climb1028

I agree but I am too far into the EA suspension setup. I did custom springs and all new shocks recently, it rides like a champ. Just put on 15" alloy pugs from a Peugeot turbo and mounted 215/75-15 BFG KO2's Trying to piece together an assortment of XT rear brake parts I bought from the guys at SSI. Unfortunately there are a bunch of parts missing not to mention I was sold two left backer plates... After spending DAYS trying to sort this out and get it all ready I think I just need the following: Caliper brackets that fit the wider, vented rotor. This rotor has 4 holes @ 90mm. Anyhow my hubs which are either from an XT(XT6?) or a Loyale Turbo (I'm not clear on this) are 4 holes at 90mm. The calipers I have seem to be wide enough to accept the wider, vented rotor (regular XT?) I rebuilt the caliper and just need the larger bracket. Rick at SSI is being super kind by offering to mop up a bit of the backer plate mess and re-drill the 3 holes in my 2nd left backer plate so it will mount on the right side of the car. If ANYBODY has some larger caliper brackets or can at least tell me exactly which car to look for donor parts from it would be much appreciated!!!! Thanks for the offer to do the hub redrill Scott. That was my plan but I got super lucky to stumble on a set of the alloy pugs out in CT. Getting them to Portland was an effort!!

I concur! I'm a relatively inexperienced suby mechanic and I managed to do most of the work of my EJ22 swap by myself. The help I had was mainly from Patrick and Drew in Portland who helped with the wiring harness. It ended up being a lot simpler than I was making it out to be but their experience and help was invaluable. My friend who welds made me a pitch stopper and custom welded the stock power steering lines onto the donor car's PS pump fittings. I used Scott's adapter plate. I had to customize the donor car's air filter box to fit on top of my stock one. I paid a radiator shop to braze on the larger in/outlets on a new stock EA radiator. But before I did that I ruined the headgaskets on the EJ22 from overheating and old age (hard to do, I know!) So after I had the motor in place I had to remove the heads, sand them flat and replace with Subaru head gaskets. I also went through as many of the engine components as I could (IAC valve, new belt tensioner and timing belts, new water pump, etc...) Lastly I sourced a 93 A/C system and brackets and managed (with the help of Mac's radiator doing the lines and charging) to get super cold A/C blowing in the Loyale again too! Oh, and I did the wiring and installation of the 2 cooling fans and the A/C components so they run off the ECU but have manual control switches on the dash for various hard driving situations. Anyhow, just wanted to relay my story and that I think the EJ swap is doable for a medium-low skilled mechanic (with the help of a few skilled friends!). My car just rolled 336,000 miles and as luck would have it I found a set of 15" allot pugs a couple days ago! Check out some instagram pics: @roaringcaballoblanco

OK! Success! After a couple full days of fiddling with everything I finally just sacked up and wired it to the ECU and fired it up. After a couple of snafus it all ended up working perfectly! The ECU sees my call for AC, bumps up the idle to about 1000rpm and a half second later gives 12v to the compressor and turns on the sub fan. Sweet!! I used fuses for all the AC wiring, I ran the power for the compressor through the pressure switch on top of the dryer/receiver and I mounted a nice fused bus bar and mounted the relays next to the battery. It ended up looking nice and tidy and I have an appointment with the AC shop tomorrow to get it charged up with 2 lbs of R-12! So stoked!! Just in time for summer!!! I'll try to post a picture of the final wiring schematic that I ended up wiring in as well as a pick of the engine compartment. It's not the most sexy thing ever but I'm pretty excited! Thanks for the help guys. Now I'm just waiting for my buddy *ahem!*PatrickAnderson*ahem!* to finish the 6 lug hubs and my Suby will be COMPLETE!! Ok, never really complete... tons more that I dream about... for another day. Maybe this fall after I'm all fat and happy from a summer of driving around with cold air.

Thanks guys. I can make everything just run off of relays, but I would rather have ECU integrated into the system so it can do the job of increasing idle when the AC is on and/or shutting off the AC under Full Throttle. I know the AC dehumidifies I just thought it only ran the compressor for defrost and for AC (cold air). Is it supposed to turn on the compressor ANYTIME I call for air in the cabin? My question about the ECU inputs still remain. Does Pin 60 need to see 12 volts when I call for AC and does Pin 31 ground the relay for the AC compressor, while Pin 73 grounds the relay for the Sub Fan? Am I missing anything? I just can't seem to find the table for my ECU (98 EJ22) that describes the operating voltages for all the Pins...

