thealleyboy

Yeah, this is what you want for all your inner door hardware including window trax, elect motors, linkages etc. Basically, any mechanical system exposed to wet weather conditions. The WD/PB lubes are good for breaking up dirt, but the WLG is what'll keep things moving smootly over the long haul. One trick I've learned is to use a long nozzle extension tube to get inside the door cavity, so that you can spray the hard-to-get-to surfaces. Even weatherstripping trim will benefit from a shot of lithium grease, and make window glass glide like new. BTW, PB is now available in gallons, and the cost is only slightly higher than WD-40. This has pretty much made WD obsolete as an everyday, oil-can lubricant. John

My hunch is a vacuum leak, but I'll take your word for it if you say vaccum is ok. How about compression? What kind of PSI's do you have at each cylynder? good luck, John

I can't think of any way to get inside that door shell, other than to remove the inside trim panel. However, you should be able to get it off with minimal damage if you are careful. Remove the arm rest and latch trim of course. Then working from the bottom, pry the plastic retainer out of the door shell. You may have to fabricate a tool with the correct angle to get the leverage you need. I like to use paint can lid openers for light prying jobs. You'll probably have to bend and stretch the door panel to clear the door frame area. Heres where you have to be careful not to damage the panel. After you work your way around and pop out all the retainers, you should be able to slide the panel straight up and off the door shell. Then it's just a matter of working the linkages to release the latch. good luck, John

Do you want to install the temp guage cause the one in the dash doesn't work? Or as a supplimentary guage? As a secondary guage, you can tap into a number of spots depending on what exactly you want to monitor. For example, you could tie into the lubrication system to track oil temp. Look for cleanout plugs, or other threaded ports in the system you want to monitor. You may need to fab some step-down or "y" adapters to tie into the system. As far as a "boost guage", I believe these are essentually vaccum guages, so I would look for a spare port on the intake manifold. good luck, John

Hey man, that X looks pretty sharp!! I like the choice in color. Besides being very reasonably priced, the Rustolem line has a lot of colors (some metallics too), and is available in gallons, quarts and spray cans, which is what you want in a DIY paint product. Their automotive primer is one of the best, and makes for an excellent seal coat. Overall, Rusto is probably the best oil-based system for this kind of application. You wanna be careful in taking compound to an enamel finish. Enamels aren't really intended for abrasives, and you'll dull the finish if you go too aggressive. Always let the paint cure in the hot sun for a few months before messing with it. Regular old fashioned wax has some abrasive qualities and is a fairly safe to use on enamels. Anything more than polishing compound will be too harsh. good luck, John

I'll mention also that the best looking paint jobs are the ones with the least masking. That means removing as much trim and hardware as possible. In my latest project, I'm also removing most of the bolt-on panels, as well. Overkill? Maybe. But when you get the hang of how these cars are put together, it's not that big a jump to prep and paint the uni and bolt-ons individually. Those extra steps make all the difference in the world when it comes to "budget painting". Spraying a whole care without a paint booth takes skill and a steady hand. Nothing worse than screwing up in the middle of a paint job - for whatever reason. Laying out the panels on a flat surface takes advantage of the laws of gravity, and cuts a big paint job down to size. The end result (if done right) is paint job that looks like the car was dunked into a vat of paint. Fewer uneven passes visible in the bright sunlight. No overspray or greasy missed spots when you open the doors, hatch or hood. Again, I'll document my "$100 farmer paint job", and we'll see what everyone thinks of the final results. John

Would that be Kenosha? Had a friend from college from there, and we'd talk for hours about the cool stuff that came out of that factory. A lot of WWII equipment made there too. Generations of families paid the bills by clocking in and out of that plant. In this day and age, it's a miracle it's still in operation. Suprised there be any Subarus at all in a town like that. I'm sure you still get some "looks" from the old timers. John

I can't speak for others, but I've always approached these projects the same way - whether the car was a classic or a beater. Personal standards, I guess... As far as painting, the secret is in the prep, as stated above. The paint is important too, but then you get into "diminishing returns" when you move up the ladder. $100 worth of farm paint (or $50 worth of Rustoleum) will not look as good as $500 worth of PPG product. That being said, the $500 paint job will not look 5x better than the farm job, all else being equal. And $500 worth of high quality paint will always look like sh*t on a poorly prepped car... John

I dunno about a $50 paint job, but... I've discovered a new farm and tractor paint line that I'll be trying out on my newest project. Check it out: http://www.valsparrestoration.com/val/resident/agricultural/restoration/ I've always been a fan of farmer paint because it's tough, relatively inexpensive, and comes pre-mixed in gallons, quarts and spray cans, hardeners, etc. This new one is the best I've ever tried. The finish is extremely smooth and glossy - more like automotive paint. Even with minimum prep, it covered beutifully on the areas I tested. There are some downsides to this line though. The gallons and quarts can only be sprayed, so you cannot hand brush the floor pans and underbody. Also, it's a little more expensive than standard farmer paint. The colors are limited, and there are no metallics available in this line. However, if you can live with these limitations, you should be able to pull off a pretty respectable paint job for $100 or less. I'll post a write-up and pix when I get mine done. John

There are several ways to get to the latch. A pair of long needle-nose pliers may be all you need to pull on the cable. A long screwdriver thru the grill can also be used to push on the spring loaded part of the latch. The screws actually thread into square-shaped plastic retainers, that snap into the stampings on the header panel. If you cant get to the screws with an off-set phillips screwdriver, you can probably pop the plastic retainers off the header panel (screw and all) with a long flat head screwdriver. Then you'll be able to get your hand in there. Just be careful not to crack the grill trying to remove it. good luck, John

I used to be heavily into Datsuns, and the situation with the EA82's was similar, IMO. There was a "window" when parts and saveable cars were plentiful and cheap, but this dynamic never lasts long. As mentioned time and time again, corrosion can get real bad real quick in certain areas of the country, and this was the "achilles heel" of this era of Japanese cars. The supply and demand of solid unibodies drives the whole market. If there aren't enough good bodies, there is less demand for mechanical parts, so you get a downward spiral where everything is junked quickly (making it even harder to keep one on the road). Of course, there are always derelicts around that grab up enough cars and parts to keep their fleets going 20 years or more. This isn't a bad way to go if you want to stick to a certain platform for the long haul. At least, that's my excuse... good luck, John

I would temporarily disable the HC, until your questions have all been answered satisfactorally. Just bypass the core so that the flow goes from the engine outlet to the return inlet. With the heater core no longer in the picture, you can assess the "overheating" issue on it's own merits. I would try to nail this down before the new rad if at all possible. Sure it's never a bad idea to replace an old, but there could be multiple issues here. You could end up burning up your motor anyway, and the radiator will end up being a waste of $$. good luck, John

If your arm is long enough, you can reach up thru the bottom and release the latch directly, or by pulling on the cable (if it is still attached to the latch). Otherwise, you'll have to remove the grill for access. When it comes time to repair the cable, you may find that routing the new one is a little more involved than you realized. You can rig up a short cable attached to the latch that can be accessed by reaching up behind the grill. This also some security since a potential thief (or child) would not know how to release the latch. good luck, John

Yeah, I like the idea of boiling out that tank. They are relatively easy to drop, and radiator shops do not charge much to clean em out. Nothing more frustrating than constantly changing fuel filters, and even rebuilding a carb, only to keep getting plugged up due to contaminated fuel. You may want to consider reconfiguring your fuel pump/filtering system, fuel lines if you are going to all this effort. Not sure if there is a better location on the Brats, but you can at least set it up to service easily with low-cost aftermarket pumps and filters. good luck, John

