Buddythedog

I have a 92 Loyale with 150K on it. All bone stock. It runs great, leaks oil, gets 30 mpg , no problems but one. I live at almost 8000 feet, and it pings like crazy on heavy load (uphill etc), more so when I use the AC, which is rarely, but the dogs like it. I've tuned it up with Bosch platinum plugs, new cap, wires, etc.... The timing was set at 20 btdc, which is what the hood sticker calls for, don't know what else to do but maybe retard the timing just a little?? Only other thing is when it's warmed up and idling, it makes popping sounds from the tailpipe, not loud, the same level as the exhaust sound just a popping or a sputtering, exhaust valves???

I doubt it's an air leak because: 1) intake gaskets rarely fail because they're not subjected to heating and cooling because they only manage cool air. and 2) you could test this by letting the car idle, and getting a propane torch (UNLIT) and holding the propane closely over the intake area, if the idle goes up, i.e., the car is sucking in the propane via an intake leak, then I am wrong and there is an intake leak, however if nothing changes in the idle, no intake leak. Also, these injectors can be prone to clogging because they are the bank closest to the fuel filter and therefore would be the first two to suck in any crap that's gotten through the $$20 filter, sadly, that wasn't the case with my car:banana: .

Sorry about that. People, including mechanics will disagree over the validity of this test, but I have read it in some very old publications, and older men that I know swear by it, using it back in the 50's, 60's etc. On a "normal" car, one without engine issues, try this; start the car and let it idle normally. Place a dollar bill (or whatever bill you want) over the tailpipe, no more than an inch or so away give or take, it's not that scientific. The result should be no fluttering of the bill, it should be "pushed" straight out, as if in front of a fan. Now, with your car, or one with exhaust valve issues in question, the bill should be sucked in, blown out very rapidly, and produce a fluttering effect. These engines are notorious for burning these 2 exhaust valves, and I think it was a defect, because Subaru recommends that the valves be shimmed, or adjusted at 105k, and my dealer mechanic told me there are a lot of these problems. I got mine done privately, and the car runs beautifully, better than when I bought it. Please let me know if the trick works for you.

I had the same problem with my Outback, same codes and everything. I replaced the injectors, as cleaner did nothing, checked the plugs, wires, coil, etc... It was a death sentence for my car. It was a burnt exhaust valve(s) on that side of the engine. These engines are prone to it, sadly. Get it checked pronto. Dealer recommends a valve adjustment for $1000.00 at 105K. Listen to your exhaust, and do the dollar bill trick over the tailpipe, it's ancient and people laugh, but it does work. Good luck, cost me 2100.00 (plus a new clutch while the motor was out)

In a perfect world, I'd go out and harvest my $$$ and buy only OEM, but since I drive an 11 year old Subie (which I love dearly), I've found that Felpro work just fine. My car leaks with Subie gaskets now, so the others can't be worse.

Everyone is right, check for fuel, take the line off and turn the key to on and it should spray out a bit, do this after it's run through the filter, I haven't heard of any getting so clogged that no gas gets through. If'n you have gas to the throttle body carb, good. Pull a plug wire at the spark plug and turn the engine over, if you've got spark, your timing belt is ok, because your rotor is turning, or just pull the cap, have a buddy crank the engine over and make sure the rotor turns to test the timing belt, if it doesn't move, that's your problem. Report back

Not wanting to insult your intelligence, but, being new to the Loyale, are you sure it's in 4wd and the light is not lighting? This happened to me on my 93 Loyale when I bought it. Sometimes you can't hear it engage, or feel it for that matter. Push the button and make a few turns (slowly) and make sure it is/is not really engaging. Maybe it's just the light connection under the stick shift. The others people responding have way more technical knowledge than me, but as my dad always said, when you hear hoofbeats, don't look for a Zebra....

I was looking at the lake of oil covering my oil pan all the way back to the tranny. It seems to be coming from my oil pump on my 93 Loyale. It may also be coming from the oil pan itself, seeping from the gaskets a bit. What is entailed with a) replacing the oil pump, is it hard, what needs to come off? and same question re: the oil pan, it looks like all the p/s hoses run under the pan. After I take the skidplate off, is it a nightmare??? :confused:

I'd like a little of both. I think, in my experience of living in Mississippi first (sea level) and living here for many years, the mileage seems to be the same at tltitude, thanks to engine computers that regulate fuel and air flow, but I wanted a little more power and better mileage. I'd be with more mpg's as gas ain't cheap anywhere, much less here. I do find my car does not like anything less than 91 octane, or it pings like crazy. I had an expert Subie mechanic re-time it when he did the t belts and water pump, and he set it at 22 btdc.

Yes, up high as in altitude (ha ha) Anyway, I was wondering if anyone drives at or above 8000 ft elevation give or take. I have a 93 Loyale, and am getting about 28 mpg in town 32 hwy ( a little less in winter) Any ideas of what I can do do get a little more pep out of "The White Pearl" ? I was thinking about NGK's ( I currently have the Bosch double platinum which I have been told are a phony re: performance) and an Accel ignition. The rest is bone stock. :wave:

I too have a 93 Loyale, and I offroad it in New Mexico and Colorado, up to 12,000 feet, so I'm working with A LOT less horsepower than you are, and I'm fine. My power ain't great, maybe I could outrun a bear, maybe not, depends on how mad I've made him. I plan to put in a hotter ignition, not sure on the airbox though. If you plan to offroad, buy good tires, check your driveline often, and have fun. I've NEVER had problems with mine, and I've owned Jeeps before so I know how to off-road.

