blitz

There's definitely something with the fuel. I calculate the mileage every fillup, so I'm in tune with the charactisteristics of each of my vehicles. e.g. I know that if it's 1 mpg higher for one tank that it's about 2 lower for the next on account of the fill-up shutoff point not being consistent and all that stuff. I have a sidestreet that I go down in the morning for a gentle warmup, that's how I know the gauge is moving up slower now. My first thought was sticking thermo, but both of my Subes are doing it. I just put it together in my head this morning. **** ******!

Stations around here previously listed ethanol on the pumps (which I avoided), but with the recent "pro ethanol propaganda" in full swing, I'm assuming it's addition will now be transparent. No, other than the usual thick-lube & stiff sidewall drag in cold weather, I've never experienced a sudden jump in mileage based on the seasonal gas blend change. **** ******!

The BP where I fill my vehicles switched to a different gas formula about three weeks ago. The switch coincided with the changeover to summer blend, but based on the smell, it's an entirely different formulation than what's ever been available before. Two things I noticed: 1. Temp gauge climbs a little slower in the morning (very slightly). 2. Fuel mileage INCREASED. The smell and the cooler combustion would fit for ethanol, but the mileage increase typically would not. The pump doesn't list it as containing ethanol (Is is required to?). Anyone else had this experience? **** ******!

Bottom line is the EJ-25 is loaded with bad kharma. A veritable witches-brew of bad design & poor judgement all rolled up into one really swell ball o' crap. :-\ :-\ It forced me to buy a second car (yes an EJ-22). I've had bubbles and black flakes in my overflow for the better part of two years. It hasn't gotten better or worse in that time. **** ******!

I like the premise of the assertion, but as a logical droid, I must play the devil's advocate. The tensioner has two active components: 1. Spring tension. 2. Hydraulic damping. A bad batch of tensioners found their way onto a limited number of EJ-25's resulting in a TSB. The problem was lack of hydraulic damping which allowed the tensioner to bounce. This differs from the assertion that the tensioner lacks adequate spring tension by design. I ask; if the tensioner in general has a lack of tension by design, then why are the EJ-22's not having the same gasket problem? **** ******!

Other than the fact that it appears to be running out of air when the throttle blade is closed, how does it run during normal driving? (Just go down the side street and back, since it's not legal) Also: How many miles? Service history? Any traces of mocha/latte-colored slime showing up on the inside of the oil-filler tube or under the cap? **** ******!

That's attempted murder. I almost bought the farm on a Kawasaki H2 once when some clueless, thoughtless, brainless, hairless, jerkoff motioned that it was OK for a third party to pull directly into my path.

Slow down ...you're tripping over your thoughts. When did the problem begin? **** ******!

Check all your rear lamps. The licence plate ones are guaranteed to be out. **** ******!

Sube's fit fleet-oils ("diesel awl") like a glove ...couldn't tell you why tho. If I lived in a warmer climate, I would't hesitate to use regular ol' 15W-40 dino fleet-lube year round. **** ******!

I use a little "remote grabber" thingy. It's sorta like an inverse choke cable with a spring-loaded thumb plunger at the operator end, and four flexible steel "fingers" at the work end. The fingers grab onto stuff when the you release your thumb off the plunger. I've had it for so long that I couldn't even tell you where I got it from. **** ******!

All-in-all I think it's pretty damn cool ...the bad news it what probably signals for the future of energy prices. **** ******!

If you want to open the big creaky door to peer inside my head, go here: http://home.flash.net/~blitz/tunes.html **** ******!

I had to re-read your post. This is what I saw the first time through: **** ******!

No, usually I'll just start it up, put my foot to the floor and let it bounce off the rev-limiter for a minute or two to chase all the air out of the system. Then I blip the throttle repeatedly for 15 minutes or until my neighbor looks out his back door, whichever comes first.Actually I was referring to anytime I check my oil, but the case has been solved by Frag. **** ******!

You mean the half quart or so of nice thin pre-heated oil that rushes out of all the main galleries as soon as I unscrew the filter? Amen to that. **** ******!

I drain it when it's almost fully hot so it drains more thoroughly. Usually I'll let it sit just for a tad before I get started. That'll let it cool just enough so I don't burn my hands and allows a little time for the oil to drain from the galleries down into the pan. **** ******! (I'm a Dipstick)

Thanks Frag. I was wondering what the hole was for. **** ******!

Mmm... fast-forward ahead a couple years to when auto dealers are all wailing and gnashing teeth over having been displaced by a more "efficient business paradigm". It can't happen soon enough AFAIC. Reminds me a little bit of General Motors. The elephant is in the room, but Elvis has left the building. **** ******!

The oil capacity of my 2.5 is listed as 4.2 US quarts. After an oil and filter change, I'll put in 4 qts., but rather than showing .2 qts. below the full mark on the dipstick, it reads about a half quart over full. I check the level with the oil at normal operating temperature, but I'll usually pull the stick and wait 5 minutes for the dipstick tube to "clear out" before checking the level to avoid false smearing. The ground is completely level. Anybody else get this on their vehicle? **** ******!

Thought I'd add something that affects the heater's effectiveness: wind. The heat-dissipation of all-aluminum construction (plus the large surface area of boxer 4 layout) allows wind to pull heat out of the block as fast as the heater puts it in. Engine blankets are a pain but will keep the heat in really well.

Sometime yes ...sometimes no. Example: the iridiums with the full-size center electrodes are rated at 100k miles, but if you read closely the manufacturers sites you'll see that the fine-electrode iridiums are rated at 30k miles - same as a standard plug. In this case the advantage is lower ionization voltage (easier firing) and less mixture shrouding. **** ***A**!

Clarify one thing: you actually checked the FUEL TEMP sensor, or you checked a different sensor? My first guess is the timing is being retarded by an ECU "safe" default mode.

Any dealer will be able to order you a factory engine manual. I ordered a service manual for both of my subes and familiarized myself with all the sensors and their operation before I did any work under the hood. The IAC & the TB both have adjustments, but they're factory set to a specific measured airflow. To the best of my knowledge, neither are user servicable items. If you changed any of these settings, I wouldn't be able to help to get them back to where they were. **** **R***!

I'm with Scoobaroo; learn to live with it and be perpetually disgusted by it, just like the rest of us. **** ******!