Mikevan10

When I loosen the gas cap afeter the car has not been driven/started in a couple of days, I do get a "whoosh" as the seal is broken. Doesn't this rule out a faulty gas cap or for that matter a breach anywhere that is supposed to hold a vacuum?

Just to close the loop on this, I swapped the intake manifolds, and all of the connectors plugged right into all of the sensors and solenoids, so at this point I am quite hopeful that my wiring issues are resolved. What made the job lengthy was that I had started by trying to remove the wiring harness from the old engine before I realized (with help from Tax, above) that the engine harness is pretty much completely part of the intake manifold assembly. So it was trial and error getting all the wires, hoses, etc. back in the correct places and relationships (i.e. this goes under that and that goes around this and.....). But its looking good now. A few more connections, reinstall the intercooler and radiator, install the new exhaust system and I'll be filling up the fluids!

Just a thought: Wouldn't an issue with the wiring to the Vent Control Solenoid throw a PO446 code (possibly in addition to the existing PO440)?

Thanks again 77. So this is the solenoid valve near the charcoal canister by the right rear wheel. OK, I will check it out. The reason I asked about the location is that a few years ago I wasted a bunch of time chasing a issue with the evap. control system because of a discrepancy in terminology... Thanks again, Mike V

This is my wife's car so I am not usually the one filing the tank, so I'll plead ignorance on the whoosh. At the risk of sounding lazy.... would you please give me an idea of the location of the "vent solenoid" you are referring to 77? Thank you!

To answer Tex's question, the filler tube apparently was indeed rusted through although we are talking pinholes since really the only evidence was that the outside of the tube down by the bend was "wet" with gasoline. I will not get a cap at the junk yard but it sounds like I should be ok with whatever they will sell me at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts, say.

I have put it off almost a year but I will have to fix whatever is causing my 1997 Legacy 2.2 SOHC to set a PO440 trouble code in order to pass state vehicle inspection.. I replaced the fuel filler gooseneck last year and that did not do it. I guess the next thing to shotgun in is the fuel filler cap? Is a Brand X aftermarket cap from Autozone, for example, fine or an I better advised to get a certain brand from, say, Rock Auto or is this something I should get from a dealer? Any other advice for solving this issue would be much appreciated! Thanks, Mike V.

OK. The manifold is off the "new" engine which was installed in the engine bay. Made good use of what I learned while removing it from the old engine. And now I know what "Tumble Generator Valves" are! Who knew??? Thanks for the advice. Mike V.

Manifold is off! The problem was that I was trying to remove just the plastic section. I did not realize that the cast aluminum sections with the butterflies in them were supposed to come off with the rest of it. So now I have the manifold off of the old engine which was out of the car. The question is can I remove the manifold from the new engine which is installed in the engine bay!

I followed the instructions in the FSM for removing subject manifold but they seem to have left something out. The metal fuel pipe on the left (driver's side) cross over the top of the bridge piece of the manifold between the two left side inlet ports. So clearly those pipes need to be removed. But they are buried under a pretty substantial metal bracket that runs along that side of the engine. So it is not clear how to remove the pipes. Looks like another fair bit of work. Am I missing something here? This is a 2008 Legacy GT DOHC turbo.

Thanks very much Tax! I had already started removing the intake system from the "old" engine. Your comments give me the push (and hope) I need to press ahead. Thanks again.

Bell housing? I don't have te transmission. Only the engine. My dilemma is that I was planning to swap this unknown year enginer in for the blown engine that was in a 2008 Legacy GT. The engines appear identical (including all the stuff you mentioned) but the engine wiring hanesses show some differences. I am thinking that I will have to swap the engine harnesses but that is MUCH easier said than done and I am afraid that at some point I will discover that this is not a viable plan... Getting a bit frustrated...

I need to identify the model year of a Legacy GT engine. How would I do so?

