The Beast I Drive

Dude, you already did this, remember??? Remember how well THAT one turned out :lol: -Bill

I guess its hard to explain without pics, but everything on the 1400 head is just, smaller. The ports are the same size, the the pattern around the combustion chamber is smaller because of the smaller bores, and the head itself is about 1/4" smaller all around then the 1600 head. The head bolt holes line up perfectly, and the heads fit the blocks, i did a test fit to be sure, but the coolant passages are not aligning perfectly, they arent completely blocked, but they need to be opened up some to line up. Ill borrow a friends camera this week and show you, its kinda hard to explain without pics Other than that, the EA63 block, pre-80 EA71 and post-80 EA71 are all the same dimensions (except the 1400 has less girth to it due to the small bores), the only difference on the post 80 motor I can see is that it has an EA81 style waterpump with internal coolant crossover, and the pre 80 block is essentially a bigger version of the 1400, same waterpump, same coolant passage, etc. -Bill

That parts availability list sucks but Im sure there are some of those parts available in the aftermarket... I pulled a head off a post-80 block today, and did some other lookin and comparisons, and here is what I have found: Post-80 and pre-80 heads are the same. Nothing is different, they are identical. The Post-80 block had the same flat top pistons in it that I have new in the box, so IDK whats up with that, I didnt look to see if the Pre-80 motor had the flat tops too or not, but the 1400 Also had flat tops :-\ so my compression ratio may not be as high as I thought, but with the small cc of the 1400 heads and the shaving of the block, it will still be high The 1400 bores are considerably smaller diameter than the 1600. Now, this creates a problem. While the heads do physically fit on the 1600 blocks (I test-fit both a pre-80 and post-80), due to the smaller bores of the 1400, the coolant passages are NOT lining up. They are in the same orientation, but the pattern is smaller than the 1600. With a little dremel/machining, i think the passages can be made to line up, but I am concerned with taking off too much metal and creating weak points, which would not hold under the higher compression. Once this obstacle has been solved though, the heads are a bolt on affair. If I had a digital camera, I would take pics, my phone won't cut it for this stuff, Ill take some pics and post all this up when I get a chance. -Bill

If you are sticking with 4 lug hubs, and changing the diff stubs, you dont have to do anything to the axles. As long as you are swapping 23 spline stubs into the tranny, they will go right back in like stock. If you are going 5 lug then its a whole nother story. -Bill

I plan on keeping that one, the motor isnt in it but i do have it, so Its pretty much complete. Its a 76, so it has the Datsun rear axles. Someone lifted it about 4" but I dont like some of the workmanship, so I will need to fix that and get a title for it. Amazingly the 4 speed in it is still tight -Bill

One thing that should help prevent us from losing a connecting rod is have the rotating assembly ballanced, to like 8,000 rpm. That and Jerry said polishing the rods is supposed to make them stronger too... I need something that can handle the high compression though, i dont think stock rods will do it :-\ -Bill

I was talking to Jerry the other night when i picked up a Fat case bellhousing and a full set of flat top EA71 pistons, and it looks like the 85+ EA71s were also HYDRAULIC LIFTERS... which I would assume means they have bigger valves in the heads... BUT, for a hi-po motor, adjusting the valves after evey oil change really isnt that big a deal I have to get out there and check out that post-80 block and make certain that the heads will interchange, Ive been busy last couple of days, so I havent been able to... And if you need a block, let me know if you can make arrangements and I can get one to you, I guess I could do like last year, send it back with Brian at WCSS? Ill have to make sure i have a good one though... Also, something to look into, we need some stronger connecting rods, I have a stock EA71 here that threw a rod, so maybe we need to see if there are some H-beam or other rods out there that might work and are stronger than the stock pieces, if one of these can break in a stock 70-ish HP motor, who knows what can happen with almost double the power... Does anyone know anything about Kryo-treating? I think some info on this would be good, and Im also really thinking about having the pistons either kryo treated or ceramic coated, I figure Ill be pushing close to 11.5:1 compression with shaved heads/block, flat top pistons, and the much smaller cc of the 1400 heads... Im gonna want to reduce heat-fatigue/damage as much as possible... -Bill

I decided to part out the blue wagon, its donating parts to my other blue wagon, the lifted one. Ive made a few changes to the Brat, I got the exhaust hooked up a month or so ago, and it does roll black smoke when I get on it and in the morning when before it warms up I took out the seats though, they just arent comfortable when the stacks are right where your arm should be :-\ and I could use the bed space more. I also took out the 2" lift blocks I made, I believe those helped destroy my first axles, and I decided I didnt want my EMPI axles to see the same fate. I also now have a slanted radio consol waiting to go in it, just needs paint and some speakers, and Im getting the parts gathered to swap in a 5 speed and lift it 6" hopefully before the Evans Creek meet. The shifter is still tighter than new and it shifts beautifully. I did have some electrical issues, but a new starter, ignition switch, ground cable, starter cable, and a distributor fixed that -Bill

Vacuum first, then compressed air and vacuum again -Bill

Pull the vent grills off and stick the shop vac in there, and also unbolt the fan housing and vacuum out down there too, make sure you cycle through the HVAC controls while you do it. I had a bad vibration in the heater fan in my RX, so I took the housing out, and low and behold there were 2 dead mice stck in the viens of the fan! Once i got those out it ran nice and smooth... -Bill

The way you routed the PCV valve will not do anything, the PCV (positive crankcase ventialtion) valve allows the engine to re-burn oil vapors and other harmfull gasses that build up in the engine block. What you have done by routing the line from the airbox straight to the PCV valve is disabled that system completely. Its supposed to be set up with one hose coming off one head and into the air box, and the other hose from the other head going into the PCV valve on the manifold. If you are getting too much oil in the carb, I would run both hoses from the heads to a T fitting and then run that to the PCV valve. Otherwise you really havent accomplished anything with your new setup :-\ -Bill

Thats some good info there, and I will be double checking the early and later style EA71s I have to make sure for certain that the heads will swap. As for the EA81, the only differences in those were the heads, early EA81s have small valves and solid lifters, later EA81s had bigger valves and solid lifters, and the 85+ EA81s had hydraulic lifters and bigger valves. All EA81 heads are interchangeble though, all the blocks have the same dimmensions. What would be kindof interesting would be to see if Fat case EA71 heads would fit an EA81, and if there would be anything to gain from that...

