The Beast I Drive

Hey Ya'll, I have a little something Im gonna try and sell here, and Ill post in the parts for sale as well, but mostly Im just guaging interest here right now. What I have here is a kit that allows you to mount a power steering pump from any EA82 car on any EA81 (w/o air conditoning though, this moves the alternator to where the A/C compressor would have been) This kit will work if you have a Weber on an EA81 or EA82 manifold, or SPFI, or the stock Hitachi carb even! This is perfect for those of you with SPFI on your lifted Brat, Hatch, or Wagon, or if you have swapped an EA81 into your EA82 off road car. It is all bolt-on, and includes everything you need except the power steering unit components (pump, rack, lines, etc.) Comes with all new bolts as well. I will also send you installation instructions, with helpful pictures! If there is enough interest I have the resources to make a lot of these, and if I can get more people at once I can offer lower prices. As it sits, Im looking to get $60 for a kit, or PM me with trades or something and we can make a deal. I will have to ask for any byuers to please send me your old A/C Delete alternator brackets as a core after you have completed the swap, including the little spacer dealio. Now for the pics The kit (includes everything seen here) This is what it will look like installed (JDM EA81 w/EA82 manifold and Weber 32/36 shown) Here is is on a motor from an 82 GL (no manifold installed in pic) Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think, ask any questions, and PM me if you are interested in one of these, I have 2 built and ready to ship right now. Thanks! -Bill Bill Omlin Subaru Off Road Specialties(BOSOR)

Ive never pulled a trailer with my subes, but I have pulled a large v8 powered forklift with the Beast... My scariest towing incident was towing home a 1988 Eagle Medallion on our car trailor with the 2500 Cumins Dodge... The way the car was parked it was easier to load it on the trailor facing backwards, as it didnt run when I picked it up. Well, being front engine/fwd with a cast iron block, its heavy in the front. That didnt register with me until we were cruisin down the freeway and as i hit 60mph the trailor started swinging the whole truck from side to side, getting more violent as we slowed down until I got it below 40mph. I was scared ************less, but I was able to recover it and I didnt wreck, nor cause any wrecks. Learned my lesson on that one for sure! -Bill

Can't you get around smog by retitling it and registering it as a "custom car" or Collector vehicle? A '69 bug is a collector vehicle, anything 1972 and older... Thats how most folks get away with blown 454 Chevelles and such... -Bill

Ya know, in hindsight, you shoulda gone with red instead green for the accent pieces, seeing as how the whole car was red before, but Im glad you didnt, because thats what Im doing with my RX -Bill

The custom bodywork isnt quite finished, still needs some body filler in there to smooth it all out and make it look like factory, and there are a few other things that are planned as well... Also had some pretty radical ideas for the hatch while Robbie was there too, but that would require an extra hatch to play with... -Bill

What all do you need help with? Im no where near you, so I cant personally lend a hand, but its a pretty strait forward swap. The only problem Ive really heard of is if the Weber has an Electric choke and the car has power steering, the choke body hits the power steering resevoir and has to be converted to manual choke. Other than that, its just a matter of installing the adaptor, re-routing the PCV lines, and capping/removing un neccessary vaccum lines/solenoids/wires. Then tuning it of course. I usually take off the manifold, cut off and dress any bungs or casting marks I dont want/need, and plug any uneeded vacuum ports, the clean it up a little with a flap disk and put it on then, makes it look a lot nicer when you open the hood. -Bill

Actually the turn outs on the side make it not as loud from inside the cabin. Yeah it sets off car alarms everywhere, but thats what I love about it Actually my Brat is louder, cuz of the 3" stacks. I ran with the exact same setup as the Beast but right after the glasspacks the pipes go up into the stacks RESONATION!!!! -Bill

You should try the search feature on this site. then you would know that Delta Cams makes cams for almost any motor on the planet, and are extremely affordable -Bill

Here's my example I used 1 7/8" tubing and Cherry Bombs. I recomend a crossover pipe or X-pipe of some sort to help with the scavenging and even out the pressure between the heads, it will bring back some low end torque as well. -Bill

