Mikevan10

Thanks for sticking with me on this GD. I do not question your advice on this and you are probably 100% correct. And I am sorry if I'm coming across as one of those guys that asks for help and then argues with everyone who tries to give it! BUT..... here's my standpoint on all of this: 1. I'm not good at searching the internet for used stuff and really don't want to spend the time doing so and if I were lucky enough to find what I want at a reasonable price, how soon would I receive it? Rock Auto usually gets stuff to me pretty quickly. 2. As I mentioned, my original cat is now totally useless because the boss (aka bung) that the rear oxygen sensor screws into tore away from the cat housing when I tried to unscrew the sensor. I understand that the cat itself never was the cause of the P0136 code, but the cat definitely needs to be replaced now... 3. I did order a new rear O2 sensor so that will go in too. 4. If I now get a P0420 due to the new (cheap aftermarket) converter, I understand the "extender" trick is pretty reliable for eliminating that fault code? Thanks again! Mike V

Well, I know this is not considered good practice, but I went ahead and ordered an El Cheapo (I think that was the brand) converter for $150.00. Hope to receive it today or tomorrow so I can put tis car back on the road. Thanks for the offer Imdew but it's too late. Like I said, the car is already close to a basket case due to body rust and has other impending issues so I doubt the cat will rust out before I scrap the car. Tentatively planned for next spring. We will see. Thanks again. Mike V.

Just wondering, now, what code, if any, gets set if your catalytic converter is not doing its job. Seems like P0136 would get set if there is a wiring issue between the rear O2 sensor and the ECU and, maybe, if there is an issue with the rear O2 sensor itself. But nowhere have I read or heard that P0136 has anything to do with the nature of the exhaust gas leaving the cat. Is this correct?

Thank you for the comments. For the record: 1. The "problem" I am trying to resolve is code P0136 being set (not P0420). 2. The car has 285,000 miles on it and is a rust bucket. I am trying to get at least another year out of it. Basically just for local travel. So I just need a cat that will satisfy these two requirements. And I am not even sure how much the catalytic converter itself has to do with P0136.

Wouldn't a cat made by Inferno Fab be "aftermarket"?

Well, the boss/bung that the rear sensor screws into broke away from the cat housing when I tried to remove the sensor so I guess I have no choice but to replace the catalytic converter.

Thanks for the comments folks. Now, what are the concerns with aftermarket cats? Poor fit? Poor performance as far as dangerous exhaust gas treatment leading to increased air pollution? Poor performance leading to MIL illumination and trouble codes being set? Both of the oxygen sensors are in the front cat. There is a small bulge in the exhaust pipe section upstream of the flex joint which I guess could be a second cat. No sensors there. No comments on the "Engine Family", etc.? Thanks again.

My 1997 Legacy Brighton is apparently CA emissions compliant (Subaru dealer told me that based on the VIN). The rear flange on the front cat is shot so I have an exhaust leak there. I am looking at the cats on Rock Auto and it is not clear which one I should buy. The cats on the Rock website that are claimed to be C.A.R.B. compliant refers to "Engine Family VFJ2.2VJG2EK" for some of the cats. But my engine is Engine Type EJ22ESWCWL. Can anyone help unravel this? Thanks Mike V.

I have a leak at the flange AFTER the cat. That would not cause a P0136 would it? I don't see how the system would "know" there is an issue downstream of the rear O2 sensor.

P0136 = O2S circuit malfunction 1997 Legacy GT, 2.2 l, manual trans. What is the cure for this? The 3 pin connector seems to have good connectivity? Thanks! Mike V

I had similar issues with my 1992 legacy. Heater blower intermittently not working. Turned out to be a dodgy plug connector to the fuse box. In my case, when the blower wasn't working, neither were my brake lights. I swapped out the plug from a parts car and all has been fine ever since. Was a few years ago. Mike V.

Thanks for the input fellas. GG - Of course you are correct - If I repair all faults I should e good to go. But at least the P0440 aint that easy! From what I understand, it could be anything from the fuel fill pipe to the charcoal canister to one of the solenoid valves to, and most likely, a small leak somewhere in the network of hoses and tubes that snake there way back and forth between the engine bay and the fuel tank! Its cold in PA now (23 F at the moment) and I work in the driveway so I'd really like to delay that kind of witch hunt at least until Spring. The P0136 I guess could be a wiring issue, an exhaust leak or the sensor itself. I plan to go after that one and if I can fix that, then my above scenario (assuming I understand OBDII correctly) applies and it becomes a battle whether I cn get the light extinguished, get the monitors ready and get it inspected before the P0440 code rears its head again. I replaced the fuel filler pipe last summer. It did have a pin hole or two but apparently did not solve the issue.

Thanks guys. I wish I could get away with telling the inspection guy that my 1997 is exempt from the readiness monitors! That is exactly what I am dealing with right now. Here's the scenario: MIL illuminates. P0440 and (sometimes) P0136. Clear codes. MIL off. Drive car. MIL comes back on anywhere from 10 miles to 50 miles (with shut downs in between). Clear codes. MIL off. Take car to inspection (MIL still off). Fail inspection since have more than two monitors incomplete (i.e. not ready). Drive car hoping to get the monitors ready but before they do the MIL comes back on! Repeat the above....