Thanks for the tip DaveT. After testing the two relays in the rear passenger corner of the engine compartment I think I found a suitable wire: it's a rather thick Green/White wire that seems to energize to 12v when I select any of the buttons on my climate control panel. I thought that A/C only was called for when I selected Defrost or A/C-A/CMax, but I will settle for the compressor turning on anytime I select air in the cabin. As you will see on my wiring drawing I plan to have a manual toggle switch under my dash to turn off A/C in case I want air to blow but don't need it conditioned. If anyone has any idea whether I'm correct with my Green/White wire choice as the A/C on trigger wire, whether my wiring diagram looks correct (I feel like I need some diodes in there somewhere but I'm not sure where to put them), and can anyone confirm whether pin 60 on my 98 Legacy EJ22 ECU needs to see +12v when the A/C trigger wire is hot and whether pin 31 goes to ground to turn on the actual compressor - much appreciated!!

No luck. I found a wiring diagram for my 92 loyale MPFI ECU and noticed it had a Blue/Yellow wire that went from the ECU to the compressor and also to a Fast Idle Adjustment Device solenoid. I was all excited when I found this Blue/Yellow wire (and a black ground wire) near the passenger side firewall in my engine compartment but it appears to be ALWAYS +12 volts when the car is ON. I get no change when I select or deselect A/C on my dash. There are 2 relays over there as well. I tested one and it didn't show any change when I selected A/C. I found 3 wires near the battery that I originally thought were for the stock A/C compressor: a blue wire that is always on +12v, and a green/white wire paired with a red wire at a connector that are both on +12v when the car is ON but both drop down to 0.22v when I select A/C on my dash... close! But opposite from what I'm expecting. I'm trying to find a wire that gets hot when I select A/C. Is there such a wire???? Or am I fundamentally mistaken about how I imagine things are working here? Does the compressor indeed need a +12v signal to turn on? Does my 98 ECU indeed want +12v signal input to Pin 60 when I select A/C?? I'm going to continue searching my Loyale over for a wire that gets hot when I select the A/C.... any help would be appreciated!