I'll get some pics today and post them up tonight for ya! -Bill

I just put my front plate up inside my windshield on the drivers side, I have a 12 gauge shotgun shell holding it up against the glass. Never got in trouble for it, as long as it's clearly visible. -Bill

On my 87 GL I had a problem like that, I replaced the starter and it would still do just what you described, turned out that both of the starter cables were corroded throughout the inside. I replaced those with new ones and away we went -Bill

I could use all the access plates in the bed and on the tailgate. I too am interested in the tail lights... Does it have a slanted radio consol? If so I want that... If it has a grey interior I would like the center console section with the shifter boot if its not torn, and the e brake cover, and the 4wd selector lever.... Prolly some more stuff but I cant think of it at the moment -Bill

Right on, now all thats left is the trans mounts? I looked today and it appears the 2wd and 4wd mounts are the same, and that makes sense since they use the same crossmember... -Bill

With the electric choke, the choke butterfly is closed when there is no power to the element. When the element gets power, it begins to open, and when it has warmed up the choke butterfly is fully open. SO, if the electric choke is your problem, then it would be because it is NOT getting power for some reason, but it was probably just old bound up/stuck linkage some where. -Bill

If you want to get fancy with it, in a couple minutes with scrap and a welder you can rig up a pretty sweet axle installer. Mine took about 10 minutes to make out of whatever I had layin around. Basically mine is an 8" piece of 1 7/8" exhaust pipe, about 9" of 3/4" threaded rod, and axle nut, some flat washers and a handle. I spin the nut on the axle, then slip the pipe over the rod, and crank on the nut over the washers on the pipe. -Bill

Im actually quite interested to see this project come to fruition On a side note, why not adapt an H-6 motor to the stock Dodge trans/t case combo? I would love to see a 3.3 or 3.0 with a trifecta of 2bbl carbs on it nothing says hotrod like mulitple carbs and open headers -Bill

Ya'll shouldnt be filing/sanding the races on the axles! they are press-fit and are supposed to be 1-2 thousandths larger diameter than the inside diameter of the bearings. If the axle slid in smoothly it is worn. Still usable, but worn nonetheless. -Bill

thanks! Oh I sent out your parts this morning, look for them in the mail -Bill

I read that there is a bolt back there on the torsion tube that when it wiggles loose your car will make that clunking/popping sound. Aparrently you just have to go back in and tighten it. Ive never done it, but Ive seen the bolts that Im refering to, look where the rear outer control arm attaches to the torsion tube and on the tube there should be 2 bungs with a bolt in one of them. Go to the side that is making the noise and tighten it up and it should go away:banana: -Bill

I think the most important thing to know is that I build lifts for these... Not really but it is an interesting tidbit Just dont overheat it or run it out of oil and it should run forever -Bill

Its a Brat, they never came with a 5 speed. It has a 4 speed -Bill

Still rockin' the Beast, but with about 1/4" of free play on the crank and a gallons per hour oil leak, it doesnt see much wheelin ATM 1987 GL wagon stock 5 speed D/R open rear diff homemade 6" lift came out to 7" in the front and 8" in the rear 31x10.50xR15 Maxxis Bighorn tires (kick rump roast) redrilled Toyota wheels EA81 w/Weber swapped dual exhaust w/Cherry Bombs Custom bumper/roof rack plexiglass rear window first flames I ever painted on a car (did it around midnight at that!) -Bill

Here's a taste of what I have created Thats an EA82 power steering pump mounted on an EA81 with an EA82 manifold and a Weber, so it should also fit the SPFI manifold with no problems. Details to come, but basically I plan to sell this as a swap kit, with the bracket, new hardware, and the proper belt for the swap. Power steering just got a lot easier for anyone swapping a EA81 into a EA82 car or anyone lookin to upgrade to PS in an older EA81 car and cant find a EA81 donor car with PS in the yards. Applause are in order :clap: -Bill

The 390mm is the dumb wheel, the regular 15" is the good one. -Bill