The Beast I Drive

I would have to check the properties of WD-40, but if it is conductive, then I would assume he fried the ignition modual in the disty. Or something to that effect. WD-40 does displace water, but you should always check on stuff like that before you use it on electronics and make sure it is NON-CONDUCTIVE, otherwise it could be worse than water my .02 -Bill

One ne on the fenders, while pre-77 Gen 1 fenders will probably physically bolt onto the car, the bodylines are different. I believe it was 77 or 78 that the body really changed, where the lines on the side of the car got mellowed out and became more curvey, and the front turn signals were moved to the fender corners. I have a 72 Tailgate wagon and a 76 4wd wagon, as well as a collection of 78-81 Brats with which I make my comparisons and reach my conclusions. So far what i have seen, I could easily swap my 72 DL grill onto my 76, as well as the fenders, doors, and most of the interior, it all bolts into the same places for the most part. None of the body/trim pieces will swap onto my Brats, or a stage 2 wagon for that matter, well they may swap but they wont match the body lines, even the door handles are different! The interiors might swap, but dont quote me on that. Drivetrain components are completely interchangeable though, the basic platform did not really change until 1980 when the 2nd gen chassis came out. As far as stages, I believe most refer to the stages as the actual body changeover, which was 77 I believe. So Pre-77 would be Stage 1, and 77-79 and Brats 77-81 would be Stage 2. Engine/trim/chassis stages are another story -Bill

Those rims look pretty good, whats wrong with them? Im guessing the clearcoat has been gone for years, and there is probably light corrosion in areas? Probably just need a good sanding/polishing, then have them re clearcoated really good, with like umpteen million coats, then NEVER use Mag wheel cleaner/polish on them again, only soap and water or other paint-safe cleaners. -Bill

What rims does it have again, I forget IIRC, you have Turbo alloys or something?? Those might take a lot of stripper, polish, and elbow grease to restore, depending on what shape they are in now. Ill PM you about the strut -Bill

I myself love all the Gen 1s, but the Stage 1s are just a more stylish, classy rig, IMO. BTW, nothing says fancy like fake woodgrain -Bill

IF you decide to go with an EA series FWD auto, subaruguru has a 2wd 3at from an 89 DL that still shifted great and was overall still a good working trans... Just in case. Personally, I hate you (jk ) because you have the car I want sooo badly, and I am about to build the perfect motor for it I would go old school, but Hot Rod style. I love a restored, un modified rig, but I totally dig a well-thought out and well built hot rod even more, which is why I totally dig Kostamojen's FF-1 project Im not much for modern power, but if you can make it look right, in addition to run like a bat outa hell, then go for it. But if it would just turn out looking like a hack job with a rats nest of wiring under the hood, then I would have to give a big thumbs down. Its all in how you execute the idea onto the actual vehicle that will make it or break it. Your car has a lot of great potential, and when its done it will turn heads anywhere it goes, and will be a pretty classy vehicle, and i cant wait to see it finished! -Bill

I wouldnt call it bigger, I think it just has more of a bulbous, rounder shape to it than the rather flat-sided Stage 1s, Id have to take some measurements to see whether or not they are actually bigger. The most noticable differences to me are the Stage 1s generally have the turn signals under the front bumper or in the grill, whereas the Stage 2s have the ones that wrap around the corner of the fender (Gen 1 Brat). Also the stage 1s have that stylish seam that runs the length of the body, where the stage 2s dont have such a noticible line there, its rather subtle. Overall I think the Stage 1s are a bit cooler in that there is a little more style in every part of the car, compare interior trim like the door handles/trim and stuff to a Stage 2, and you see that the stage 2 stuff just isnt as fancy-feeling, the Stage 2s are much more utilitarian in feel. -Bill

Here's the bumper strut, its not as pretty as yours, but I can clean it up and repaint it if you would like, the passenger side one was in better shape until I damaged it when I got PO'd cuz the bumper would not come off... -Bill

The body lines on the stage 1 cars is different from the stage 2 cars, but most of the drivetrain parts will interchange between stage one and stage 2, but your car should have a special engine crossmember and exhaust being a Dual Port 1400 car, the steering rack should be on top of the crossmember instead of under it. As far as interior parts, I cant really tell you what changes and what doesnt, but I know that all the door handles are different on Stage 1 and stage 2 cars. Stage 2 cars are the same body as the Gen 1 Brats. -Bill

73 Coupe is a Gen 1 stage 1, and one of my favorite body styles Im gonna start lookin for one to replace my RX. I really want a GSR :slobber: but any coupe would suffice for what I have planned -Bill

Damn dude, looks like you could use a little more tread Good tires make a HUGE difference, it was like night and day when I put the Maxxis BigHorns on the Beast after running bald Toyo A/T's. Looks like some fun stuff there! -Bill

Im gonna pull those bumper struts off my hatch after I eat, so I ll have pics this evening. Glad that you got the votage drain figured out (apparently) -Bill