How did your A/C install go? I am finishing up the exact same scenario. Here's what I did: I found a 93 Legacy at the local PickNPull that had the older R-12 system in it and pulled all the parts under the hood (except for the condenser (a/c radiator). I used my stock Loyale condenser which I left in place. There was already almost no room in front of the engine and I didn't want the expense and hassle of trying to fit the Legacy condenser up front - it would have taken a lot of custom work and I was looking for as much of a plug-n-play operation as possible. I don't know how to weld yet so I'm fairly limited in what shop work I can do on my own... I had to go back to the wrecking yard and pull the compressor bracket from the 93 Legacy because the one I had in there from a 98 Legacy didn't quite fit the older '93 compressor. I also used the 93 Legacy belt tensioner. I think I got lucky with the compressor because it was in good shape and all the lines from the 93 donor legacy were pressurized with R-12 when I disassembled everything. I'm assuming that if you find a compressor laying around that hasn't been kept loaded with R-12 and has some rust on it, it's probably going to be bad. New compressors aren't cost prohibitive, maybe $150-250 I've been quoted. I installed the compressor and hooked everything up and ran the lines as neatly as I could inside the engine compartment. Keep the lines super clean and keep the ends covered with plastic to keep anything from getting inside them. I kept the fittings that go on the compressor attached. I got lucky and found that the high side hose (the smaller diameter one) that goes from the condenser, along the passenger fender and through the receiver/drier/pressure switch actually screwed right in to the fitting on my firewall. There were 3 custom fittings that I just paid a local reputable shop to do. They connected the low side coming out of my firewall to the large diameter hose that returns to the compressor, they connected the output line from the compressor to my stock condensor and the line coming out from the stock condensor to the small diameter high side line that I already described. They replaced the drier and all O rings. They flushed the system, pressure tested it and basically got it ready for me to finish the electrical work before they would charge it with R-12. Apparently (they claimed) that if they charged the system and sent me on my way without at least the Sub-Fan working properly when I turned on the compressor that temps and pressures could get too high and the R-12 could be discharged to the environment (bad). They charged me about $525 for everything which seemed a bit high but whatever, I can't weld, they did a thorough inspection and now if it leaks or goes belly up right away I can take it back and they should honor the work they've done. I've now spent the last day digging up wiring diagrams and trying to make everything work as close to stock as possible. The trick has been to try and get the 98 EJ22 ECU to run the show. I've found the Sub-Fan wire which should run a relay to turn on the 2nd fan when the A/C is turned on. (on my engine it's a Green/White wire from Pin 73 and is grounded when the ECU sees the A/C turn on). I found a Brown/Yellow wire that goes to Pin 60 and I think that's the trigger wire that should be energized with 12 volts when I push the A/C button on my dash. I'm going to connect it to the stock Loyale A/C relay and hope that I'm guessing correctly on this one. Hopefully it doesn't fry my ECU. My guess is that the ECU sees 12 volts on this wire (Pin 60) and does it's job: bumps up the idle a bit with an output to the IAC valve, then turns on the Sub fan and compressor a 1/2 second later. I'm looking for a table of my 98 Legacy ECU inputs/outputs so I can make sure that Pin 60 wants to see 12v before I go hooking it up wrong. Then I just need to find the Loyale A/C "ON" wire and get the relays all wired up for everything, install the slim sub-fan on the radiator and head back to the AC shop for a recharge. They quoted me about $200-250 to put 2 pounds of R-12 in it. Damn! I know it will be worth all the effort and money because last summer I drove across the country with no AC and it was miserable! My stick shift bellows aren't sealed at the bottom and it funnels super-heated air right into the sides of my legs, so on a 95 degree day it's about 105 inside my cabin! Then, god forbid, I have to run the ol' "redneck radiator" when climbing up a steep hill. I'll probably have to watch out for overheating and not run the A/C when I'm slogging slowly up a steep dirt road in 90+ degree weather but other that that it's gonna be nice and chilly inside my souped-up Loyale!! Yes!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3h8j6sXR813blBiY05haDVJcWc/view?usp=sharing I have a 98 EJ22 in my 92 Loyale Wagon. I put in a D/R tranny, gave it a 2-4" lift and just last week put on the stronger springs that JesZek suggested along with all new struts and all new 1/2 shafts. She's running pretty awesome! But first! I need my AC for the upcoming hot summer! I scavenged all the R-12 parts out of a 93 Legacy (compressor, compressor bracket, tensioner pulley, lines, receiver/dryer/pressure switch) and paid Mac's Radiator here in Portland a large chunk of change to mate all the fittings together and integrate it into my Loyale (so it hooks up to the Loyale condenser and evaporator. They also ran through the system, changed out O rings, flushed and pressure tested it. They said it's all clean, flushed, the compressor seems to work fine, the system holds pressure and they also replaced the drier. Unfortunately they wouldn't put R-12 in it until I re-installed the Sub Fan and got it wired correctly. So I've spent the day searching for all the different wiring diagrams for each donor car and locating most of the necessary wires from the EJ ECU. I already have 2 fan relays that I set up. Plus 2 slim fans, pulling from the inside of the radiator. The main fan is switched on with Pin 74, a Red/Blue wire that goes to ground when the engine gets to about 90 degrees C. I was told the sub fan is switched on with Pin 73 after an even higher temp is reached. Pin 73 is a Green/White wire that I tried to use for my 2nd fan. It never seemed to work no matter how hot I got the engine so I ended up wiring a toggle switch next to the steering column for its relay. My understanding now is that it (Pin 73) is grounded when the A/C is turned on. My goal is to get the A/C wired up properly, so that the ECU does what it needs to do: Kick up the IAC for 1/2 a second and then switch on the A/C compressor relay and fire up the Sub Fan simultaneously. I would like to run the compressor trigger line on the A/C relay through the pressure switch on my drier so that it has that as a backup safeguard as well. I will also run the toggle switch to the A/C relay ground so I can keep manual control of the 2nd fan as needed. Here are my questions: Where on my 92 Loyale can I find the wire that is activated when I press "Defrost" or "A/C" on my dash? Is it grounded or hot when I turn on the A/C? If it's hot like I imagine, then I want to run this +12v wire to the hot on my A/C relay, and to the compressor trigger wire via the Pressure switch and A/C relay contact? I am assuming that Pin 31, Blue and Orange will provide the ground to fire the A/C relay and turn on the compressor. I'm also assuming that Pin 60 receives a +12v signal from my A/C "on" hot wire when I hit the A/C buttons and this gives the ECU the heads up that I'm calling for A/C so it can do it's job. Right? So, yeah, my biggest questions are: Where can I find the A/C wire on my Loyale? and is +12v the correct voltage to input into Pin 60 on my ECU when I call for cold air? Hopefully my link above shows the picture I drew of what I intend to do. Can anybody confirm or deny my ideas??

