JonOfScio

get a nice vacuum cleaner with a bristled tip attachment. rub and scrape all over. this will help some, but alot of it will have to come out in another fashion. ie: contact paper.

y'all seem to be forgetting something. the Impreza 22B does not have an EJ22G. it has an EJ22B engine. hence the 22B. it's essential the equivalent of a phase II version of the EJ22G. The EJ18E/Ej20x/EJ22E/EJ22G and the EJ251 phase I engine can swap cranks, but the phase II EJ25 has a different thrust bearing location, ect. so does the EJ22B, a different thrust bearing location. It's different enough that in the UK, from a rumor that I heard, you can't order parts (ie: shortblock) unless you can prove you own a 22B. lol

I think the correct term is ding-a-ling.

it depends on how much damage is done to the flywheel. ever heard of nkk.

suonds like a starter/starter solenoid issue.

I was quoted $160 for a rebuilt from carquest. Maybe you can find a rebuilt kit of some sort, but it's doubtful.

what I need to know, is CFM flow and PSI charecteristics of the RHB5 turbo. also, those with the turbos, flowing as much as they can from it (ie: 14, 15, 16? psi) what RPM boost comes in and what size tubing, ect. they've been using. yeah, WJM is pretty insane. But, we all need something to stir up the pot once in a while. I've had some pretty hilarious ideas... not realizing the complexity of how much $$$ it would take to get 200hp from an EA81, or how hard it would be to supercharge one. But... Onto my EJ18TT. Est. Hp with stock wastegates: 250 flywheel. But who says I need stock wastegate pressure at 7.5 per turbo? hehe. This will run me less than $1500, and I already have some of the pieces. It's all in the works.

yeah, pre '96. Like mine. Dual port exhaust. Non-interference. SOHC 16v 2239cc.

I got a Gen I eclipse intercooler, in good condition, and an oil cooler from a late 80s Supra Turbo for cheap. Anybody know much about these items? I plan on using them for my turbo buildup. I figure I didn't need huge stuff (enormous oil cooler, enormous intercooler, ect.) so I got this stuff for next to nothing IMO. later

oooh yeah, forgot about all of that. open deck and closed deck stuff. So there has been one confirmed EJ18E with Ej20G heads that didn't have oil/water issues. I thought the EJ22 had all forged internals (including pistons) but I may be wrong.

and of course now, the EJ18 comes into the subject. Anybody know if all or some were semi-closed deck? The EJ18 is a good candidate for a low expense turbo engine, minus the one downside from it being the pistons. cast pistons with forged crank and rods? meh. but - it's got more meat to the cylinders than the EJ22E, and we know that people turbo those (with 2.2T internals, 14psi has been done.) So I think a properly built EJ18 with good pistons could push some serious power. heck the EJ257 is semi closed deck and it does just fine.

Well, if you're looking to swap thinking maybe the other one has more power, I wouldn't. OR if you're looking to swap because you're block is bad, or something... that would be different. Between pre '94 and post '95 there are a bunch of different sensor connections. you'd be safe to take your manifold and TB off your engine, do the same with the donor engine, drop it in, and bolt your stuff back on.

but the interesting part for me is that, the old 80s sube turbos are easy to find, cheap, and would make a great dual setup if you needed alot of boost.

ok, so, here's a thought. Read some threads about the possibility of flipping the manifold 180 degrees so that the throttle body faces the front instead of the back of the motor. This could allow extra room for intake piping if you have a dual turbo setup. so... reading up on RHB5s, they say the RHF5 is the replacement for the RHB5, and it's got a max of about 208hp. So, say, the RHB5 turbo is good to 175hp or so. It spools up quickly, and with two of them in series, and being a relatively REALLY cheap turbo, you could grab about 350 or more horses (estimated) from a capable engine. So, have a exhaust shop make up an upipe leading from a stock n/a manifold (say borla or whathaveyou) up to the first turbo, exhaust exiting, enterting next turbo, exiting there and going back down to where the end of the first cat section would be. Intake piping going from the filter to the first turbo, then to the next turbo inlet, then from that outlet to the intake manifold. This would be a great setup, but of course... that's a perfect world where all of our funny little ideas we think are cool would actually happen.

my '95 legacy leaks at the rear of my oil pan gasket. And in order to replace that... I have to pull the engine. So... I've got this spare EJ22 sitting at a friend's house. New bearings, new gaskets, seals, and I think I'm good to drop it in. It's a pre '95, so I have to use my current throttle body. But I'll switch over all of the injectors, sensors, and wiring when I go to do it. That should take care of all oil related or engine mechanical problems for quite a while. and I'm sure cams, decking the heads, new valvetrain, new water pump, lightened crank pulley and a lightened flywheel will help.

so, do the EJ20G, EJ20K, EJ207, EJ20x (2.0L turbo engines) come with cast internals? if they do, finding a good EJ22E or EJ18E would mean they could grab forged (yay forged) internals, that would just swap in (provided as my theory and research conclude that all phase 1 bearing and journal sizes are the SAME) and have a little bit more of a capability of the internals to handle power. this goes for STI people too as far as the rods go. STI people would need to find a phase II EJ22E for the crank to swap. but the only reason they would really want to do that is to lower CR, move to something forged, and be able to have a higher redline. this would make a stock STI engine a destroked 2.5L at 2.3L, and lower the CR quite a bit. EJ18/20/22 75mm crank 130.5mm rod length EJ25 79mm crank 131.5mm rod length

oh, which means, I'm looking for an EJ22T block. Don't care about the internals. I have plans. Just the case. Must be in good condition. And I need a forged EJ25 crank if anyone has one. The cheaper the better. lol.

ok, so then, it seems that at least, the RA type gearset seems to be obviously liked. oh, and nothing from subaru would run me what it would cost for you guys... I get 10% above cost on anything I get from any of the dealerships in town (because I'm special) which brings me to the next part, if anybody has parts that I'm in need of, and they plan on buying oem parts anyways, maybe we can make a deal. mwahaha.

anybody know which of which trannys are the strongest? (ie: hold up to the most torque and horsepower abuse) I do believe that I've heard good things about all of them and bad things about all of them, like nobody can agree on anything. Does anyone know for sure?

any EJ engine is a direct bolt in, problem is ecu stuff. an OBD I Ej22 will just drop right in, I think an OBD II EJ22 might want some of your older sensors, and the EJ18s I think will just drop right in and plug up to everything the same. what's wrong with your engine that you would want to replace it? seals and leaks and stuff?

I'd rather work with a BFH than C4.

Besides standard sockets, wrenches, the wrist pin puller, and some hex socket pieces... what else?

also, check your TPS.

dude, now that's comedy at it's best. I've always thought that dropping it from a high rpm but not totally dumping it (slipping it a little) was the best thing to do. wears out the clutch... But i'm probably wrong.

I'm thinknig your legacy tranny could handle 200hp, with reccomended fluid changes, and as long as your not too hard on it. you'd need: better flow in your heads*, cams, intake work, bigger injectors, exhaust, engine management. *Ej22 heads flow poorly. you COULD port them and do alot of insane head work, but I reccomend finding Ej20 heads. the difference between an EJ20 head and an EJ22 head is ENORMOUS. if you can find EJ20 heads it'll raise compression and also increase flow... from 9.5:1 to about 10.5:1 CR. you'd need to run premium, but at least you can get it at every pump. with better flow, and more fuel needed, you'd want bigger injectors. not too huge, but something to compensate so you don't run lean. And don't count on getting good gas mileage.