the rotors over to 4x100. This is an overall plan, and it should take around 6 months on my budget to complete. Engine: EA82T block, maybe an RHB5 turbo (if I can find something better I'll use it), EA82 carb pistons (8.7:1 instead of 7.7:1), find some Gen 3 or Gen 2 heads, a spider intake if possible, cams, exhaust, and polish and port. (russ is paying me for the engine and parts with p&p ing the heads) intercooler and oil cooler. hood scoop if possible, but mostlikely a FMIC. Body: stock Paint: stock Suspension: EA81 front, EA82 rear, rear disc conversion. Stereo: Probably none.

AWD, open diffs. 1995 Legacy L, converted to AWD and rebuilt using parts from all sorts of subies. Now, my question - just out of curiosity, how do I tell what my gearing is? 3.90? 4.11? One way to simplify it I suppose, is to know whether or not my driveline in my car is the same size and length and swappable with any other model of subie driveline. (IE: 2door impreza, 4 door impreza, years of cars... ect.) So if my driveline is swappable with the legacies only, then that would limit it to either a 4 door sedan just like the car is, or a wagon (or outback wagon) Now, I think my speedo is off... I've passed radars many a time and it's ALWAYS way lower than what my speedometer says I'm doing. IE: I've passed a cop doing 70 in a 55... and then passed a radar - I was the only one on the road, and it said 60mph. It's always just about this same amount off. Passed one once at 20 and it said 16. Once at 30 and it said 25. So it's always off it seems... is this normal of radars? the color of my car? my sunglasses? (j/k on the last two) So anyhow, when we lifted my car (at work) and the mechanic (to save time from me doing a clutch job I took it to work and had them do it) dropped everything, I could see that EVERYTHING under the car comes from B&R, which is a parts/wrecking yard in corvallis, OR. It was yellow dots and stock numbers all over the place... But, unfortunately, no tags on anything. so I can't identify if my tranny does come from an outback (which would explain for the speedo being off. they use 205/70/r15s. which I will have a complete set of alloy 6 spoke outback wheels with good tread next week! HA!) or if my diff is 3.90 or 4.11. It's really unimportant to me, but I know that if it's 4.11, I could get an LSD right? do they make 3.90 LSDs that bolt up from other subies? (in case mine is 3.90) thanks for any who reply