danbennett2u

Around here the highways can have speed limits of 75mph. its not uncommon to go 80-85 regardless of what car you have. Trust me you wont do any damage. watch some of those cash for clunkers videos on youtube, they drain the oil, fill it with what is effectively liquid glass, and redline them for as long as they can go. Some last A LONG time. Running a subie with good oil at freeway or autobahn speeds wont hurt the engine. I dont think you can redline it anyway, wind resistance will be your limiting factor I believe.

Are you looking to buy a car in south america and somehow register it in the states? That isnt real easy to do at all...

Doh!

I would have to recommend the automatic if you are on a strict budget. No clutch replacements to worry about. Mine has 343k miles on original automatic and still shifts promptly and firmly. I would say you cant go wrong with any of the 90-96 models as long as you stay away from the 2.5l (mostly auto outbacks and LSI/GT models in 96) there isnt much of a price savings going with FWD so go AWD, especially if you ever have to drive it in snow.

I too was under the impression that there was a SOHC ej20e that is almost identical to the ej22. you guys sure that ALL of them are interference? European vs JDM may be a difference

Yes that is a good link, I hate mouse over popup ads with a passion though. They make me avoid websites if I am on a computer I can not use adblockers on.

Oh ok. I think Shawn said he could get me the oring too, dont really remember was at the end of a 12 hour shift. If not oh well can get from the chain parts stores right?

each pump?

Ok thanks. Shawn said he would hook me up with the crank seal as well as the pump. Not really looking forward to doing this. I hate changing timing belts.

So is there anything special to replacing the oil pump? Is it basically take it off and bolt the new one back up? Do I use RTV or anything like that?

I have a similar issue but I have no sunroof. Since you mention rust check the top of the windshield seal as well. I have rust bubbles that are probably disrupting the seal between glass and frame. I am fairly sure that is where my wet passenger floor is coming from.

Shawn I may give you a call tomorrow - number on your homepage right?. U pull yard looks like they charge 15ish bucks for one but have to pay entry, drag my tools down, pull one, etc and condition is unknown. Depending on how much you charge it may be worth it to me to save the time. Yeah considering selling the car but may have to keep it until I can build up enough cash to get a replacement first. Dont have any way to get to work if I sell it first without having another car.

Yeah the writing is on the wall. I am replacing the oil pump on Monday, and starting the vehicle hunt now. Hope it stays running long enough that I can replace it and sell it for $500 or so. Not much around denver i can see that is in my price range that I am interested in

I doubt any have an aux input. You might be able to find one that had a separate cd deck or changer capability and wire that up somehow. Do people still steal aftermarket stereos from cars?

Nope it didn't start after any service. Just randomly started happening Monday. Plus if it was filter related I would most likely have the issue with cold startup as well. Iagree that the mileage is not necessarily an indicator of end of life but trust me this one has been feeling well past its prime. The sparkley oil at last oil change is a good indicator too. Imsure the major overheat three months ago was hard on it too. Using 15w40 on a high mileage 20 year old Subaru doesn't hurt it. This isn't a tight tolerence modern wonder that reccomends 0w synthetic. I have been usingit for years and bad MPG has never reared its head like this. I'm pretty sure I'm on borrowed time at this point. If anyone knows of a decent running ej22 second Gen legacy for around 2 grand let me know

On a real tight budget. I am going to just get a pump from a u pull it junkyard. A gauge would be a good idea but will cost more than just replacing the pump and crossing my fingers.

Timing belt changed 2 years ago, maybe 40k miles on it. oil last changed about 1000 miles ago. I use rotella 15w40 due to the mileage/wear so fairly thick, oil viscosity should not be the cause of the low pressure

I should probably clarify... Once I get oil pressure I dont have to continue to rev it to make that light go away, It can idle and it doesnt come back on. I wouldnt say it is constant just at startup. Probably still not worth the effort?

The rest of the car is not in good enough condition to warrant an engine replacement - and I dont have a place that I can do it myself (no garage, not really allowed to work on our cars in parking spaces but I do anyway). My mpg is down around 21 with mostly highway driving and I have noticed a loss of power over time as well so you are probably right though. Just trying to limp the thing along until I can get a replacement. Guess I will try to find an oil pump used, but for some reason car-part.com shows none in colorado?

The repair will definitely not outweigh the value of the vehicle. A dealership will charge A LOT to do this because it is almost all labor with very little parts expense. I would go with an independent mechanic that is familiar with subarus, but as far as I know there is nothing all that unique about doing this on a subaru engine vs any other make/model engine. In my opinion it is more of an annoyance than anything and as long as you keep your oil level up you are ok, but I know it can be a little embarrasing especially on a newer vehicle. A .6 difference in average MPG is not anything to worry about, that small of a fluctuation could be due to temperature differences, tire pressure differences, or weight of cargo you are carrying around. I would venture to say that much fluctuation is normal.

My 92 Legacy has 343k miles on it and is feeling pretty tired. Latest problem is on warm starts (after car has been driven, then let sit maybe a half hour or hour) the oil light does not turn off until I rev the engine. If I let it idle it never shuts off (havent idled it more than 20 or 30 seconds for fear of ruining it) If I wait too long before reving it it knocks slightly I assume due to lack of lubrication. This did not gradually happen, started monday and has been happening since. Oil level is ok, and it is fine on cold or hot starts (less than 30 min sit time) SO I have to rev the engine immediately after starting it in order to get some oil pressure. This is not ideal. Is it time for a new oil pump? If so is that hard to replace?

I know the Forester is based off of the Impreza, does anyone know if the floors of the cargo area the same?

Because I got some for free

Thanks, I had tried searching but couldnt find anything, will have to keep the wix site in mind for future. I figured they were the same since the SVX motor was based off of the ej22

Will an oil filter listed for an svx/tribeca fit on a first gen 2.2?