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Everything posted by danbennett2u
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Help! My old timing belt broke, and I bought a replacement. I got the old one out of there, compressed the tensioner, put the new one on with all of the marks lining up. I tried to start it without the crank pulley or any accessories on to see if it would run and it wouldnt start. When I looked at the belt I noticed that the marks on the belt werent lined up with the marks on the pulleys any longer. I tried a second time and got the same result. is it possible that my tensioner is bad? It pushes back out if I release the pressure holding it in, and it seems to be keeping the belt pretty tight. I need some help from anybody whom may have run into this problem before. Thanks!
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I am hesitant to spend 80 bucks for one from my dealership, when the local auto parts store has duralast dayco and gatorback belts for 30-40 bucks. I dont know how much longer this car is going to live, do you guys reccommend I go for the OEM belt anyway or is it ok to go with a non subaru belt? Thanks for the opinions and past experiences with these.
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We recently added a 95 Impreza to our family. It has the EJ22 with a 4EAT automatic. Our legacys have the same engine/tranny combination, and I have noticed that the Impreza doesn't like to downshift....the pedal can be to the floor and the tach still at 3000 rpm.....The legacy seems more eager to drop to a lower gear when the gas pedal is depressed. Is there some sort of adjustment that can be done to make this a bit more responsive to jabs at the gas pedal?
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Try turning the key to on when the engine is cold. Check to see if the fans are running. If they are running when cold then the Coolant Temperature Sensor is definitely suspect. If this is the case the computer thinks the engine is hot so it doesnt provide the rich mixture needed when the engine is actually cold.
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Hi, been away for awhile, but I am looking at possibly purchasing a 96 outback with blown airbags. I found airbags at a local junkyard for a reasonable price, but was wondering about installation. Is this something that I can do that would be covered in say a chiltons manual, or do I have to take it to a mechanic? if I have to take it to a mechanic, how much should I expect to pay? Thanks
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92 Legacy L Wagon 4EAT, 280k on original engine and transmission, lots of power still, and runs very smooth. Averages 24mpg with a high of 29mpg (no exclusively highway tanks). Running E85 +1 gallon unleaded per tank now and getting about 20 mpg in mixed driving... 93 Legacy L Wagon 4EAT, 190k on engine and transmission, idles a little smoother than our 92 but doesnt have a much power and the transmission has some sloppy shifts once in a while. This one was heavily abused by a kid for several years after it was given to him by his parents (wow this car was disgusting when I bought it!) but I still see no reason why it wouldnt make it to 250k. Got 22mpg on gas and getting 20mpg on the same E85/unleaded mixture as the 92.
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I am searching for replacement front brake pads for my 93 Legacy, and want to know if pads listed for dual piston calipers will fit on a single piston caliper. I ask because there are dual piston ceramic pads displayed for a Legacy L on rockauto.com even though the post below says they are mainly on turbos. Since they are almost the same price as semi-metallic single piston pads it would be great if they are interchangeable! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76707
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I know it's not a Subaru but in the 87 Mazda 323 (fuel injected) I had, the cat was completely burnt out.. no issues or CEL. It even passed Denver emissions tests, so it might not affect anything at all. I would be surprised if the loss of backpressure would allow enough extra exhaust gas to flow through to affect the O2 sensor reading but I am not a mechanic.. I don't think it hurts anything else (other than the air quality) if the light doesn't come on
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Not sure, i have never replaced them. Is there a stamping or anything on them that would indicate whether they were genuine Subaru or not? I am hoping to narrow it down to the most likely cause...throwing parts at it is what I am trying to avoid as much as possible since the $$ and time are issues, so I definitely appreciate your suggestions
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I have two Legacy's with 4EAT and AWD: a 92 (270k) and a 93 (183k) In both cars there is a similar humming noise at 55-65. I have determined is not the wheel bearing (92 bearing was bad, but changed the bearing and no change in the noise) or tires (several different sets tried between the two cars) . It is also not brake noise. Cornering, acceleration, and deceleration has no effect on the noise at all...I can put it in neutral and take a curve at 60mph and the noise stays the same Since this is a constant noise, could this be a symptom of bad DOJ's? Related question: My 93 also vibrates on acceleration around 20mph, but not as bad when cold. My guess is a worn transmission mount at least partially causing this, and cold weather makes the rubber in the mount stiffen up?? Possibly with bad DOJ adding to the problem...would this make sense or am I off base? Note: I posted a similar question several months ago but did not have the 93, and since I have more info I didn't want to drag up an old post