danbennett2u

Will echo what pretty much everybody has said. 2.2l is probably overall the best engine Subaru has made as far as durability goes. That said you seem to be favoring Foresters, and none came with a 2.2 from the factory. The SOHC 2.5l (99 and up in Foresters) still has head gasket issues, but they tend to be external leaks (vs coolant leaking internally into oil and cylinders in the DOHC). If Forester is your focus, I would chose in this order: 1) one with a 2.2l swap 2) 2.5l SOHC 2) 2.5l DOHC

I think you are on the right track, I would have guessed bearings first. Since those did not fix it, and the fact that it changes with suspension movement my next guess is cv joints. If I understand correctly it is only the outer ones that click with steering, you could have a bad inner joint. Im not positive but would be kind of surprised if it is the diff.

The area where the poster is looking isn't exactly a subaru haven, They just aren't as common in northern indiana. Rust will be a big problem with a 90's subie out there. Options are very limited. I know, was looking for a 2.2 subie in that area for my parents a month ago. Still, I would look for a 2.2l legacy, and scour it for rust issues. Also if you are new to full time AWD look up torque bind and watch for that. Dont be afraid of one that has 150-200k miles or more, mileage doesnt seem to kill those cars. Put more emphasis on how it has been taken care of, rust, and if it drives fine. If you have the option buy a plane ticket to a western area favorable to subarus (Denver, Eugene/Portland, Seattle, etc) and spend a week looking at what is available out there and drive one back. Will give you more selection and less rust issues. Take the trip money out of the cost of the car and you can find a very nice 2.2 for 4k

He said he already replaced plugs and wires. Plus the steam isnt a good sign EDIT: oops guess I am a post late

Can get a Spectra Premium CU1574 for 93 dollars shipped on rockauto.com. That is about the cheapest I can find and it is the same one they sell at autozone. Seems to be the cheapest new I can find. I will prob go this route If I can afford it.

I need a new radiator for a 95 auto 2.2 Impreza. I have heard that you should not buy junkyard radiators. Is there any reason for this? I need something not too expensive but do plan on keeping the car for a while. Has anyone had bad experiences with a junkyard radiator? Are the new ones at auto parts stores junk?

The body of the two models is completely different, can see it in pictures of the models if you want to verify this, so unfortunately nope, you will need a legacy door. ***Sorry didnt realize this was a day old post

I personally would get a OEM one from a junkyard rather than one from the auto parts store, I have had very bad luck with remans from other manufacturers (replaced one on a grand prix years ago 3 times within a year) of course what you find in a junkyard may be a reman as well, but all of the subarus i have owned so far seem to have their original alternators and have worked fine.

Thanks for the advice, as far as times to sell there is no attraction for this car for snow since the AWD clutches are worn out. Will not be selling until closer to fall most likely, after I buy its replacement, and I was originally thinking i wouldnt get much more than scrap value for it (300ish) but I think just the fact that it is reliable and roadworthy and isnt trashed should make it worth somewhere in the 500 to 900 range, regardless of mileage. Honestly it feels like it has 200-250k miles on it, and although it is looking worn cosmetically it is actually much more pleasant of a drive than a different Legacy I had that I sold with 180k miles. Will offer it up here first when I do decide to part. Thanks as always for the opinions.

I understand mileage is not the only selling point, and pictures are what sell the car... but I am wondering how much does 350k matter vs a car in comparable cosmetic and mechanical condition at 250k? I know we are looking at cars around $500-$1500, at that price point does the extreme mileage really matter or is condition more important?

Going to be selling my legacy sometime in the future. I am not sure how much to ask for it. The biggest issues are very high mileage (almost 330k miles) and non working AWD. So I assume I will need to price this as a FWD car, but is there a certain point that high mileage stops reducing value? Is a car with 250k miles worth around the same as one with 350k as long as running condition, etc is comparable?

Ok, no cut wires that I can see, I cant even see any that have been obviously spliced and taped back up. The wires going to the horn are black. If the relay clicks I assume it is fine, I think it is more likely someone screwed it up past that point when they did the alarm. Dont have a way to test it anyway. Would like to just run a wire from some point in the cabin to the horn and test that way, Have tons of wire, no spare relays. I pulled the kick panel and took pics, but there are A LOT of wires and I have no idea which bundle to even start poking around in. I am attaching some pics, if anyone can help point me to the right place or has a wiring diagram for a 95 impreza that might help

I did not see any cut wires in that area last time I was under there. I did see some cut splices into powered wires near the center console, but those are obviously not the horn. Any idea which color wire it would be?

