danbennett2u

Knock sensor "listens" for detonation, or pre-ignition.. basically the fuel/air erupting too early. It tells the computer if the timing needs to be adjusted if I am not mistaken.

just a follow up, yes it was the fuel pump. got one out of a sedan to replace it, wasnt too hard prob because it had seat back passthrough The one I got from the junkyard was about twice the diameter and longer than the pump that came out of mine, just swapped the whole sender unit, but it runs fine now.

yes AWD. Hadnt heard of that before. I did the green connnector test and it is definitely not doing anything at the pump. stuck a cheap multimeter on the blue/yellow wire and it cycles from 0v to OL so i guess that means I am getting a signal.. Will be getting a fuel pump today I guess

yeah its a wagon... on a possibly related note... I used to occasionally hear a gurgling sound from the rear shortly after startup... could this have been a sign that the pump was dying? If so my impreza does the same thing

ah ok thanks, I thought the test connectors would tell me if there was an electroinc failure or something... I will check this out

Any way I can narrow it down? Can it be tested with the pump in the car? It seems kind of strange that it just failed overnight, it was literally running fine one day when I parked and then not at all the next morning.

no fuel smell after cranking for 30 sec... unhooked fuel line coming out of fuel filter, slight dribble when first disconnected then nothing, even when cranking with this unhooked... Definitely no fuel. Fuel relay was dragged out of the dash months ago while troubleshooting an unrelated issue and secured by the fuse box at that time so I could get to it if I needed later, and I had a brand new spare to swap it out with. Neither makes a difference and I can feel them clicking them on when you turn the key so I assume that is not the failure point. Did not do any further testing as I had to get to work.

Hey my 92 legacy was running fine yesterday then today wouldn't start. It cranks but isn't getting any fuel. Fuel relay was swapped but didn't make a difference. Where is the fuse? Anything else I should check?

The top and sides are solid... how big of a deal is this? should I worry about it snapping? I really dont want to replace the control arm if it will get me by for a while as is...

Timing belt should be replaced around this mileage. If it breaks the engine valves will be damaged. Head gaskets have been a problem in 2.5 engines but not as much of an issue in the newer ones. Thats a lot of miles for a 2005 but if it has been cared for it can last for another 150k easily. Just like any car any maintenance records would be nice to have. You dont list asking price or condition etc so its hard to answer if this is one to pass on or not.

my bad, Durania did LOL

Im surprised nobody has said the obligatory "you used NGK plugs and NGK or OEM wires right?"

Not positive on newer models but the PCV threads into the intake manifold just to the passenger side of center on mine. Probably have to remove some decorative plastic trim to see it. Anyone with a newer EJ25 able to help OP out with location more definitively?

I had an issue with the marks when I did the timing on my EJ22. The marks that LOOK like the most obvious ones to use are not the right ones (I believe I tried to use the arrows which are not right IIRC). It is normal for the marks to not line up after the engine has been turned over I think, I am pretty sure mine did the same thing when I was going through this. As far as damaging the valves I cant help there, my EJ22 was non interference.

Nobody is saying 235k is end of life for the engine.... Just that it is normal to burn some amount of oil at that mileage, Subaru or not. The amount you are going through may be a little high though, especially if this got worse in an "all of a sudden" manner. Has this been a problem for a while, or did you start to notice it was going through oil at this rate when it didnt use much or any before? Like others said make sure your PCV is good, having poor crankcase ventilation will increase consumption.

I think most people would turn the key to try to restart it. I think if the belt snaps at highway speeds the damage would already be done. I doubt the couple hundred rpm a starter will turn would make any difference if the engine did lose time at 3k rpm, I would have to assume the valves were already damaged.

I usually get some slight sound right after brake replacement. Could be a problem could be nothing. Hasn't been driven on the road? I would get it up to a little more speed and give it some good pressure on the pedal a couple of times. If there is vibration one or both rotors are warped or incorrectly resurfaced. If the noise doesnt go away after a couple of good stops then sounds like the pins are not gliding like they should (you used grease and checked their condition right) or that the caliper may not be releasing. Could also be the dust shield hitting the rotor.

So 1/10th of an inch? I would say there is no real difference. That could be due to different tire/wheel sizes even. Thanks

I know the OBW's from 96 on have raised suspensions over a base legacy, Was wondering if the case is the same for Impreza's? Would a 95 "Outback" trim Impreza have shorter struts/springs vs a 96 and up OBS?

There is one more A/C failure that first gen legacys can have that I have seen at least a few people experience (myself included): Thermoswtich behind glovebox stops working, either causing the compressor to not cycle at all or to work intermittently. not sure what year/model your subaru is but I agree a leak is definitely the most common failure, so start with that.

I thought it was pretty hacked looking honestly. I think they should show more of the modifications like the edge of the glass and where the back of the new cab meets the side of the body. Not hard to hide cuts under the bedliner covering the sides but seeing where modifications join the original form is where you can tell how well this was done. I know it probably took a lot of work but I bet that thing flexes like a weeping willow with that much of the body gone. Whats with the Mercedes glovebox tacked onto the dashboard?

Can a cracked knock sensor actually do damage to the engine? I thought the ECU just kicked the timing back to a "safe" level when it failed and the only issue this caused was to lower performance some and trigger the CEL?

Second link tells which wires to jump, second to last post. This fixed the problem for me and I never had the evaporator ice up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76297 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60679&page=2

There is a temp switch behind the glove box. Our legacy would work sometimes great and other times not at all. Jumpered two terminals in the switch and it worked great after that. Will see if I can find the post I went off of. It was years ago so really dont remember.

Is this for a legacy? On our 95 impreza the wires at the top of the hatch under the rubber boot that connects body to hatch had been crimped to the point that most had broken, including wiper, defrost, brake light. Give that point a quick check, its very quick and easy.