blitz

I'll make you a deal; spot me a half dozen of them Vicodin, and I'll do a headstand in the snow while I take take measurements ...no complaints. I don't believe that I'm forgetting anything. I own a both 5-speed manual and a 4EAT so I'm well aware of the differences between the two. I can tell you that my 4EAT car is FWD except for three conditions: 1. Front slippage. 2. "1" gearshift selection. 3. WOT Your statements are contradictory. Either the Subaru system is brilliant, advanced, and highly sophistocated - or it's deficient in some way and needs to be modified. Which is it?

Any decent multimeter will have measurement for both frequency and duty-cycle percentage. I'd gladly grab my Fluke 87 and snag the measurements, except for the fact that: 1. It's currently 16 *F with 4" of snow and ice on the ground. 2. I have no reference for which is the DS C signal wire. Much the same way that I don't understand why someone would put clothes in a dryer then select "Less Dry", I don't understand why anyone would want to set the clutch for anything less than full lockup in a slippery driving situation?

Andyjo, have you got a high-res version of that picture of the OBS climbing the hill? I could dig adding it to my collection of really cool Sube photos.

I'll agree that based on the product description, that's what one is led to believe ...I sure was. I dunno, maybe it's just my particular car but the rear clutch action seems to have two modes: on and off. I think there was a TSB for certain models based on customer complaints for this "toggling", harsh, rear engagement behaviour. More of that Sube software thing. I wasn't being clear, it functions AS a preload. The 90/10 is default to keep any rear driveline slack taken up. If the clutch were allowed to completely relax out to 100/0 when inactive, it would really bang every time it kicked back in.

As long as the engine is running, the tranny pump is turning. The only difference between N and P is the engagement of the parking pawl. I knew the knowlege base was bad at the Sube dealers but this takes the cake.

I'd be willing to wager that someone manufactures a PWM IC in complete form. All you'd need to build is a buffer/driver. I'm not sure that I see the advantage to varying this parameter manually tho. IMO not locking the clutch fully would just tend to promote wear. It kinda seems like the Sube algorithym that engages the rear pretty much toggles between two modes: OFF w/ preload (90/10) and ON (50/50). I never perceive any "variating" going on. When the front slips, the rear goes "bang". The idea of the toggle for auto/on selection is a good one.

38?????? :eek: Holy crapP! Those weren't Imperial gallons were they?

Actually, an audio speaker/amp combination operates more like an analog stepper motor, especially in a system using large amounts of negative feedback which lowers the effective system source impedance to the point where mechanical inertia (resonance) is overcome and the speaker is being accurately "positioned" at points along it's travel. A hard-drive head IS positioned by a stepper motor.

Everything I've seen so far would indicate just the opposite - e.g. supplying power to solenoid C would fully interupt clutch hydraulic pressure and give FWD, whereas dissconecting (switching open) the solenoid C signal wire altogether would allow full hydraulic pressure. Someone correct me if this is wrong. I've wanted to do this on my car for years - too much front slip happens before the rear kicks-in.

I've never gone to college and as a result, it's not really makingany sense to me. How about offering up a layman's version?

OK, just did a search. http://www.airaid.com/spacers.asp Aluminum spacer fits just under the T/B and has a "Tornado" spiral cut into it. According to the unbiased scientific research, the device imparts a mid-range boosting vortex action which carries on all the way to the cylinder. Buy three and get a free fuel-line magnet.

I think I've seen the spacers used on the GM TBI systems. Apparently there's some quirk on those that benefits a small amount from the addition of the spacer.

I don't think I've seen anything like that offered for Subaru. By what method does it add power? Thermal isolation? Extra plenum area?

Regarding the studded vs studless, the general wisdom is that studdable tires are relatively poor ice performers unless the studs are actually installed. However with studs installed, they're untouchable. The tradeoff is that they get to get slippery on dry and wet pavement at highway speeds.

Mark, are the harder pads "harder" on the rotors?

I too noticed an airy-er tip-in feel to the fuel-injected cars initially, although I don't notice it anymore. I think I've just gotten used to it.

Better mileage AND more power? :lol: That's a tall order.

Noah, please check your PM.

I guess a person either sees it or they don't. I'd bet a dime to a donut that some company already has a patent on a parking meter system that uses RFID technology. Your car a ain't movin' until you swipe your Socialist Homeland Security Card (or Smart-Dust implant). Being "pulled-over" by the cops (or robbers) is gonna take on a whole new meaning shortly.

Subaru ceratinly doesn't make a car that's any worse than anyone else, which is exactly the problem: IMO they've been resting on their laurels. To me the best thing about a Subie is the feel of the boxer motor, the good balance of the car, and the AWD. Maybe my '02 is just a lemon, but on top of the rattles, squeaks, noises and software glitches: 1. The transaxle is leaking leaking from both the L & R front halfshafts. 2. One or more of the front engine seals are leaking out of the cam cover. 3. A/C compressor oil is spinning off the front of the A/C clutch. 4. Black flakes are keep forming in the coolant o'flow bottle. At 55k miles, it's about on par with the Griswold Family Truckster. It's definitely no worse than that.

CR used to be almost like the bible to me, but I think I'm begining to see the light. :-\ I actually do check out the Tire Rack reviews from time to time. It's possible to get a decent feel about a particular tire by reading a large enough cross section and paying attention to the type of car and number of miles driven. IMO it's likely that certain tires can excell in specific size ranges but not necessarily in others. I wonder why Tire Rack doesn't sell Nokian?

Was checking out the Consumer Reports Tire Test yesterday. Not everyone is fond of CR's test methods or results but there's gotta be a certain value in what they offer up. There's a whole lotta quality rubber out there that no one's ever gonna know about on account of how few they actually included in the test. CR must be working on a small budget or something. To me the big surprise was seeing the Michelin X-Ice at the top and the Hakka RSI waaay down the list. The X-Ice is new, but what's up with the poor showing from the RSI? That's the one that everyone on USMB raves about. Mods: feel free to move this over to general if need be.

It's been replaced by a leash ...one that's quite a bit shorter than is readily apparent at the outset (e.g. the RIGHT to freely travel - without exception, etc.).

I'm drawn to any incongruence of colors or logic, then I just instinctively twist it harder. Call it a weakness.

It's supposed to be set at a half volt plus or minus a tenth for '00 & '02 (sorry no data for '97). The ECU uses this voltage threshold to determine and toggle between idle & part throttle modes (no physical idle switch). There's no performance gains in moving it.