blitz

Yeah, the EG-33. In many ways one of Subaru's finest moments, sadly not widely appreciated. All the goodness of an EJ-22 but 50% more.

Eww... They should've put a part of the budget toward saving the car from being a victim of it's own butt-uglyness instead of trying to squeeze that last 50 HP out of those restrictive single exhaust port heads.

Keith, I'm pretty sure it cuts fuel completely off when coasting down (engine braking) off-throttle. I'm not sure exacly what RPM the fuel turns back on at ...seems to be around 1200 RPM.

Setright, it looks like that big license plate blocks a lot of airflow.

Assumptions are generally bad but interestingly this thread brings up two assumptions that are always safe to start with. 1. Auto-trans repairs shops are rip-offs. 2. Electronic problems on cars are bad connections. If those rules don't work, then move on to the exceptions.

Just had another thought: Maybe the the dipstick is reading wrong and the crankcase is overfilled. The PCV valve would suck all the whipped-up oil mist out of the crankcase and straight into the plenum.

Keith, I agree with Cookie. I just can't see any way for such a large amount of oil to find it's way up into the intake manifold unless one of the PCV hoses or couplings are completely blocked or mis-routed. I'll confess that I've never understood what is the purpose of the center hose coming off the airbox going to the "T" fitting.

I've seen it but click on the "spec" link for each type and you'll see the numbers are identical. The only thing that could concentrate the reflection into a narrower (and thus brighter) beam would be the reflector (not part of the lamp). "Filament control"? WTF?!?? I think Sylvania is pulling a fast one.

About a year back somebody on USMB presented a fairly reasonable case that in order to maximize the fuel efficiency of a diesel, a long connecting rod and a long stroke would both be in be in order. Stuffing it transversely into a passenger car would strip away a sizeable amount of that advantage. I could've just been making all that crap up, but it sounded good.

This thread kinda reminds me of a congress-critter we had (still have actually!) back in '73 (Dingell) who was howling 'bout how it would be impossible to reduce the emissions on passenger vehicles and how it would never work and blah, blah, blah... He cited whole a littany of "facts 'n figures" to blowster his case, but in summary basically made the claim that it would result ultimately in the demise of the US auto industry. Well as anyone can clearly see ...since he was mostly representing GM, Ford, and... ...y- y'know????? Sona*********ch, it appears he was actually correct all along.

BTW, I never got a reply from SylOs with an explanation about the differences between the standard and Xtra-Vision lamps. Frankly I wasn't expecting one. :-\

Over the last year or so I've been seeing individual stories of 2.5's with abnormally high oil consumption like yours. I'm beginning to wonder if it isn't due to a small batch of motors that left the factory with mixed-up seals.

Well yeah, there's no cap to crack, but I'd say rotten plug wires would be a pretty good first guess. Fire up the engine when it's dark and humid out and take a look under the hood. You'll probably see and hear a spark show when you blip the throttle.

re; the little button in the center: Sometimes it just gets gunked-up and stuck. If that's the case just clean the entire cap really well with detergent and a stiff brush. Just be sure to rinse it completely afterwards.

And soon, no handguns. No thanks.

The underhood is incredibly clean, especially for an 13-14 year-old car! It doesn't look like it knows what road salt is. Friggin' salt.

Retrace your steps carefully. 1. At what point during your servicing did the knock sensor code appear? 2. At what point did the engine begin to idle real good, but not rev above 3200? You gotta determine whether the above problems are related to one single mistake you made, or unrelated symptoms of two separate mistakes. Maybe one is completely unrelated to anything you've done. Check the connection to the knock sensor, maybe you knocked it off. I know the DOHC motors can be a chore to do a timing belt on, but the SOHC aren't too bad ...just keep the marks lined up vertically. It helps a lot if you highlight the 3 marks on the block, highlight the mark on each of 2 pulleys /1 gear, and highlight the 3 marks on the belt ...all with yellow paint. A clogged cat can limit power and RPM the way you describe.

Subaru's don't exactly get blazing mileage to begin with, but even if you manage to keep it out of boost on the freeway, the lower C.R. on the turbo motor is gonna return lower mileage than the normally aspirated version. Then like Nipper says, if you dip into boost, it drops even more.

I was just thinking the same thing. The dude would probably complain about his "deathtrap boat" leaving him stranded with a malfunctioning stern-drive after running it onto a sandbar. :-\

Yeah I clearly remember that look (like rust). I gotta say that the fuel quality at the BP/Amoco I frequent is excellent. If pull the plugs at 10k miles just to have a look-see, the ceramic and electrodes both are spotless with just a tinge of tan & green. The source of the green is a mystery to me. I run premium in my regular-speced 2.5 because it knocks on regular. 93 gives me enough headroom to bump the timing by about 5 degrees and still remain below the threshold of knock in mid-summer.

99OBW sorry if you missed my intent. I wasn't being critical of your info, only adding to it. Knowing that the octane number can be had by more than one means goes a long way towards explaining why some folks swear their regular-speced engine runs "crisper" on premium when others claim just the opposite. Bracket racers would use MMT-laden premium fuel to slow their cars by a tenth or so after running their dial-in on regular. Maybe they still do, I don't know. Don't drink on new years everybody, a hangover is the worst way to start a new year.

I've seen a lot of disparity on this as well as the subject of the "burn rate" of premium being slower than regular. I'm no fuel expert or chemist, but I'll share what little I've learned. Apparently it depends on how the octane is achieved. If it's done by addition of metallic salts (TEL, MMT, etc.) the ignitability and burn rate are interfered with somewhat. US premium currently uses neither, but instead blends more aromatics (tolene?). As far as I've been able to find out, it doesn't burn any slower or faster, but does resist self-ignition and does vaporize well so can aid cold-starting. I think Canada still uses MMT to build octane. I'm not sure about any other countries.

trxeslr66, to effectively diagnose & repair a modern F/I system you need to have a copy of the factory manual, a decent multimeter, and a code reader. If you query the CPU for clues then learn how to measure for requisite operating parameters (voltage, current, resistance, etc.), you'll save money and keep your car on the road. If you twist on adjustments and replace parts blindly, your gonna throw money down the drain and horse-up the system beyond what a normal mechanic can put straight, especially if you can't describe to him exactly what you've done to it. Mechanics hate working on stuff that the customer "worked-on" first, because it tends to mess-up the natural order of how things fail. I understand that the person you took it to initiated the CEL, but his cleaning may have merely unmasked a latent problem that was already there. What you're doing is making it worse ...much worse.

Feel for system pressure by squeezing the top hose. There are bad Fuji rad-caps out there.

I just sent this letter off to their automotive products division answer guru: Comparing between identical lamp number-types of OSRAM SYLVANIA "Standard" and "XtraVision", the specifications chart on your website lists identical values for lumens, wattage, and colortemp. What are the differences between the Standard and XtraVision lamps?