Hard to say from just one pic... I've found that Subes don't rust uniformly, so looks can be very decieving. The only way to really know is to remove the carpeting and interior trim covering the lower portions of the underbody. With good access to backside of the panels, you can make an educated decision. A good rule of thumb is to check the area where the rear seat belts bolt onto the uni. If you don't feel confident that the metal around the belt anchor is strong enough to hold up during a collision, then you have your answer. Assuming the rust in the pic is representative of the corrosion throughout the car, you've got a year or two {tops} before it's too dangerous to drive. Rust treatment and patching may extend it's life a little, but I wouldn't go overboard. Structural integrity doesn't come out of a Bondo can. Yes, you can weld any basket case back together, but unless you have the equip and knowledge, this may not be realistic. If on the other hand, the rust is mostly sperficial, and the floorpan rust in the pic is the worst of it, it may worth be worth neutralizing the rust, and maybe some minor body work. I'm working on one now (write-up and pics coming soon) that definitely did not pass the look test, but turned out to be a reasonably solid car. PM me if you want see some "before" shots, and the decision process I went thru in deciding whether to save it or not. good luck, John

1) The suggestion about cleaning your engine bay is a good one, and will help you identify any active leaks. I would also recommend removing the timing belt covers so you can monitor the seals and oil pump for leaks (among other things). However, you shouldn't assume that leaking gaskets are the sole cause of oil assumption. It could be burning some too, or maybe a combination of leaks and burning. Again, a clean engine is always the best starting point when tracking down oil consumption problems. 2) It's true that r12 is "colder" as a refridgerant. If you can find some cheap cans at a garage sale, I'd say go for it. But r12 is getting scarce, and paying the going price for an r12 recharge at a professional shop is not worth it. The truth is, a properly evacuated Subaru A/C system runs plenty cold with r134, so you won't miss r12 at all. If you are dead set on r12, there was a refridgerent that was a fully compatible "substitute" for r12. Not sure if it's still avalable though... 3) There are no "perfect" books, and that includes FSM's. What I would do is buy a Haynes book and a large loose-leaf binder. You can seperate the pages of the Haynes and lay out your binder to follow the same chapter format. Then you can add notes from other sources to round out the basic info from the Haynes. 4) getting over the HP hump isn't easy on these cars. No silver bullit unfortunately. I would first focus on getting the OEM setup running as best you can, and gradually upgrade in conjunction with your maitenance 5) Loyales between 1990-94 are esentially the same. The only major differences I've seen are in the dealer add-on items (which "upgraded" the basic car) 6) Sorry, not familiar with this system 7) Aftermarket sound isn't too hard, but be prepared to run dedicated ground wires from the dash to rear speaks. Fabricating a custom plug-in connector to tie into the wiring harness is not worth it IMO. Just hack into the wires at the OEM connector. The dash adapter plate is the most critical piece. good luck, John

Here is a link to my all-time electronics book (still available thru Amazon) http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Projects-Musicians-Craig-Anderton/dp/0825695023 It's not automotive-specific, but covers basic circuits very well. If you play guitar, the project designs will be a bonus. You can apply the practical knowledge (and theory) in this book to a variety of automotive applications. Well worth the $8.00 price for a used copy. Good luck, John

Dae: I'ts always fun to play around with these kind of circuits. But I would recommend you fab it up on the bench first. As mentioned above, you run the risk of damaging wiring & components due to excessive heat. If you don't have a stash of extra parts, I would go to the JY and gather together everything you need to build a prototype. I'm talking the column switch assembly, relays, connectors, bulb sockets etc. Don't forget an inline fuse of the correct value. Then run your design off a power supply to see how it holds up over various conditions. When you get your prototype perfected, transfer the design over to your car. This may sound like overkill, but it sure beats trying to track down intermittant problems in your car, as a result of overloading the circuit. good luck, John

