4x4_Welder

Sure will, what's even better is a water/alcohol mix. Even more cooling, with a little extra bang. I have worked up a design for a system to be installed on my Ford 300-6TT project.

What happens when you flip the switch?

Power can be added, modifications can be made, but what freaks me out is "fixing" the rust with foam. Rockers are something of a structural part on these cars, since they make up one side of the pinch weld. Same story with the wheel wells front and rear, that's all that's holding the struts in place. If that's where the rot is, the car needs extensive repairs to be roadworthy. You might be better off getting a car here or in the south and driving/ shipping it back.

IIRC, #1 and 3 TDC is established with the numbered lines on the flywheel, and the others are established with a dot on the flywheel. I'm probably wrong, I'm a lot better with 300-6 engines and FE series Fords.

Turbo seals are probably gone, sounds like it's only smoking when the turbo spins. Just for kicks, I checked Advance Auto's website- you can get a turbo, rebuilt by Holly, for the low price of $600. Unbelievable. You can get your rebuilt for around $400, at least that's what the one for my 86 Trooper Diesel cost, it needed the entire center section and both wheels replaced.

I've seen totalled WRXs going on Craigslist for very cheap, like $2k kinda cheap. You shouldn't need the WRX title, just strip EVERYTHING off the car, install it under the GL body, and you're set.

I have had a problem with the wipers on my 81 GL since I bought it, and finally got around to fixing it- In any position the wipers ran slow, and stopped when I turned the switch off. I thoguht it was a problem with the intermittent relay, but on a whim I took the gear cover off the wiper motor. Turns out, one of the contacts was bent and not touching anything. Bent it back, now I have proper operation, the intermittent works, and it sounds better too. I love free fixes.

I used to live in ME, grew up right outside Augusta. I remember when EVERYONE had these Subarus, they were just about the only cars on the road in the snow. The thing that got me into these cars was a friend's 84 GL Wagon with the d/r 4x4, I looked for one forever before I got my first one, an 82 DL 2wd wagon. Hauled that thing from CT to WA, blew the t-case in my truck in Michigan City, IN, coated the little car in nasty gear oil and a piece from the case bounced off the road and smashed the windsheild. I was still able to drive the car into town from the rest stop I parked at, got a t-case from the junkyard, and brought it back. I wound up scrapping the car out six months later due to rust, and a broken oil ring that made it smoke like a locomotive. I now have an 81 GL hatch with the d/r, and loving it. It's got rust in the rockers, tons of annoying small problems, and a clutch release problem that defies any attempt at fixing, but I wouldn't trade it for anything. Well, maybe a 68-72 F-350 crew cab with a 390 and four speed, with enough gas in it to get me home, but nothing less-

I'm assuming it's gone, I didn't go to the auction. I have bought vehicles from these guys before, and there usually is a Subaru of some sorts and a 67-72 Ford truck of some sorts, which is what I mainly go for. If anybody wants to check out future auctions, go to the site for Stokes Auctions, http://www.stokesauction.com, and click the auction calendar link in the upper right.

There is a car at the Chico towing lot, not sure what year, it's got four round headlights and the emblem in a flat- bottomed v shape chrome piece, maybe an EA-71? Seems to be fairly intact, has a flat tire, but otherwise not too bad. Anyways, the auction is tomorrow, March 4th, preview from 6am to 9am, the auction starts at 9. Probably won't go for much, cars there usually don't.

Mine, since I got it, has dropped on the gauge when I have my foot into it, but shows a higher pressure -at the same rpm- with less throttle. I think it's the way the wire is routed, it might see a little tension when the engine torques over, causing a poor connection. Does your car act like this?

POR15 is great stuff, but I can't use it due to solvent sensativity, it's got a lot of Toulene or something similar in it. I have a truck I am planning on spray-bombing in the next couple of months, I have found that if you do at least five coats over three coats of zinc-oxide primer, sand with 400 grit between 2nd-3rd coat and buff with green scotch-brite between the last couple of coats, then use a power buffer with finishing glaze, it comes out looking like a pro job. I'm doing the hatch with OD Green, so I'm not worried about shine or anything.

4x4 rims are the six lug, 2wd rims are five lugs.

A good thing to do would be a relay conversion- two relays behind each light, one for high, one for low. Use the stock wiring to activate the relay, and power them with a 12 or 10ga wire straight from the battery. That will perk up your lights a bit.

IIRC, only the one by the tank is actually a filter, the one under the hood is a pulsation damper or something like that.

PM me if you want, I might be able to come over on Saturday. Don't have time to do a clutch for a while yet, at least until I get my 72 buildup done, but I can give it a thorough checkup.

How is the upper bearing in the distributor?

Most tire shops won't mount regular tires on t-type rims, at least not around here. Plus, as has been said, they are a light gauge steel, with a very low weight capacity. They are designed to be the bare minimum that will support the car for 50 miles, and not take up too much room or weight in the car.

Man, replace a couple of those with various years of Ford full-size pickups, and you'll have my yard. Good range there though. How much lift is on the green wagon?

Or just do like the PO of my hatch did, take the door out and put a piece of a BBQ grill over it. BTW, mine works when the low beams or high beams are on, but not when the lights are off.

The left one isn't too bad, but I think the right one is bent. Both are completely missing boots, no grease in either, right one has metal dust everywhere. Plus, I think the right one has damaged the tranny, it's dripping gear oil on the cat, and there is a decent amount of play in the stub shaft. Might be time for a 5 speed d/r since only fourth has anything resembling a synchro, but I don't feel like throwing wads of cash at this thing yet.

Both of the inner cv's on my 81 GL are shot, and I can't really afford to replace them right now. My main thought is, can I take the shafts out, leaving the cups in the hubs to hold the bearings together, and run around in 4x4 driving the rear tires? What will break on it? Rear diff, u-joints, rear cv's, or can I just flog it as usual?

Local dealer is ok, a little optimistic on shipping times, but not bad. I found out today that the clutch cable from them is actually cheaper than the aftermarket assembly, and the GM designed that cable. Whether I buy that or not, I dunno. BTW, intake gaskets at CSK, $3 and change for cheap stamped cardboard. Dealership, $2.50 for better steel core gaskets. Isn't this supposed to be the other way around?

What about doing it with the engine semi-warm? When I broke the pivot ball off, I welded a washer onto it, and it came out with finger pressure. As far as anti-seize, for something like this I use Magnalube G. It's a teflon based lube, I have used it for tons of stuff, including exhaust/intake bolts on my old 300-6, and they just spin out, no rust.

Got the car running great, it finally idles down, stopped burning oil, all the electrical has come back to life, then I comeout to a 6" green puddle under the car. The right hand intake leg has started leaking coolant at the base gasket. It doesn't seem to be burning any yet, just leaking to the outside. So, I am now taking all bets, how many of the six bolts will break?