I've been doing lots of work to my 92 loyale wagon over the past 6 years. I received the car free from a college buddy and since then I've: done wheel bearings, went through the EA18 engine and did the heads, put a D/R transmission in, new clutch, replaced all the struts, many front axle replacements, 2" lift all-around, 1" crossmember drop up front to slow the demise of axles, EJ22 swap, went through the whole EJ engine and cleaned/replaced all sensors, vacuum hoses and idle components, ran it for 1 week and realized that (beyond all belief) the heads wereally blown (probably from the donor owner but also compounded when it tool me a while to figure out the custom radiator/fans for the swap, pulled it and did the heads (again!). Whew! So I am finally on the home stretch and looking to get some decent tires on it, stiffen up the rear end a bit and improve braking power. I use it as a daily driver and for my paragliding school. I drive it on the beach and on mountain roads. So I'm trying to strike a compromise between reasonable tires and tough tires. I'm hoping that once I get 14" wheels I can find a 27" A/T tire with multiple ply strength that won't pop every time I drive on rocky roads. I would love the help if anyone has parts or advice for this last bit of my Suby project! I take great care of her, have a custom paint job on the hood and have named her Caballo Blanco. You can follow her on Instagram @roaringcaballoblanco Thanks!!

Ha! I had the thought that air pressure could explode the tank. If that happens I would expect to end up on the Darwin Award recipient list. Only 10 gallons a fill is almost as aggravating as exploding in a bloody mist so... Any ideas? @turbosubarubrat - did you say you had some tanks? Where are you located? In in Portland OR area..

I have a similar problem with my 92 loyale wagon that I just did an EJ22 swap into. When we first did the swap we removed all the evap lines and filter. I believe there were 2 fuel lines (supply and return) and a vapor/vent line that went to the evap canister on my original setup. The guys who helped me with the swap suggested I not worry about the evap canister and just hooked all 3 lines directly to the EJ22. For the next month I would hear the sound of 'popping' almost crumpling sounds and a big whoosh of vacuum air when I would remove the fuel cap. Around that same time I started noticing that I would run out of fuel but only get 10 gallons into my completely 'empty' tank (I was used to fitting about 13.5 gal in when I would run out of gas). So my guess is that the fuel pump created a vacuum un the tank when the vent line wasn't connected properly and it crushed the tank (plastic lined aluminum? ?) to a smaller capacity. Maybe something like this happened to yours? Does it always have a reduced capacity or is it sporadic? As for my situation, does anybody know what I can do? I attempted to stick the air compressor sprayer (with some electrical tape around it to make it seal better) into the tank filler tube which (not surprisingly) only resulted in me getting sprayed in the face with gasoline... Do I need to replace the tank or can someone with a better plan expand my tank to its former capacity?

Thanks Gary, I think you are right about the water pump, the new one *seemed* better than the old but after a day or two the overheating started up again. The old one felt solid and looked mechanically sound when I removed it. The new one did have a better impeller (expeller?) design. You do know my 1998 OBDII EJ22 is in a Loyale? Will I still have the same crazy easy time swapping the HGs as you promise? Cool, I'll get the Suby gaskets. Is the concensus still that I don't need to worry about warpage, crank bearing journals, lash adjusters, or anything else I might not know to worry about since I'm a noob. I feel like I've gone from greenhorn to noob and the amount of work I've done this past month has been in the 'ridiculous' category. I just want to nail it this last go and not miss anything. Last 2 issues: Wavering in power as I cruise at low speed. Occasional hunting and rough idle. (Im not getting any codes except O2 sensor #2 - because it's not connected yet - I can't for the life of me find anywhere the middle harness that runs between that O2 sensor and the connector in the hood.) AND the fact that my car now runs out of gas at 1/4 tank! That never happened before my original EA blew up in August. The car did sit in a driveway for about 2.5 months before I got to putting the EJ in...

The head gaskets are blown. Yes, my EJ22 has blown head gaskets. Finally saw the tell-tale bubbles in the radiator fill neck tonight. I probably made them worse with all these test drives which ended in multiple overheating episodes. I guess I will pull the engine, take everything apart and go get the heads pressure tested. I am getting some mild ticking noise which I assume are a couple hydraulic valve lash adjusters sticking. I switched to full synthetic oil a few weeks ago and I hope this (and the fact that I never continued to drive very far after the engine overheated) has spared my lower end. I will test each lash adjuster and replace any bad ones. Subaru or Six Star head gaskets. Reuse the bolts. New intake manifold gaskets. Reuse exhaust gaskets. Anything else? Oh and I mentioned that I saw oil on the piston circlip of the hydraulic timing belt tensioner when I took it apart to replace the water pump. I'm getting a very slight wavering in the power band as I accelerate or hold even speed. Is this a symptom of the tensioner being toast?

Never mind. Everything's still $#%ked. I think I'm going to have to admit that it has bad head gaskets. Moving is going to have to wait another week or so while I figure out how to change head gaskets in this EJ22. I'm going to try it without pulling the engine because I don't have a picker. Hell, I don't even have a garage to do it because I had given notice at my house figuring I'd be long gone by now... Anyone in Portland area want to help with a head gasket repair? I can pay for your help!

Yes, I luckily stopped by a very reputable subaru shop here in town - Superior Import Repair - and the owner advised me on that. I was going to get the top of the line O'Reillys one at $27 but he had 6 Star brand with integral seal that he said is OEM sized and quality. So I finally figured it out. It was the water pump! Even looking at all parts of the old one after I removed it there is absolutely no indication it shouldn't work other than, well, it just didn't. The impeller is a slightly different (chincier) style than the new one... Also, I'm very proud of myself for figuring out how to add the coolant and not have ANY airlock issues, first try. I disconnected the upper radiator hose from the radiator inlet. Then I held up the upper hose as vertically as possible and kept it as filled up with coolan/water as possible. Slowly adding coolant directly into the engine and keeping the 'head pressure' constant for about 10 minutes. When the coolant started trickling out of the upper radiator hose I knew it was golden. Sure enough, no burping necessary, engine runs well at all loads and speeds and fan kicks on when it should (my alternate fan wiring scheme seems to be working so far...) Sweet! Hitting the road for Santa Barbara in my newly minted 92 Loyale wagon, D/R 5 speed, OBDII EJ22 with 2" lift and 1" body spacers. Her name is Caballo Blanco. She runs fast and straight but she'll climb any hill and buck you off in a hot second if you don't reign her in. Thanks for all the help everybody! Oh, and buddy mechanic Pat says my #1 O2 sensor which was unhooked was probably causing my hesitating/bucking/stalling issue.

Yes, I luckily stopped by a very reputable subaru shop here in town - Superior Import Repair - and the owner advised me on that. I was going to get the top of the line O'Reillys one at $27 but he had 6 Star brand with integral seal that he said is OEM sized and quality. So I finally figured it out. It was the water pump! Even looking at all parts of the old one after I removed it there is absolutely no indication it shouldn't work other than, well, it just didn't. The impeller is a slightly different (chincier) style than the new one... Also, I'm very proud of myself for figuring out how to add the coolant and not have ANY airlock issues, first try. I disconnected the upper radiator hose from the radiator inlet. Then I held up the upper hose as vertically as possible and kept it as filled up with coolan/water as possible. Slowly adding coolant directly into the engine and keeping the 'head pressure' constant for about 10 minutes. When the coolant started trickling out of the upper radiator hose I knew it was golden. Sure enough, no burping necessary, engine runs well at all loads and speeds and fan kicks on when it should (my alternate fan wiring scheme seems to be working so far...) Sweet! Hitting the road for Santa Barbara in my newly minted 92 Loyale wagon, D/R 5 speed, OBDII EJ22 with 2" lift and 1" body spacers. Her name is Caballo Blanco. She runs fast and straight but she'll climb any hill and buck you off in a hot second if you don't reign her in. Thanks for all the help everybody! Oh, and buddy mechanic Pat says my #1 O2 sensor which was unhooked was probably causing my hesitating/bucking/stalling issue.

