thealleyboy

Justyn: Welcome aboard. The power steering pumps on these cars are very easy to service. They are bolted right up top, slightly to the left. About the only reccomendation I would make on removing it is to use a flare wrench to avoid damaging the lines. Also, be aware that it will be messy so have plenty of rags on hand. A used one should run about $20 or so at the junkyard. good luck, John

Steve: Sorry about the job situation. Make sure you vote accordingly in November. But this may actually be a good time to tackle some of these things, and catch up on the maintenance schedule on your car. In the process, you'll get yourself up to speed on working on these cars. As mentioned above, you can combine 2 or more procedures to get the most out of your labor time. For example, it's easier to justify replacing cam seals, if you are also due for timing belts. Personally, I wouldn't wait until a belt snaps before digging into this job. A rear main leak is probably the only one I would put off. The others are fairly easy. Again, I would clean your engine so you can pinpoint the leak(s). Then, make a complete list of items needing attention. You may find that it makes sense to do some of things pro-actively and efficiently, while you have time on your hands. good luck, John

Agree with Flow. The pump should be the last thing you replace when working on the fuel system. Might have knocked a wire loose while installing your lift. I would check the wiring near the fuel pump area. good luck, John

Hey Steve: Welcome aboard!! I always reccomend cleaning your engine thoroughly anytime you are trying to chase down a leak (not a bad idea in general). Not only will the source of this leak become obvious, you may find some other ones you are not aware of. A of couple cans of Engine Brite and about a dollars worth of quarters at your local self-serve car wash should do the trick. I always remove the side splash sheilds and skid plate and clean those up seperately. I also run the car so it's nice and hot before spraying on the engine degreaser - even though the directions say you shouldn't. If it does turn out to be valve cover gaskets, you can do those with the motor in the car. Might have to unbolt a few things to gain access. If it were my car, I would do both sides. good luck, John

The Loyale is on the fringe of being an "old one", but that's cool that you are into them. It is a great car to learn on, no matter what your skill level... good luck, John

I think they started using true ECU's on the EA82 series (1985-on). However, there may have been some early "computer controls" on the older Subes to manage carb/emissions. These would have consisted of self-contained components, sensors etc. They were not fully integrated, as with the ECU systems. I believe these devices became mandatory around 1978 for all passenger vehicles. John

Ben: You're on the right track. You may have to trace those vaccum lines further back, but it's very likely to be a leak somewhere in the system. Interesting that you hear a "hiss" but haven't yet located the source. good luck, John

I've had O2's go out, and experienced similar drivability problems. It sounds like a reasonable assumption. I have never had any success reviving an old one. If you want to attempt it, carb cleaner would be a safe solvent to try. They carry decent ones, by good manufacturers, at discount parts stores like Autozone and Advance. They'll run around $50. Well worth the $$ IMO, considering your MPG's will double as soon as you install it. good luck, John

Absolutely remove the motor, if at all possible. This is especially true for a "keeper-type" car. With the motor out of the car, you can easily do all the 60/120 service interval work. I have talked to people that have sucessfully removed the cylinder heads in the vehicle. There are access holes along the unibody rail (rubber plugs) which line up with the cylinder bolts. Some people swear by this method. Personally, I don't think it is worth it. It would still be very time consuming to remove all the bolt-ons in order to lift the head out of the car. Then you have to align the new gasket, and re-install the head from a difficult angle. Finally, you have to bolt everything back together within that tight space. I don't know about you, but my hands are too big for this kind of nonsense. The only scenerio where I think this may be worth it is for a beater car where you truly only want to repair one side. There may be some time savings if this is all you want to do. good luck, John

Yep, sure sounds like the pump. You can install a "universal-type" aftermarket pump, as an alternative to a new or used OEM pump. These work great and cost much less than direct replacements. You do have to splice in your old connector, and fabricate a mounting bracket, however. good luck, John

Hey Eric, I would act quickly before those 3 g's are gone... In AZ, you should be able to land something pretty solid to base your next project on. You may have to look at surrounding states, but anything from that region should be a good bet. $3000 is a lot of cash to work with after all. Don't settle for no VW Fox. Those are pieces of sh*t, trust me. The only thing that will mend your broken heart is another Sube. Go for it - now!! good luck, John

You really need to test for juice at the pump before going any further. You don't necessarily need a VOM. An old light bulb/socket combo with two bare wires will give you a yes/no answer. The only fuel pump relay I've heard of is a safety shut-off device, apparently on some models. Shouldn't affect normal startup though. good luck, John

The ghetto detail guys I know always recommend marine products for serious revitalization of vinyl and plastics. I guess stuff that's marketed for the boating crowd is ideal for automotive applications. Whatever you do, you want to soften up the dash so it doesnt begin to crack. Even Armor All can accomplish this. If you want your interior to last, you need to clean and treat it once a year. John

Yeah, AZ's rebuilt parts leave a lot to be desired. But in fairness to Autozone, a lot of the other chains are now selling these low quality components. I still like going to my local rebuilder if I need something I can count on. Better yet, used OEM from the yards. Some (not all) of AZ's new replacement parts are also low quality knockoffs. I would be hesitant to use any new component sold there without a familiar brand name. Another way to tell is country of origin. Most of the professional type parts stores carry goods made in Japan or the US. The more critical the part, the more careful you should be in using well-made components. John

