blitz

I'll tell ya ...the Impreza II platform's proven itself to be durable and versatile, so it really wouldnt've been THAT far-fetched to actually pull it off. It would've been a logical extension of the US auto industry's perverse business-model of making trucks more "car-like". (at this point my foregone conclusion is that the Koreans will have a runaway hit with the radical idea of building trucks which are more "truck-like".)

Shawn, my '00 OBS has single-port exhaust. The info on non-interference is well-taken.

Actually my "easy on oil" comment was in regards to oil life, not oil consumption. Long drain intervals tend to lull drivers into NOT checking the level regularly. My second comment was soley to distinguish between belt failure and idler/tensioner failure. I see horror stories all the time about the idlers/tensioner failing. Even if the engine is non-interference, the idlers/tensioner can still fail causing the belt to jump time. Since there'll be no investigation, no one will ever know what happened to your engine.

Some funny comments on this thread! IMO it looks so bad it's almost cool. Obviously inspired by the success of the PT cruiser and the release of the HHR, Subaru unfortunately is once again following rather than leading. Honestly I was waiting for GM to stick a miniature Hummer body over the top of the Forester and call the H4 (get it?).

The EJ-22 is probably the easiest on oil of any engine ever made, although it's not unusual to have a bit of consumption on certain individual Sube motors for whatever reason. '96 is interference right? If so, the answer is most likely contained in your observation above ...engine began jumping cam timing in steps, one tooth at a time, until it banged a valve with a piston. The torturous film-projector path through the idlers/tensioner is the major weak link in an otherwise stellar motor, and if any one of the idler bearings goes out, the belt looses proper tension. Maybe it holds timing for a little while, maybe it doesn't. You're not gonna know what happened until you pull the motor apart.

Josh, Am I seeing a pair of temp sensors in that photo (the green being the overheat idiot-lamp switch)?

I'll admit my cam comment was conjecture, based on the smaller displacement motor having different (lesser) airflow requirements. I could be completely wrong.

Along with the smaller valves choking the top-end HP, you'll be condending with the EJ-18 cam. As you say, the combo of tall compression and small ports will will give you tractor torque between 2000-3000 RPM.

Make sure the lamp and assembly mounting is physically snug at all points otherwise you'll have a situation where the filament is really getting rattled around as you drive, especially if you have bad roads like Metro Detroit. That'll shorten the lamp life a whole lot. I always been tempted to believe that that the name "Detroit" was derived from the word Detour. Also check the system voltage with the engine running at a least 1500 RPM. Bulb life is inversely prorportional to operating voltage. 10% increase in voltage can cut bulb life in half.

Right on. Borrow a meter if you need to. Also, solder the connections, then put heat-shrink over the top. Don't be tempted to twist the splices. If you just twist the splice with a wire nut (or whatever), over time it'll develop resistance as oxygen and salt-water work their way in. O.T. You wouldn't know how I can get the emoticons for posts back on my monitor would you? I have a new computer and I'm struggling with the look of things. Without emoticons I come off like a bigger wongleflute than I really am.

Well actually "universal connector" does not imply that any specific manufacturer color code is adhered to (and occasionally manufacturers make substitutions within their own color schemes). Now this is just me, (I own an electronic repair bus) I'd never do an electrical repair with out a multimeter to check continuity/voltage, etc. anymore than I'd cross the street without without checking for traffic. Making assumptions about wire identity doesn't get it. Now you tell me: Can you do it?

The spliceability of wire is well-established. I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you asking whether or not that you yourself are capable of doing the splicing?

EJ-18 BORE 87.9mm STROKE 75mm EJ-22 BORE 96.9mm STROKE 75mm ------------------------------------------------------------------- I can't seem to dig up any combustion chamber volume specs, but both engines are running the same block with the same stroke, only the bore dimension is different. I'll make that leap to rump roast-u-me that the EJ-18's chamber would have a slightly smaller diameter to match the smaller bore of the EJ-18 piston. Math isn't my strong point, but since the 2.2 piston is pushing 1.215 greater displacement upward the same distance means that it would increase the CR by 1.215? If so, that would bump a 9.7:1 CR up to 11.8:1 Unless I missed something, that doesn't seem too shabby.

