91LegLS

I have a '91 LS with every option offered by Subaru USA, including Automatic Climate Control and OEM CD player that plugs into 80W OEM stereo. The "aux" plug is completely compatible with iPods. You can get an adaptor at Radio Shack that plugs headphone jack on MP3 into stereo. My CD player will play anything placed into it, including MP3 recorded CD's. Easiest way to distinguish "L" from "LS" is body color door handles, puddle lights in the doors, power antenna and diamond pattern grille. My Pearl White LS had 169K and if it wasn't for the tach, I wouldn't be able to tell if the engine was running. If you have "fuzzy" headliner, sun visors and window pillars, you have an "LS". Height control was available only on LS wagon with 4EAT.

Are there any differences between these engines? Are there different generations of the EJ22?

Are you 100% confident your EJ22 was used in Japan and not just built for export? Allow me to explain. In the late 80's I lived in Japan for two years and also drove over there. They have something called Road Tax which is based on your engines displacement. Engines with a size of 50cc to 1000cc are in one tax bracket. Engines 1.1 to 2.0 are in another. 2.1 to 3.0 in another and so on. Road tax on the second bracket are approximately $75 and the third are $150. Selling the EJ22 is financial suicide to the JDM market because you pay the same amount of tax as the H-6 3.0. I have JDM brochures for the '91 and '92 Legacy and all engines listed were the EJ18 carburetor and EJ20 fuel injected with DOHC instead of the SOHC with the EJ22. If you go to http://www.subaru.co.jp/legacy/touringwagon/ and look at the models offered today, they still use the EJ20, not the EJ25. I have also collected brochures for the Legacy from the UK, Germany and Australia and all markets EXCEPT Japan use the EJ22. If someone can credibly dispute my claims, I would definitely like to read your comments and evidence.

How did you relocate the blinkers from below the bumper to the corner lenses next to the headlights? I found some JDM glass halogen driving light lenses that install down there but the blinker sockets won't install in the corner lenses.

I have 168k. Where are the contacts? Are they inside the starter? Does this mean the starter should be replaced because of age?

This problem seems to appear around every 3 to 6 months and it even happened at the dealer. I try to start the engine and the starter doesn't respond. The starter has been looked at and no problems found. When it happened at the dealer, they said the auto trans selector wasn't in park completely, causing the interlock to prevent the engine from starting. Tried moving the gear selector up and down the range, tried starting with selector in neutral. No start. My mechanic suggested I examine the interlock wire on the starter. It came off rather easily, cleaned the dirt and streched the connector out a little and re-attached to starter. No start. No corrosion on battery terminal or connection to starter. Another mechanic suggested the neutral safety switch may be bad. Slammed the door really hard in anger being stranded in Moab UT, the car started and has started everytime since the problem appeared. For the next 3 or 6 months. No mechanic can fix the problem or suggest what could be wrong unless the car is experiencing the problem. Any ideas?

For those of us who still have the "electric mouse" seatbelts that still work, are their any suggestions for keeping them working? Is there any secret warranties in case this safety feature fails?

For several years, I've delt with the degassing plastic on my glass with a product from England. The company is called Autoglym and they produce car cleaning products (for you Canadians, the company has been endorced by the Royals and their warrants are displayed on each bottle, including The Queen). Autoglym produces a cream-based glass cleaner that you wipe on to clean the glass, let it dry to a white haze in about a minute, then wipe off the dried residue. It contains no silicone, which contributes to the haze on the glass. It is almost impossible to streak or smear the glass because you want the cleaner to dry, as opposed to ALL spray-based glass cleaners, which must be removed before they dry. It also removes contamination on the outside of the glass (oil, trans fluid, etc.) that mixes with the rain water that gets splashed onto your windshield and eventually causing your wipers to smear and chatter because of contaminated glass. Rain-Ex is not a cleaner; it's a glass sealant. Each bottle of Rain-Ex says "clean and dry surface to be treated before using this product". Same goes for anti-fogging treatments.

Changing the PCV valve is part of scheduled maintenance (that no one does at the dealer). To keep your engine in good condition, it should be replaced before it contributes to engine problems. If you have your scheduled service booklet with the owners manual, it should recommend when the PCV should be checked or replaced.

When we were researching the availability of Limited Slip for the '00 OBW LTD we confirmed the vehicle had it and the gear ratio is 4.44.

I'm sorry, what does "N/M" mean?

I'm going to assume the knock sensor is the original. Both vehicles are automatics with AWD.

My friend recently bought a '00 OBW LTD with 60K. He just had the 60K maintenance done (oil change, fuel filter, air filter {K & N} spark plugs and wires, trans filter change, etc. etc.) He remarked that my 2.2 accelerates much quicker than his 2.5. Sea foam has been used to clean his engine. Injectors cleaned with 44K. He said that his performance improved after the engine cleaning but it doesn't accelerate as easily as my car. Is there something wrong with his engine? Does the '00 OBW weigh more than the '91 LS Wagon? I've driven his car and his does seem to be slower but it will hit 90MPH no problem. Just slower from stop.

My '91 LS has 165K and couldn't run better. My friend recently bought a '00 OWB LTD with 60K after his Pathfinder was totaled in a rear-end accident. We both would like to drive our vehicles until the day they die. Find out what maintenance issues it has and you may discover that your SHO will not outlive your Legacy. In 1990, the Legacy set a land speed record, travelling 68k miles in 18 hours travelling at 138MPH. The 2.2 is built to go the distance. Look how many VW bugs are still out there with the air-cooled boxer.

Can an older Legacy be upgraded to an LSD? I have a '91 with 4EAT.

The '91 MPG figures 2.2 engine are 20/27 for 5MT and 4EAT, sedan and wagon 4WD and 22/29 for 5MT and 4EAT, sedan and wagon for FWD. If your MPG seems to be a little low and you've changed all the filters, spark plugs and cleaned injectors with little result, check to see when your Oxygen Sensor (O2) was replaced. My '91 wagon was getting 18-19 until I replaced the original sensor, then the MPG changed in one tankful to 23-24 city driving. Oxygen sensors loose their effectivness if they are older than 4-5 years. I speak from experience.

If the car was compently repaired and restored to "as-new" without any deviation or defect, then advertise it in excellent condition. Be up front with prospective buyers and show that the car was damaged and repaired with documentation. If the buyer can't identify any problems then the car should be considered good as new.

I think he's looking at older OBW's ('00-02) using the check from the insurance company to purchase outright and no payments. Because he can be a little rough, he doesn't want to damage something new ( he has climed 50 of Colorados 54 Fourteeners). A friend suggested an Audi All Road and I immediately told him DON'T YOU DARE unless you want to spend tons of money on a car that is pathetically not up to the job. His primary objective is fuel economy and off roadability (he was getting 18mpg on the daily commute). I can't really think of any other vehicle that offers what the OBW does and the Ford Escape, Toyota RAV4, Forrester, Honda CRV, Saturn VUE are too girly. Plus, Detroit vehicles (Ford, GM and Chrysler) aren't worth the trouble because of reliability.

I bought my LS back in October '05 and we have been on a few trips in it to save on fuel. I could cary just as much equipment as the Pathfinder and the cargo area seemed identical. I've noticed that he really enjoys driving my car and told me he originally planned to buy a Tribeca in about three years when the used ones start showing up. Because of the accident, he has told me on several occasions that the only vehicle that makes sense is a Subaru but was wondering if he was giving up ground clearance with an Outback. I've told him that the ground clearance of a OBW is virtually the same as most SUV's but because the OBW isn't as high that it appears to be lower to the ground plus the seats aren't mounted as high as they are in SUV's. Hopefully with this information and some test drives this weekend, he will see the light.

I have a friend who was an owner of a '01 Pathfinder until it was rear-ended and totaled. We are going shopping for an Outback this weekend. He doesn't believe that the ground clearance on an Outback will be as good as his Pathfinder. The old vehicle didn't have limited slip (it was an LE with a 265hp 3.5 V6) I have a '91 LS with standard ground clearance. Can anyone give personal examples of the capability of the Outback? He climbs mountains frequently in Colorado and doesn't think the Outback can get him where he wants to go.

I'm waiting to repaint the front bumper before installing the jets so that the jets don't get painted over. I'm also preparing to install JDM halogen foglights that install where the turnsignals are presently located. Should be soon before everyting is done.

EDM Subarus didn't come with wipers and they tend to be broken off from car washes. The washer jet is very powerful so wipers aren't needed.

If you are still looking for leather seats, eBay has a set in light tan rear seats. Item number 120007663128 currently has a bid of $US75 or you can buy them for $US150. The seats are located in Scranton Pennsylvania.

The a/c mechanic I work with (commercial refrigerated trailers) says the expansion valve appears to be clogged. Where it is located? The pressures on the low side are good, the cooling fans are running, the engine temp is at little below halfway on the gauge, the compressor is good and both the condensor and evaporator are clear of crud.

The USDM unit is a clever piece of kit. If the outside temp is hot and the A/C is on, the unit analyzes the rate of interior cooldown and if it isn't getting cooler fast enough, it automatically shuts off outside air intake until the temp is maintained, then cycles between outside and inside air continuously. If you are behind someone with smelly exhaust and you manually shut off outside air, the unit will override your selection after 10 minutes, to reduce carbon monoxide buildup inside. If it's cold outside and you start the car in the morning for the first time, the heater won't come on until the engine temp increases so that it isn't blowing cold air.