Ok. The saga continues... Suddenly started running after Timing belt was put in. Thought maybe I had nailed it. Warmed it up. All good. Drove to the gas station. 1.5 blocks from home it suddenly is bucking and studdering. No power. Dies when I hit gas... Tow it home and stare at it for 3 days. (Actually just chased down a bunch of wild leads that I saw from previous posts on this forum. Never could actually find good information on my engine 1998 2.2 - resistance values for Ingition Coil, sensors, etc...) Suddenly it's running again. I drive it around the neighborhood. Then around town. Then go to take it to Hood River (about 60 miles). I need to drive this car to Santa Barbara (about 800 miles) in a few days (was supposed to leave Nov 1 but car has not been running right/reliable enough...) A short test trip is in order. It ends up overheating about 2 miles from home and I spend the next 3 hours in 40 mph gorge winds (around 20 degrees out) stopping it everytime it overheats, letting the pressure in the cooling system drop, open the radiator and top off what had blown out the reservoir cap. After about the 8th time this night it started running well and ran well all the way to Hood River (about 45 miles). Ran for the next morning in Hood River. Then decide to take it to Maryhill (about 40 miles from Hood River) and suddenly it's doing it's overheat routine again... Limp it back to Hood River and it does the studdering and die trick. DOA on Oak Street in Hood River. Went to the bar to get drunk. Next morning - it fires right up, runs well, no problems. Drives all the way back to Portland and only overheats when I pulled hard on the freeway for a mile and then started up an uphill offramp. Happy to see my ODBII bluetooth adapter showed up in the mail. Got that set up and it ran a laundry list of codes: The main one being my #1 O2 sensor. It had not been plugged back in the last time I put things back together. Cleared all the codes, warmed it up and went for a test drive. Going down the freeway at 60-65 for about 6 minutes with no problem then suddenly the Torque App shows the cooling temp spike. Heater quits blowing hot air. It quickly hits 251 degrees on Torque. (Good thing it's the 2.2??!!) I pulled over and did the usual routine to cool and top-off. Drove it slowly on side streets back home and it stayed at normal operating temp. I'm going with Water Pump. I'm an idiot for not just replacing the water pump when I did the timing belt. I deserve these next 3 hours which will be me doing the timing belt all over again and putting in a new water pump... and new radiator cap. As soon as this thing runs well and doesn't overheat when pulling hard I'm driving to Santa Barbara. Thoughts? Pat says the O2 sensor not being plugged in can cause the bucking/dying.

Thanks, that's not a stupid question considering I'm no mechanic and probably very capable of doing stupid stuff. But yeah, I used the little tic/indent marks on the front lip of the pulley where somebody had previously put a spot of paint. These are about 15-20° after the arrows. I don't have any tabs at the back of my pulley. The mark on the driver's side (left?) pulley is in the trough between teeth. The mark on the pass pulley is aligned with a tooth. The mark on the crank is super obvious but it's hard to see with my A/C compressor and hood latch in the way. I was suspect of these weird indent positions until I removed the old belt and the faint white lines printed on the belt in fact aligned on a belt trough and tooth respectively. Then when I got the new belt the marks were slightly offset (not exactly over a tooth and trough) and the middle mark at the crank was a mumble-jumble of arrows and dashes that also didn't really align with the trough... Then after all that confusion with the belt on and the tensioner released the best I can get it is to perfectly align the driver's cam pulley mark, note that the crank mark *appears* to be aligned from my obtuse viewing angle, and yet the passenger side pulley is off about 1/3 the distance between the teeth. It's on the 1/3 side of things closest to being aligned correctly. And I believe this is the same weird way it looked when I got the engine and ran it for 1.5 weeks with no problem. My mechanic buddy Pat suggested frozen or broken fuel lines. The engine trouble did exactly coincoincide with our first bout of freezing weather. Maybe after leaving my Loyale sitting around for almost 2 months before putting the EJ in it accumulated some water in the lines/tank? I'm going to get some Heet or similar water remover and put a heater under the front of the car. I'm still getting 0 psi on the fuel pressure tester. I sure would be happy if this was just a simple frozen/broken lines issue. (This is where it really pays to ask those 'stupid' questions!)

