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danbennett2u

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Everything posted by danbennett2u

  1. Ok I have read that it is under the dash, and that you have to move the fuse box, but I cant find the thing. where exactly is the relay located? It isnt immediately obvious to me...
  2. Not compressor, belt isnt even hooked up to it. If the relays are controlled by the ECU, it could be either the relay or the ECU and no way to tell which right? if that is the case should I just get whatever is cheaper and try that first?
  3. Anybody? I need to look at options for fixing this pretty quickly.... If it helps, no Check Engine light is triggered from this, just the dash lights up when it dies (as it should) nothing unusual once I restart the engine or immediately leading up to the click. I am thinking ECU replacement, but would love some opinions before I go blow close to 100 on a replacement.
  4. mine only sits about a quarter of an inch out, does not go to the end on a 328k mile 2.2. Crank pulley seems to be able to rotate about 1/4 turn too when not tightened down too so I am a little curious on how this is SUPPOSED to look as well.
  5. Ok, Haven't been on here in a while because I haven't had any problems that I couldn't figure out... but here are the details: 92 Legacy awd auto 328k miles engine runs fine, but starting this morning, when sitting at stop lights for over 2 minutes or so I hear a click from under the driver side dashboard, and engine either stumbles badly or completely dies. It starts right up without issue. Obviously something electrical dying, anybody else had this issue so I know what part to replace? I drive 150 miles a day for work so definitely need this fixed! Thanks!
  6. In my experience rattling at certain engine speeds is heat shield related. If it was the tensioner why would that change at temperature?
  7. Well I can comfortably get 27mpg in our AWD 2.2 auto impreza, so the Justy's EPA figures of 31/31 for an AWD model arent too impressive, especially considering what I would have to give up in size and comfort. My next vehicle I would like to get 35+ mpg, and it is looking like I am going to have to go with a non-subaru vehicle I am so torn, I love my subies but I want better mileage!
  8. Title says it all, what is the best real world mileage I can expect from a Subaru? Is the Justy at the top of the heap? Will some older gen car take the honors?
  9. I am not a master mechanic, but I havent heard of a "cylinder gasket" Best course of action in any case it to get a second opinion from a reputable shop, preferably one that specializes in Mazdas. When you get your second opinion, if it matches the first then you can consider selling the car, etc, but I have a feeling that the second opinion is going to be a bit different than the "family friend" Cooling systems aren't that hard to diagnose when things are wrong, a reputable shop should be able to figure it out definitively.
  10. A tick of death isnt really a sign of something horribly wrong with the engine, if it is too annoying you can always work on the HLA's. If you really do want a newer car with two airbags, and you want to stay away from the 2.5l problems, I would just buy a 95 or 96 regular legacy that already has a non interference 2.2, just like others have suggested. There isnt much you lose by going a couple of years older than what you are looking at, and you save the trouble and cost of an engine swap.
  11. Need some more help here, on our 95 Impreza, we have noticed that when the car idles at a stop light that the AC compressor stops and the fan starts blowing warm air. Is there a sensor that is causing this to cut out?
  12. It goes away within a second or two, and if I restart the engine when warm it doesnt happen at all. I had hoped for piston slap but I know it isnt common on EJ22's either. Maybe with that kind of mileage anything is possible.
  13. I know what lifter noise is, and I get a little bit of that now and then, but the knock at startup definitely isnt lifter noise. A compression test will tell me what kind of shape the combustion chambers are in, but not how bearings, etc are. The little things dont bother me, that is why I have chosen not to fix them. I guess I just drive it until it dies, because it doesnt sound like anyone is saying the noise is impending doom
  14. I dont want to get into an argument over the oil, what I am using now has proven to adequately lubricate the car to get it up to the current mileage. I just want to know if the knock is something to worry about or if it is harmless
  15. You said you maybe want something a little bit newer, but the differences between a 97 and a 99 are very minor, with the exception of a less reliable engine in the 99. Why not get a 2000+ model year with slightly more miles for that same $7000 if you are really looking for something newer?
  16. Lots of members on here use 20w50 in the summer, as the thicker oil is supposed to provide better wear protection. As far as I know the only reason for lower viscosity oils is that they supposedly give better fuel economy and flow better during very cold startups. I figured a 15w40 with higher levels of detergents wouldnt be a bad thing for a car with high mileage and more wear.
  17. Thanks, I currently use Rotella T which is 15w40 I believe, so that should be keeping the pressure up some
  18. Hi, I have a 92 Legacy automatic with 320,000 miles on the original engine and transmission. I drive about 50 miles per day for my commute, mostly interstate highway. The car has a mix of miles, including being used as a newspaper delivery vehicle at times. Little things have gone wrong that I am either not inclined to or not able to fix: Window mechanism broke so it will not go up or down Seat belt cable frayed and quit moving A/C has leaked most of its freon door locks are flakey check engine light and AT light flash on and off at random times lights are burning out in the instrument cluster leaks lots of oil AWD clutches burned out long ago, so it is now FWD fuel smell coming from unknown location under hood, can not find any evidence of a leak. There have been other things that have needed replacement but I took care of them on my own. The two main things that concern me are as follows: 1) the engine knocks for about a second or two when first started 2) the transmission shifts hard from 1-2 (although this has happened for at least the last 100k miles) The engine doesnt make any noise under load or anything, just when it first starts after sitting all day. I am worried this is a warning sign that I am about to have a catastrophic failure due to wear. Other than the problems I have mentioned the car is in decent shape... It doesnt have excessive rust, the alignment is perfect, shocks are good, suspension and steering are tight, timing belt was replaced about 10k miles ago. My question is, should I be getting worried about finding a new daily driver?
  19. Oldish thread but my 92 Legacy auto is at 320,600 miles. Knocks a little when first started but runs great otherwise and doesnt burn any oil.
  20. thanks for the replies, no I dont want them that bad, I was just looking for some cheap rims and found a svx set. I will just find some that are the right size. Thanks!
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