91LegLS

I have a '91 LS with digital climate control (the USDM version). Installation of the unit requires a outside temp sensor under the grille, another electric eye that detects sunlight so that it knows if it's day or night to control air flow, a interior temp sensor, plus all the other stuff mentioned earlier. You might want to check with your local dealer and find out availability of the USDM unit unless Subaru cancelled the item with the redesign in '94. The JDM unit is probably just as rare as the USDM version, and I don't think it was offered in the EDM. I've had two sales reps and a parts manager who sold Subarus during the '90's and all have never seen the USDM digital climate control unit. One rep took pictures of mine.

I have a JDM brochure (written in Japanese) and it had keyless entry but it doesn't look cheap to install. Remote was incorporated into the key, instead of the light, and the signal was received by a sensor installed on the drivers door handle. I'll bet it's very rare even in Japan. If your goal is to stick to OEM. The recomendation from "ionic" seems to be your best bet.

I thought "pinging" was related to the grade of fuel being used. Are you using the lowest grade available and does it meet the recommended octane rating listed in your manual? My book says minimum is 87 or mid-grade for me, 91 for turbos. I have tried using the lowest grade and I was pinging a little. I then dumped some octane boost in the tank and the pinging stopped.

NGK is what my dealer stocked in Subaru boxes. My owners manual listed three manufacturers (NGK, Nippondenso and Champion) and the part number for each plug. It also listed the recommended spark plug gap.

Where is this heat sensitive switch located? My a/c is working but it seems to be loosing its punch when things get warm. I recently had the a/c system checked and the freon is good and charged correctly. I'm thinking the switch is showing its age and should be changed.

I have a '91 LS wagon. Leather wasn't available on the USDM wagon until '92 and available only in the "LSi', the "i" was Subaruspeak for leather. Very rare because of the added cost and seat warmers weren't installed until much later. The colors are gray and tan only and your chances of finding a set in decent condition are slim. If your goal is headrests for the back seat, go for the LS interior, which should be a little easier, but not common, to find.

I've searched this database on "spark plugs" before asking this question. Recently, I removed the Delco plugs and installed the NGK's recommended by the owners manual, and I'm averaging 22-23 mpg in city driving. Will making an investment in a more expensive plug that promises better performance be worth the time and money? Are platinum, iridium and copper plugs worth the effort? Do plugs with split or multiple electrodes (the piece of metal that curves at the end that screws into the engine for you newbies) make a difference? I guess this type of question is related to using higher octane than is recommended or the best type of oil to use in your engine, but I'm still curious.

If your A/C doesn't seem to get cold fast enough, while you're under the dash, make sure your evap core and heater core are clean. Older vehicles can accumulate debris on the core itself from outside air contamination and can slow down the amount of chilled air being sent to the vents. I recently had mine done and my car is downright frigid in about 2 minutes. Just a suggestion.

I have a friend with a Pathfinder that requires premium. He uses mid-grade which is better than regular and hasn't had any problems. I understand the Nissan 3.5 V-6 can be very finickey but it seems to be fine with mid-grade. Use super once in awhile for long trips.

I discovered at the dealer that the part I bought was for Imprezas, Legacys and Forresters built between 98-00. The guy that sold me the item appologized for the incorrect listing and refunded my money but now I have a part I can't use. I may end up selling it on eBay unless someone who reads this message can make use of it. It's normally $50.

I found a brand new unused one on eBay for $2 but I can't seem to find the one I have.

Sounds like when you hosed off the engine, you got water where it shouldn't be. As a general rule, when hosing off the engine, keep the engine running so that if you hit something sensitive, the engine reacts almost immediately. With money being tight, for now try a potent fuel injector cleaner like Seafoam (Pep Boys $5). At some point you should consider a basic tune-up (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter) If the engine is making strange noises, Subaru engines aren't exactly Lexus quiet. Try an engine flush when you change the oil and that should free up things a little.

If the roof rack and side mirrors are made of black plastic, try something called "bumper black". It is a cream that you wipe onto what you're cleaning, rub it in, then wipe off the excess. Works on anything made of black plastic (door handles, rub strips, grilles, etc.). AVOID ARMORAL AT ALL COSTS! Once you use it, you can never stop unless it is cleaned off. It speeds up deteroration if you stop using it, on top of the white shiny appearance.