Yeah, the $5 Torque app and that bluetooth adapter seem like the way to go. I'm impatient and didn't want to wait a couple days for it to arrive from Amazon. I'll order one now because my troubleshooting has been hitting many dead ends. I was wigged out by the weird looking alignment on the cam pulley marks and crankshaft alignment mark so I removed the fan I just put on, the radiator (gonna save the fluid this time because they are charging $15!! a gallon of Prestone these days and I can't afford to spend $15 bucks everytime I take the radiator off), the accessory belts and changed the timing belt. Didn't take too, too long (maybe 2 hours) but aligned with a new belt on the marks and it still looks weird. IDK... It's like 1/3-1/2 tooth off and the best I can tell it's on correct. I spun the engine a couple times by hand and then cranked it over but it's still not firing up. SOooooo... I installed the Fuel Pressure Tester I borrowed from O'Reillys and turned the car ON. I hear the fuel pump buzz from the rear of the car but nothing shows up on the Fuel Pressure gauge. I turned it over for a couple seconds and still absolutely nothing on the gauge. My buddy Pat said to try and put a couple ounces of gasoline in the throttle body, reconnect the air intake hose and try starting. If it fires up for a few seconds then the fuel pump might be the issue. I poured a bit of gas into the throttle body, put the intake hose on and turned it over... no fire. So the O'Reilly's Fuel Pressure gauge doesn't work??? Or maybe I'm not using it correctly?? Seems pretty straight forward - Put the adapter in line in place of the fuel filter, connected the screw-on gauge hose to the adapter fitting. Hit the pressure bleed button once to make sure it was reset. Turn on car, turn over engine. Read gauge. Am I missing anything? I was really excited that it might simply be the Fuel Pump but since the gas-in-the-intake didn't produce any coughing or attempts at starting I am more inclined to thing the stupid O'Reilly's gauge doesn't work or I'm not using it right. I pulled the camshaft position sensor. It gave an Ohm reading across the terminals similar to what Chiltons describes for the 1996 Legacy (mine is 1998, I hope that doesn't mean differently calibrated sensors.) I forget what now that I'm inside from the freezing cold - 4k Ohms if I remember correctly... I pulled the connector off the TPS and tested Ohms between terminals 2 and 3 with the throttle in fully closed and fully opened positions. It says it's supposed to be 12k Ohms and 5k Ohms, respectively, in the 1996 Legacy Chiltons. I got 4200 Ohms closed and 750 Ohms fully open. So it sort of works but it is off by almost an order of magnitude. Anyone know if the Chilton's is correct? I searched this forum for like an hour last night trying to find the resistance values for the ignition coil and never found what I'm looking for. The SubaruEJ22 ServiceManual.pdf that I keep finding online is for a 1992 Legacy and I don't think is helping me with correct values for my 1998. Dudes, everything sucks, nothing works - I can't even tell if the instruments I'm using to test or the numbers I'm supposed to be finding when I test are accurate! This seems to be going nowhere. I was supposed to MOVE TO CALIFORNIA 2 weeks ago and this car has been screwing me over and sucking the last of my savings for the past 2 weeks.

Tried to troubleshoot the EJ22 today. Got as far as testing the resistance on the Ignition Coil Chiltons says the resistance between plug wire posts 1 and 2 should be about .6-.8 ohms. Same for between 3 and 4. It also says the resistance between terminal connectors should be about 20k ohms between 1 and 2 and same for 2 and 3. Since mine were nowhere near those values (I first went and tested my Ohmmeter against a known brand new resistor, it was fairly accurate), I went to Pick-N-Pull and when I finally found one on a EJ22 I tested it only to find.... same values which are nowhere near what Chiltons prescribes. So back to square 1 on the testing. Someone mentioned fuel pump in a PM. I will rent a fuel line pressure gauge from O'Reilly's and see. If anyone in the Portland, OR area has a OBDII tester I'd love to borrow it.

Mind if I ask for concurrent help with a similar problem and same engine? Just did 1998 EJ22 swap into my 92 Loyale. Stoked. Ran it for 1.5 weeks with no problems. The only thing I did between it running fine and suddenly having problems was wire in the radiator fan #1 It ran fine for 10 minutes, then started stuttering on an uphill climb onto the freeway. Ran well for another 5 minutes. As I exited the fwy and started up a small incline from a stop it started bucking and stuttering really bad. Gas pedal made it worse. Turned engine off and after 10 minutes it started and ran another couple miles. Stuttering began again and then just got worse and worse. Left it overnight and now it is back home but won't start at all. Here is my troubleshooting so far: Checked all plug wires - connected. Checked all engine wiring harness connectors - all connected. Checked for all vacuum lines and intake hoses - all connected and tight. Checked fuse for ECU - good. Checked fuel pump - it hums for a second when I turn the ignition on, then hums for a second after I stop cranking. I think it's good. This also shows ECU has some functionality. Checked all plug wires for spark. #1,3 and 4 all had good, strong regular spark. #2 wire had weak or nonexistent spark. Checked timing belt and cam sprocket positions - It appears to be in the same configuration it was in when I got the engine (which ran for a few seconds before I pulled it from the donor car, and ran for 1.5 weeks in my Loyale) This configuration looks odd to me but it worked for a while and I'm no expert so maybe it's actually fine. It's a long description so I'll wait and see if anyone thinks this is a problem b4 describing. Swapped out the current ignitor for another one I had picked from the junkyard - no change. Is my weird fan wiring a red herring? Or could that cause a problem somehow? I pulled the fuse from the fan circuit early on in the troubleshooting. I just pulled the fan relay and made sure I had everything hooked up right (well, right for my weird way) and that the relay still worked properly. It's a NO relay RC-2219 which I salvaged from the donor car. I believe it was used as a headlamp or rear defrost relay previously. Thanks in advance. I had searched the forum and someone with similar symptoms in their EJ22 was told to check the cam position sensor. I will do this as well as check the coil pack and plug wires resistances tomorrow after I track down a working ohmmeter. I also don't have access to a OBDII tester and the car doesn't run so I'm not sure when/if I'll get a diagnostic test done. I didn't wire up a CEL but I could do that and look for CEL codes I guess... My main question I guess is can someone conclusively say the odd fan wiring was the problem. I know it's odd but the ECU side of the relay is exactly how it should be done (+12v to one spade and ECU Fan wire to the other) and the only thing different is the switched side is switching the ground from the fan instead of switching +12v to the fan. I don't see how this could cause any problem, especially after examining the relay and seeing that it was in good working order. Secondary question = anybody know what's up or what I should check/replace next? Thanks.