Glad you found a good one. AutoZone does not generally have a good reputation as a pure parts source. These places are run like grocery stores. Many of the people behind the counter are poorly trained, and cannot be relied upon for accurate information. Personally, they are my last choice, and I only go there when all the other stores are closed for the day (we have a 24 hr store in Columbus). However, they are fine for many of the routine maintenance items you mentioned. Then again, so is Walmart and Kmart... I would get to know your local NAPA or Carquest guys. I think you'll be much happier with the service and parts you recieve from them. And don't automatically assume their prices are higher than AutoZone. They are all in competition with one another. Sometimes all you have to is mention the other store and they'll quote you "wholesale" price. good luck, John

Here's another twist... How about rear disks from a 4wd and 2wd? How much of those assemblies are interchageble? Anyone know the specifics on those 2 systems? John

Steve: Parts availablity can be a problem in certain parts of the country. Luckily, you have lots of starving Sube enthusiasts on this Board that can ususally help if you get in a bind. Replacement drums are expensive, so if they cannot be turned, the rear disk swap is the way to go. Oh, another tip for GF relations...Since this worked out so great, you can rig up regular "breakdowns" on her Sube, then impress her with your knowledge and skills by quickly getting her car back on the road!! All kinds of creative "mishaps" you can spring on her... good luck, John

Clip: Your motor will not have adjustable valves, so you can scratch that from your to-do list. Your gas mileage is pretty crappy - especially with MPFI. Since you didn't mention tune-up, I would go there next. Unless you have reason to believe otherwise, I would do a "major" maintenance schedule (all the 120K items). This would cover many of the possible causes for your poor mileage (ignition, fuel, PCV etc). As far as power, your Sube will not give you the kind of performance you are used to in your Jetta. That is definitely not a good comparison. You are talking about an 80's era economy/utility car vs a modern pocket rocket. Apples and oranges. However, what you give up in power, you'll get back in other ways. The things that made it a great car in the 80's still make it a great car today. Just keep on driving your Sube and you'll soon understand... good luck, John

X: Going with turbo is fine. You could technically put it in any 85-94 GL or Loyale body. But to make life easy on yourself, you should try to find a turbo car so that you don't have to worry about wiring, and all the little stuff that you would need for a conversion. And since you want 4wd, may as well find one that is set up for that as well. In my opinion, 1989 was the best all-around year for the EA-82 series. They built quite a few turbo 4wd's in 88 & 89, so those are the years I would reccommend. The early 90's Loyales would be another good choice, since they are newer, and (you would expect), in better condition. However, there were not nearly as many Loyale 4wd/awd turbos built. If all else fails, find the best body you can, and do the conversion. Lifes too short to make compromises. Good Luck, John

Whew, That was a mouth full!! Let me take a stab:

X: I kinda like answer "E". I would hang onto a car like that, as a backup if nothing else. Especially if the car has spent it's whole life in New Mexico. Something like that would be a real prize in many other regions of the country. If you must have 4wd, I would recommend an EA82 era vehicle. The long production run (85-94) assures that you can keep one of these going for a long time, and for not a lot of $$. good luck, John

Clip: You should think of compression readings as they relate to each other, and to the engine as a whole - not as an absolute measurement. I believe the "correct" range is between 90psi and 175 for the EA82. But a good running motor with hi miles may be 70-80. On the other hand, a motor with excessive carbon buildup can have healthy compression readings, and still be on it's last leg. If your motor is under 200k, and you are getting 130's all the way around, I would be feeling pretty confident about it. You can safely shift your attention to other systems of the car that may need attention. good luck, John

Just so happens I was removing the front disks on my 89 T-Wag last nite. Judging by their condition, and the difficulty in removing them, they were probably never touched. Anyway, I ran into the "castle-nut problem". Tried the usual leverage, breaker bar, cursing etc. Don't own a 36m pneumatic socket, and didn't want to risk breaking my expensive chrome one off the air wrench. My "Alley" Solution - Heated up the castlenut real well using a propane torch, then sprayed PB all around it as soon as the flame was removed. I noticed air bubbles as the penetrant worked its way into the threads. After it cooled off, the castle nut came right off with nothing more than a 1/2 ratchet. I agree that a simple propane torch has its' limits, but I have found it very useful for removing fasteners using the method I've described above. good luck, John

Steve: That's pretty impressive that you were able get those broken studs out in the car. I wouldn't have even attempted that myself, to be honest with you. Glad to hear you stuck with it and are making progress. Once you learn the ropes of finding Sube parts in your area, you'll be set when you have these mishaps (and you will). No need to go to the Dealer for stuff like that. Don't mention the boo boo to the GF - just the fix. Wrenching on Subes and(hopefully) getting laid by a grateful girlfriend...what could be better than that??? good luck, John

Yeah, the power accesories in these cars do need maintenance, even though it's not called for on the maintenance schedule. This becomes obvious if you remove parts from old doors, or do power window conversions. Besides lubricating the motor and rails, you should clean and re-moisturize the rubber weatherstripping around the glass frame. Sometimes the binding occurs because the glass is getting hung up on the rubber. If this doesn't help, I would try a different motor. They do slow down, then evetually burn out. This is often caused by the friction (lack of lubrictaion) described above. May as well replace a weak motor when you have good access to it. Unlike other makes, which use "universal-type" window motors, the electric motors in our Subes are made specifically for each door. If you go out looking for a used one, make sure its an exact match. good luck, John