Hpefully your noise isnt the same noise that ended like this -Bill

Did you try replacing the ignition switch? Just the part that screws on to the back of the lock cylinder, I have a few spares i could send you if you want. Also, what did you jump the fuel pump to, a switched power circuit or a constant power circuit? Prolly shouldnt power wash you engine bay anymore -Bill

the rear diff is called the rear diff. Apparently you have an open diff, as in its not an LSD. So just call it a rear diff. Does sound like torque bind, so insert the fwd fuse and see if it goes away. If it goes away with the fuse in, then you will know the problem is with the center diff in the trans. If it doesnt, then you have other problems -Bill

Ah yes, I remember reading the thread about that one. That was the first thing I thought about when mine lit up. Mine wasnt an electrical fire though, it was massive mechanical failure of some kind, Ill have to investigate, but it looks like the Turbo might have blown on the compressor side. I think you had it worse, you lost a Brat, Id be devastated if any of my Brats burned like that -Bill

I would replace all the hoses and flush the cooling system thoroughly, flush it with some kind of detergent that will break down the deposits. The hoses split is more than likely because of age, it happens. Also maybe look into some kind of programmable temp switch for your fans if you think they arent coming on at the right temp, I think that what Connie did with her little coupe. Good luck! -Bill

I guess if i look at the upside of this, I came up with some body modifications i would like to try out on my next coupe project, seeing as how I can clearly see all the joints and structure since the paint is gone... The car is still an inspiration even after its soul has passed from this world. -Bill

Probably a head gasket leak, has the car been overheated? Any leaks on the ground, or in the passenger compartment? Is the radiator cap working properly? -Bill

The rims are all ok, passenger front is a little discolored, and the rear tires are ok. Looks like the fuel pump fried in the fire, and I decided it was just easier to punch a hole in the tank and drain it than try to remove it with 14 gallons of liquid still in it. The firemen got the blaze extinguished just in time, had they been 5 minutes later the tank would have exploded, the gas cap was beginning to melt as they put out the flames. It prolly would have been a spectacular explosion though... I hope this never happens to anyone else on here, its really really hard to sit there and watch as your pride and joy dies while you wait for help to arrive, unable to do anything. The helpless feeling is the worst. Im definitely going to be investing in some extinguishers for my other rides. -Bill

83 would have the torsion bar rear suspension, no springs at all. There are a pair of torsion bars inside the rear crossmember that act as the suspension. -Bill

Liability and bodily injury insurance. The car itself is not covered. Honestly who would have thought I would need full coverage on a 21 year old car? so basically, Ive lost a little over a thousand dollars in this ride, I paid 400 for it in Port Orchard, put in the stereo, replaced the motor with one I already had, and spent countless hours fabricating the exhaust, the rear lift, maintainence, just bought brand new tires for it (about 300 bucks, but 2 of them are still good and I had to good spares) the wheels with hubcaps are still good, but its just so, demoralizing. It sucks. I really did like that car, and I had big plans for it with the wheels already set in motion. Now I have nothing to put my shiny new aluminum centerlines on Anybody have a cheap EA82 coupe or RX they want to part with? -Bill

Well here are the pics of the aftermath (total destruction) The rear section under the floor looks to be OK, so the fuel pump, gas tank, and the entire rear assembly will be used in another project at one point. The drivers side rear shock is gone though. -Bill

I would check the the spark system in this order if it were me Check power to the coil. If its good, then check the coil to see it if sparkes. If it does, then check the disty for spark. If everything works, then the problem would have to be fuel related. If the coil insnt getting any power to it, then check fuses/fusible links, wiring, etc. till you find why its getting no power. If its geting power but no spark, the bad coil. And obviously if the disty isnt sparking but the coil is, then something in the disty is arry. Hope you get it fixed, tracking down electrical mysteries is a pain in the but sometimes, Im still trying to figure out my '69 Lincoln, the 4 ways stay on all the time, unless I turn on the headlights Ive got it narrowed down to the 4 way switch in the column though, just cant figure out how to replace it yet -Bill

Thanks for the support guys, Im really, really bummed out about this. Obviously I cant stress enough how important it is to have a fire extinguisher in your car, If I had been keeping a small 2lb ABC extinguisher in the spare tire space I couldve saved the car, sans a little melted wiring. Chux, I was running 92 cuz it wouldnt run worth a crap if I didnt. Expensive, but I didnt really drive it all that much, just for longer trips where my loud obnoxious Brat just wouldnt be as comfortable Connie, I really hope this does NOT happen to your coupe, that would just be icing on top of a big crap flavored cake. (speaking of which, after all this me and my dad stopped at Burger king, where those morons proceeded to screw up my order ) Im heading out right now to go pick up the burnt carcass, ill take some pics and get the final damage assesment shortly. -Bill P.S. Ill probably be looking for a new coupe/RX project very soon