Yes! That's an even better idea - I'll just slide the current boot off enough to be able to hammer the DOJ onto the stub, then slide the boot back on and clamp it. No, I'm not sure the stub is twisted, that was just the only idea I had as to why the DOJ wouldn't slide on. You're right though, it's probably unlikely... Perhaps the splines were compromised (dinged, dented, chipped) at some point. The folks at Les Schwab tires suggested removing the wheel hub from the end of the axle and just hammering (carefully, with a block of wood or drift to absorb the blows, of course) the thing until it slides onto the stub all the way. I'll probably try this first before I unclamp the boot and get grease everywhere. I'll post back when this is finished and let folks know what worked...

After sucessfully doing 4 or 5 axel swaps, I've encountered this same 'fused' stub shaft and DOJ problem... Getting the old DOJ off the transaxle was tough - I had to use a prybar and much foul verbage. (This should have been a red flag that the stub shaft splines were possibly twisted and that getting a new one on would be just as difficult - or worse, as it turns out) I've gotten it about 1/2 the way pushed onto the stub shaft and it is absolutely fused in place. The real problem is that I can't really tap or pry it on since the large diameter portion of the rubber boot is covering the only edge of the DOJ that I can access/hit/pry on. I don't want to destroy the boot just to get the DOJ on flush. I am going to try PB juice, heating it up, and more foul verbage. Then I'll take it to Les Schwab and have somebody with decent tools give it a try. Does anybody know if driving the car with the DOJ only halfway on will hurt the stub shaft, DOJ or CV joint? The two problems I considered were 1) The half-axle is slightly compressed (by about 3/4 inch) so perhaps this will put more stress on the DOJ/CV joints as they go through their motions during turns and when hitting bumps. 2) Since the DOJ is only grasping the outer 3/4 inch of the Transaxle stub shaft, under acceleration it might further torque or twist the stub shaft splines.. this of course, would just further aggrivate the problem of getting the thing on at some point in the future. Solutions: Is it possible to access and replace just the stub shaft? (this is the passenger side of my EA-82) I know the half-axle is good since it came off my old suby. I also considered taking the inboard boot off. Viciously hammering the DOJ case onto the trans. Then cleaning up the lost grease, and regreasing the DOJ and adding one of those split boots to the thing. ANy suggestions???

OMIGOD. I just tried to remove the old lighter plug, socket and facing from my 91 Loyale and it was damn near impossible!! I feel like a complete hack as I have now done some damage to the plastic facing next to the lighter hole. I finally got it out only after complete crushing and deforming the old lighter socket. Even after examining the rusted remains I was still unable to figure the 'blooming' thing out, until an epiphany occured just this morning - read on: The outer, black metal, rectangular frame which fits into the dash is not supposed to be removed (mine was rusted out so I did anyway). Behind the dash is the outer metal socket which is firmly attached to the black frame. Leave that in place as well. At the tail end of this socket you will find a larger threaded ring. By unscrewing this ring and then pulling the wire plug off the rear terminal, you *should* be able to slide the inner metal socket (and white light ring) out the front of the dash. If anyone has anything to add or ammend to this description please let me know. (I'm now contemplating doing an entire interior/dash/trim/panel/carpet swap with the grey interior from my black suby... the bright blue-on-blue is kinda giving me a headache and since I marred the dash getting the old lighter out, I might as well, right? Anyone done this swap before??)