I have a 91 LS wagon and I now get 20-22 in the city and 25 on the highway. I was getting 18-19 until I replaced my original O2 sensor. According to the USDM 91 brochure I have in my collection (I have a USDM brochure, a JDM brochure both sedan and wagon, a UKDM brochure and soon I will have a EDM brochure written in German) the MPG listed are 20/26 for the 5MT AWD and 22/29 for the 5MT FWD. For the 4EAT the mileage is 20/26 for AWD and 21/27 for the FWD.

A couple weeks ago I had the original O2 sensor (confirmed by the mechanic) replaced. 159K on original engine. It made a big difference. I am now consistently getting 200-220 miles in city driving on 10 gallons. Highway MPG has increased to about 25. Idle set screw was also causing idle RPM to run at 1300. Mechanic adjusted idle screw to 450-500 rpm and the engine is now almost Lexus smooth (ran Seafoam in the top end a month ago).

I wish I could drive 220-230 miles on a tank. I'm lucky if I get 180. The mechanics I work with looked at my O2 sensor and they said it looks like the original (159K on the odometer). I'll be changing it soon and see what happens.

I have the Auto but I don't think I should be getting as low as 16, I have the fuel receipt to prove it. Is the O2 sensor difficult to get at? I understand I have only one.

The washers arrived today. The washer tank is larger to accomodate dual duty. The hoses are twice the size of the windshield hoses and the pump is a third larger than the windshield pump. The switch is lighted (two tiny bulbs found on switch) and installs in a bezel that fits perfectly in that blank area underneath the defroster and cruise control switches (just installed for the hell of it). Switch blank found next to washer switch (might be new home for EDM rear fog light switch, found someone in Germany who might be able to locate EDM rear fog light that is located on the drivers side tail light assy where the back up light goes, the rear fog light lens is red).

So...when I get the coolant changed I should also get the t'stat replaced. I should still strongly consider having the O2 sensor replaced first, right?

When the tech scoped the engine he also tested the temp sensor and said it was reading correctly and didn't see any problems. The temp gauge always seems to be on the "lower third" side. Tested the emmissions and everything showed normal (not running rich or lean). I have a wagon and the back is always empty. When I fill up, I fill the tank and it usually takes 10-12 gallons. I always record the odometer and trip meter reading on the receipts. When I replaced the plugs, there was no excessive deposits but the plugs were tan in color. They were also Delco's that weren't properly gapped. Changed the plugs in November 2005 (bought the car September 2005). Had the coolant tested in March and they said it was a little weak but the temp never seems to get higher than the halfway mark.

No check engine light, timing belt good, not recently changed but in good shape. Wheels rotate easily (brakes and bearings OK). HVAC is not using A/C (have automatic climate control and the ECONO button is engaged all the time). O2 sensor was evaluated and was reading correctly but I don't know how old it is. I work in a diesel repair shop and some of the techs think the O2 sensor should be replaced because of possible age issues (159K on the odometer)

Have a 91 Legacy 2.2. Have changed the air and fuel filter, new plugs and wires, Seafoamed the top end of the engine and crankcase, 44k in the injectors, tires properly inflated, just had the engine "scoped", tech found no problems. I'm lucky to get 220 on a full tank with highway driving. Trip meter usually says 185 when tank is empty. Tech pressure tested fuel system and no problems with leaks anywhere. Brakes are not dragging, they were recently inspected.

So...generally speaking, Berryman or 44K are better suited for fuel induction cleaning, whichever you prefer, and SeaFoam is more towards oil crankcase, but is also an effective air induction cleaner. I've never tried it but one could use 44K as an air induction cleaner as well. The instructions on the 44k can don't mention the PCV valve treatment, whereas SeaFoam does. BG may have another cleaner better suited to air induction cleaning that I'm not aware of. In any case, with the price of fuel approaching stupidly expensive, any one of these chemicals should make sure that our prized Scoobys (what ever they may be) will be running as cleanly as possible and help us earn higher MPG's than vehicles that haven't been treated or are not maintained very well.

How does Berryman compare to 44k from BG? I went to their website but couldn't find a MSDS. Has anyone heard of 44k or have used it besides me?

Well... OK then. I usually change the plugs, fuel and air filter once a year and put in a can of 44k in the tank, and that has kept my past vehicles happy. In Colorado, the fuel gets dirty because the roads are sanded when it snows and it does eventually wind up in our fuel filters. Later today, I added the rest of the SeaFoam into the PCV hose and I was very embarassed as to the amount of white smoke I was producing. Thanks for the info.