The "spark" and "compression" terms are almost universally (mis)used, your hardly the first. (I'd use smileys here, but I just got a different 'puter and now the durn things don't show up in the box to the right anymore. If anybody knows how to get them back, I'd appreciate the info.)

S = ServiceC = Commercial http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf _ _

OK, here's what I've gathered: The "premium" (more expensive) system is the one that doesn't give an AWD handling charateristic on the road and has a lower track record of reliability. Do have it right?

Yeah, that was my point about the handling difference. The manual trans is applying driving torque to both front and rear axles at all times via the center differential (with any wheelspin overload being moderated by the viscous clutch), whereas the 4EAT is front wheel drive and only clutches-in the rear after front wheelspin occurs. The "10%" static setting on the rear is just a preload to take up driveline slack (makes the rear engagement event less obtrusive).

I'm gonna ask the question that I'm sure many Sube owners have wondered about: Why two AWD systems? Personally I like the viscous clutch system better than the electronic transfer clutch. The electronic clutch system doesn't give a true AWD handling characteristic and also has that irritating (dare I say dangerous) delayed and sudden rear-engagement. Aside from blatent abuse or improper towing, the viscous unit doesn't seen to have the reliability issues of the electronic clutch (binding, et. al). Supposedly the electronic system gives better fuel mileage, but I'm not seeing it. If it were true, why not use it across the entire Subaru line regardless of tranny type? CAFE point are precious. Which brings me to my second question: Why didn't Subaru do it the other way around (viscous on A/T)?

I have a brand-new Fuji Subaru cap sitting here that's defective ... it happens. The little button in the center wasn't sealing - so pressure wouldn't build and the system would boil. Sounds like you have just the opposite problem (the little button isn't allowing any coolant return).

Good advice to cover any potential future problems that could develop. To put your neighbor's mind at ease Peter, a lot of name brand fuel injector cleaner products are primarily fuel oil (jet A). At the worst, I'd say the cat and O2 sensors might have some soot on them, which will burn away after a good long highway drive to get the cats up to temp.

I doubt that any damage was done. The tank would need to be drained and re-filled with gasoline. The fuel line(s) and the fuel filter would need to be purged. I'd think that removing the line that exits the far-side (passenger-side) fuel rail and briefely turning the key would allow the fuel pump to purge the diesel out of the removed hose and into a container. The return line will puge itself back to the tank once everything is re-connected and the engine is started the but that small amount would be OK. You may wanna get some other opinions besides mine.

The GL-4 vs GL-5 in a Subaru debate rages on. MT-90 is one of Cobb's top recomendations. As it is, Sube trannies are a bit reluctant to shift, but the MT-90 made a huge improvement in mine over whatever what was in it when I bought it used (probably factory fill). The tranny wasn't completely filled with an even number of bottles of MT-90, so I had used some 75W-90NS that I had lying around to top it off. This way I have a little bit of gear-protecting, synchro-eating sulfur in there as well.

Like Josh said, you need to kill the mold spores that are growing in the evap coil and ducts. Not only does it stink, but can make you or others ill (allergies, head cold, etc). Some folks aren't affected by it. Shutting off the A/C before you arrive at your destination to allow the evaporator and ductwork to warm up to ambient will lessen the spore growth (which occurs after you shut the vehicle down after A/C use).

Software programming glitches are a part of the Subaru experience. They really need to get someone on that tho. Too many benign but annoying behaviors of throttle, ABS, 4EAT, knock sensor, etc. It's a pattern - not a good one either.

I think it's safe to say that a pink Cadillac won't hold a candle to a Subaru.