mdjdc

Are the connecting rods the same in a turbo and non-turbo EA82 engine. I'm planning on an engine rebuild and need to decide which block to use to make my high compression turbo engine. I've heard others state that they just put turbo heads on a NA block, but I am thinking of putting NA pistons into a turbo block. Just want to look at all of the issues, so any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

[That all depends on your level of knowledge with a wrench. Are you willing to pull the motor and reseal it? Can you replace the bearings? If so, it is a good deal, especially for a rust and dent free car. I'm in Richmond va, so if you have any questions just pm me and we can talk.

You can use the non-turbo tranny in the turbo car with no troubles at all. The turbo automatic tranny probally has a torque converter going bad. That seems to be the most common part to go on those. I've seen three go bad in the last two years. Just do the swap and you won't regret it.

Here's a story that is sure to get everyone laughing. My neighbor needed a car and I found him a 90 gl wagon 2wd 5spd that wouldn't idle corretly. He paid 150.00 for the car and we ended up putting a new ECu in it and he drove it for several months. Last summer he was driving it home and heard a funny noise under the hood. Upon inspection he said the fan was wobbling so he cut the belt and got back on the road. Needless to say he only got about five miles before he cooked the motor. I sold him another motor and he drove it for two days and cooked that motor. I felt bad and put another motor in and he drove it until last week when the motor locked up on the highway. He had it towed home and when I checked it there was no oil. He had seized the engine. This man is not an idiot, but when it comes to cars he is totally clueless. In less that a year he has ruined three motors and now he has given me the title for it. I plan to put in another motor and at least get back the money he owes me for the original work I did for him. This is what I get for trying to help a friend and then finding out that he doesn't really care about the generousity of others. Thought you'd all get a kick out of the story.

I'm in Richmond

Dylan: I just recently did this swap on my 87 turbo wagon. If you need help just let me know and we can get together. Pm me. Mike

Turbo cars are 3.7

If the tranny is out of a turbo car and is a dual range then it is 3.7. If it is a d/r that came out of a non-turbo then is a 3.9. Hope this helps Mike

Yes, the rear axles will fit the new rear end that you will install. Mike

I just did this to my best friends gl-10 You will need: flywheel clutch and cable pedal set out of a clutch car shifters and console tranny crossmember driveshaft rear diff if the gears in the tranny are different. Usually the manuals are 3.9 and the auto in the gl10 is a 3.7. If the tranny comes out of a non turbo and your car is a turbl you will have to change the front axles due to a differing spline count. Once you are done you will have to jump the wires for the neurtal safety switch or the car will nto start. I'm not sure which ones they are, but I cn check with my friend and then I can let you know if you want. PM me and et me know what guidance you need. It took us about eight hours to swap trannys on two cars at the same time. I was putting a D/R in my gl turbo and he was taking my parts for his car as the auto tranny had gone out. He loves the 5spd and man does it have some guts. Good luck Call if you want 804-393-0516

What are the stats on your engine and how much would you want for it? Also would you be willing to ship it to me? On my dime of sourse. Mike

Okay, first; get the parts back and don't go to that mechanic again. You can do this yourself. It's not fun, but with the right tools it takes about an hour or two. More for you since you have to put the trailing arm back on. Next, go to an auto parts store and get a bearing race installation tool. This will make removal and installation much easier. Tske the retaining ring off of the inner side of the arm (this is the most difficult part of the job) with a hammer and a punch. It spins off, but is usually peened in so you will have to bend the metal out of the way. Once you have the ring off you can take the tool with the proper adapter and place it in the middle of the race on the luter side. Hit this with the BFH and the entire race will come out of the inboard side. Once you have done this you can take the new race and use the tool to drive the new one in. It will beeasier if you place the new assembly in the freezer over night. Be sure you pack the new bearings if they are not a sealed assembly. Put the inner bearing in and then the retaining ring. put the outer bearing in and then drive the stub shaft back in. Now just reassemble the hub and remount the wheel and you are done. If you have any questions you can call me. I've done a number of these. Mike 804-393-0516

That loks like a turbo motor. how did you blow it up? Too much boost or was it just age and to much rpm's? Just curious because I'm planning on building a hig comp engine for my turbo car also Thanks Mike

I f the #1 cylinder is dead then you have a rocker that has fallen off. Before you do anything else pull the cover and check the rockers. I bought a car from a guy that had one dead cylinder and that was the problem. Power was nearly zip and I had to drive 8 hours to get the car home. By the time I got it home the head was destroyed due to the rocker beating up against the lifter before it finally fell off and ended up in the oil pan. Don't run it anymore. Just take the time and check the rockers. If one fell off you will find it in the oil drain runner at the bottom of the engine. Use a magne t to retrieve it. Good Luck

I had a similar issue when working to stop an oil leak on my wife's car. I found that for a mere 16.00 you can buy a full valve cover set and it comes with the grommets. Even the parts guy at Advance was surprized that the entire set was much cheaper than just buying the grommets. Good luck

I have a 92 loyale with an older engine in it. I don't know the history of the engine, but it appears to be an older carbed engine upgraded to work as an SPFI. The engine runs fine, but the rear main leaks even after being replaced twice. It's time for a repair sleeve, but I'm not sure of the diameter of the crank. Is there a way to identify the engine so that I can find out the specs before I pull the engine, or am I relegated to micing the crank and then ordering the sleeve. I'm just tired of putting in a quart of oil every week. Thanks Mike

I bought a dual range tranny for my gl turbo almost a year and a half ago. Since then I have been collecting the equipment needed for the swap. A friend of mine had the auto trans go out in his gl-10 turbo. So, this saturday we got together and swapped my tranny into his car and put the dual range in mine. In all I had to change the clutch (old one was worn), shifters, half shafts, and rear. After nine hours we had it all done and now my car can go anywhere. I'm psyched. He's happy to have his car back so that he can stop driving his fuel hog truck. he might even sell the truck to get rid of the payment. All in all it was a very busy day, but the payoff has been worth it.

It is a very slow process, as it will move a little bit for each full revolution of the piston. You can also go to Harbor Freight Tools and get a universal brake caliper set and that will compress the piston in very short order. Make sure that you have the master cylinder open. If that is closed, the piston will never compress due to the pressure buildup in the master cylinder resevior. Good Luck

That would be great. Let me know if you find it. Mike mdjdc@direcway.com

My compressor on my 87 turbo wagon blew a front seal last week lhile the car was being driven by a friend. Is this a hard rebuild and where can I get the parts needed? any help would be greatly appreciated. Mike

I have a neighbor who has a 1990 loyale wagon with a 3 spd auto, four wheel drive tranny. She had the tranny rebuilt last year and since then has blown two front seals out. They come right out of the seat. Any ideas as to why this might be happening? My thought was that the tranny was heating up and the seal softening and comming out, but I wanted to have som other ideas to look at when I tear it apart again this weekend. We are using OEM seals. Thanks

What you are experiencing is completely normal. The pressure is dependant on the rpms of the engine since the pump is driven off the timing belt. Unless you are hearing lifter noise I wouldn't worry.

Frank: Where are you in Virginia. I'm in Richmond and I have three turbos. Let me know if I can assisst in any way with info on them. Mike

It sounds like the knock sensor is going or the plug isn't firmly attached. I had a very similar problem with my car and pressing the plug down firmly took care of the problem.. Later I replaced that plug and used some dielectric grease to maintain a good contact. Try the plug before you buy a new sensor.

A little more info. The car dies after about ten miles and then it will restart after cooling off. I really don't know much about the car other than the stock info and the fact that it dies when it warms up. He said that it never overheats tho.