blitz

If I'm reading correctly, the shockproof stuff has an actual viscosity and what Redline calls a greater equivalent protection owing to a unspecified solid high-pressure additive. According to Redline: Red Heavy Shockproof has a viscosity of a 75W-90, but is equivalent in protection to a 75W-250. Blue Regular Shockproof has a viscosity of an SAE 30 motor oil, but has the equivalent protection of a 75W-140. Yellow Superlight Shockproof has a viscosity of ATF with equivalent protection of a 75W-90. **** ******!

Ferret, that's interesting. I've been using the mustard Superlight Shockproof in my rear diffs this last winter and can feel MUCH improved rolling resistance during that first mile on those cold mornings. I also swapped-in the blue Shockproof in the front diff on my 4EAT car with good results. I'm gonna have to give this some thought.

Only thing I can figure is that Subaru (and all SAAB's too?) have the thermo located at the point where the coolant returns to the block whereas the ECU temp sender is closer to the outlet. I'm guessing the higher reading at lower ambient is normal. **** ******!

'00 OBS 5-manual 3000 RPM = 69 MPH '02 OBS 4EAT 3000 RPM = 73 MPH **** ******!

Well damn, if I admit to running a 50/50 blend of MT-90 & 75W-90NS does that qualify me as a brilliant strategist, a spineless fence-rider, or just a ******* *******?

NS = Non-Slip. It's the same as the regular 75W-90 except it's not friction modified. This info is from the Redline website. **** ******!

As far as I know, 75W-90NS & MT-90 are both "high friction" (non friction modified) 75W-90 lubes. The only difference between them that I can find on the Redline website is the presence of sulfurous high-pressure hypoid additive in the NS. This is good for the diff gears, but corrosive to the synchro metal in the trans ...take yer pick. **** ******!

This is a good point. Oil consumption through the rings is a smokey affair, especially during high-vaccum coastdown followed by immediate application of the throttle. Consumption through PCV or guide seals is mostly not visible. This level of consumption'll shorten your cat-con life. **** ******!

In Troy that would be Suburban right? Even their parts are too pricey. If you need parts, go to Hodges on Woodward in Ferndale. As far as service, I can't help you ...I'm looking for a top-notch Sube-qualified mechanic myself. If you find someone, pass them my way. **** ******!

Jake, how many miles on the engine? **** ******!

Mostly I've seen people say they use it regularly without problem, but I've also seen strong concerns to the contrary which is why I brought it up. I wasn't debating the issue, just asking your opinion. I like to pull my plugs at 10k and look at 'em, gap 'em, and throw 'em back in, so I've never had a problem with 'em sticking. **** ******

That's one of the best jobs of fitting stuff into a tight compartment I've ever seen. Masterful.

My questions are keeping you awake now?

Setright, if you get a chance, post the new bore & stroke specs. I wasn't aware that those dimensions had changed ...I'm curious. Up till now, all 2.5 have been: 99.5mm x 79mm **** *****!

My guess is your clutch is worn and the slipping will become more prevalent as time goes on. The heat is expanding the pressure parts just for now. **** ******

The concern that I'd read about wasn't actually plug failure, but rather just high electrode & insulator temp. Basically the same symptom as installing a plug with too high a heat range or not torquing tyhe correct plugs to proper spec. Copper is supposed to have good thermal conductivity tho. If anybody knows the answer to this, please check in. I'd like to know.

Cookie, in regards to the anti-sieze on the plug threads, I'd seen cautions against doing this on account of the compound acting like a themal dielectric causing the plug to run hot. It sounds good, but I can't verify it. Maybe it depends on the specific anti-sieze. I'd think that the copper high-temp stuff would actually aid heat-transfer.

I've had brand new tires pull a bit. My solution has been to throw them on the rear 'cause it seems like the problem goes away after the cord loosens up.

Subarus don't comsume excess oil as a rule, but there are isolated reports of consumption just like yours. I haven't been able to find an explanation for it. The "normal" comment is part of a standard answer that all dealers have. It's based on an allowable specification given to them by the manf.

I'm thinking that a lot of Big Easy seriously flood-damaged cars are finding their way onto lots right about now, so be careful. Car's that are so bad that they're created from several car's salvage. Carfax is crap, dont trust it. My BS detector is saying run from that car, don't walk. ESPECIALLY if they cave on the price. Always be ready to walk on a sale. The minute you start developing an emotional bond to a car you know nothing about is the moment you get suckered.

Return that favor now and tell me that you have possession of the replaced defective parts.

Hatchbacks can develop hidden leaks that are severe where the entire well almost fills up and begins to rust. I had it happen once where the water was migrating through the vertical sections of the weather stripping. It was almost like a hidden river. I fixed it by removing the stripping, then filling the attachment gap at the bottom (the feature that fits over the sheetmetel lip) with RTV, then putting it back in place.

Yeah, one of the byproducts of combustion is water, some which goes past the rings into the oil. If the oil doesn't get hot enough, long enough to vaporize the moisture, it forms emulsion, acid, and sludge (in that order). The idiot "temp gauge" rises to normal before the coolant is actually fully warm. On a really cold day, you'd have to go another mile before the coolant is really full normal, another 3-5 miles before the oil is full normal, then another 10 miles to clear the moisture really well. In other words: a nice brisk 15 mile highway sprint once a week. Get some full-throttle acceleration runs in the middle gears in there too near the end, to clear the carbon out of the combustion chambers and cats. Check your PCV system anyway, because it can go down either way. to wit: A plugged PCV can milky-up the oil in cold weather, or milkied-up oil can plug the PCV system.

The tranny overfill's not a problem, but the milky engine oil is. First check to make sure your PCV system is working. Second, if you make frequent short trips that never get the engine up to full temperature for any length of time, then make it a point to take an extended (preferably highway) drive once a week. Last, keep a very close eye on your coolant level. If coolant is getting into your oil, your bottom-end bearings are gonna go bye-bye in a hurry. You could do a used oil analysis to check for glycol and/ or sodium. Don't ignore this problem.

I get the same pop in the same spot on my '02 OBS when turning the wheel right, except that it happens when straightening out after having made a sharp left turn. I have no idea what's causing it.