To the OP: If it is a steady tick-tick-tick-tick then it is likely from the lifters, very common and not really doing any significant damage but is kind of annoying. Models with hydraulic lifters will do it when they are oil starved (eg cold startup) or when they are plugged. I don't usually think of this as "clatter" though. A "clatter" could be a lot of different things, including timing belt components, etc.

I think I have found what is happening: Spark from ignition coil is arcing outside of the spark plug wire boot to the base of the coil, somehow causing the computer to cycle the fuel relay. Not sure why it isnt registering as a misfire though I replaced the plug wires with Subaru branded wires, and the car was driven for about 20 minutes and idled for about 10 more with no clicking/dying.

I probably wont be tackling this issue today, but my wife's 95 impreza had an alarm system installed at some point in it's life, and whomever disconnected it screwed up the horn. I know the wiring from the steering column is good, as I can press the horn and the relay under the dash clicks, but there is no sound. I am pretty sure the horn its self is fine, as sticking a 9v battery on the terminals makes it make noise. Somewhere between the relay inside and the horn its self the wiring is hosed. I would like to just run new wires from under the dash to the horn, can't be too hard, but I need some guidance on where I should be tapping into. Location, wire colors, etc. Can anyone provide any assistance?

By the way I am open to educated guesses, as this is not a common issue and I dont expect a lot of people to have personal experience in this. Thanks

I swapped out the ECU this morning (Why is this easier to replace than fuel pump relay???) Same issue, click under dash after idling for a few minutes, and engine either stumbles or dies. Sometimes it will go for a minute or two, sometimes it will click within 15 seconds of each click. I was able to feel that it is the fuel pump relay clicking and not the ignition relay. I put original ecu back in and pulled codes using black connectors, flashed error 22 (knock sensor, probably from the slight clacking I get on cold startups). If this was a grounding issue wouldn't it occur more frequently with movement? So in summary: No relevant codes Not being caused by faulty ECU Not being caused by faulty fuel pump relay (unless new replacement has exact same issue) No alarm system installed on car Not moisture related Not dependent on temperature or electrical load Fuel pump relay definitely what the click is, not the ignition relay Any other ideas I can check?

No alarm system, no water around relays, have not checked the ignition relay, the only way I can check it is to buy a replacement since I do not have any spares. I have an ECU to try that I can return if it is not the issue, will not be working on this until tomorrow and will let you guys know what happens with ecu replacement.

Two separate issues that started occuring within 1 day of each other: 1: click under dash, engine dies or stumbles. does not effect cabin electronics 2: loss of power when engine is under load, however the drive home today I only experienced number 1.

Electrical load doesn't seem to matter. The click/stumble does not seem to effect cabin electrics, radio stays on, etc. The recent loss of power only seems to be when there is load on the engine, and does not seem to be doing anything weird to the gauges.

Honestly you are not going to get a real noticeable bump in power from this stuff . By all means do it if you want, might get better throttle response, but don't expect anywhere near 30hp.

Ok, its not the fuel pump relay. Same symptoms, until after driving on the interstate for about 15 minutes without issue, I exited, and when I tried to accelerate the car stumbled, got the click, but instead of the car recovering I pretty much lost about half of my power. Engine still seems to be firing on all cylinders, but it doesnt have any power. Idle is fine, and if I rev it with no load it sounds normal. Exhaust does smell a little "gassy" though. Clicking under dash is a little more frequent, but does not directly correlate to the loss of power, as that is constant and the clicking is pretty intermittent. I am starting to lean toward the ECU again.

thanks, had to remove both fuse panel and the bracket holding the fuse panel in order to get up there well enough, but am VERY thankful that the wires are long enough to pull it down to unhook! I would be surprised if grounding is a problem, this is a colorado car and there really isnt any corrosion under the hood etc, but will keep it in mind if replacing the relay does not fix it.

OK I "Think" I can see it based on the location in this diagram: http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg But I cant see the connector, and I am completely at a loss of how to get my hands up there.... How do you even get access to this thing?