Not so fast hot rod, GD's case makes at least 2, I have a 87 4wd with 3.9 ratios and a 3at... So maybe your FSM is missing a section or something... Or you need thicker glasses :-p Jk Rob, your's not that old... Yet... -Bill

Pic 1 is kinda like what Im going to do, but I will have longer tubes and an x-pipe to eaven the pressure and produce scavenging -Bill

They are the same width, I measured them. Also, 1400 and post-80 1600 are also the same width. They are all the same width, only one different is the EA81, its 1" wider. BUT, JDM DC 1600 is narrower, but I havent determined if thats because of shaved heads or shaved deck just yet... -Bill

You. Me. Kostamojen. Chat room, ASAP http://www.bydemons.com/chat/ -Bill

EA81 and EA71 heads dont interchange, there is more space between the cylinders on the EA81s, I checked all this out yesterday after I pulled the heads off my 1400, i had some pre-'80 EA71 heads laying around, as well as some EA81 heads to compare, and I plan on using a Post-80 block for the 1400 heads to go on (has about 12,000 on the bottem end) and from the measurements i took, everything should swap to it. I believe the EA63 cam will work with the EA71 block, but that matters not, because custom cams will be ground. The valve configuration in the 1400 heads is the same as the 1600 heads, its the exhasut ports and the combustion chamber size that are different -Bill

I myself am thinking of a long-tube header setup, with 2-into-1 from each head, then an x-pipe and full dual exhaust with glasspacks or flowmasters that exit just before the reare wheels. As for pipe size, I guess that partially depends on how much the exhaust ports get opened up, but if they are 1 1/2" stock thats prolly the best size to start with. Like I stated, i have all the parts I can measure and get dimensions, so if you need something let me know. -Bill

Hmm, well the USDM pistons say 50 on them... Ill take some pics, this is the stuff I got from Loyal 2.7 Turbo a little while back. I just wanna know what I have so I can put together a matching set for my new motor project -Bill

Im really glad were all in the same boat here, you guys are talking about building the motor I am preparing to build right now! I have been looking over the motors and the various parts I have, and what I see is that the 1400 heads appear that they WILL INDEED fit the post 1980 EA71, although a modified head gasket may be needed (think 2.5 with 2.2 heads, same deal) The Post-'80 is 1" narrower than the EA81, and is exactly the same width as the 1400 and the pre-80 EA71. The Post-and-Pre-80 EA71 heads do interchange. I also have a EA71 Dual Carb manifold that is going on my motor Turns out the JDM manifold is about 3/16" narrower than the USDM 1400 and 1600 manifolds :-\ so there will be some machining to make it fit I also have a pair of JDM flat top pistons marked 25 on the surface, not sure what this means. I posted some random questions in the historic section, I really think we should all work together and build a set of KILLER EA71/63 Hybrids, Im shootin for 120HP if its at all possible. I have a lot of parts to compare and take measurements, if you guys need something let me know. Oh Kosta, Im uber jealous of that Weber manifold :slobber: -Bill

Yeah check the fluid, if there is something wrong inside the diff it should tell the story. -Bill

Are the rear axles in good shape, no torn boots? the rear DOJs on the Beast are shot, but it only makes noise if Im in 4wd going backwards, and I just get a clicking like a bad CV. Mabye your rear diff bearings inside the unit are bad, I know the ones in my Brat are, I can wiggle the stub shafts like a shifter stick Maybe pull the drain plug (lower one on the back cover, 13mm square head) and see what the rear diff fluid looks like, it very well may have never been changed, a lot of people forget that gear oil breaks down too. -Bill

When you get a new radiator, get one of those all-metal, dual core Turbo ones, I got one for my mom's car and the Beast, I think they were about 150 bucks a piece, but they were worth it. Since you used the SPFI manifold you do have the correct temp sensor for your guage, but you should check with a good infared temp gun or top notch temp guage to be sure its right, it is 20 years old after all -Bill

Hey ya'll, I have a pair of what appear to be JDM flat top EA71 pistons new in the box that I got from Honduras, they are stamped with a 25 on the piston top, and the box says .25 on it. They are factory Subaru parts, Im assuming the numbers mean they are .25 mm oversize? If anyone can confirm or deny this that would be a great help. I also have USDM pistons new in box that have 50 stamped on them. If anyone has another pair of flat tops with 25 stamped on them for EA71, let me know, we can work out a deal. Also, I have a full set of standard size EA71 piston rings, will these work on the pistons if they are .25 mm oversize? Thanks! -Bill

well, you dont have to worry about smaog anyway, your car is a 1973, pre-smog man! I think I did see that Datsun you did, and damn that was some fine work! Well with that, I know you are the right guy to turn this rig into a show stopper! Also, the EJ motors are too wide to fit in the Gen 1 engine bays without notching the framerails, which has been done by a few people who swapped EJ22s into Gen 1 Brats here on the board, so if you search Im sure you will find info on that as well. I really cant wait to see what direction you take this project, its gonna be killer! -Bill