It is all well and good to obtain the adapter plugs as suggested above. These adapters will certainly plug right into the plugs in the car. However, you still need to know which wire goes where (in the chassis) so you can match them up with the wires coming out of the new radio! I did a google search for the radio wiring diagram for my 1992 Legacy and found several conflicting charts and diagrams. Seems like you need a correct diagram or, at best, your new radio won't work or, worse, you will damage it. Am I missing something? If not, can someone direct me to a reliable wiring diagram for this? Thanks! Mike V.

I have searched the forum and I did find some threads that touched on this topic but I still have questions.... I am planning to replace the original/stock radio/cassette player on my 1992 Legacy sedan. The original unit's faceplate measures about 72 mm in height. I am planning to install what I believe is called a single DIN receiver which I am pretty sure is closer to 50 mm in height. The guy at Crutchfield said the new unit will mount just fine using the existing, stock radio brackets. Does this sound correct? And, if so, won't I be left with an unsightly gap below the new receiver? My other question is regarding the speaker wiring. Would the 1992 Legacy have the setup where front and rear speakers on each side share a common ground? If so, is this something I will need to correct (i.e.rewire so that each of the four speakers has a dedicated ground)? Thanks as always, Mike V.

Aren't the guts (i.e. balls and races) of the inner CV joint (or DOJ or whatever the correct term is) held in by a circlip? I don't see any reason to tug on the axle shaft at all when replacing a ball joint, let alone enough to pull the CV joint apart without first removing the circlip. Am I missing something here or did 808 have a preexisting problem with his inner CV?

Yeah, we pulled the engine and transmission out as a unit out of a 2008 Legacy GT and installed a new (used) engine with the old trans as a unit last Friday. I have always just dropped the trans when I needed to replace the clutch or replace the transmission before. You do have to get the engine/trans unit at a super steep angle to get them in and out. Having done it both ways now I probably would just drop the trans and leave the engine in place for future clutch and/or transmission work. It is SO much fun mating them back up that way!

What can we learn from this? Coincidence that the CV joint failed right after the ball joints were replaced?

Not sure I understand what danger you were worrying about with pulling the automatic transmission from under the car, but you definitely deserve a tip of the hat, sir, for removing the engine in 15 minutes! Are you saying that 15 minutes from the time you popped open the hood you had everything disconnected and the engine was safely removed from the vehicle?

I had one fail on my 1997 Legacy 2.2. And the first one I got from the salvage yard was also no good. Second one was the charm and has been working fine for at least 5 years. And they were not expensive.

How did you know the cooler was "clogged". Is this a common problem?

This thread is too timely for me not to add a post even though I don't have anything new to add.... Over the weekend (swapping out my kid's Legacy GT turbo motor) I grabbed a 12 point 14 mm socket and rounded the corners off of the right side motor mount nut. The 6 pointer then also slipped. I do not have (and did not know about) one of these clever bolt extractor kits discussed above but will seriously consider adding one to the tool collection. But I did happen to have just picked up a $17.00 Harbor Freight die grinder! So I stuck a carbide burr in it and went to town on the motor mount nut. This worked a treat for about 5 minutes at which point the brand new pneumatic die grinder gave up the ghost! I guess I got what I paid for.... The nut was about toast by this point and a cold chisel finished the job. But that is how I would probably proceed if I were Grossgary. Grind the nut off. Mike V.

Just thought I'd pass on how we got these fittings off. My kid picked up this tip: Cut a tie wrap (aka zip tie) in half (so you have square ends to work with). There are two tabs inside of the yellow plastic sleeve in the fittings located 180 degrees apart from one another. Examine carefully and locate these two tabs. Then insert the square ends of the tie wrap so that you push the tabs away from the metal pipe. Pull fitting off of pipe. Pretty simple.

Thanks, as always. Tax, The motor is out and the new turbo fitted. Still have not figured out the QD fuel fittings but just separated the line at the regular hose fittings which are just upstream/downstream of the fancy fittings.

I guess there is a special Subaru tool for separating the fuel line fittings on the top left hand side of the engine? These are the fittings with the yellow plastic sleeves inside. I did a search and did not learn much. There has to be trick? Or is there a tool I can borrow from Auto Zone or something. Need to get this engine out tonight! Please help. Thanks!