Please advise. Thanks, Mike V.

Ah, ok. You went for the 2500. Gotcha.

OK, now I see your info that shows the car to have 202,000 miles, The reason I asked is because my '97 with 285,00 miles may be developing head gasket issues which is not common on this particular engine type.

Sorry, no specific suggestions on the clutch issue. But you only said that the salve cylinder push rod was "not making with the fork". Do you mean it was not aligned properly? Also, how would the slave cylinder be damaged by this mishap. I would think you could reassemble it and bleed the system. To be honest, what I am more curious about is your head gasket issue. How many miles on the engine and what were your symptoms, if you don't mind? Mike V.

No news here since I have not been driving the car. I did re-install the fans and the overflow tank. "Radiator pressure device", huh? Is that a cheap item to purchase?

Thanks guys for chiming in. OK. I have been running around without the electric fans installed which means that I am also running around without the expansion/overflow tank installed so I do not know for sure if the coolant has been exiting via the radiator cap and out the hose onto the ground. If so, I would have expected to see coolant sprayed around, but who knows? So I will reinstall the fans and the tank and then start monitoring the level in the expansion tank as well as in the radiator itself. I still do not know how I would check the "air" level. Sorry if I am dense. You guys are advising me that head gasket issues and the associated temperature issues can be random and inconsistent so that means I cannot trust this car which means I can't rely on it for my wife. I might see if she'll swap cars with me for a while which she will not be real happy about.... Mike V. 1992 Legacy sedan(mine) 1997 Legacy Brighton Wagon (wife's) 2008 Legacy GT (kid's)

Upon arrival home from work last night I looked but was not able to see any external leakage. This was disappointing as I was hoping to see more coolant sitting on the frame member (I guess it actually would be termed the radiator support) that runs beneath the radiator. But it was bone dry. So I removed the radiator cap and was able to add 22 ounces of coolant. And I last topped it off about 60 miles ago. So there definitely is an issue and I would think that I would see coolant dripping onto the ground or pooling up somewhere on the engine (even though it is filthy) if the leak is external. Next I removed the spark plugs. While all four do not have identical appearance, none of them jumps out as looking different (i.e. cleaner) than the other three. So I am pretty much in a state of indecision at this point. I am not 100% sure it is a head gasket issue and I would hate to do anything rash without knowing that was the case. On the other hand, the body rust is getting advanced, it is beat up and, as I said, the car does have 285,000 miles on it. So if I weren't poor it would be an obvious time to replace the vehicle

Thanks for the comments fellows. It does make sense that if there is a weak, but not totally shot, area in one of the head gaskets that it may be able to seal under light engine loads but at higher loads the combustion pressure is greater and the weak point may not seal under those conditions. When you say "air" I assume you mean combustion gasses.

Wow, jiggle pin, huh?!? Never heard of that one before. I will have to squeeze and listen (you guys wouldn't be putting me on now would you?). Just to keep everyone up to date.... Upon arrival home from work last evening (temperature normal) I popped the bonnet (er, opened the hood) and did see a drop or two of coolant on the frame section that runs just beneath the radiator (remember, I have the electric fans removed so I have good visibility to check for any leaks). Was only a drop or two but it was dry the day before and it had to come from somewhere. So at this point I am not ruling out that the whole problem is a small/slow leak out of the radiator somewhere. If the problem is a leaky/failing head gasket, is it possible that the engine would only overheat sometimes?

Thanks for the comments GG and I am truly sorry if my comments came off as argumentative. That was far from my intention. I was only curious and wanted to dig a bit deeper into the whys and why nots and you took the time to provide some details. I do appreciate your opinions on this stuff so thanks again! Mike V. 1992 Legacy (mine) 1997 Legacy (wife's) 2008 Legacy GT (kid's)

Thanks for the suggestions so far! Before I go any farther I need to know , What is a "Giggle pin"?

I have been resisting starting this thread but I figure I may as well bite the bullet... Car is my wife's 1997 Legacy. Non turbo EJ22. 285,000 miles on the clock. Never had any overheating issues in the 200,000 miles that we have owned it. Then, out of nowhere, the temp gauge spiked on a short drive about a week ago. My son was driving at the time and it was late at night. So the next day I popped the bonnet, removed the radiator pressure cap and checked for coolant. Unfortunately I did not measure exactly how much, but I was able to add somewhere between a pint and a quart of coolant. I then ran the car it did not overheat. I removed the electric fans so that I could get a better look at the radiator and ran it some more. No overheating and no visible leaks. With the fans removed, the temperature gauge does eventually creep up beyond the normal 1/2 way point but if you then drive the car it quickly comes back down to where it always has run and stays there. A couple of days and a few miles later I again opened the radiator cap and was able to add 4 or 5 ounces of coolant. Drove it to work this morning without issue. I will leave the description there and hope the collective will pose some questions and/or make some suggestions. Thank you! Mike V.