v8vega215

i have an extra dl brat grill off of a 79 brat that is in great shape in p-town orygun if you need that when it is time to get to the bodywork. maybe we could work out a trade or something. i might have other parts to but i would have to check. i have 2.5 brats and most of the parts are in my dads basement. let me know if you want some. one is a blue interior one is brown and the black white one i still drive

where do you find such item as an original subaru winch.

my distys are both electronic not pionts, but i tried again saturday and this time i capped off the vacuum lines and the result was the same, poping out the carb and a big backfire out the exhaust that almost blew the doors off the brat. i again got it to idle smooth but it wouldnt rev, i found the motor out of my 85 hatch ea81 and it has a good disty in it, would this one be more likley to work. side note: last sunday i went to browns camp with the brat and had an s-10 blazer following me with bfg's. i went through a mud hole that a cr500r couldent get through and the s-10 followed and got stuck. i had to pull him out. we didnt get that on tape but the dude on the bike sure was impressed by the all mighty subaru.

do i have to switch the vacuume lines thanks for the bumper about a year ago Q-man (light blue for first gen with skid plate)

i wired it the same as the brat disty 1324, i did get it to idle better than it has ever idled before but it wouldent rev, do i have to change the firing order?

if your interested i have a complete turn key ea82t that i would like to trade for an ea81t

yes the answer is yes that the ea82t turbo can spew coolant like this, any of the water cooled turbos from the subaru to the mitsubishi to the detriot deseil.

ok i tried for about six hours last night to put a 2wd car disty in my 79 brat, needless to say it didnt work. i tried to line up the pick-up sensor with the tone ring and number one on top dead center, this all resulted in back fire out the carb and then i tired to retard from there and then it idled fine but the car wouldnt rev past 1100. I continued to try to tune by ear but that wasnt a sucsess. i have read somewhere that one of you guys did this before, any sugestions?

you can also check to see if your egr works

my 79 had the same problem as did my 78, i have found that when this happens it is usualy rust in the tank. to inspect pull the fuel sending unit on the fuel tank and peek inside. i had two tanks rust out before i got a good one. if you have rust and you cant replace the tank you can pull the tank and have a radiator shopboil the tank to remove all the loose stuff and runn a fuel filter off of a newer gm car such as a buick regal. it will filter smaller particals than a regular inline filter. if you need a carb i have a rebuilt one that i can sell cheep.

this is what subi had in mind when they bilt there first rig my brat has gotten me to work through the snow, ice, floods, mud puddles, and it tows out all the people in trouble on the way in with no problem. i abuse my 79 brat and it just keeps going (like a postal worker with an automatic)

I paid 600$ for my 79 and it had a two dead holes and a big spank mark in the left rear. but it also came with one doner brat and two doner wagons all 79 DLs but the brat that i drive is a dl converted to gl.

if you dump water down the carb do it with caution as you dont want to cause a hydro lock condition, and the seafoam stuff is a great product as well bu the GM stuff is usually cheaper depending on your area. you can also use that stuff for cleaning out your egr valve ports with the valve removed and the engine off. just soak the area to be cleaned for about 5min and scrub with tooth brush or wire coat hanger. I advise against the water though due to personal experiances on my only running vehical.

part number 7860

When i was searching E-Bay if found a set of projector headlights to replace the sealed beam head light in my 85 isuzu i-mark. this light is 6"x7" and should fit any of the subes with the single rectangle seald beam light, it takes an H-4 bulb which you can get in Hyper White bulbs or you can also hook in an HID balased and have the brightest lights you have ever seen. the light is made by US Auto Parts Gardena, Ca 90248 i got mine through K2 motor Corp. ebay@k2motor.com talk to this guy about getting some cost $42.00 and $19.95 SH

if you are worried about the tank then plug off all the fuel lines, evap lines and the filler neck after the tank is completly empty and dried out, you could also through a can of fuel dryer in the tank when it is empty to collect any moisture that may form, seal the tank well.

dieseling is caused by haveing hot spots in your combustion chamber acting as a glow plug which ignites the fuel in the chamber causing the engine to go around to the next cylinder and sinse a carb operates by engine vacuum sucking in more fuel it just keeps igniting the fuel. the easyest way to stop this is to do a top engine clean. you can get a can of GM top engine clean for about 6$ from the chevy dealer and it is the best for this job that I have found. it stoped my honda, subaru, and my dodge from diesling. try that and see if it helps.

you can also use paint stripper that you would use to remove larg sections of paint, its kind of a gel substance. subarubrat.com did this to his rig.

just the parts mentioned above and a portable grinder is nice but you can easily get to it with a hack saw and some creativity for the clearance issue. well worth the 40$ in my book.

you need the calipers, rotors, and backing plate off of an 87ish GL10 wagon or equivelent and you will need to grind a little off the top of the trailing arm to get the caliper on and you will need to grind a little off the botom to get the backing plate down. other than that it is a direct bolt on. you will need to plumb your own brake lines. I got my set up this weekend fron the wrecking yard for less than 40$.total bill was 40$ with trailing arms spindles and head liner and mirrors off the 80 brat that was in there.

i was down at the u-pull-it in damaskis on sunday looking for a brake drum and spindle for my 79 brat and the 80 dl brat there was already stripped so for sh**s and grins i took the backing plate and rotors off of an 87gl10 and bolted them to the brat in the yard, to my suprise they fit, all you have to do is grind a little excess material off of the trailing arm and its a direct swap to rear disc. ( this wont damage structural integrity because you dont need to take that much off.) total parts cost was 40.00 even for both trailing arms off the brat complete with tortion bars and spindles, both calipers. and both rotors off the gl10, and some other misalanios parts, including carb. I'm giong back next week to see if i can work somthing out for the fronts to get the ventid discs up front.

are you going to do the rear suspension too?

sounds like you really want the brat more than the wagon so I would get the brat, and if you want your girl to drive down the other wagon you should let her decide because i have run into the problem before except i acualy sold her car without asking.( it was in my name)

I you cant afford a lawer you might try going to your county court-house and see if they can provide you one based on need. also if it helps you can get documents/letters notorized at most big name banks and credit places as well as you local count court-house. let the usmb know the results if you do go after this guy and his company. You really are strongly urged to do all you can to him.

sounds like this mechanic is a hack and owes you a new motor and a new tire and he should have to pay to have your interior repairedas well as a new batery. this guy is seriously ripping you off and you should take him to small claimes court and get your car repaired by the subi dealer and send him the bill. if all else fails sit outside his shop and tell every cutomer of his how bad you were treated, (big BIG giant sign with some angery but polight words.)