Tosh

so I scored some free 3" pvc pipe today trough a guy I used to work with, Dropped $15 on some couplers from home depot and made this.

yeah, I tried to buy KYB's for my GL a few months back. They are out of stock everywhere I could find. All I could find was 2wd struts for days.

any pictures of these installed on an EJ22 swapped into an ea82?

well I ended up getting the napa SKF bearings on my way to work yesterday, if these go bad or next time another one goes out I'll give the sealed ones a try. Any tips for how to reinstall the seals?

I've been told to steer clear of the sealed berings. How are yours holding up?

what was the part numer for that ?

so after a TON and I do mean 30+ text messages between me and russ I got my knuckle out and front wheel bearings out. I'm trying to find the best value meets quality for bearings and seals. Napa can get me: Koyo bearings for $20.39 part number ATM 211501287 Napa "Proformer" brand for $14.49 part number PGB P6207J Napa "NAPA Bearings" brand $31.49 part number BRG 6207J -these ones say I need 4 Loose Needle Bearings Required I'm somewhat 'inclined' to go with the koyo brand. I've never done a bearing job before and I'm somewhat "lost" as which ones to buy. Any recommendations for bearings/seals would be awesome. Also tips for getting the new bearings back in would be much appreciated.

SUCCESS!:headbang: 2 grinder disks and a sawzall blade later and 'plink' the drill bit just falls right out. Now there is just the punch. I fashion me a good wacking system and get to pounding. Had to go and pick up a bigger hammer. VICTORY!:headbang: the damn axel just came apart when i went to pull it out.

transmission/motor mounts good? I know my custom linkage is "tight" and when I accelerate hard it tries to go into 4wd.

is it lifted ?

:banghead: spent all afternoon with the angle grinder trying to cut this axel out. No luck apparently a 4.5 inch wheel isn't big enough, gonna get the sawzall out and give that a try. :drunk:zzz:drunk:

Yeah it just sucks its a sign of the times, soon EA82 stuff won't be available at all.

Some companies still have some in warehouse, but call KYB or try to order direct from them and they show as a discontinued part.

I've been keeping my eye on this tread seeing as KYB stopped making 4x4 front struts for EA82 subarus.

I've got no doubt I can get the old axel off like this. My concern is being able to reinstall the new axel after. I'm all game for trying this I'd just like to have a trans in the garage just incase I'm not able to get the new axel in. Rebuilding or at least resealing a transmission is on my list of things to try my hand at so "having a spare" transmission would just give me something to work on this summer. The bit thats stuck in there is a Titanium nitride coated, I think it would be easier to do the trans swap then drill that out.

well my big fear is that I'm gonna cut off the old axel and still not be able to get the stuff out. At which point I'm stuck having to drive my subie to work for a week in RWD while I get my hands on a transmission.

Looks like its new transmission time Anyone got a DR awd box?

Yeah my local yard told me it was $20 for a FI tank so it looks like I might be swapping one in too.

so its NOT possible to remove the stub without cracking the transmission open?

Ugh, I was really hoping I wouldn't have to do this

I don't have enough to weld to on either side. The axel is toast both inner and outer boots are ripped I have a replacement axel ready to go in. I think pulling the stub axel is really my only option at this point. I've been trying to find a guide/fsm pages on "how to" but no luck yet.

So today I had possibly one of the worst days in my wrenching history. Long story short, My subaru axel pin removal tool got stuck. In the process of he-manning that out it broke off. I tried to punch it out with a 3/16" punch that got stuck, managed to barley get that out. Attempted to drill it out with a Ti bit and that broke off. So now one side of my axle has a bit of drill bit sticking out and the other has a punch. Needless to say they are both stuck good. How hard is it/is it possible to remove the stub axel from the transmission with an axel still on? or should I just be looking for a new DR transmission? and yes I know drilling it out was the 'wrong' decision, it was a lapse in judgement on my part.

Yeah i would try this. Your basically gonna have to strip down the turbo car and put everything electric into the non turbo car.