Lots of good suggestions above... A couple of things not mentioned, maybe worth considering: Leak down testing - Compression testing alone can be deceptive. If the compression reads normal, but you still suspect a HG failure, I would do a leak down for peace of mind T-fittings/backflushing - If you are going to go to the trouble of overhauling your cooling system, you may as well add T-s at both the inlet and outlet of the heater core. I have found that {at least} annual forward & backward flushes do more for keeping your cooling system healthy than any other system procedure. If you don't do this faithfully, you can be sure that all the $$ you spend on a brand new rad, water pump, heater core etc will be a waste. good luck, John

If you are looking to keep this car long-term, 120K is a good point to get all your maintenace schedule items caught up. The $$ you spend up-front now, will pay off in better long term reliability. All the major systems are fair game at this point. Besides timing belts and cooling system, you might want to look at brakes/axles/bearings. If these components are mostly original, a brake system overhaul now might make sense. I'm talking bearings, seals and axle boots too. The ignition and fuel system might be in need of some attention if it hasn't been serviced in a while. Dont skimp on wires or plugs. Get OEMS (NGK's) if you can afford it. A thorough fuel system cleaning is something that people rarely do, but makes a huge difference in SPFI preformance. Also, pull trouble codes, and deal with any system that is malfunctioning. Leaks would be normal at 120k. Fix anything you can get to easily. If you have several engine related issues, ant the clutch is getting old, it may be worthwhile to pull the motor and do all of this work at once. Let me add that you should always try to track down any service records you can get your hands on whenever you buy a vehicle. Even phone conversations with prior owners can be valauble in knowing where you are maintenance -wise. Without any history on the car, you can assume everything will need a good look. good luck, John

Hey Nug: For maximum life, it's always best to use high quality US or Japenese made bearings. However, if you have a strict "service schedule" mentality, you can go with the cheaper ones, cause you'll be changing them out before they crap out on you. This would be a car you want to keep long-term, and maintain meticoulosly. Not too many people do this. In either case, you'll have enough of a warning to prevent a catestrophic failure. The noise is a dead giveaway. One word of advice: be very careful about using axles interchangebly. Yeah, they work, but they are not all the same legnth. If your bearings are wearing out prematurely, it might be because the incorrect axle is putting extra strain on the bearing. good luck, John

Ironic that you mentioned that...my brother was prepping his first EA82 yesterday, and snapped off two of the oil pump bolts. He couldn't understand why. He torqued them to specs, and that wasn't supposed to happen. Replacing/upgrading the oil pump bolts with new ones is something to consider. Some people will change even stronger ones like cylinder head bolts without a second thought. I'll admit, I don't always replace them myself, but I've learned that bolts become weaker with each sucessive use. There is always a small risk re-using bolts, and as mentioned above, you should definitley take it easy on the torque. And yes, Fox's write-up on timing belts is the best one I've seen on this topic. good luck, John

yeah, we know...west coast rules, everyone else drools...

Good deal. Those aftermarket treatments are "hit-or-miss", but it sounds like it was effective in slowing down the corrosion a bit. I would try to keep it out of the salt until you neutralize the rust that is present. If you just enjoy your car, don't worry about market value or what car snobs think of it. I have a 67 Mustang that I am trying to "restore". This car is original down to the licence plate frame, and dealership key chain. But this has been both a blessing, and a curse. Let me tell you, Mustang guys are some of the most serious fanatics you'll ever meet!! On a true resto, every nut and bolt has to be original - else the car is "ruined". You end up scrutinizing every last detail. As a result, the Stang has sat for long periods of time, and I haven't enjoyed it a whole lot. The point I'm trying to make is that you can take a "restoration" project to extremes, if you aren't careful. If you like driving your car, let that guide your decisions. Else you might end up with something you can only drive in July 4th parades. good luck, John

Yeah BM, I would say that one ain't lookin too healthy...a good example cause the outer body rust is not representative of the "big picture". That uni is pretty well hosed. Can't think of any scenerio that would justify a "restoration". That being said, you could patch together a rolling chassis that would get you a few kicks before the uni folds like an accordian. It's just a matter of knowing what you got, and not going overboard on a lost cause. Hopefully, VA's Brat has little more upside... John