Just pondering...... What are ya'll getting mpg wise in your Loyale's and Gl models? What kind of plugs are best in these cars, and is there any noticable difference in plugs with performance and a better coil ie., Accel, and what should I expect to see. My car runs very, very well, and I don't want to screw it up, just enhance what I got. I'm using the Bosch double electrodes, and am getting almost 400 miles to a tank on the hwy, 320-340 in town, and it's cold here too!!!

I don't know that I'd run 20-50w oil in your car, 'specially in the winter, I didn't see where you lived, but unless it's Miami, I'd think that would be too thick. I use 10-30 in the winter. I have had good luck with the Bosch double electrode plugs, but my car is slightly newer (93)

Funny little story, my wife and dogs and I were in the Jemez Mountains (in northern New Mexico) for a day of hiking. Dogs had to pee, so I drove down a snowy, muddy trail for a bit and saw 2 guys staring at a hopelessly high-centered '03 Chevy pickup. They had tried everything to unstick it, including spinning their wheels to make some holes deep enough so their tires barely touched ground. I asked if they needed me to pull them out (in my shiny white 93 Loyale w/ snow tires). They laughed. I said forget it, call a wrecker, then I'll be laughing at your bill. They said ok, within 2 minutes I pulled them off their hill. They were amazed at me, my wife, and my dogs ----oh, and at the mighty Subie!!! My wife no longer makes fun of my Loyale as compared to her Outback, which is in the shop:banana: :banana:

Not that I don't agree with preventative maintenance, I most certainly do, but, if you expect to take your car to a shop for a tune up, the 20$$ timing belt won't mean crap when they charge you 300$$ to put it in, much less flushing fluids out of your diff's. Change the plugs, wires, air/oil/fuel filters, pcv valves yourself should you desire. If you have the knowledge, definately drain your tranny/diffs, replace that fluid too. The timing belt is a pretty big job. Re; the brake lines, thermostat: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

This is kind of a lame eternal spark plug debate, but what the heck. I used the NGK v-power plugs, and gapped them to 42, which is what my manual said to use (between 39 and 43 I think). I went through a tank of gas and noticed that I got 40 miles to the tank less than with my Bosch's. I wasn't pleased with the NGK's at all. Maybe they're great plugs, but my car seems to like the German ones better. Go figure.

By the way, why don't any of my dash lights work? The clock dims when I turn on my lights, but my dash is black as night (literally) when it's dark out. All my fuses are ok, everything else works. The only interior mod is a cd player that the previous owner installed (thankfully) otherwise how my dogs and I listen to all that Johnny Cash? :confused: UPDATE: I have a 93 Loyale, the tail/brake lights are all ok, as is everything else electrically. I had already swapped another dimmer module in, with no luck. That silly light button thing for daytime lights works fine. I may try replacing my tires with fresh air next.

I got a wild hair and changed my plugs to the NGK V power in my 92 Loyale aka: Subafly. Anyhow, they seem to suck. My power went down even more than when Subaru designed the engine. as did my gas mileage. I put in my Bosch 2 point plugs, and my car is happy. Any ideas of whether or not to use a hotter grade plug ? I have 148K, no oil burning, healthy engine. I did notice the electrodes were whitish colored though. Whats that about?? Update: I did check the plug gap, set it at 43, the upper end of what the manual said. They may work really well. but I already noticed Iwas getting about 40 miles less out of a tank of gas, oh, they're the v-power plugs.

My Loyale, and all the ones here in Northern New Mexico that I see, the Left headlight is filled with condensation. I took the thing out and applied sealant around it's perimeter. Nada. Silly question, but any answers, it just really bothers me.:boohoo:

please help me I love my Outback. that said, It has 120K miles and has had a tune up, plugs, wires, filters, et al. It runs poorly, hesitates, only getting 20 mpg with a 5 speed. I pulled the plugs and found the #2 plug has a grey burnt looking mark on the ceramic (yes, they're platinum plugs) and a matching mark inside the spark plug boot. Yea, thought I. The mechanic also said that the compression for the #2 cyl was 70. He tested #1 and it was 125. He left the plug wire on the #3 cylinder, as he couldn't get it off. Would that affect the compression test? He could only get 3 of the 4 plugs out. I plan on replacing the bad plug and all the wires. The remaining plugs only have 10K miles on them, and ain't cheap. Any advice for me? Don't want to pay for a 2K valve job HAPPY HANUKKAH & X-MAS!!!!!!!!:santa: UPDATE:::::: CRAP. The hideous bile colored glow of the dreaded CHECK ENGINE light is once again illuminating my dashboard. Why oh Why does is still say Cyl 4 misfire? The compression was fine, I checked it myself, the dealer mechanic lied to me to make a couple of grand. I replaced the bad plug. Car runs smoother, but after a day (40 miles) of driving, it came on again. The car does still run rough at idle, but otherwise fine except for bad gas mileage. What do I do? Check the coil pack? :banghead: