JonOfScio

when was the last time it did turn over? check your valves... and of course the heads, the gaskets, and your fuel would be first off.

Get new gaskets. Especially one that is flat without the opening for the water... (EA81 one) and a new Weber gasket. Use the high temp Red RTV silicone, and make sure it's on there good, but not so that you're worried about it squirting out too much. some say "just till it looks 'wet' " but I don't know about that. Mine used to leak when I did and didn't use any type of sealer. I've used the red RTV stuff on all of my gaskets now in my car (except head gaskets) and nothing leaks!

hope it goes well for you.

this is turning out pretty well.

but that's the way it works though... It's sad that this one will be parted out, but it's great that other vehicles will get some new life. The more the merrier. This has a 1600 right? GD, what's happening to the engine? where's it goin?

vacuum leak. definately.

I've already cruised through the yard. There's definately no Nissans worth remembering.

GD - does yours still sound like when I was out there? I had 2" straight back to cherry bombs and ran it for a while. it ended right after the front seats. it was loud. awesome low end. sounded like a much bigger car. Now I'm running six feet of 1 3/4" ID flex pipe back on each side to a custom made Y pipe, that goes to my old catalytic converter. The one in-line that has the air valve. Right now the air valve is unmuffled, so it's got a loud crappy raspy sound to it. but when you start it up, it sounds a little beefy but not too loud. nothing that the people inside the house would really notice too much as an nuisance.

long block assembly from CCR is the same price as an NA EJ20.

ten minutes of making a new battery wire connection, cleaning the alternator belt, and swapping and cleaning alternators later... 14v on the dash readout. Right where it was before. yeah buddy. . . the twenty dollar score.

eh? well, still, the idea is cool.

So, I need a new alternator.. go back to the auto salvage in my town to grab an alternator. What did the guy charge me? $20. So I'm checking out some carbs in this room in a shed, stuff that got pulled off pintos and stuff, there was like 7 different Holley/Weber carbs in there. Some were 32/36, one was a different barrel measurement.... but all of them were missing linkage or throttle stuff. I'm sure someone could pick and piece one together to get a DF series Weber. One of them was even *chokeless*. I mean, didn't have the means to have a choke. And all of this stuff is most likely gonna be moved to the crusher. :boohoo: In my search for something useful, being reminded of my wanting to do a holley/ford two barrel swap... I found it. A complete Motorcraft 2150 with no linkage problems. Electric choke... everything on it. You know what the guy charged me? $15! $15 fricken bucks! One of these rebuilt (this one looks freshely rebuilt, it's fricken CLEAN as hell!) can go for $200 or more. I think I scored on both accounts. today, Jon is a happy man. oh yeah. and my car runs again. that's cool too.

"leave it to a pro unless you're cool like me." . . . j/k man

hey WJM, there was a good EJ20TT on ebay the other day. mmmmmmm....

what's VF11? i've heard that a couple times now, what is it?

whoa, that was harsh.

I forgot your car was 4wd, which means it sits a little higher than mine. If mine (FWD) was dropped more than two inches it would bottom out all the time. My ground clearance is 6.5" and yours is 8.3" XT springs will drop my car in the front and back about an inch and a half. (I think about two in the back) you could do that and get the drop you want. Also, something cool you can do is take your front axles out (or kill them) and then put your car in 4wd all the time. (RWD!) You could possibly have a RWD EA82T lowered hatch, and we all know that would be sweet. Or if you want good gas mileage, just put in a FWD tranny and system. but you do know that it'll be a REAL tight fit for an EA82T? You could always swap in the ECU and engine of an EA81T. Just drop it in and do the ECU work.

Subarubrat: I checked out parts numbers, and pictures. The oil pump for EA82 engines and ER27 engines are *completely* different and about $130 difference.

you know, I used to own a chilton that covered all cars from '85 til '95. (or thereabouts) I wish I still had it. It would probably show the XT6 and EA82 pumps. I actually remember looking at that section. Someone on the boards has to have a manual that covers that.

man, that was lots of fun. pulled the radiator bolts and pulled the grill. put my radiator on top of my engine (this is sooo cool! caboobaroo and hondasucks showed me) so i could get more room to play with my oil pump remains. I eventually broke it into pieces so that it would come out on it's own. the shaft that enters the block got turned into like three pieces plus crumbs. fun times. new pump, new seal kit, new oil pan gasket, no leaks. needs three quarts new oil. I turned it over without the filter on the pump. I know, I'm an idiot. heh.

There are just as many plusses and downsides to each that I can't understand why anyone would put down or raise the other. the stuff about high RPM shifting, who needs to shift at 7 grand? does that make an OHC engine a *clear* advantage? who cares? yeah, less moving parts, but depending on which company your car is made by or what year it's made, it could be an interference design. and when a belt goes, your screwed. there's just as many downsides as upsides depending on which company you are choosing your engine design from. on an even scale of every car manufacturer, I think it shouldn't be an issue of saying this is better or that is better. I've seen fast pushrod v6s and fast late 90s thunderbirds... seen fast mustangs and fast import DHOC cars... I say, buy the engine you know the most about working on and like.

Caboobaroo and hondasucks came over to my fiance's house and was looking at the mess we call my car, when they told me about what's goin on. that's pretty cool. part it out and scrap it...

no, I think you missed the point: my pump BROKE. It's in like 6 pieces. The cover plate that goes over the pump housing and the cylinder and gear, broke. It's stuck inside the oil pump housing on the block. I have to somehow manage to either bang it out, or pull it out. The old pump is sitting on the ground along with about 4 or 5 other pieces of the oil pump cover. (the flate plate that is held on the pump by two screws and covers the oil pump piston) Now, THIS will be a fun time.

I undergo this same operator today. Had my pump break on my last week. Got my new one and a rebuild kit sitting right next to my car *waiting* to get put in.

That's good to hear.